Working the S&W Top-Break .38 Single Action, 2nd and 3rd Models

Smith & Wesson introduced the .38 Single Action 2nd Model in 1877. Like the 1st Model, which we covered in the March 08 issue, the 2nd Model is a spur-trigger single-action revolver with a roundbutt grip. All Smith & Wesson revolvers of this frame size held five-shots and were chambered for the .38 S&W cartridge. These included the .38 Double Action (see American Gunsmith, April 08) and the .38 Safety Hammerless (August 03 issue) revolvers.

The .38 Single Action 2nd Model was the "parent" of these later models, and introduced many of the features that would become the standard for all Right top: The Smith & Wesson .38 Single Action 3rd Model, also known as the Model of 1891, was the final and most refined model in this series and the first with a removable, bow-shaped guard.

Right bottom: The Mexican Model was a variation of the .38 SA 3rd Model that converted the 1891 back into a spur-trigger single-action similar to the 2nd Model. subsequent S&W top-break models. To open the .38 SA, you first lift upon the T-shaped barrel catch and then tilt the barrel downward. Opening the barrel results in simultaneous, automatic ejection of the cartridges, a feature common to all these top-break revolvers. Compared to the 1st Model, the .38 SA 2nd Model was simplified in many areas.

For one, the extraction system was changed from the early rack-andgear to a far less complicated hookand-pivoting-pawl system mounted on the cam itself. The new system was faster to manufacture, used fewer parts, and was considerably more reliable. Later in the production of the 2nd Model (about 1880), the extractor cam was further simplified to the sliding-bar type.

The extractor shank was also reshaped from square to pentagonal, and the extractor housing on the barrel was shortened into what became its final form. Other changes introduced with the .38 SA 2nd Model included a machined cylinder catch-point on the bottom of the barrel catch, which replaced the separate cylinder catch

38 Single Action is shown here with the barrel opened for loading and unloading. Note the interesting engraving on the backstrap. mounted in the barrel’s top-strap. This change allowed a lower profile to be maintained at the barrel top strap and frame ears. The base pin was now provided with an interrupted thread, mating with a corresponding thread inside the cylinder axis, to help hold the cylinder in place during extraction.

Around the same period, a hardened-steel recoil plate was added to the front of the frame around the firing-pin hole. The most common barrels on the 2nd Model were 3-1/4, 4, and 5 inches, with 6 inches being less common and 8- and 10-inch barrels (introduced about 1888) extremely scarce. This was a good selling revolver, at least in the shorter barrel lengths. From serial #1, made in 1877, the 2nd Model remained in production until 1891. Over that 14-year period, 108,255 .38 SA 2nd Models were manufactured.

In 1891, Smith & Wesson introduced the .38 Single Action, 3rd Model, which is also known as the Model of 1891. The 3rd Model was the last and best design in the .38 Single Action series. The 3rd Model incorporated all the engineering changes and improvements taken from the current Binder Ad (p/u from page 18, AGM-April 08) New Model No. 3 .44 Single Action revolvers, except for the hammer/barrel-catch interlock feature.

Like the much larger New Model No. 3, the .38 SA 3rd Model also used a conventional trigger with a removable, bowshaped trigger guard as well as a rebounding hammer. (Since 1878, a rebounding hammer feature was used in the .32 Single Action and the .44 New Model No. 3 revolvers.) The hammer on the 3rd Model was changed to a comfortable, checkered, oversized spur.

The trigger spring was changed from the small V-type mounted in the rear of the trigger on previous models to a heavy leaf-type spring pinned into the front grip strap of the frame. Also eliminated was the separate cylinder-stop plate used on 1st and 2nd Models. This area was now covered by the removable triggerguard, which held anew stop spring fitted into a dovetail on the inside of the guard.

Aside from lacking the hammer-interlock feature, the .38 SA 3rd Model looks like a scaled-down version of the .44 New Model No. 3. The .38 SA 3rd Models were also sold as combination sets, with extra single-shot barrels in .22, .32, or .38 calibers and in 6-, 8-, and 10-inch lengths. Included with the set would have been over-length, hard-rubber target grips. Target sights were also available for the first time on a .38 frame revolver with the 3rd Model.

The Paine front target blade was standard, but the factory also offered many optional target-sight choices. Also available was anew barrel-catch/target rear sight, adjustable for both windage and elevation. An odd variation on the Smith & Wesson .38 Single Action 3rd Model was the so-called "Mexican Model." This was basically a .38 Single Action 3rd Model fitted with a removable sheath trigger guard to make it into a spur-trigger type.

