Beretta Cheetah Model 84

There are a number of Beretta Cheetah Model 84 pistol versions. My work on one demonstrates key points common to them all. These compact and user friendly pistols have survived the test of time as they continue to be manufactured today in some form of the original version. Beretta designed and manufactures these for importation into the United States. This pistol sports a newly applied Cerakote finish.

When a firearm has been newly Cerakoted, you will find that each part may need to be worked somewhat (polished) to remove some of the thick coating that was applied so that the firearm actually functions when reassembled. by Mark R. Hollensen I recently had a Beretta model 84 pistol come into my shop, completely disassembled and placed in a plastic bin. This happens quite a bit with a number of different guns I take in for repairs or servicing.

This particular pistol had been Cerakoted (obviously) and it appeared that the company was unable to reassemble it, so the customer brought it to me for reassembly. It should be noted that Beretta made a number of the Cheetah models with different calibers and internal designs. In other words, you may or may not see illustrated assembly manuals or schematics that match the particular model you have in front of you. This particular pistol illustrates that point.

As with all disassembled firearms, I first look for information about them along with a schematic that lists all parts so I can determine if the parts are accounted for. Often there will beapart or more missing from the box or baggie. I am happy to report this one had all the parts with it, a positive change for me. While searching my library for information, I realized that the books I had that list the Beretta Model 84 in them didn’t cover this particular pistol at all.

Sure, some of the assembly was the same but I found that the internal parts listed in those books and schematics didn’t apply to this pistol. A wider search didn’t help much either. I checked my file of owner’s manuals and then downloaded a Model 84 Beretta manual from their website. Again, no such luck finding the same pistol configuration. I did, however, find a schematic for one pistol that closely resembled it—a Beretta Model 80X—so I ended up using that as my guiding document.

For the purposes of this article, I used that schematic as my go-by even though it was not a true match covering all parts associated with this pistol. A little historical information about the Beretta Cheetah line of pistols netted a variety of designs and calibers that you may see at some point. They all are truly nice pistols and typically don’t have functioning issues if kept clean. They make nice personal protection guns depending on the caliber you choose.

Beretta introduced the Cheetah line in 1976 and they have been producing them ever since in 32 ACP, 380 ACP, and 22 LR calibers. The models made that I found were the Model 81, 82, 83, 84, 85, 86, 87, 87 Target, and 89 Target. There is also a model 80X which sports a Picatinny rail along with other changes that purportedly came out in 2022. There are FS models, an X model, a BB model and target models, and each have some variation or more that the others do not.

You will also find versions such as the base model, the B, BB, F, and again, the FS model. The pistol we are focused on here is a Model 84 in 380 ACP caliber with a 4" barrel and a double-stack

Grouping aids in the reassembly process as well, whether or not you know exactly how the parts are installed or interface with each other during the early stages of the assembly. This is also a good time to inspect working parts for any damage or excessive/abnormal wear issues in case you need to order in apart or two. magazine. Since there was limited information about this particular version, I wasn’t able to ascertain where it fell in the version/model lineup.

I assume it is an FS version but was never able to verify that. It does have the rounded trigger guard that is found on the BB version however. For the purpose of this assembly, I am using the schematic with the nomenclature and part numbering found for the Beretta Model 80X contained inside of the owner’s manual. The pistol covered here was manufactured in 1983 based on the two-digit date code found on the right side of the trigger guard (AL coded).

It had recently been Cerakoted as mentioned previously, so extra care needed to be taken to not damage or blemish the finish during reassembly. And since the pistol was completely disassembled when it arrived in my shop, I am covering the reassembly, however, these instructions will apply when disassembling the pistol when the need exists. So with clean hands and a clean bench top we’ll begin. Detailed Reassembly After comparing and grouping the parts according to the schematic, begin by installing the safety.

It can be installed for either a right hander or a lefty, so install it on the side the customer requests. In this case, it belonged to a right handed shooter. The safety has two lugs and a coil spring, called the (47) magazine release button spring guide (left), the (48) magazine release button spring, and the (49) magazine release button spring guide (right).

This assembly should be installed (housed) in the The accompanying schematic does not show or list this pin among other parts as no schematic was located for this particular pistol model. (46) magazine release button. Once assembled, start the release button with the protruding end towards the side you want it to operate from: left side for right handed and right side for left handed use.

Once you start the release into the frame cut out for it, depress the smaller end while pushing down on the unit firmly and work it into the frame. Go slow and be deliberate as it typically goes in easy and, more importantly, will not mark or scratch the newly coated frame. Once in place, test it with the magazine to be sure it is functioning properly. The next part to install is the hammer (32). Only install the hammer at this time; the strut or hammer spring guide (33) and mainspring (50) will be installed later.

Insert the hammer from the top of the frame and install the hammer pin (37) from the left side of the frame. The hammer pin has a protruding end on it and it will be faced upward on the left side of the frame as it will soon capture the left side safety lever plunger when the safety is installed. For now, just install the hammer and hammer pin. This next step can be complex in that you need some tooling to align and install the parts.

