Working the S&W Top Break .32 Single Action Model 1-1/2

Smith & Wesson’s smallest topbreak revolvers were built on what was known as the Model 1-1/2 frame’S&W’s smallest size’ and began in 1878 with the introduction of the .32 Single Action el 1- 1/2. This five-shot revolver in S&W centerfire caliber was b along the general lines of the popular .32 rimfire New Model No. 1-1/2 tip-up revolvers. The .32 centerfire Model 1- 1/2 retained the basic size, appearance, and bird’s head grip of the .32 rimfire on the new hinged frame.

This tiny revolver was the only smallframed, .32-caliber, single-action topbreak revolver ever offered by Smith & Wesson. The .32 Single Action was a unique design in that it "hit the ground running"; that is to say, the initial design was so completely functional that it required no drastic improvements.

By using many of the design features and improvements already gleaned from and incorporated into their larger single action models, Smith & Wesson found no need to make major engineering changes throughout the .32 Single Action’s entire production from 1878 to 1892.

This model used an innovative rebounding hammer, a feature shared with its big brother, the .44 Single ew Model No. 3which, by was also introduced in 1878. mer rebounds back away from the cartridge primer by virtue of a combination of mainspring tension and a carefully designed stirrup arrangement that actually places a reverse tension on the hammer when it’s all the way forward. These guns have no half-cock position, however; the hammer should rebound just enough to place it in a "safety position" after firing.

As with many older firearm designs, the safety position should never be relied on as being truly safe. Accepted practice dictates that the only safe way to carry one of these older revolvers is with the hammer down on any empty chamber. The grip of the .32 Single Action was of the rounded "bird’s head" shape, and the revolvers were offered with checkered hard rubber grips through the majority of production.

The company manufactured almost 100, 000 of these little revolvers with barrel lengths of 3, 3-1/2, 6, 8, and 10 32 Single Action is a pocket-sized, topbreak fiveshot revolver in .32 S&W caliber. It was introduced in 1878 and featured an advanced rebounding-hammer safety system. inches, although the three longer lengths are rare. Like many modern revolvers, the .32 was offered in both nickel-plate or blued finish.

As with almost all S&W revolvers, the hammers were color-case hardened and the barrel catch was blued’re gardless of the gun’s finish. Operational Tip The .32 Single Action uses a triggeractuated cylinder stop. That is, as the trigger moves it affects whether or not the cylinder is locked. When the trigger is toward the rear the revolver is at full cock.

When the trigger is pulled to fire the weapon or when the hammer is all the way down, the trigger is not in contact with the cylinder stop; so the stop, which is under spring tension, rises to lock the cylinder. When

the hammer is pulled back slightly as it is cocked, the trigger sear falls into a valley in the hammer, allowing the trigger to move forward. As it does, it contacts the rear of the cylinder stop, causing the stop to rock downward and release the cylinder to rotate. Disassembly Instructions 1. Before we begin, lets check to be certain the cylinder is unloaded. Lift up on the barrel catch (#25), and tilt the revolver barrel all the way down to open the action.

This exposes the rear of the cylinder for loading and unloading. Remove any cartridges to a safe location before proceeding. 2. No tools are required to remove the cylinder, but the barrel must be opened. Hold the barrel catch so it’s in the up position, and notice the lug on the underside of the barrel catch. This was designed to hold the cylinder from moving backward during extraction. Now, pull the cylinder (#2) toward the rear, while at the same time turning it in a counter-clockwise direction.

The cylinder is secured to the base pin by a large, short, inter- 32 Single Action is loaded. rupted type thread, and this action will enable the cylinder to be withdrawn off the base pin (#5) toward the rear. Disassembly tip: Use the proper size screwdriver blade for the screw you’re removing. Damaged screws area sure sign the gun has been in the hands of an untalented amateur.

Of course, the screwdriver blade will fit the screw slot much better if you will take the time to go into the slots with a dental pick to scrape out any accumulated grease, dirt, and rust before attempting to remove them. 3. To remove the barrel, start with the barrel in the open position, and unscrew and remove the joint pivot screw (#15a) from the left side of the hinge on the frame (#3).

