Marlin Ballard

Another one of the famous Marlin Ballard-made rifles came into my shop recently, not so much for repair, but in for a deep cleaning, inspection, and more importantly, to determine whether or not it was all original. As guns are passed down through the family, very often the recipient has little or no idea what exactly they were left or given (make/model/caliber), or even the history of that firearm.

Sure, you will get the stories of how granddad used it to take a monster buck with it, or it was his favorite squirrel or target rifle. And sometimes you will get a full detailed history of who owned it in the family, and what all it was used for. But seldom do you get the historical significance or information about the firearm itself, and often this is what the customer is seeking.

In this case, he was looking for confirmation that it was all original and was mechanically capable of shooting, along with a good deep scrubbing and lubrication. C. H. Ballard originally patented the Ballard action and early on it was manufactured by a number of companies, primarily chambered in rimfire cartridges. Fast forward to around 1875, the Marlin-Bal- 5 Pacific Model Single Shot Rifle. A falling or dropping block design, it was well-accepted by hunters and sportsman during its day.

It was quick to load, fire, and unload, and the double triggers were highly sought after due to the super light and clean break they gave the shooter. These rifles remain very collectible and sought after even today. lard rifles showed up after John M. Marlin and later, the Marlin Firearms Company, manufactured them. The early rifles made by John Marlin were offered from 1879 to 1881, being made in New Haven, Connecticut. From 1881 to 1889 the rifles were made by the Marlin Firearms Company, again in New Haven.

The rifles were known as falling block or dropping block action rifles and could be loaded, fired, and unloaded quickly, as compared with other black powder rifles of that era, and were considered to be fairly accurate. Over the span of their newly available lifetime, the rifles could be had in a number of model offer- When ings and calibers. Therefore, you may see one from the following list of model numbers hit your bench at some point.

These include the Number 1 Hunter’s Model, Number 1 ½ Hunter’s Model, Number 1 ¾ Hunter’s Model, Number 2 Sporting Model, Number 4 Perfection Model, Number 4 ½ Mid-Range Model, Number 5 Pacific Model (the model we are discussing today), Number 5 ½ Montana Model, Number 6 Schuetzen Model, Number 6 ½ Off-Hand Model (aka, No. 6 ½ Rigby Model), Number 7, 7 A.1, and 7 A.1 Extra Models, Number 8 Model, Number 9 Model, The Union Hill Model (New No. 8 and New No. 9 Models), and the Number 10 Schuetzen Junior Model.

There is quite a bit of historical information available for the Ballards (early) and Marlin Ballards, and several books have been written that contain a great deal of information that can be very helpful when researching the particular rifle in for repair, service, or inspection.

There were also a number of cartridge offerings for these guns, so you really need to do your research on that alone to ensure that the caliber is correct for the particular make and model firearm researching the various Marlin Ballard rifles, pay close attention to the details of the rifle and what it has, doesn’t have, and how it was constructed.

This one was pinned in place and other models had a screw that passed through the hole. The photo also shows one of the many serial numbers stamped on this rifle. You’ll want to look for the serial number on the parts and accessories as you work through it to validate whether it is an all-numbers matching rifle or not. Be careful removing the forend as you can break the wood if not paying attention.

These two pins secure the rear of the forend wood while the pin or screw through the barrel secures it to the barrel itself. After removing the pin or screw, pull down and forward at the same time gently to free it from these pins. you have in front of you. The rifle being covered today was no exception.

Books like A Guide to the Ballard Breechloader by George Layman and Marlin & Ballard Firearms & History, All Arms 1861-1978 by Bill West are very informative and much needed if you get a number of these coming in regularly. You must wiggle and remove the extractor from the receiver before the action block can be fully removed downward and out from the receiver opening. And you must work the extractor back into place before the breechblock can be reinstalled into the receiver.

Also, the extractor often has the caliber stamped on it, but not in every case as this one was not stamped. The extractor has already been taken out. Note that the action block is self-contained, a real plus back in the day where it would help prevent dirt and debris from entering the action during use. As mentioned previously, the rifle being discussed today is the Marlin Ballard Number 5 Pacific Model rifle.

When first handed to me, I was told it was chambered in 38-55 Winchester Center Fire and had been in the family for some 100-plus years. The Pacific model rifles came with double set triggers and were greatly admired by hunters and sportsman of that time period. These rifles also came with 30-32" heavy octagonal barrels and open type and receiver-mounted peep sights.

Different from all other Ballard guns, it had a "wiping rod" or cleaning rod as we call them today, affixed to the bottom of the barrel with two barrel bands. The original wooden rods alone were too short to reach the full length of the bore but the rifle came with an attachment that you would thread onto this wiping rod so that it was long enough to pass through completely. I have yet to see either an original rod or the attachment with the rifle when brought in for service.