Take the sear (43) and press the sear spring (44) into the sear to align the coil spring with the hole in the sear. The long leg of the sear spring goes upward and lays in a notch cut out for it on the face of the sear body. To hold the spring in place, use a slave pin. Once the spring was captured to the sear, I used a forceps clamped onto the top of the sear to allow inserting the sear into place and align the sear pin hole for installation of the sear pin (41).

Inserting the sear into the frame, the curved leg of the sear spring should be placed over the sear spring pin (42) that may be in the frame already or will need to be installed now. Once the curved leg is position over the sear spring pin, move the

Installation of the sear and sear spring assembly goes slow but it can be done provided enough hands are in play. Above center: Note the right side safety plunger pressed up against the protruding post on the hammer frame pin. Be careful installing the right side safety as this detent plunger and/or spring can jump into the world of the never found. The safety can be tested at this point whether or not the right side has been installed. sear into position and align the sear pin hole with the holes in the frame.

It helps to press in on the sear assembly with your thumb during this alignment and then insert a pin punch from the left side of the frame and push the slave pin out. Insert the sear pin (41) into the frame hole for it from the right side of the frame and seat it fully, capturing the sear and sear spring. The sear will now be under spring pressure and you can cock the hammer to see if it locks back into place.

If so, use a small pin punch to depress the front top of the sear, pull- This secures the trigger bar to the frame assembly and you can now function test the trigger, sear, and hammer interface. Just make sure the front of the trigger bar doesn’t release from the trigger or you will be back to hooking that pesky spring leg again! ing the hammer rearward enough to release the sear from the hammer and then lower the hammer fully forward.

With the hammer (32) fully forward in the frame, insert the hammer strut or hammer spring guide (33) and the hammer spring (50) by dropping it into place down into the frame hole from the bottom of the receiver. Make sure the spring guide bend is facing towards the rear of the pistol as you do this. Once it is down into the frame, install the hammer spring cap (51). Slide it into the hole for it in the bottom of the frame and work it in until you can fully press it down flush with the bottom of the frame.

If super tight, re-check to make sure that the hammer is fully forward and if not, release it from the sear engagement. Once the hammer spring cap is flush, insert the hammer spring cap pin (45) which will secure the assembly into the frame. This is a good time to function test the hammer again to be sure it is working correctly, visually confirming the strut is in the back of the hammer. Install the left side safety (38). This pistol has an ambidextrous safety.

Place a dab of grease on the safety lever spring (40) and insert it into the hole located in the left side safety lever (38). Put some grease on the bottom of the safety lever plunger (39) and place it onto the spring. The grease will hold the detent and spring in place while inserting the safety into the frame hole. You will first have to cock the hammer fully rearward so you can fit the safety leg into the frame.

Once you have the safety started, place light downward pressure on the safety and use your other hand to depress the safety lever plunger (39) with a small pin punch, allowing the safety lever to be fully seated. Keep an eye on the plunger as you perform this task so as not to lose it. Check to be sure that the safety works by carefully keeping it flush with the frame during testing. Moving on, place the trigger (17) into place in the frame by feeding it upwards into the frame from inside of the trigger guard loop.

Install the pin used during slide disassembly into the frame from the right side of the frame below the takedown lever; note, these two parts are not shown in the accompanying schematic. The pin has a notch in the head of it and it interlocks with the slide takedown lever when installed. This pin has a small hole in the center of it, insert the trigger spring (18) into this hole during

The small pin that is interlocked with it is the pin that the front leg of the trigger spring fits into and is used to actuate this plunger-type pin. You can also see how the lever interfaces with the takedown lever (the notch in the pin head). This is standard on most Beretta takedown systems. You can also see how the slide catch/trigger frame pin is installed. Underneath this slide catch is the slide catch spring.

When removing the catch, be on the lookout for the spring so you don’t lose it. the trigger assembly. Begin here by inserting the long straight leg of the trigger spring (18) into the hole in this pin. Now lay the trigger spring down and compress it into the notch in the top of the trigger, aligning the coil loop with the hole in the top of the trigger.

Make sure that the bent end or "bend" of the trigger spring at the rear of the trig- The small curved end is perfect for picking up and pulling the rear of the trigger spring until the trigger bar pin can be inserted and ultimately captured by this spring which rides on top of that pin. The trigger assembly (to me) is the most tedious and time consuming part of the reassembly. Disassembly is quick, however. ger is facing upwards as this will be used to capture the trigger bar (19) when installed.

To pin the trigger and trigger spring into the frame, you will need the slide catch (20) and the slide catch spring (21). Start the slide catch spring onto the slide catch with the long leg down and facing rearward. Insert the slide catch into the trigger hole on the left side of the frame and begin the process of capturing the trigger and the trigger spring. Once captured, press the slide catch fully in until the slide catch spring is up against the frame.

Rotate the slide catch spring (long leg) and place it into the cut made for it on the slide catch. Once in place, apply light downward pressure on the slide catch and use a thin knife blade to press down on the short leg of the slide catch spring until it goes into the frame slot cut for it. You will know when it is in place as you will be able to fully seat the slide catch flush with the frame.

