Nambu Type 14

I realize that much has been written about the Nambu, with many resource books and media currently available to the consumer and gunsmith. This particular pistol on my bench came to me for a detailed inspection, cleaning, and check to be certain that it was in firing condition. A deep cleaning was definitely in order as the internals of the gun were packed in heavy grease. Not Cosmoline; grease.

The good news for my customer was that this pistol was in great shape, had a very shiny bore, no broken parts, and all serial numbers matched. I suspect the grease helped to preserve the internals and my customer was very delighted to hear he had an all numbers matching, shootingcondition Nambu. Historical Information Even before our own military adopted the praised 1911 semi-automatic pistol, the Japanese Nambu 8x22mm or "8mm Jap Nambu" was in full service with Japanese officers carrying it.

And although it is often confused with the German Luger pistols by some, it was not copied from it and therefore has no similarities other than being a semiautomatic pistol. The first model produced is recognized by its offset recoil spring and front operating grip safety. This was later revised and became the Type 14 pistol. The early models had no magazine safety and sported a small, circular trigger guard. The very next version added the larger trigger guard and the magazine safety.

The magazine safety ensures that the pistol will not fire when the magazine is removed—a simple test you can take if you cannot tell if the trigger guard is large or small when one enters your shop, especially if you are not familiar with these pistols. You will also find that many of the parts for both types are not interchangeable. However, the following disassembly instructions can be used as a guide when disassembling the Type A pistols.

Here is a description of the Type 14 Japanese Nambu pistol based on research that I undertook. It was made in Japan between 1906 and 1945 having been designed in 1902. It is a semi-automatic pistol that holds eight cartridges in its boxed magazine, has a barrel length of 4.61 inches, and a weight unloaded coming in at 1.98 pounds. The overall length is listed at 9.06 inches and has a fixed rear sight and dovetailed front sight. Reportedly, there were three variants made: Type A, Type B, and the Type 14.

Approximately 400,000 Type 14s were eventually produced. These pistols were reported to have been used from World War I up through the Vietnam War era. The Type A and Bmodels are considered to be the more collectible pistols, due to much lower numbers being manufactured, with the scaled down Type B "Baby Nambu" being the most sought after. It should be noted that Type B Nambus only had a seven round magazine and was nothing more than a scaled down version of the Type A.

The Type Bpistols were also a different caliber, utilizing the 7x20mm Nambu cartridge. Rather than go into more historical depth, my goal in writing this article was to assemble information pertaining to the Japanese Nambu pistols that I found in multiple locations that is most beneficial to the

Removal of the cocking piece from the rear of the threaded bolt exposes the firing pin extension, firing pin spring, and firing pin—all of which can now be removed. The magazine catch serves to retain the trigger guard to the frame. Note that the safety is OFF or in the fire position, necessary for removal of the barrel and extension and bolt assembly. gunsmith or gun owner and put it all into this article.

In other words, rather than seek out and read multiple different books, media, and articles related to this pistol, I decided to condense the most pertinent information into one short write up. There is much more information out there related to these guns and I encourage readers to seek that out. I only wanted to put the most relevant information related to disassembly, reassembly and troubleshooting, along with a short history, all in one place.

There are some manuals available with detailed disassembly information and drawings, such as The Official NRA Guide to Firearms Assembly: Pistols and Revolvers (New Revised & Expanded Edition) dated 2007, The NRA Guidebook to Handguns, Firearms Assembly II, The NRA Guide to Firearms Assembly—Rifles, Pistols, Shotguns, Revolvers, and NRA Illustrated Firearms Assembly Handbook, to name a few. These are handy resources if you have them and when this pistol crosses your bench. A short note about serial numbers.

On this pistol, I found that the serial numbers all matched. They were found on the frame (entire number), the barrel and extension (last three digits), the trigger group (last three digits), the bolt (last three digits), the grip panels (entire number), the locking block (last three digits), and the firing pin (last three digits). So when inspecting, this information can help you to determine if any parts were changed out along the way or if the pistol was "built" rather than manufactured.

Also, if you have a Type 14 you can determine when it was produced by looking at the frame to find a large stamped number with a decimal point and a number after that. On this pistol, the number was found underneath the serial number on the frame. The number will appear as a 17.3 or 19.9 or the like. What you do is add the number to the left of the decimal point to "1925" (the model year) and then the number to the right of the decimal point will be the month produced.

In other words, if the pistol you have has a 17.4 then it would be considered to have been produced in April of 1942 (4 being the month and 17 + 1925 = 1942). This method works for the Type 14 and 94 Japanese pistols, purportedly. Disassembly/Reassembly Let’s go ahead and begin the disassembly process.

Check to be sure that the pistol is unloaded by removing the magazine (26) to be certain no live rounds are in it and by pulling back on the cocking piece (6) to open the bolt so that you can visually inspect the chamber to ensure it is empty. Once this has been done and you are positive that the magazine and chamber are empty, reinsert the magazine and pull the trigger to disengage the firing pin (9) from the trigger bar (27). You must insert the magazine to fire this pistol as it has a magazine safety.

