Reader Forum

The 4473 is automatically updated and all background information can be viewed directly in the dealer’s LEEP account. formation, schedule a demo with Bryan at or Stevens Problems and Screws I have a second old project gun which has a difficult to pull hammer. The stock and barrel is off the receiver and I’ve found nothing that restricts the hammer movement, except the hammer spring of course. I have applied WD-40 and inspected the parts; everything seems to be in good shape.

The hammer remains difficult to cock back to the point where I have to put one thumb on top of the other to pull it all the way back. Should I remove the mainspring and clip off around of coil? Also, tips on how to do that would be appreciated as I haven’t figured out how to do that without the spring flying across the room when the anchor screw is removed. I don’t recall from any of my experience that coil springs get stiffer with age, but is that possible?

One thing I do need to try before I do take a coil out of the spring is to use an old toothbrush to clean between the coils to make sure that trash from the last 100 years is not constricting the compression of the spring. I do call AG note that when the hammer is in the cocked position that the spring is nearly totally compressed, which is a bit unusual for how springs are normally used. I’ve attached a photo of the project as it is.

Also, do you know when the numbering system for small machine screws was introduced? I need to determine the thread specs of the forend retaining screw for a Model 141 Remington. It looks like it is a 7/32 SAE fine. The one screw (OEM) that I do have does not match any of the numbered system machine screws as it is exactly 0.225 inches in diameter, which would make it a Number 13 which does not exist. So, I am thinking that when this gun was built, the numbering standard was not yet introduced.

Mark Hollensen (BenchMarkPerformanceServices.com) responds. On the Stevens, it could be the mainspring was replaced along the way with an incorrect size, length, or shape spring. I have included a photo of an original mainspring and seat in place in a 1915 Stevens Favorite along with Wisner’s diagram of the various hammer springs used over the years. Since mainsprings are becoming extinct for this rifle it could be someone fashioned one and made it too long, or the coils are too thick, Robert Tusch

etc. The attached photo above should help with that. And as you can see, the mainspring doesn’t have a lot of in-between-the-coils space when the hammer is fully forward or at rest. As far as the screw, I would pick up the Brownell’s Screw Check’r (Brownells #080670001 for U. S., #080670002 for metric) as it will give you exactly the thread pitch of unknown gun and other screws. For $16 it’s well worth the cost when trying to determine screw thread pitch and diameter.

Rust Blue Advice I am going to start rust bluing since I lost my long time friend who was doing all my bluing. As I am reading up on the things I should and shouldn’t do, I am looking for a stopping point in the process. It makes sense to me that after boiling and carding the process could be put on hold until the next time that time allows the process to continue. Is this correct? Any information or reading you can suggest will be greatly appreciated. Kenneth W. Wright Paul Mazan responds.

I have found the instructions for Brownells rust bluing works well. Start with polishing; 320 polish is usually sufficient for Rust Bluing, as the acid in the bluing solution tends to etch the metal. In fact, too high a polish will not allow the acid to "bite" the steel, and will add to the amount of time and the number of coats required to achieve a satisfactory job. De-greasing is the most critical step in the entire bluing process.

A hot cleaning bath is recommended but solvent (TCE #083- 060-128) can work by submerging all parts and scrubbing vigorously. Any film must be removed or the bluing will fail. Degrease the steel wool you’ll use for carding as well. After applying, the rusting process will take anywhere from several hours to as much as 24 hours, depending on heat and humidity. If you live in a cool dry climate, it will take much longer for the rust to form than it will in warm humid climate.

If you live in a dry cool area, you may want to look into using a damp box. Put the rusted parts into your boiling water tank and allow them to boil for 20-30 minutes. The longer the boil, the better conversion from red oxide to black oxide. Once you remove them from the boiling water they will look like they are covered in black velvet. It is critical that the parts dry as fast as possible; for large parts such as barrels, a hair dryer or similar can be used.

Pull a three-inch square from your de-greased steel wool, roll it into a ball, and start rubbing the surface to remove the velvet coating. What will appear underneath is a gun metal gray surface. If you find streaks or spots, work them a little harder, but not so hard that it removes the initial coating. They will blend as you apply more coats. Turn the steel wool frequently to expose a fresh surface. Make sure you remove all the coating or it will prevent the next coat from contacting the metal.

Now apply another coat of solution. Do not apply another coat in an hour like you did on the first application, that’s only for the first coat to ensure proper coverage. Apply each new coat just like the first, only dryer, if possible. Always use a clean swab for each coat and never put a dirty swab into the container; it will contaminate the solution and won’t work. Allow the coat to rust as before, boiling and carding again. Repeat as necessary to achieve a proper bluing.

Harder steel will require more coats than softer steel, so be patient; it will take anywhere from 6 to 20 applications. You will also find that any defects in the first coat will tend to blend with each application. The carding will also become easier with each application. If you had any oil spots or streaks that remained, they will show up as bare metal and will never blend, so make sure you have the part perfectly clean before you start!

Once you have the color level you desire, remove any bore plugs, oil the parts by either dipping in water displacing oil or saturating with gun oil. Set aside and allow to cure for 24 hours. After 24 hours, rub the parts down with clean, soft paper towels. You will probably get a little black residue from rubbing them down, but this is just some of the loose oxide remaining and is nothing to worry about. AG