Working The Uberti Lightning II Slide-Action Rifle

Colt firearms originally manufactured the Lightning slideaction/pump-action rifle from 1884 until 1904. The original Lightning was known for it’s ultra fast, short-stroke slide action and compact size and was quite a remarkable gun for its day.

Roughly 180,000 Lightning magazine rifles were manufactured in all and were offered in three different sizes including a small-frame chambered for .22 rimfire, a medium-frame for pistol sized rounds like the 44-40, and the large or express-frame size to handle the large, high powered, rimmed rifle cartridges of the late 1800’s.

Those Colt pump-guns were high quality products and were very different from the Winchester pump rifles many of us are so familiar with, but they were made with the kind of great craftsmanship the world had come to expect from the old Colt factory. As those of us who work on the original Lightnings know too well, they like to be operated "vigorously." If you balk or try to operate the action slowly you may encounter problems, especially in the cartridge feeding area.

Aldo Uberti founded the Uberti company that has been making shootable, replica firearms that are familiar to all of us since 1959. In fact, any Cowboy Action shoot you attend today will be heavily populated with Uberti’s replicas of Colt Single Action Army and Photo: A. Uberti, Gardone V. T., Italy Winchester lever guns. Sadly, Aldo passed in 1998. In 2000 a controlling interest in Uberti was acquired by Beretta Holdings.

After hearing rumors about an Uberti slide-action for years, Uberti introduced their version of the Lightning, retaining the original name, in 2006. A "kis sin’ cousin" called the Gold Rush was introduced under the Beretta name. The original Lightnings had some teething problems, not unlike the originals and especially in 357 caliber, they were experiencing jams of various sorts in the feeding system.

Under the careful direction of Giacomo Merlino, long-time Uberti employee and now CEO of that company, these problems have now been addressed. As result of those efforts anew/improved version of the Lightning, called the Lightning II pump-action rifle is currently available. Uberti is offering both rifles and carbines on the mediumsized frame in a package that offers a real taste of the Old West for Cowboy Action shooters, Old West aficionados and lovers of old Colt products alike.

This is an entirely new line, a clean break from traditional lever actions and it’s aimed specifically at the Cowboy Action Shooting market. In some ways the new Lightning has been simplified, such as the removal of the separate dust-cover, but in other ways the design has been made more complicated by the addition of several new safety features. We did put one of the new Lightning II carbines in .357 caliber through its paces and then we had the chance to disassemble the gun and compare it to an original.

We could see right away that they’ve made some subtle changes internally for both dependability and safety while retaining the external appearance and the original Colt locking system. In function tests with an early Beretta Gold Rush .357, which is the same as Uberti’s 2006 Lightning, we found the gun jammed so much that the best function we were able to achieve were to get two shots in a row.

Sometimes the thing would "log-jam", that is stick two rounds under the carrier with another one stuck on top of the carrier,

When the trigger is pulled the transfer bar type safety moves up in the hammer allowing the blow to be transferred into the firing pin. If the hammer falls without the trigger being pulled the firing pin enters the hollow in the hammer so the gun won’t fire. and this all with one partial stroke of the slide, thus mandating a partial disassembly to get the jam clear.

In stark contrast, the Lightning II we just tested fed three full boxes of .357 Magnum Black Hills Cowboy ammo perfectly without giving us so much as a hick-up. Although the rifle will certainly chamber and fire .38 Special ammo, the Uberti factory recommends a steady diet of .357 Magnum, advising against loading .38 Specials into the magazine. The Lightning II Carbines are currently being offered with a blued frame while the rifles are advertised with a color cased frame.

They are available as carbines with a twentyinch round barrel, as short rifles with a twenty-inch octagon barrel and as a full-rifle, sporting a twenty four-inch octagon barrel in either .357 Mag or .45 Colt. Caliber 44/40 is still available on special order. All models come with nicely checkered walnut forends as an aid to a sure grip in fast action-cycling and are equipped with straight-grip walnut butt stocks.