If, after you insert the magazine back into the pistol, you want to be sure it is empty, pull back on the cocking piece (knob) (6) just enough to expose the chamber so that you are

Shown here is the locking block attached to the bottom of the barrel, threaded rear of the bolt, the recoil spring, and, if you look closely, the rear lug of the firing pin itself. certain it is empty, and then release. Again, pull the trigger to ensure it is in the fired state of condition. Now remove the magazine (26) and set aside. Next, depress the firing pin extension (7) down with one finger so that you can begin unscrewing the cocking piece (6) with your other hand to remove it.

The firing pin extension (7), firing pin spring (8), and firing pin (9) can now be removed from the bolt body rearward. Shake them out or use ascribe to pull them free if needed. Remove the grip panels (29) by removing the single grip panel screws (30) from each side of the frame. Go slow here as you do not want to force the grips out as they have grooves in them that engage with the frame when installed properly. Remove the grips by pulling up from the bottom of each panel and lifting out.

When reinstalling the grip panels, do not over tighten the grip panel screw or you will crack or break the bottom of the grip panel. Just snug these screws up. With the grip panels removed, grasp the pistol by the grip frame (21) and press the barrel and extension (2) downward on your bench.

With the other hand, depress the magazine catch (24) fully down and while still pushing down on the barrel against the bench while holding it by the grips, you can now remove the trigger guard (19) by simply pulling it downward to slide it out of the grooves that retain it in the frame. You will find that the magazine catch (24) serves to lock the trigger guard (19) in place when properly installed on the frame.

With the trigger guard (group) now removed, remove the magazine catch (24) and magazine catch spring (25) from the frame by first pulling the magazine catch out from the left side of the frame. Shake or pull out the magazine catch (coil) spring (25) and set aside. To remove the barrel and extension (2), bolt (4), locking block (11), and the two recoil springs (5) as a unit, grasp the barrel assembly and position it where it would normally sit on the frame when closed.

Turn the safety catch (22) forward or in the fire position and lift the barrel extension and assembly up and out of the frame keeping an eye on the two recoil springs and locking block so that they do not fall out. With that unit out, remove both recoil springs and bolt by pulling it out from the rear of the barrel extension, then the locking block by pulling downward on it, and rotating it forward and out from its position underneath of the barrel.

The ejector (not shown in the accompanying schematic or parts list) is secured into the barrel and extension and can be drifted forward and out with a punch if necessary but typically it does not need to be. Inside at the back of the frame you will see a coil spring, the locking block spring (10) that can be removed by pulling it out of the rear of the frame from the hole that holds it in place.

To remove the safety catch (22), position the leg of it so that it is in line with the grip frame downward, then lift it out. Typically, you will need to wiggle it back and forth some to free it but never force it out of the frame. Still working with the frame, remove the trigger bar (27) and trigger bar spring (28) by drifting out the large headed trigger bar hinge pin (12). Note, the large head is on the inside of the frame, so drift out from the left outside of the frame and inward.

It is best to depress the trigger bar some while drifting this pin out to help free it up during removal. Then just pull

I have seen a couple of these come in missing this spring. It should only be removed when required and typically, it is not necessary. down on the trigger bar to remove it and the spring. Keep a watchful eye out for the small trigger bar spring (28) so you don’t lose it. Next, remove the magazine safety (13) and magazine safety spring and plunger (14) by drifting out the magazine safety hinge pin (23) from the right side of the frame to left. Only remove the magazine safety when actually necessary.

Note that the magazine safety spring and plunger (14) has a plunger affixed to the spring, therefore, you need to be aware of this as it is not listed or shown as a separate part in the parts list nor is it specifically noted in the schematic. Also, take note before you remove these parts so that they can be replaced in the same way. That completes the frame disassembly.

Moving back to the bolt (4), to remove the extractor (3), use a screwdriver blade tip or other similar tool to gently pry up on the front of the extractor where it is turned down and over the bolt face. You must go slow here and only pry the extractor face upward until it clears a small detent that holds it in place so that you can pull it forward and off of the bolt. Too much upward force can break the fragile part, so only remove when necessary (when broken, worn, adjusting, or bluing the bolt).

Finally, remove the trigger guard group (19). Disassembly of this unit should not be done unless absolutely necessary. To disassemble for repair or bluing, drift the trigger hinge pin (20) out from right to left. This will release the trigger assembly (15, 16, 17, and 18). Once the trigger assembly is removed, you can further disassemble it by drifting the trigger sear pin (18) out from right to left and that will release the trigger sear (15) and sear spring (16) from the trigger.

The front sight (1) can be readily removed by drifting it out from left to right as it is dovetailed in place on the barrel. This completes disassembly of the pistol. Reassembly of the pistol can be accomplished in the reverse order of the above instructions. Here area few reassembly tips. Use a slave pin to reinstall the trigger sear and sear spring to the trigger and drift the slave pin out when installing the trigger sear pin.