Then use a small hammer and an appropriate straight punch to drive the joint pivot (#15) out of the frame toward the right side. For reassembly later, be sure to make note of the witness mark on the joint pivot and its corresponding witness mark on the right hinge ear of the frame. The two must be aligned for correct assembly. The barrel (#1) is now loose, and can be lifted up and out of its joint with the frame.

The next step is to find the extractor cam assembly (#4) This assembly is located between the ears of the barrel hinge. The extractor cam can now be pulled down and out of the barrel. Make note of the correct positioning of the extractor cam for later reassembly. Reassembly tip: The extractor cam is made up of three parts. If you decide to disassemble the extractor cam, note the direction the spring is facing’t he bowed center always faces down.

If you put it in upside down, the automatic extractor may fail to function properly. 4. The Smith & Wesson’s grips (stocks) and the sideplate are removed by first unscrewing and removing the stock screw (#8). Now carefully lift the stocks (#23 and 24) from the frame. If the grips don’t come off easily after removing the screw, carefully slip the edge of a single-edged razor blade between the grip and the frame, somewhere down near the butt.

Carefully work the blade in between the metal and the grip until you can twist the blade slightly, gently lifting the grip away from the gun. Next, unscrew and remove the two sideplate screws (#10 and 12). Working over a padded surface, turn the

It has rebounded so the firing pin cannot contact the primer, and the trigger has slipped onto a shelf, helping to hold the hammer to the rear. frame over on its side and hold it by the hinge area with the sideplate facing up. Use a plastic mallet to strike the grip frame a sharp blow or two. This shock will cause the sideplate (#7) to jump up and out of its seat in the frame for safe removal. Always use shock; never attempt to pry off a sideplate.

Prying can seriously damage the sideplate and possibly the frame. 5. The next step is the removal of the mainspring and hammer. Using a pair of spreader-type pliers, compress the top of the mainspring (#22) which will allow you to rotate the hammer stirrup (#28) forward and out of its seat between the two ears at the top of the mainspring. Next, use a screwdriver to loosen the strain screw (#13) located in the bottom-front of the front grip strap of the frame.

You can now withdraw the mainspring out from the frame side. Now carefully rotate the top of the hand (#28) to the rear using a small screwdriver as a lever. While you’re holding the hand to the rear, pull the trigger (#26) and hold it to the rear. The hammer (#6) should now be rotated until it is about half-way back. At this point, it can be carefully pulled (and wiggled) upwards, off of its hammer stud (#14) and then taken out of the frame. Note: Some early models did not use a strain screw.

Instead, to tension the mainspring, these used a small cam that fit in between the mainspring and the frame. To remove this cam, the mainspring can be bowed The screw and plate must be removed in order to access the cylinder stop and its spring. toward the rear using spreader-type pliers, and then the cam can be turned 180 degrees and lifted out. 6. Removal of the stop plate and cylinder-stop spring begins with unscrewing and removing the stop-plate screw (#11).

This is located on the frame-bottom, between the trigger and the hinge joint. Hold the frame upside down by the grip area, and while holding the trigger to the rear, strike the frame just behind the hinge joint several sharp blows with a plastic mallet. This shock should cause the stop plate (#27) to jump up out of its seat in the frame. Never attempt to pry off a stop plate, as you can damage its precise fit with the frame. Once the stop plate has come loose,

Smith & Wesson .32 Single Action Top-Break Model No. 1-1/2 .32 S&W Revolver 1 Barrel 2 Cylinder 3 Frame 4 Extractor Cam Assembly 5 Base Pin 6 Hammer 7 Sideplate remove it and the cylinder-stop spring (#18), being sure to note their correct positions for later reassembly. Disassembly tip: The use of "cuptipped" pin punches of the appropriate size for removing these roundhead pins will prevent harming the pins, leaving them in perfect condition for reassembly.