Check out the Lightning II for yourself on-line at www.uberti. com/firearms/lightning.php This step is accomplished by removing the tang screw and then pulling the buttstock to the rear. Disassembly Instructions Be sure the weapon is empty before you handle it. Let’s start by pointing the muzzle in a safe direction as you are picking the rifle up. Hold the rifle with your right hand by grasping the stock at the wrist while at the same time being careful to keep

your finger away from the trigger (#10). Operate and open the action by grasping the forend stock wood (#s705 and 706) with your left hand and slide this vigorously all the way to the rear. This opens the action. Now peer into the chamber at the rear of the barrel to be sure there is not a cartridge in there. You will also want to examine the top of the carrier (#7, this is inside the now opened action), located below and directly in front of the open bolt (#97).

If there is a cartridge present here there may be more cartridges in the magazine tube. You must remove all cartridges in order to render the rifle safe. Leave the rifle with the action open. Even with cartridges present this is a safe position for the moment because the rifle cannot be fired unless the action is closed. Unloading a loaded rifle. Please follow the steps in this first paragraph even if the chamber and carrier were empty to make certain the magazine is also empty.

We will first unload the magazine tube. Leaving the action open, unscrew the knurled magazine cap (#114) from the front of the magazine tube. Remove the magazine spring (#96) out from the front of the magazine tube (#118). Tipping the barrel forward over your workbench, the weight of the cartridges in the magazine should push out the magazine follower (#113) and the remainder of the cartridges should fall out. Lastly, the magazine follower will fall out the front of the tube.

Now, we have to remove that last cartridge from the follower. Be careful that we keep the muzzle pointed in a safe direction and slowly slide the action closed while keeping away from the trigger as this will chamber the cartridge. Beware, the gun is now loaded and ready to fire.

Using the right hand which is holding the stock, use your thumb to grasp and gain control of the hammer while at the same time you pull the trigger, releasing the hammer while you slowly and gently ease the hammer all the way forward with your thumb. Now, operate the slide action again, moving the bolt to the rear and the cartridge you just chambered will be ejected from the rifle. Let’s remove the butt stock and the magazine tube assembly.

Using the appropriate size hollow-ground screwdriver, loosen and remove the tang screw (#63). Now you may pull the buttstock assembly (#57) straight off toward the rear of the rifle. The buttplate (#58) is easily removed from the stock by unscrewing and removing the two buttplate screws (#62), then simply lifting off the buttplate. In removing the magazine for rifles, we’ve already removed the magazine cap (#114), the magazine spring (#96) and magazine follower (#113) out the front of the tube.

Support the barrel in a padded vise and, using an appropriate size cup-tipped pin punch and hammer, drive out the magazine retaining pin (#281) from either side of the magazine ring (#275). Slide the magazine tube (#118) forward, out of the magazine ring and off the rifle. Notice its position for later re-assembly. The magazine ring (#275) can be removed by rotating it 90 degrees in either direction.

To remove the magazine for carbines, we take the magazine cap (#114), the magazine spring #96 and magazine follower (#113) out from the front of the tube. Support the barrel in a padded vise and use an appropriate size cup-tipped pin punch and hammer to drive out the magazine retaining pin (#544) from either side of the magazine band (#80). Using an appropriately-sized, hollow ground screwdriver loosen and remove the band screw (#121). Now slide the band forward, off the barrel and magazine tube and off the rifle.

Pull the magazine tube (#118) straight forward and out of the rifle,

) Note also the knurled magazine cap which is unscrewed not only easing emptying the magazine tube but making unloading far safer. We think this is a really neat innovation! Notice how the entire assembly is moved forward and down off the frame. noticing its position for later re-assembly. Not shown in the parts but illustrated in the photo is the magazine tube adapter, which may now be pulled out the front of the action as shown in the photo. Notice its placement within the action for correct assembly later.