Then use a pin punch to line up the trigger assembly with the trigger guard and drift that punch out while installing the trigger assembly hinge pin. When installing or replacing the extractor, go slow and tap the extractor in place with a soft nylon hammer or other non-metal drift so as not to break or deform the bent end of the extractor during reassembly to the bolt. The magazine safety, spring, and plunger can also benefit from the use of a slave pin to speed up reassembly of that unit.

During reassembly of the barrel and extension assembly unit (consisting of the barrel and extension, the locking block, bolt body, and two recoil springs) onto the frame, make sure that the recoil springs seat properly back into the frame when installing. Position the assembly at a downward angle towards the rear of the frame and seat all into place, then pull the assembly rearward to make sure it is properly seated onto the frame. You should have already replaced the safety catch (22) in the frame.

When reinstalling the trigger guard (group), make sure that the magazine catch and magazine catch spring has already been inserted into the frame. Then, grasp the pistol grip area of the frame (21) and point the barrel downward onto

1 Front sight 2 Barrel and Barrel Extension 3 Extractor 4 Bolt 5 Recoil Springs (2) 6 Cocking Piece 7 Firing Pin Extension 8 Firing Pin Spring 9 Firing Pin 10 Locking Block Spring 11 Locking Block 12 Trigger Bar Hinge Pin 13 Magazine Safety 14 Magazine Safety Spring and Plunger 15 Trigger Sear your bench or other non-marring surface while fully depressing the magazine catch downward. Slide the trigger group upward into the frame rails where it seats in the frame.

Once fully inserted, release the magazine catch as it retains the trigger guard (group) in place on the frame. If you had not already replaced the firing pin back into the bolt body, do so now, sliding it all the way forward.

If it does not go all the Japanese Type 14 8x22mm Nambu (Speci ications subject to change without notice) 16 Sear Spring 17 Trigger 18 Trigger Sear Pin 19 Trigger Guard 20 Trigger Hinge Pin 21 Receiver (Frame) 22 Safety Catch 23 Magazine Safety Hinge Pin 24 Magazine Catch 25 Magazine Catch Spring 26 Magazine 27 Trigger Bar 28 Trigger Bar Spring 29 Left Grip (panels – 2) 30 Grip Screws (2) way forward, pull the trigger so that it will.

Once fully forward, replace the firing pin spring and then the firing pin extension into the back of the bolt body. The firing pin extension should be under spring tension when reinstalling the cocking piece (knob). Just place the cocking piece (knob) over the protruding end of the firing pin extension and begin rotating it. You will need to make sure that the firing pin extension "leg" gets placed in the bottom bolt body American Gunsmith Reader Services 1.

Use care when removing the extractor as it can bend or, worse, break. track or slot to correctly assemble. You will know when it is correctly in place as the cocking piece (knob) will be threaded nearly all the way down to the back of the frame. Troubleshooting Typically, these guns will come into your shop for reassembly (parts in a baggie) or for broken firing pins, weak springs, chipped or broken extractors, and jamming.

I have found that jamming is typically due to shooters that use war-era ammunition and that should be avoided at all times. It is always best to purchase and shoot modern-made ammunition or reload your own. But take caution in reloading as you should not load to or near maximum velocities and pressures. Just load the ammunition at standard velocities and pressures for this cartridge or as published for these original pistols.

Other jamming issues are due to bent, cracked, or deformed magazine lips and followers, along with bent or chipped extractors themselves. A good cleaning can also reduce jamming as the old corrosive gunpowder used back in the day tends to gum up the chamber area and bore. This powder residue will lead to corrosion and damage if left for prolonged periods of time. Weak recoil springs are common, as are weak firing pin springs.

This can be directly attributed to pistols that were cocked and stored in the cocked and ready to fire condition or with the action locked to the rear for safe inspection of the pistol and left that way in the safe. This places full compression tension on the springs and over many years the springs take a "set." When problems are found during shooting, it is best to replace the recoil springs and the firing pin spring. Firing pins are prone to breakage but not at such arate to be a very common occurrence.

Many of the pistols that I have worked on had a replacement or spare firing pin inserted into the slot in the original leather holster under the flap. Fitting a replacement firing pin is straight forward, just remember to perform the shock tests to be sure that the firing pin cannot be jolted to the point that it fires when bumping the pistol while cocked. Finally, magazines get weak, especially when the owner has loaded the magazine(s) full of ammunition and left it that way for many years.

This weakens the magazine spring significantly. That, along with dropped magazines on hard surfaces deforms the lips or breaks them, and is the leading cause of jams—other than the 75 year old ammunition found at gun shows or in grandpa’s safe. Hopefully this short article will aid you in working the next "8mm Jap Nambu" that comes across your bench. I suspect you will see one or more as many were produced and are floating around out there. This is a fun pistol to shoot.

Just know that parts continue to dry up and if you are lucky enough to have one with all matching serial numbers, maybe it is best left holstered as a keepsake or collectible rather than chancing a breakage at the local range. AG