Working the Winchester Model 1873/1876 and Modern Replica

Winchester’s Model 1873 is well known to shooters today, and in fact is one of the few firearms that became an instant classic almost from the day it was introduced’not coincidentally’in 1873. The new Winchester ’73 rifle was a real improvement over what had previously been considered the "world-standard lever action," the original Winchester Model 1866 repeater, known to many as the Yellowboy for its brass frame.

The older Model 1866 was a great gun and very well liked, but its underpowered .44rimfire cartridge limited its usefulness. Like the Model 1866, the Winchester Model 1873 also used a tubular magazine under its barrel, but from the start the ’73 was manufactured with an iron frame and was chambered for a more powerful new centerfire cartridge, the .44 WCF, or the 44-40 as it is better known.

The New Haven firm manufactured the 1873 Model for 46 years until 1919, when a grand total of about 720,000 weapons had been produced. Originally chambered for the .44 WCF, later versions of Winchester’s Model 1873 were offered in .38 Winchester (38-40) and .32 Winchester (32-20) centerfire WCF calibers. All of these rounds are also handgun cartridges, of course. Roughly another 19,000 Model 73s were also manufactured to shoot .22 rimfire caliber.

The majority of standard production 1873s were made in a blue finish, with the lever, hammer, firearm cap, and buttplate beautifully contrasting in a color-case-hardened finish. Some early guns (and a few made later on special order) were produced with an optional color-case-hardened receiver, with the barrel and magazine tube either blued or browned. Model 1873s were cataloged in a carbine configuration having a lightweight 20-inch round barrel or as muskets with a 30inch barrel.

By far, however, the most popular version was the 24-inch barreled rifle, which came in both octagonal and round configurations with a half-round/octagon offered as an option. Winchester’s Centennial model, the Model 1876, introduced three years later, was really sort of an over- Top of page: The Winchester Model 1873 was one of the most popular rifles of all time, a popularity that has been revived by its modern replicas. Pictured here is the Uberti Model 1873 short-rifle replica.

Author photos. sized and elongated version of the Model 1873. A large-framed repeating rifle, the 1876 was introduced to fill the need for a more powerful rifle than the 1873. Thus, the 1876 Model was chambered for many big-game cartridges of the day as well as a few rounds that Winchester introduced specifically for this rifle. The lineup included such powerful calibers as 40-60, 45-60, 45-75 and 50-95 calibers.

Popular as it was, the 1876 was largely superseded by the much stronger Winchester Model 1886, but the company continued to manufacture the 1876 model on through 1897, producing a total of 63, 871 weapons. The classy ’76 was available as a 22-inch round-barreled carbine, as a rifle with a 26- or 28-inch round or octagon barrel (the most popular version), as well as in a musket configuration with a 32-inch round barrel.

One enthusiastic owner of the Winchester Model 1876, who was also among the bestknown big-game hunters of the day,

Right top: Remove these screws and the buttstock can be pulled off toward the rear. Right bottom: Expose the action by removing the sideplates. Once they’re off, the links can be lifted out from either side of the action. was none other than Theodore Roosevelt. Basic Disassembly The instructions will work for both the Model 1873 and 1876, and use the somewhat more modern Uberti 1873 parts nomenclature. The instructional steps will also work for Ubertimade modern replicas and similar firearms.

Differences between the modern clones and the original Winchester rifles will be noted where appropriate. These differences are limited primarily to the bolt/firing pin area and the magazine-tube area. 1. The first step, of course, is to be sure the rifle is unloaded. Hold the rifle by the barrel or the wooden forearm with one hand, pointing the muzzle in a safe direction, and twist the lever hook (#542) until it faces side to side. The lever hook is located behind the lever loop on the lower tang.

This unlocks the lever, allowing it to be opened. Next, open the action by pulling the lever (#89) down all the way with your other hand. At this point, check to be sure there is no cartridge in the barrel chamber, and look closely also to be sure there is not a cartridge laying in the carrier block (#7) inside the action. If you see a cartridge in the carrier, the rifle will be loaded when you close the lever.