Check to make sure the trigger spring is in place and proper position and the long leg is still in the slide takedown pin hole. If it is, clamp the frame upright in a padded vise to secure it. Using a small bent tool (I used a dental pick that has a small 90 degree bend on the end of it), insert it into the frame and pick up the bent end of the trigger spring (18). Lift that end upward and towards the front of the frame until it clears the trigger bar hole in the frame.

Holding it there, insert the trigger bar (19) into the hole in the frame for it, but only start the front pin of the trigger bar at this point—enough so as to capture the bend end of the trigger spring. The trigger bar holds this spring in place. Carefully start installing the rear of the trigger bar into the frame. The rear pin of the trigger bar interfaces with the sear at the rear of the frame.

As you work the trigger bar down and into place, insert the trigger bar spring (24) with the bent end upwards and the straight leg laying down flat into the frame slot cut for it. Press the spring into place between the frame and bottom of the trigger bar unit until it is captured by the trigger bar, then fully seat the trigger bar into place. Holding onto the trigger bar, test the trigger and sear to ensure it is working properly and releasing the sear when the trigger is pulled.

If all checks out, install the right side safety (35) as it captures the trigger bar. Place the right side safety onto the left side safety post and position it so that you can install the little roll pin called the safety spring pin (34). Press this roll pin into place. With the safety now fully installed, you can function test the hammer, trigger, and sear, single and double action. Just make sure you hold onto the hammer and prevent it from slamming into the back of the frame.

Install both grip panels (55 & 56) using the four grip panel screws (54). On this pistol, there were no spring washers (53) and the panel bushings (52) were already screwed into the frame. With the grips installed, insert the slide takedown lever (part not shown in schematic). Work this lever into the hole for it from the

Beretta Cheetah Model 84 (Speci ications subject to change without notice) 1 Barrel 2 Recoil Spring Assembly 3 Slide 4 Front Sight 5 Extractor 6 Extractor Spring 7 Extractor Pin 8 Cover Plate w/Rear Sight 9 Cover Plate Screw 10 Firing Pin Spring 11 Firing Pin 12 Firing Pin Stop Pin 13 Firing Pin Catch Spring Guide 14 Firing Pin Catch Spring 15 Firing Pin Catch 16 Frame 17 Trigger 18 Trigger Spring 19 Trigger Bar 20 Slide Catch right side of the frame and leave the lever pointing upwards so it is ready to accept the slide assembly when final assembly is done.

Turning our attention to the slide, begin by placing the firing pin spring (10) over the nose end of the firing pin 21 Slide Catch Spring 22 Disassembling Latch 23 Dis.

Latch Release Button 24 Trigger Bar Spring 25 Front Ejector Pin 26 Rear Ejector Pin 27 Firing Pin Catch Lever 28 Firing Pin Catch Lever Spring 29 Ejector 30 Hammer Stop Spring 31 Hammer Stop 32 Hammer 33 Hammer Spring Guide. 34 Safety Spring Pin 35 Safety Lever, Right 36 Trigger Release Lever 37 Hammer Pin 38 Safety Lever, Left 39 Safety Lever Plunger 40 Safety Lever Spring 41 Sear Pin 42 Sear Spring Pin 43 Sear 44 Sear Spring 45 Hammer Spring Cap Pin 46 Magazine Release Button 47 Magazine Release Button Spring Guide, Left 48 Magazine Release Button Spring 49 Magazine Release Button Spring Guide, Right 50 Hammer Spring 51 Hammer Spring Cap 52 Panel Bush 53 Spring Washer 54 Panel Screw 55 Right Grip Panel 56 Left Grip Panel 57 Magazine (11) and insert both into the slide, making sure that the groove in the firing pin aligns where the slide pin (part not shown) will retain it.

Install the extractor coil spring (6). Place a dab of grease on the end of it and set it down into the extractor slot in the slide on the rear end of the slot. Place the extractor (5) over the coil spring and into the slot in the slide and press downward over the coil spring. At the same time, push the firing pin forward in the slide and then capture all with a pin punch inserted from the bottom of the slide.

The hole in the bottom of the slide is smaller in diameter than the top of that hole where the slide pin is installed. Start the solid slide pin from the top and tap it into place as you withdraw the pin punch from the bottom of the slide. Again, this solid pin is not shown on the accompanying schematic. Check the firing pin and extractor movement to ensure the pin is in correctly and has captured both units. Install the barrel (1) and recoil spring (2), then install the slide assembly back onto the frame rails.

Once you have it on the frame, lock the slide to the rear with the slide catch, then depress the takedown pin from the left side of the frame and rotate the takedown lever downward to secure the slide assembly to the frame. You can now perform full function and safety tests to be sure it is operating correctly. Disassembly will be in reverse and there are no additional tips needed or warranted for that procedure.

I suspect many of you will get one of these in for repair or reassembly at some point and hopefully this detailed reassembly will help. This particular model was internally different than all of schematics and disassembly manuals that I have in my library. And, to date, I have not found the exact owner’s manual or schematic for this particular 1983-made pistol so contact Beretta when ordering parts, especially if you are ordering them based on the schematic and parts listing accompanying this article.

You will want the correct parts for the model/version in front of you. AG