Reader Forum

Marlin 1894 I have a early ‘70’s Marlin 94 in 357 mag serial number 2109XXX. The problem is when levering a cartridge through it binds up in the chamber. I have tried different bullets with a variety of ogive profiles and the problem persists. I have disassembled the gun and found no problems with any of the component parts.

Cycling the action without cartridges seems to lever through just fine with no binding, but the minute you try to feed around through the action it will bind up and take more force than is normally needed. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Joe Powers Mapleton, Maine Unless it is the legendary "Marlin Jam," a cure for which can be found on the Internet by searching for this phrase, what you describe sounds like a cartridge guide problem.

If the rifle is an Mmodel the culprit may be due to the guide screw loosening up or to upper or inner guide damage. If it is a C, CS, or Smodel, all of which have no separate cartridge guide components, make sure the finger lever screw is secure and the carrier has no excessive play. Coat the interior of the receiver with an indicator and use a dummy round to reveal the presence of any drag areas in the action.

If they exist, smooth them up. 1911 Sight Cuts I am having trouble with the sight cuts for popular 1911 pistol makes, such as Bomar, Novak, Kimber, Colt, etc. Is there any information in archives explaining how you know what the manufacturers dimensions are or how to measure to order the correct sight from a supplier catalog? Robert Allaben Bentley, MI Charles Mc Donald If you have the pistol in hand, measure the depth of the dovetail cut, its width top and bottom, and the angle front and rear. Too much trouble?

Contact the manufacturer and ask for dimensions. Alternately, contact the maker of the desired sight to see if they produce a sight for the pistol in question. Winchester Model 1886 I have a Winchester Model 1886 rifle chambered in .45-90. The ejector, spring and collar fly out of the bolt when the lever is operated. I have examined both the bolt and ejector and done an assessment but am at a loss. George Weiland You are missing something in the breech block.

Specifically, the lever/breechblock pin that retains the parts escaping from you. It is either that or the ejector recess for the pin is so badly worn away it allows a disconnect between the pin and parts. The same could be true of the pin itself. Touch-up Blueing I normally use Brownells Oxpho- Blue to do touch-up blueing and have had great results, however, I have a current project gun that I am working on that has a little brass brazing work done on it.

Do you know of any way to darken it up so it will better match the blueing on gun? The Oxpho-Blue does not work here. R. J. We once heard, what could be an old wives tale, about blackening brass with white vinegar. We’ve yet to try it. Check in with the techs at Brownells to see if they’ve something better than an old wives tale. Striking out there, spray some black Rustoleum in a bottle cap and thin it down to a watery consistency and apply to the brass.

Before it is completely dry, swipe it with a clean cloth then allow to dry. A coating should remain on the surface. If it’s not dark enough, repeat building up the coatings until it is. If it’s too dark, apply whatever thinner you used with a cue tip to the surface, wait Blueing a Remington 11 I have Remington 11 in for a blueing job. I’m concerned about doing this as there is a fiber washer in the back of the receiver that is riveted in. Is there some way to remove it and blue the receiver?

I’m also having problems with the front bead that is aluminum and seems to be pressed into the front ramp. Any suggestions on how to blue this gun? David Manney Locke, Stocke and Barrell

The "washer" served as a buffer to help prevent recoil damage to the receiver. Find anew buffer in the aftermarket before drilling out the rivets and install new rivets with the replacement buffer after blueing has been completed. Locked up F. I. E. I have a F. I. E. .22 revolver that I’m working on The hand was broken so I ordered one from Numrich Gun Parts. After reinstalling the base pin the action locked up.

If I pull the pin out from the locking groove the revolver works fine but pushing it back in locks it back up. I tried installing another base pin from and the same thing happens, so I don’t believe it is a bent pin. As an experiment I put the pistol back together turned it upside down and removed the grip frame. When I removed the bolt spring the action works but putting it all back together locked it tighter than Fort Knox. How do I remedy this? Do I need to adjust the hand? Could it be the bolt spring?

The fact it’s an F. I. E. concerns us but the last time we looked the gun was similar enough to a S&W for us to reply as follows. Though we suspect it is a timing problem, which usually involves the hand, the list of other possibilities is too extensive to speculate upon here. Brownells and VSP Publishers (Box 887, Mc Call, Utah 83638) both offer Jerry Kuhnhausen’s Shop Manual on S&W J, K, Land Nframe actions.

It is the same book recommended to this respondent while attending S&W Armorer’s School on more than one occasion, "In case any of you forget what we’ve told you here." In it you’ll find the complete list of possibilities and how to correct them including the proper fitting of anew hand. Rossi Lever Action I have a Rossi Lever Action rifle in my shop for cleaning and routine maintenance. The only markings on it are .38/.357. The rifle looks much like a Winchester ‘94, but I’m sure the internals area bit different.

I need take down procedures but I have nothing in my library. My membership goes back to 2003 and I don’t know if it was covered prior to then. Bill Pratley We’re going to assume you have a Model 92, similar to a Winchester Model 94. The mainspring is coiled and captured in take-down by inserting a straightened paper clip in the hole of the mainspring rod after cocking the hammer. There are ample sources Model 94 disassembly so once the spring is under control you’re pretty much home free the rest of the way.

Just don’t forget to keep the pin in the rod until it goes back into the rifle. 1100 Problem A customer has fired numerous 3-inch shells in his 2 3/4-inch Remington 20 gauge LT-20 Special and wanted me to check it for any damage. After cleaning, I inspected it for damage and could not find anything obvious, however, the bolt and action assembly will not lock open. First, I replaced the Carrier assembly and then the link and action bar. No luck. Then I replaced the entire trigger assembly.

Still no luck and now I’m totally stumped. What do you think the problem could be? Doesn’t the carrier dog lock back the action bar? Or am I wrong about what I’m looking for? Stu Grell It is entirely possible the missuse if ammunition has expanded the receiver. Don’t attempt a fix. The gun must go back to Remington and don’t fail to charge the careless customer for return shipping plus the cost of repair and any applicable taxes.

He may have to pay for anew receiver, which, as you know, is classified as a firearm by BATF. Charles Daly Parts I have a 12 gauge KBI (Charles Daly) Auto Field that needs a bolt handle. I have tried Jack First, Numrich, and several others with no luck. Where might I find a bolt handle? Name Witheld Duane Wolfersperger Try contacting KBI at or AG