The cup-tipped punch is also less likely to slip off the pin and damage the gun’s finish. 8 Stock Screw 9 Barrel Catch Screw 10 Sideplate Screw (short) 11 Stop Plate Screw 12 Sideplate Screw (long) 13 Strain Screw 14 Hammer Stud 7. Remove the cylinder stop and the trigger next. Using a small hammer and a cup-tipped pin punch to prevent damage to the frame, drift out the cylinder-stop pin.

This pin is not shown on the exploded drawing, but it’s the forward one of the two pins that pass through the frame from side to side. The cylinder stop (#30) is now loose and can be pushed out toward the bottom of the frame.

You can use 15 Joint Pivot 15a Joint Pivot Screw 16 Front Sight 17 Barrel Catch Cam Spring 18 Cylinder Stop Spring 19 Trigger Spring 20 Handspring 21 Extractor Spring 22 Mainspring 23 Stock (left) 24 Stock (right) 25 Barrel Catch 26 Trigger 27 Stop Plate 28 Hammer Stirrup 29 Hand 30 Cylinder Stop 31 Barrel Catch Cam 32 Extractor 33 Extractor Post Not shown: Cylinder Stop Pin Front Sight Pin Hand Spring Pin Stirrup Pin Trigger Pin a small punch to push the cylinder stop down through its window in the frame, under the area where the cylinder rotates.

Drift out the trigger pin (not illustrated) using the small hammer and cup-tipped pin punch. This is the rear one of the two pins that pass through the frame from side to side. With the trigger pin removed, the trigger (#26) is now loose and can be pulled out

through the bottom of the frame along with its attached trigger spring (#19). The trigger spring is simply pressed into place in a slot located at the lower-rear area of the trigger. 8. To disassemble the cylinder, insert five fired cartridge cases into the chambers to provide support to the extractor. Tightly secure the extractor post (#33) in the jaws of a drill press or lathe chuck, then rotate the cylinder in a counter-clockwise direction in order to unscrew the extractor post from the extractor (#32).

Notice the witness mark or dot on one of the rearfacing legs of the extractor star. This dot should be aligned with the serial numbers on the rear of the cylinder for correct reassembly. The extractor springs area tight fit on both the extractor and on the post. When reassembling the extractor/ post/spring, compress the spring by holding the post in about halfway and start to tighten the post only about a turn at a time, stopping to release tension on the spring after each turn.

Do this until the post is finally tight. In this manner, you’ll avoid kinking and ruining the spring while you’re tightening the post. 9. To disassemble the hammer, rotate the hand (#29) 180 degrees, and pull it up and out of the hammer. Reassembly hint: Notice the half-cut on the inside of the hand shaft. This halfcut is actually an assembly tool and can be used later to ease the reassembly of the hand into the hammer.

Use a pin punch and hammer to drift out the pin in the center-front of the hammer that holds in the handspring (#20). The handspring will now slide out of its recess in the hammer. Notice where the dip in the spring fits between the pin holes in the hammer for reassembly later. Before removing the stirrup, be careful to note the correct positioning of the stirrup (#28) for later reassembly. The stirrup can now be removed by drifting out its pin at the rear of the hammer.

Before driving this’or any other pin, for that matter’always provide support for the hammer or other small part by positioning it on a bench block and driving the pin into a hole in the block. This will prevent damaging, bending, or breaking any small part that contains a drift pin. 10. The Smith & Wesson’s barrel is disassembled by first unscrewing and removing the barrel-catch screw (#9) from the left side of the barrel’s topstrap. The barrel catch (#25) is now loose and can be withdrawn to the rear.

By holding the barrel in a muzzle-up position and tapping the rear of the barrel’s top-strap on a wooden block or bench-top, the barrel-catch cam (#31) and barrel-catch cam spring (#17) will fall out of the recess in the top-strap. Be sure to take note of the position of these two parts for correct reassembly. Under normal circumstances, it’s not necessary to remove the base pin. Reassembling the revolver is a simple matter of reversing the order of the procedure detailed above. I