Breaking the action apart. Open the action by moving the forend fully to the rear, leave the hammer cocked while you move the forend forward slightly so that the action stays about half-way open. Remove the two frame screws (#167) from either side of the receiver. These are the rear-most screws on each side of the frame (#1) and are also the largest screws. The trigger guard assembly (#26) may now be withdrawn from the frame by pushing it forward, down and out of the frame. Disassembling the receiver.

Slide the bolt assembly (#97) all the way back to the rear, then use along pin punch and hammer to drift out the locking brace pin (#177) from left to right through the holes provided for this purpose at the rear of the frame. Pull the bolt out the rear of the receiver and lift the locking brace (#170) and its spring (#709) out through the bottom of the receiver.

Remove the loading gate spring screw (#128) and the loading gate spring (#707), and the loading gate (#127) will drop out into the receiver for easy removal. Be sure to make note of the position of the spring for re-assembly. Remove the two ejector screws (#185) (there is one screw on either side of the receiver)

and lift out the ejectors (#249) Left and (#248) Right. Be sure to make a careful note of their positions so the ejectors are re-assembled into their correct sides. For normal maintenance, this is as far into disassembly as you may want to go as disassembly from here on becomes more complex. Disassembling the bolt. Using a correctly-sized pin punch and hammer, drift out the firing pin lever pin (#30). You can now remove the firing pin lever (#180) out the bottom of the bolt (#97).

Make note of the position of this part for later reassembly. The firing pin (#98) and its return spring (#95) may be withdrawn through the rear of the bolt, again, taking note of the position of the slot in the firing pin for re-assembly later. Use a small pin punch and hammer to drift out and remove the extractor pin (#30). The extractor (#790) may be lifted up and off the bolt.

The breech block piston (#726) and its spring (#600) are also retained by a small pin located at the front/side of the bolt although there may be no need to remove these for normal maintenance. Disassembling the trigger guard group. Slide the forearm forward and pull the trigger (#10) while once again controlling the hammer (#2) with your thumb, allowing the hammer to move forward gently. Unscrew and remove the four grip screws (#183) from the forend wood, then lift off the left (#706) and right (#705) forends.

Unscrew and remove the mainspring screw (#36) and lift out the mainspring (#20). Unscrew and remove the trigger spring screw Schematics Available Online A complete set of schematics and parts list for the Uberti Lightning II Slide-Action Rifle and Carbine is available for free download from our website. http://americangunsmith.wordpress.com (#35), then lift out the trigger spring (#19). Using an appropriately sized pin punch and hammer, drift out the hammer pin (#177) and lift out the hammer assembly (#2).

At this juncture, note the hammer block safety (#689) to understand how it fits into the hammer and how it is positioned within the action. This part may be pulled out of its place in the rear of the trigger (#10) and removed. Unscrew and remove the carrier screw (#52). Use caution here as the screw is holding a spring under tension that will come out, followed by a tiny ball bearing. Lift out the carrier spring (#18) and the carrier sphere (ball, #545).

Drift out the carrier pin (#99) from either side of the guard and lift out the carrier (#7). Using an appropriately sized pin punch and hammer, drift out the trigger pin (#99) and remove the trigger (#10). Next, drift out the cartridge stop spring pin (#713.) Once the trigger is out, move the slide rearward and tilt up the rear of the cartridge stop assembly, at the same time pushing the front of the cartridge stop down until it becomes disengaged with the slide.

Remove the cartridge stop from the guard being careful to make note of its positioning within the slide for later re-assembly. Move the slide (#708) forward and out of the guard. Unscrew and remove the cartridge stop spring screw (#712) from the bottom of the cartridge stop and lift off the cartridge stop spring (#711). Further disassembly of the trigger guard is not recommended. Reassemble the rifle by reversing the order of above. AG American Gunsmithing Association