To unload a rifle with a loaded magazine, again be sure to keep the muzzle pointed in a safe direction; and keeping your fingers away from the trigger at all times, operate the lever to the fully open and fully closed positions several times to expel any cartridges in the magazine. Do this until no more cartridges are expelled from the action. Play it safe and remove any live cartridges to another location in your shop. 2. The buttstock and mainspring come next.

Unscrew and remove the upper tang screw (#63) from the upper tang (the rearmost of the two screws located behind the hammer), then unscrew and remove the lower tang screw (#62.) The buttstock (#57) is now loose and can be removed from the action (#1) by pulling it straight to the rear. To remove the mainspring on both Winchester and Uberti 1873 Models, open the lever (#89) just slightly and loosen the mainspring-adjustment screw (#53). This is the forward-most screw on the lower tang.

Then unscrew and remove the mainspring screw (#36), which is located directly behind the mainspring-adjustment screw. You can now simply unhook the mainspring from the hammer stirrup and remove it from the action. On the 1876 Model, with the hammer all the way down, use a small brass punch and hammer to drive the base of the mainspring to either side until it becomes disengaged from its seat on the lower tang. Unhook the mainspring from the hammer stirrup and remove it from the action.

Before we do any of this, however, let’s make note of how the mainspring fits into the action. On the 1873 and 1876, during reassembly the hooks at the front of the mainspring must be manually engaged with the ears on the hammer link (#115). (Winchester called this part a "stirrup.") On 1876 models, after engaging the stirrup, the rear of the mainspring is compressed using a pair of spreader-type pliers or

a hardwood wedge until it will slide back into its seat in the lower tang. 3. Remove the sideplate and mortise cover by unscrewing the sideplate screw (#123), then tap the screw head with a plastic screwdriver handle or mallet. This will push the rear of the right sideplate (#73) away from the frame, and then that sideplate can be pulled completely off. Now reach back through the opening with a length of hardwood dowel and tap the inside rear of the left sideplate (#74) to remove it in the same manner.

The loading gate or ladle (#127) located in the right-hand sideplate (Winchester called this part a "spring cover") can be removed by taking out the ladle screw (#128). The "dust cover," in Winchester terminology, is a mortise cover that consists of a sliding plate on top of the receiver that keeps dirt out of the action. Uberti calls this mortise cover a "protection running" (#218).

Unscrew and remove the protection-running screw (#233), then slide the protection running all the way back until it comes off its rails and off the receiver to the rear. Be careful here. A small coil spring and ball detent (#234 and 284) are located under the protection running near the cartridge opening on top of the receiver. On Winchesters, unscrew and remove the mortise-cover screw, then slide the mortise cover all the way back off its rails.

As you’re sliding the cover back, you may have to use a small screwdriver blade to push down the mortise-cover spring as the hole Left top: The Model 1873slower tang assembly, carrier, and lifter are shown here removed. Left bottom: On the 1876 model, the rifle’s lower tang is manufactured as part of the receiver. Another difference between the 1873 and the 1876 is the 1876s mainspring seat on the lower tang. for the screw passes over it. Lift the mortise-cover stop out of the recess in the receiver top.

As you do this, take note of its position for correct reassembly later. Unscrew and remove the mortise-cover spring screw and the mortise-cover spring will lift off the receiver top. 4. We’ll remove and disassemble the links and the lower tang next. Lift the left (#84 and 86) and right (#83 and 85) link assemblies out of the respective sides of the frame. On the 1873 only, unscrew and remove the two trigger-guard screws (#167) from either side of the receiver.

On a Winchester these are called "lower tang screws." Tilt the rear of the triggerguard (#26) down and pull it out of the receiver from the bottom. Winchester calls this part the "lower tang." The 1876slower tang is made as part of the frame and is not removable. Unscrew and remove the lever screw (#101). Lift up slightly on the lifter arm (#90) and pull the finger lever (#89) straight down and out through the bottom of the receiver.