A special spur trigger and a different hammer with a small, checkered spur came with the package. These changes made the revolver into what appeared to be a "morphed" .38 Single Action 2nd Model. In the Mexican Model, the half-cock notch was omitted; it used

Smith & Wesson .38 Single Action, 2nd & 3rd Model Top-Break Revolver 110 Barrel 111 Frame 112 Cylinder 113 Base Pin 114 Gas Ring 115 Sideplate 116 Trigger Guard, Mexican 117 Trigger Guard, 3rd Model 118 Grip only the rebounding position and full cock notch. For a short time during production, Smith & Wesson also offered a spur-trigger kit consisting of a guard and trigger only. This allowed an owner to convert a 3rd Model into a spurtriggered gun.

A gun converted with this kit would not be a true Mexican Model, since it would still have the wide spur hammer with the half-cock position. The number of true Mexi- 119 Grip 120 Hammer 121 Extractor 122 Extractor Rod 123 Trigger, 3rd Model 124 Trigger, 2nd Model 125 Extractor Cam 126 Barrel Catch 127 Stirrup, 3rd Model can Models produced has been estimated to be around 2,000, with the majority of the revolvers being shipped to Mexico, South America, and Russia. Disassembly Instructions 1.

As always, check first to be sure the revolver is unloaded.

Hold it firmly by its grip with your finger well away from the trigger (#123 or #124) and with the barrel muzzle pointed in a 128 Stirrup, 2nd Model 129 Cylinder Stop 130 Trigger Spring, 3rd Model 131 Trigger Spring, 2nd Model 132 Cylinder Stop Spring 132a Cylinder Stop Spring, 2nd Model 134 Mainspring 135 Hand Spring 136 Barrel Catch Cam Spring 137 Extractor Spring 138 Strain Screw, 3rd Model 139 Barrel Catch Screw 140 Extractor Stud 141 Hammer Stud 142 Hammer Stud Nut, 3rd Model 143 Joint Pivot 143a Joint Pivot Screw 144 Grip Screw 145 Sideplate Screw (long) 146 Sideplate Screw (short) 147 Stop Plate Screw 148 Strain Screw, 2nd Model 149 Trigger Guard Screw, 3rd Model 150 Stop Plate 151 Hand 152 Barrel Catch Cam 154 Front Sight safe direction.

Using your other hand, lift up on the barrel catch (#126), then tilt the revolver barrel all the way down to open the action. This will expose the rear of the cylinder (#112) so you can check to be certain the cylinder is unloaded. If cartridges are present, remove them to a separate location away from the gun. 2. To remove the cylinder, hold up on the barrel catch and at the same time

This dot is intended to be aligned with the serial number stamped on the rear face of the cylinder for reassembly. pull the cylinder to the rear while turning it in a counter-clockwise direction. This allows the cylinder to be withdrawn off the base pin (#113) to the rear. 3. Removing the barrel begins with unscrewing and removing the jointpivot screw (#143a) out from the left side of the frame hinge area (#111). Then use a straight punch to drive the joint pivot (#143) out of the frame toward the right side.

Take notice of the witness mark on the joint pivot and the matching mark on the frame. These marks must be aligned for reassembly. The barrel (#110) is now free and can be lifted straight up and out of its joint in the frame. The extractor cam (#125), located in between the ears of the barrel hinge, is now pulled down and taken out of the barrel. Note the position of the extractor cam for later reassembly. 4.

Remove the grips and the sideplate by unscrewing and removing the grip screw (#144) and lifting the grips (#118 and 119) off the frame. Unscrew and remove the two sideplate screws (#145 and 146) on 2nd Models. On 3rd Models, the hammer stud nut (#142) takes the place of the center or short sideplate screw. Turn the frame over onto its side, holding it by the hinge so the sideplate is facing up over a padded surface. Using a plastic or wooden mallet, strike the grip frame a sharp blow or two.

This should cause the sideplate (#115) to jump up and out of its seat in the frame for removal. Never attempt to pry off the sideplate, as serious damage to its fit with the frame could result. 5. Remove the mainspring and the hammer by using a pair of spreadertype pliers to compress the top of the mainspring (#134) so that the hammer stirrup (#127 or 128) can be rotated forward and disengaged from its seat between the ears at the top end of the mainspring.

