Working the S&W Top-Break .38 Single Action 1st Model

The .38 Single Action of 1876 was Smith & Wesson’s first medium-size top-break revolver. As such, it became the forerunner of an entire series of single-action, doubleaction, and safety hammerless revolvers in this size (and sharing the same grip) that were produced up until 1940. According to the book Smith & Wesson 1857-1945 by Neal & Jinks, the .38 S&W cartridge was designed first, and this revolver was then designed around that cartridge.

First introduced in 1876, the .38 Single Action 1st Model was a spur-trigger revolver with a pleasing round butt grip shape that many shooters found comfortable to use and easy to conceal. To open the revolver, the shooter lifts a T-shaped barrel catch that opens the barrel/frame, allowing the barrel to tilt downward, thus exposing the rear of the cylinder.

This model also became known as the "Baby Russian," because of the similarities between it and its larger relative, the 3rd Model .44 Russian that was manufactured during the same time period. The only obvious differences between the two’other than the size’was the .38"s spur-type trigger and the .44"s removable, bowed trigger guard with a second spur at its rear.

Much like the famous Model No. 3, .44 New Model Russian, the .38 Single Action First Model used a separate cylinder catch that slid into the barrel top strap and a rack-and-gear extraction system with a square extractor shank. Both the .38 and the .44 used a similar long extractor housing under the barrel. Only two barrel lengths were offered on this model3 inch and 4 inch.

Nickel plating or blue finishes were both offered by the factory and the majority of the guns produced were equipped with checkered hardrubber (gutta-percha) grips. Like all the S&W top-break revolvers, this one also featured simultaneous, automatic ejection of the spent cartridge cases upon opening. Manufactured for only two years (1876 and 1877) and serial numbered from 1 to 25,548, the .38 single Action 1st Model was succeeded by the much simplified .38 Single Action, 2nd Model in 1878.

Some distinguishing features of the S&W .38 Single Action, 1st Model include 38 Smith & Wesson First Model, also known as the Baby Russian, was introduced in 1876 along with the famous .38 S&W cartridge. Author photos. its five-shot cylinder .38 S&W centerfire, a spur trigger that’s sheathed in the frame, along extractor housing under the barrel, and a rack-and-gear extraction mechanism with a square extractor shank. The .38 Single Action uses a trigger-actuated cylinder stop.

In other words, the trigger movement affects whether or not the cylinder is locked. When the trigger is toward the rear, the revolver is at full cock. When the trigger is pulled to fire the weapon or when the hammer is all the way down,

the trigger is not in contact with the cylinder stop. Therefore, the stop, which is under spring tension, rises to lock the cylinder. When the hammer is pulled back slightly to the half-cock position, the trigger sear falls into the notch (a low spot) in the hammer, allowing the trigger to move forward. As it does, it contacts the rear of the cylinder stop, causing the stop to rock downward and release the cylinder to rotate. Got that? Trust me, this will all make more sense when you have the revolver in your hand.

Disassembly Instructions 1. Begin your work, as always, by checking to be sure the cylinder is unloaded. To do this, hold the revolver around the grip, keeping your fingers away from the trigger (#124) and pointing the barrel muzzle in a safe direction. Pull the hammer back slightly until you hear one click. That will place the hammer in the loading position. Lift up on the barrel catch (#126) and tilt the barrel all the way down by the muzzle in order to open the action and expose the cylinder chambers.

The small, flat plate sitting over the barrel is the cylinder catch which will come out with the cylinder. Check to be sure no cartridges are present. If cartridges are present, take them out of the cylinder and remove them to a separate location away from your work area. Before we begin the disassembly, let me belabor the obvious: Always be careful to select the right size screwdriver blade when you’re working on these older guns.

Damaged screws area dead giveaway the gun has been in the hands of an untalented amateur. There’s nothing we can do about the untalented amateurs that have worked on the gun in the past, be we don’t want to add to the damage. And before you attempt to remove any screws, to further aid the perfect fit of the blade in the screw slot, take the time to scrape out any accumulated grease, dirt, and rust with a small dental pick. 2. Okay. Now let’s remove the cylinder (#112).