Push up on the carrier block (#7) and remove the lifter arm (#90) down and to the rear until it can removed through the lever opening in the receiver bottom. Now push down on the carrier block (#7) and take it out of the receiver. On the 1876, in order to remove the lever from the action you first have to drive out and remove the lever pin (#107). Be careful to support the off-side of the top of the lever with a steel bench block while the pin is being driven out. 5.

To remove the breechblock and firing pin from the Uberti replica, use

Uberti (Winchester) 1873 and 1876* Lever-Action Rifle (Specifications subject to change without notice) 1 Frame 2 Hammer 3 Barrel 7 Carrier Block 15 Sight 19 Trigger Spring 20 Mainspring 26 Trigger Guard 36 Mainspring Screw 53 Mainspring Adj. Screw 57 Buttstock 58 Buttplate 61 Rear Sight 62 Buttplate Screw 63 Tang Screw 67 Firing Pin Extension 67 Firing Pin (Win.) R Firing Pin Retractor (Win.) a small pin punch and hammer to drive the firing-pin stop (#104) out through the side of the breechblock (#97).

The firing pin (#98), the firingpin extension (#67), and the firingpin spring are now free and can be withdrawn out through the rear of the 68 Forend 72 Cam Lever 73 Sideplate, Right 74 Sideplate, Left 79 Extractor 83 Rear Link, Right 84 Rear Link, Left 85 Front Link, Right 86 Front Link, Left 87 Trigger, Lower Portion 88 Trigger, Upper Portion 89 Lever 90 Lifter Arm 91 Safety Bar 92 Lever Spring, Right 93 Lever Spring, Left 94 Safety Spring 95 Firing Pin Spring receiver.

The breechblock (#97) can be removed by first tilting it all the way down as it is pulled toward the rear.

On the original Winchester rifle, with the bolt assembly forward, use a small pin punch and hammer to drive 96 Magazine Spring 97 Breechblock 98 Firing Pin 99 Trigger Pin 101 Lever Screw 104 Firing Pin Stop 105 Link Pin, Rear 106 Link Pin 107 Lever Pin 108 Extractor Pin 109 Cam Lever Pin 111 Safety Spring Pin 112 Hammer Link Pin 113 Magazine Follower 114 Magazine Tube Plug 115 Hammer Link 118 Magazine Tube 123 Sideplate Screw 124 Lever Spring Screw 127 Ladle 128 Ladle Screw 167 Trigger Guard Screw 178 Hammer Pin 216 Forend Protection 218 Protection Running 224 Protection Running Guide 225 Protection Running Bearing 233 Protection Running Screw 234 Protection Running Spring 237 Lever Hook Spring 238 Lever Hook Pin 240 Trigger & Lever Screw 275 Magazine Tube Bearing 281 Magazine Tube Bearing Pin 283 Forend Protection Screw 284 Protection Running Sphere 542 Lever Hook *1873 parts shown; 1876 parts are similar, but larger. out the front link pin.

Next, pull the firing-pin retractor (R) down and out of the breech bolt. Take note here of the position of the firing-pin retractor for later reassembly. The firing pin is free and can now be pulled out through the rear of the receiver. The breech

bolt can be removed by pulling it to the rear and then tilting it all the way down. 6. Disassembling the hammer-trigger and the parts in the lower tang begins with pushing the safety bar (#91) up while you simultaneously pull and hold the trigger (#87) to the rear. (Remember that Uberti calls the tang a trigger guard.) Now use a pin punch and hammer to drive out the hammer pin (#178), and then lift the hammer (#2) up and out of its recess in the trigger guard (#26).

Unscrew and remove the trigger and lever screw to free the trigger spring (#19) and the safety spring (#94), which can now be lifted out of their recess behind the trigger. Use a pin punch and small hammer to drive out the trigger pin (#99) and then you can lift the trigger (#87) and the trigger upper portion (#88)" which Winchester calls the "sear" out of the trigger guard. The safety bar (#91) is removed by first driving out the safety-spring pin (#111).