The rifles weighed between 10-12 pounds and came in a variety of calibers such as the 38-50, 38-55, 40-63, 40-65; 40-85, 40-90, 44-75, and 45-100, all listed as Ballard calibers, as well as the 40-70 Sharps, 44-40 Winchester, 44-77 Sharps and 45-70 Government. Therefore, they made something available for just about any hunting/shooting situation or need. Enough of that—let’s get started on this old beauty!

Disassembly The following instructions apply to the Marlin Ballard No. 5 Pacific Model rifle, but can also be applied to other Marlin Ballard models. There will be some differences but for the most part, this will get you where you need to go when deep cleaning or repairing them. As always, visually check the chamber to ensure the rifle is not loaded.

I like to perform a full function test before getting started to see if it is loose, operating properly, or if there are mechanical issues going on with it that need to be addressed when opening it up. I also keep a notepad handy to

Once the action block has been removed, you pretty much have a disassembled barreled action ready for that deep scrub. Far On this rifle, the screw that secures the finger lever to the action block had broken at some point, and the threaded stud end is still stuck in the right side action block plate.

That said, the gun still works in this condition as the receiver prevents the broken finger lever screw from falling out during use. write down serial numbers located on the individual parts along with other items of interest found during the disassembly process. This also includes barrel length, stock length (both buttstock and forend wood) and whether the screws are butchered up from being opened up previously with the wrong type of screwdriver bit. Begin by removing the wiping rod if the rifle has one attached.

Turn your attention to the forend wood. This one was pinned to the barrel and I have had others that 5 Pacific model came with a double-set trigger system. Removal of two screws allows pulling the self-contained unit out free from the bottom of the receiver. You can test the triggers while out to make sure they are working. Also, look inside the receiver to make sure no broken spring parts are in there. They are useful when making springs for this rifle (size and shape) since parts are nearly dried up.

A photo such as this helps if you get a rifle in where all of the parts were disassembled and scrambled in a plastic baggie! Also, you can set the rear trigger and release the set by pulling the front trigger which helps with function testing while removed from the rifle. were secured by a screw instead. In either case, the pin or screw will have been installed through a hole that was drilled through the bottom of the barrel.

This is important to know when removing either the pin or screw so you don’t damage the forend wood while introducing a pin punch to tap it out. The best way to determine which way to remove the pin type is to visually look at each end of the pin to see if it is a tad smaller or tapered and if so, remove it by tapping on it from that side. Over 130 years, the pins are often found to have been removed and replaced from both sides of the forend.

Once the pin or screw is removed, take care when removing the forend wood as there are two protruding pins located at the front of the receiver that fit into the back of the forend wood preventing the rear of the forend from coming off or sliding down when in use. Therefore, you will want to pull downward carefully a little bit and at the same time forward so as to ease the forend off from the face of the receiver and the two protruding pins. Next I like to remove the buttstock.

Begin by removing both buttplate screws and then pull the buttplate off. Now is the time to inspect the inside of the buttplate to determine if the serial number inside matches the serial number of the rifle on the frame. Either way, I write this down. There is a difference between an original, all numbers matching rifle (any firearm really) and one that has been re-worked or restored using parts from other like rifles. After removing the buttplate, you will have access to the "through stock" bolt or screw.

Typically this has a slotted screw head on it and you simply use the correct sized screwdriver bit to remove it. Once the screw is backed out and free (or removed completely from the stock) grasp the rifle with one hand and the buttstock with the other

It was time for a good cleaning. Also note that the sear or trigger spring is staked into place in the right side breechblock plate cutout for it. It comes out easily if you move the hammer back a tad to release it. Make sure you remove the pin that holds it as you could potentially lose it during the parts wash or air compressor blow-down. and apply careful pressure while pulling the buttstock rearward to dislodge it from the receiver and (6) the stock lug or tang.

The long stock screw just removed (26) screws into this cone-shaped stock lug that is attached to the back of the receiver. This system makes the stock to receiver fitment much stronger than other types or versions. Once the buttstock is removed, I would check it for a serial number (along with the forend wood) as the original stocks had the number stamped on them as well. If no number is found, then the stock set is likely not original and was added later.

You should also note if any of the parts, screws, or pins removed are original to the rifle or obviously aftermarket parts when evaluating the rifle for your customer. Moving forward, remove the action block assembly or breechblock halves (11 & 12). Again, since I am working on a No. 5 Pacific Model today, these instructions match the itemized disassembly for that particular model. Begin by removing the lever screw (24). This screw is the pivot screw in the frame for the finger lever (21) itself.