With the barrel still all the way open, loosen the cylinder catch screw (#112B) about three full turns. This screw is located in the barrel topstrap. Next, depress the front portion of the extractor-rack screw catch (#122f), then pull back on the cylinder (#112). The cylinder will pull back toward the rear and off the base pin (#113). Take note that the cylinder catch (#112A) will come out along with the cylinder. Be sure you pay attention to this part so that you will remember how to reinstall it properly.

And when you reassemble the revolver, pay special attention to the relationships of the gear teeth on the extractor rack and the extractor gear. I prefer to assemble the cylinder onto the barrel before the barrel is assembled to the frame. Then I install the gear into the barrel hinge with the large tooth facing straight up. Then finally, I assemble the barrel to the frame. 3. Now we can remove the barrel.

Unscrew and remove the joint-pivot screw (#143a) from the left side of the hinge on the frame using an appropriate-size straight punch. Drive the joint pivot (#143) out toward the right frame side. Be sure you make note of the witness mark on the joint pivot and its corresponding witness mark on the frame. These need to be aligned for reassembly. The barrel (#110) is now free and can be lifted up out of its joint with the frame. Located between the ears of the barrel hinge is the extractor gear

Smith & Wesson .38 Single Action Top-Break First Model Revolver 110 Barrel 111 Frame 111P Grip Pin 112 Cylinder 113 Base Pin 115 Sideplate 118 Grip 119 Grip 120 Hammer (Baby Russian) 121 Extractor 122a Extractor Rack 122b Extractor Spring 122c Extractor Rack Screw 122d Extractor Rack Nut 122f Extractor Rack Screw Catch 122g Extractor Rack Catch Spring 122p Extractor Catch Pin 124 Trigger 124P Trigger Pin 125b Extractor Gear 125C Extractor Gear Bushing 125F Extractor Pawl 125G Extractor Pawl Spring 125P Extractor Pawl Pin 126 Barrel Catch 128 Stirrup 129 Cylinder Stop 129P Cylinder Stop Pin 131 Trigger Spring 133 Cylinder Stop Spring 134 Mainspring 135 Hand Spring 135P Handspring Pin 136 Barrel Catch Cam Spring 139 Barrel Catch Screw 141 Hammer Stud 143 Joint Pivot 143A Joint Pivot Screw 144 Grip Screw 145 Sideplate Screw, Long 146 Sideplate Screw, Center 147 Stop Plate Screw 148 Strain Screw 150 Stop Plate 151 Hand 152 Barrel Catch Cam 154 Front Sight 154P Front Sight Pin

(#125B). This can now be pulled down and out of the barrel. Be sure you take notice of its correct positioning for later reassembly. 4. Removing the grips and the sideplate begins with unscrewing and removing the stock screw (#144) and lifting off the stocks (#118 and 119). If the grips won’t easily come off after you have removed the screw, try this trick: Carefully slip the edge of a single-edged razor blade between the grip and the frame, somewhere down near the butt.

Carefully work the blade in between the metal and the grip until you can twist the blade slightly, using the blade as a lever to gently lift the grip away from the gun. Next unscrew and remove the Smith & Wesson’s two sideplate screws (#145 and 146) (Note: The very early guns, those with serial numbers below #2616, use only one sideplate screw.) Turn the frame over on its side, holding it by the hinge area with sideplate facing up over a wellpadded surface.

Use a plastic or hardwood mallet to strike the grip frame a sharp blow or two. The shock effect produced should cause the sideplate (#115) to loosen and jump up out of its seat in the frame for removal. Never attempt to pry off a sideplate; this can seriously damage the sideplate and very possibly the frame as well’and, of course, will do irreparable damage to your reputation as a professional. 5.

To remove the mainspring and the hammer, use a pair of spreader-type pliers between the rear of the mainspring and the top-inside of the frame to compress the top of the mainspring (#134). This allows the hammer stirrup (#128) to be rotated forward and out of the seat between the ears on the top of the mainspring. Now you can loosen the strain screw (#148), which is located in the bottom-front of the front grip strap on the frame. The mainspring is now free to be removed from the frame side.