Now loosen the strain screw (#138 or 148), which is located in the bottom-front of the front grip strap on the frame. The mainspring is now loose and can be withdrawn from the frame side. With the hammer forward, use a small screwdriver as a lever to rotate the top of the hand (#151) to the rear. Then, while holding the hand to the rear, pull the trigger and also hold it to the rear.

The hammer (#120) is now rotated about halfway to the rear and then carefully worked up and off of the hammer stud (#141) and out of the frame. To avoid scratching the frame at the recoil shield, be careful not to let the hand go until the hammer is out of the gun. 6. Remove the stop plate or the triggerguard on 2nd Models by unscrewing and removing the stop-plate screw (#147). This is the small screw located on the frame bottom, in between the trigger and the hinge joint.

Hold the frame upside down by the grip and while holding the trigger to the rear, strike the frame just behind the hinge joint several sharp blows with a plastic or hardwood mallet. This should cause the stop plate (#150) to be shocked up and out of its seat with the frame. Never attempt to pry off the stop plate, as you could permanently damage its fit in the frame. When the stop plate has jumped loose, remove it along with the cylinder-stop spring (#132), taking note of their positions for reassembly.

On 3rd Models, unscrew and remove the guard screw (#149) and remove the guard (#116 or 117) by pull-

ing down on the front and then sliding it forward and off the frame. The cylinder-stop spring (#132) is captured by a small dovetail slot on the inside-bottom of the guard. This spring slides toward the rear of the guard for removal. 7. To remove the cylinder stop (#129) and the trigger, use a cup-tipped pin punch and a small hammer to drive out the cylinder-stop pin. This is the forward-most of the two pins that pass through the frame from side to side.

Removing the pin will free the cylinder stop, which can be pushed out toward the bottom by using a small punch through its window in the frame. Once again with a properly sized cup-tipped pin punch and hammer, drift out the trigger pin. This pin is the rear-most of the two pins that pass through the frame from side to side. On 2nd Models, the trigger is now free and can be pulled out through the bottom of the frame along with its attached trigger spring (#131).

On 3rd Models, the trigger spring (#130) is mounted on the frame, inside the front grip strap, and is held in place by across-pin running through the grip frame. Once you’ve driven out the trigger-spring pin with an appropriately sized pin punch, the trigger spring can be lifted out of its seat in the frame. 8. To disassemble the Smith & Wesson’s cylinder, insert five fired cartridge cases into the chambers to provide support to the extractor shank.

Grab the extractor rod (#122) tightly in the jaws of a drill press or lathe chuck, and then rotate the cylinder in a counter-clockwise direction to unscrew the extractor post from the extractor (#121). Notice the witness mark on one of the rear facing legs of the extractor star. This dot is aligned with the serial numbers on the cylinder for correct reassembly.

Note: To prevent damage to the extractor spring during reassembly, hold the front 1/4 inch of the extractor rod by its head in the jaws of a drill or lathe chuck. Assemble the spring onto the extractor rod, place the cylinder with the extractor over the rear end of the rod, and push the cylinder forward. You want to compress the extractor spring as much as possible while you’re turning the cylinder in a clockwise direction until the threads have started about one-half turn.

Stop turning every one-half turn and allow the extractor to return by spring tension, then push the cylinder in to recompress the spring and continue tightening in half-turn increments until the rod is hand tight. 9. Disassembly of the hammer starts with rotating the hand (#151) about 180 degrees to the front and pulling it out of the left side of the hammer. Use the correct size pin punch and a small hammer to drift out the pin in the center-front of the hammer. This pin holds in the handspring (#135).

The handspring is now free and will slide out of its recess in the hammer. Remove the hammer stirrup (#127 or 128) by drifting out its pin located at the lower-rear of the hammer. Be sure you take careful note of the position of the stirrup for later reassembly. 10. Disassemble the barrel by unscrewing and removing the barrel-catch screw (#139) from the left side of the barrel’s top-strap. The barrel catch (#126) is now free and can be withdrawn to the rear.

Holding the barrel (#110) in a muzzle-up position, tap the rear of the barrel top-strap on a wooden bench-top. This should cause the barrel-catch cam (#152) and barrel-catch cam spring (#136) to fall out of their recess in the top-strap. As always, take note of their positions for later reassembly. The front sight (on all except 5th Models) is pinned in place in the barrel rib by a tiny cross-pin. After driving out the pin, the sight can be pulled straight up out of the barrel using parallel-jaw pliers.

That completes the disassembly of the Smith & Wesson .38 Single Action, 2nd and 3rd Models. Reassembly is relatively simple by reversing the order of the steps above.