Using the correct sized screwdriver bit, back out and remove it now. This one screw secures the entire locking block assembly inside of the receiver. With it now removed, you can pull downward on the lever and pull the locking block assembly out. However, go slow here as you must remove (wiggle out) the extractor (23) from the receiver before the action block assembly will come out. This can be tricky and is really the most difficult part of the entire disassembly and reassembly process.

I start the breechblock assembly downward and at the same time use my other hand to move the extractor (23) rearward and then downward while wiggling the action block until the extractor falls free from the receiver. Once the extractor is removed, pull the action block assembly out from the bottom of the receiver by angling it downward at the front and pulling down and forward to clear the rear of the action block from the receiver opening. You now have the barreled action stripped down less removal of the sights.

You should go over it now, looking for markings, stamps (such as a JM stamp), dates, caliber, serial numbers, etc., as you will have unobstructed views of the entire rifle or barreled action. Setting that aside, open up the action block or breechblock assembly. Begin by removing the screw that secures the finger lever to the action block. It is easy to locate as the lever pivots on this one screw (22) named the lever link screw.

On the rifle I have today, this particular screw was nowa pin as the threaded stud was broken off and stuck in the action block plate. This is common as this screw gets quite a bit of torque applied to it during chambering and extracting and the screws were not hardened steel. Once this screw is removed, the finger lever is released from the action block. You will notice a small link, called the (10) lever link attached to the front of the finger lever and it is simply held in place with a screw.

It is not necessary to remove the link or screw for cleaning purposes. You are now ready to disassemble the action block assembly. If you have the No. 5 Pacific Model rifle in front of you, it will most likely have the double set triggers installed. Remove this by unscrewing both small screws that secure the trigger plate to the bottom of the breechblock assembly. Once both screws are out, pull the trigger plate out and it will contain all of the parts for the trigger assembly.

This trigger plate assembly or the two retaining screws are not shown on the accompanying schematic, so I have included a couple closeup photos of the trigger plate. With this plate assembly removed, you can test it now to make sure it is working properly. Set the rear trigger and pull the front trigger if it is working properly and no springs or pins are broken. I have found that on all four of the No. 5 Pacific Model rifles I have encountered that the triggers work the same way.

You must set the rear trigger first with

This heavy lug supports the butt stock grip area and is threaded for the butt stock through bolt that secures the stock to the receiver. Note that it too has a serial number stamped on it. It is a newer stock (as is the forend wood) and both were fitted with Acraglas (most likely) which was used to fit the stock and butt plate to the rifle—at least it looks like Acraglas to me. the hammer down or forward and at rest.

Once the rear trigger is set, cock the hammer, and then pulling the front trigger releases the hammer when firing. I have not seen this particular model come with two triggers that you can use the front one for heavy trigger pull and the rear one for the set trigger light pull. Nor have I had one of these in that allows you to cock the hammer until the rear trigger has been set first. With the trigger plate assembly and two screws removed and set aside, function test the hammer and sear still in the block assembly.

Looking through the bottom opening of the action block assembly (where you just removed the trigger plate) cock the hammer and see the sear catch, and then use your finger to push in on the rear of the sear and release the hammer—just make sure to hold onto the hammer so it doesn’t slam forward. This will give you an indication of whether or not you have bigger problems with the hammer and sear engagement as you move forward with the disassembly.

In the attached schematic, this "block" is actually constructed with two side plates screwed together. They are called the (11) breechblock, left and (12) breechblock, right. This breechblock assembly is held together by three screws. Begin by removing the screw at the rear of the breechblock, the (20) rear block screw and set it aside. Keep these screws in order as they must go back into the same hole each are removed from (or should anyway). Next, remove the hammer screw (19).

It is best that you use one hand to cock the hammer back a little bit while using the other hand to start and then back out the hammer screw with a screwdriver. The hammer and mainspring puts pressure on this screw so pulling the hammer rearward some and moving it back and forth while unscrewing the screw helps with the removal and prevents damage to the screw threads. Turn the block assembly over and remove the firing pin screw (18) called the block screw.

This screw holds the block together as well as keeps the firing pin in the block. Once this third screw is removed, hold onto the action block, turn it over and lay it down on the bench with the right side of the block panel down and the left side panel facing upwards. Do this because the mainspring (15), hammer (14), sear and sear pin (not shown in schematic but in photograph), and sear spring (16) shown in the schematic as the trigger spring, are all contained in the right side block panel.