Using a small screwdriver as a lever, carefully rotate the top of the hand (#151) toward the rear. While still holding the hand to the rear, pull the trigger (#124) and hold it there. The hammer (#120) can now be pulled about half-way back and then carefully worked upward and off the hammer stud (#141) and removed from the frame. 6. Next, we’ll remove the stop plate and cylinder stop spring. First, unscrew and remove the stop-plate screw (#147).

This is located on the bottom of the frame, between the trigger and the hinge joint. Turn the frame upside-down and hold it by the grip, Its ears can then be disengaged from the hammer stirrup. holding the trigger to the rear. With a plastic or hardwood mallet, strike the frame several sharp blows just behind the hinge joint.

This will cause the stop plate (#150) to be shocked up and out of its seat with the frame. (Never attempt to pry off a stop plate for the same reasons mentioned regarding the removal of the sideplate.) Once the stop plate is loose, remove it and the cylinder-stop spring (#133). Again, be sure you note their positions for reassembly later. 7.

When removing the cylinder stop, the extractor pawl, and the trigger, use cup-tipped pin punches on the round-headed pins to avoid damaging the pins or the surrounding area on the firearm. Drift out the cylinderstop pin (the center pin of the three that passes through the frame), and then push the cylinder stop (#129) out toward the bottom through its window in the frame using a small punch. In the same manner, drift out the trigger pin. This is the rear-most of the three pins that pass through the frame.

The trigger can now be pulled out from the bottom of the frame. Along with it will come the attached trigger

spring (#131). Finally, drift out the extractor-pawl pin (#125P). This is the front pin of the three pins that pass through the frame. The extractor pawl (#125f) and its spring (#125g) are now free to be removed. 8. To disassemble the cylinder, insert five fired cartridge cases into the chambers to support the extractor (#121). Grab the extractor ratchet (#122A) by the flat areas using a suitably sized open-end wrench and rotate the cylinder in a counter-clockwise direction.

This will unscrew the extractor ratchet from the extractor. Take note of the witness mark dot on one of the rear-facing legs of the extractor star. This dot should align with the serial numbers on the cylinder during reassembly. The extractor-rack screw (#122c) and its nut (#122d) are threaded together, but the factory riveted them so they would remain an assembly inside the rack; therefore, further disassembly is not recommended. 9.

Disassembling the hammer begins with rotating the hand (#151) onehalf turn toward the front to disengage its shank from the handspring (#135). Then pull it out of the hammer. Now drift out the pin in the center-front area of the hammer. This pin retains the handspring. The handspring will now slide out of its recess in the hammer. Notice the slot in the spring that the retaining pin fits through. The hammer stirrup (#128) can now be removed by drifting out its pin, located at the lower-rear area of the hammer.

Notice the positioning of the stirrup for reassembly. It’s possible to install the stirrup upside down, which will affect both mainspring and hammer operation. Before we move on, here’s a disassembly/reassembly hint: Before driving out the aforementioned pins, to prevent damaging or breaking the part itself, always provide support to the hammer or other small part by positioning it on a bench block and driving the pin into a hole in the block. 10. All that’s left now is to disassemble the barrel.

Unscrew and remove the barrel-catch screw (#139) located in the left side of the barrel top-strap. The barrel catch (#126) is loose and can be removed to the rear. Hold the barrel (#110) in the muzzle-up position and tap the rear of the barrel topstrap on a wooden benchtop. This will cause the barrel-catch cam (#152) and barrel-catch cam spring (#136) to fall out of their recess in the top-strap. Notice their positions for correct reassembly.

The extractor-rack screw catch (#122f) and screw-catch spring (#122g) are removed by first drifting out the pin (#122p) which passes through the extractor housing under the barrel. To prevent damage to the pin and the barrel, use a small cup-tipped pin punch for this operation. That’s all there is to disassembling the Baby Russian. You reassemble the revolver by simply reversing the order of the above. I