The lever lock can be disassembled by first drifting out the lever-hook pin (#238). This will allow the lever hook (#542) to be pulled out from the bottom. The lever-hook spring (#237) is lifted off the top. 7A. To remove the magazine tube and forearm from Uberti rifles, unscrew the magazine-tube plug (#114) located at the front of the magazine tube (#118). The magazine spring (#96) and magazine follower (#113) are then free to be removed out the front of the tube.

Unscrew and remove the two forend-protection (cap) screws (#283)"there’s one on each side of the forend cap’and then slide the forend cap forward slightly. Use a small pin punch and hammer to drift out the magazine-tube bearing pin (#281) from the magazine-tube bearing (#275) and you’ll be able to pull the magazine tube (#118) out toward the front. Once the tube is clear of the forearm wood, tilt the front of the forend wood down and pull the wood forward off the rifle.

The magazine tube is turned toward either side of the rifle one-quarter turn to free the magazinetube bearing from its dovetail cut in the bottom of the barrel. On Winchester rifles, unscrew and remove the magazine-plug screw from the bottom-front of the magazine tube. The magazine cap will now be loose. Insert a screwdriver blade into the slot at its front and give it a quarter turn in either direction. The cap can now be pulled out the front of the magazine tube, along with the magazine spring and follower.

Unscrew and remove the two forend-tip (cap) screws’you will see one on each Left top: This photo shows the Uberti firing pin disassembled from the bolt. The bolt is shown in the correct position for removal from the receiver. Left center: This is the Winchester firing pin disassembled from the bolt. This is an 1876; the ’73 is identical, but slightly smaller. Left bottom: The entire Uberti 1873 magazine tube and forearm is shown here disassembled.

This is identical to the Winchester rifle except for the way the mag cap is secured.

Use care not to let it get away when you slide the cover back. Winchester uses a leaf spring with a screw. side of the forearm cap’and then slide the forearm cap forward slightly. Use a small pin punch and hammer to drift out the magazine-ring pin from the magazine ring, and pull the magazine tube out toward the front. As the mag tube comes clear of the forearm wood, pull the forearm wood down at the front and forward off the rifle.

The magazine tube is now turned toward either side of the rifle a quarter turn, freeing the magazine ring from its dovetail cut in the bottom of the barrel. 7B. The carbines area little different. To remove the magazine tube and forearm on Uberti carbines, unscrew the magazine-tube plug from the front of the magazine tube. The magazine spring and magazine follower are now removed out the front of the tube. Unscrew and remove both band screws from the front band and the forend band.

Remove the magazine tube by pulling it straight out the front. Slide the forend band forward, then the forend can be pulled to the front and off the gun. The front band is rotated 180 degrees and slides forward off the barrel, followed by the forend band. On Winchester 1873 carbines, unscrew and remove the magazine-plug screw from the bottom front of the magazine tube. The magazine-tube cap can be pulled out the front of the magazine tube, along with the magazine spring and follower.

Next, unscrew and remove the front and rear band screws from the front and rear magazine bands. Pull the magazine tube straight out the front and off the weapon. Slide the rear magazine band forward and off the forearm wood, and then the forearm wood is tilted down and pulled off to the front. The forward magazine band is rotated onehalf turn and slides off over the sight base, followed by the rear magazine band.

Winchester 1876 carbines use a front magazine band that’s different from all other Winchester carbines (not illustrated). Unscrew the front band screw and pull off the front magazine band. The rear band is removed just like the 1873 carbine. Once the bands are off, place your thumb over the front of the forearm to contain the magazine cap and spring, and pull down on the front of the forearm wood until the cap and spring pop out.

The magazine cap and spring can be removed out the front of the magazine tube, and the forearm and tube can be removed from the barreled receiver, along with the magazine follower. The magazine tube can now be pulled out either end of the forearm wood. Reassembly of any of these rifles or carbines, whether a Winchester original or a Uberti replica, is a simple matter of reversing the order of the disassembly process. I