I usually use one hand to move the hammer rearward like when cocking it and this normally separates the two plates—at least enough for you to pry them apart by hand or with a popsicle stick. Basically you will be prying the left side panel off and upward from the right side panel. With that removed, you will see the above listed parts still in the right side panel along with the firing pin (13) that will either be in the left or right side breechblock panel.

Pull the firing pin out from the groove in the panel and set aside. Next, and on this No. 5 Pacific Model, use one hand to pull the hammer back a little to release pressure on the sear and with your other hand, lift the sear and sear pin off of the plate. The pin comes out with the sear but sometimes gets stuck in the plate. Just be aware of it when cleaning and the hitting the unit with an air compressor so it doesn’t become lost.

With the sear and sear pin removed, lift the hammer (14) out, then the mainspring (15) will come out as well. This now completes the disassembly of the rifle. On other models, like shown in the attached schematic, there will be a single trigger to remove instead of the sear and sear pin, and the sear spring as shown applies pressure on the trigger (17) that is also the sear (basically). The trigger (17) is normally pinned in place in the action block on those models.

That is basically the only difference that you will see. Reassembly is performed in reverse. The action block goes back together fairly easily. Once all parts are back in the right side breechblock panel, including the firing pin (13), I replace the left side panel and then move the hammer back a little to fully seat the side plates together. Once that is accomplished, I first install

Marlin Ballard (Speci ications subject to change without notice) 1 Barrel 2 Front Sight 3 Receiver 4 Rear Sight 5 Rear Sight Screws 6 Stock Lug 7 Forearm the firing pin screw or (18) block screw but do not fully tighten it. Then I install the rear block screw (20) and again, do not fully tighten it. Finally, I install the hammer screw (19).

This is best done by moving the hammer rearward while installing the screw to help align the hammer screw hole with the side plates and to keep pressure off of the screw and threads while screwing it into place. You can fully tighten this screw when in all the way, and then final tighten the other two screws (18 & 20) and the block will be back together. Now reinstall the trigger plate. You can lubricate the parts in it now and then set it in place in the receiver and replace both screws.

Again, this is for the No. 5 Pacific Model. The only other reassembly snag will be reinstalling the action block into the receiver along with 22 Lever Link Screw 23 Extractor 24 Lever Screw 25 Stock Insert 26 Stock Bolt 27 Buttplate 28 Buttplate Screws 8 Forearm Insert 9 Forearm Screw 10 Lever Link 11 Breechblock, Left 12 Breechblock, Right 13 Firing Pin 14 Hammer 15 Mainspring 16 Trigger Spring 17 Trigger 18 Block Screws 19 Hammer Screw 20 Rear Block Screw 21 Finger Lever the extractor.

The block will not go into place if the extractor is already seated into the chamber area. So you have to move the extractor up and work it into place while moving the action block up and into place. Once the extractor (23) is seated into the chamber cutout for it and the action block assembly (11 & 12) is back into place, you can align the bottom of the extractor hole with the finger lever hole and the finger lever frame hole and replace the finger lever screw (24).

Make sure that you test it now to ensure it is working properly and that the finger lever screw is snug. The rifle I covered today had newer made and fitted parts, including the buttstock, forend wood, buttstock bolt, buttplate screws, and a home-made pin made from what looked like drill rod to pin the forend wood to the barrel. The buttplate was stamped with a serial number from another rifle. I also noted that the extractor (23) had no markings on it, but others I have worked on had the caliber stamped on them.

Also, the wiping rod was not original; so far, I have not had the pleasure of seeing such an animal and they are typically just missing from the rifle completely. The rifle did have the rear tang sight plug screws installed but no tang sight, however, the buckhorn-type rear sight and front sight appeared to be original. I also noted that the caliber was not stamped on this rifle, nor was the JM stamp that you will often see on the later produced rifles.

The customer had been told that the rifle was a 38-55 Ballard but checking the chamber during the inspection found that it was actually a you will quickly find this information out is to try and chamber a 38-55 cartridge. If it almost fits but you cannot close the breech block over it, then it is the 38-50. Not a huge difference, but is if you can’t close the breech.

These guns were readily accepted when first made as they could be loaded and fired quickly as compared to the muzzleloaders of the day, were accurate, and had great triggers. It wouldn’t be too many years later that the repeating rifles overtook the single shots but they were, and still are on most accounts, accurate and fun to shoot. And they often make nice looking custom rifles.

Just be sure and let your customer know that they should seek out ammunition manufacturers that produce black powder loads for these old rifles if they plan on shooting them, just to be safe. And if the customer is lucky enough to have a nice looking, all-numbers matching rifle in their safe, they have a nice collectible that is worth some money and would be best left alone and not fired. AG