Working the S&W .32 Double-Action Top-Break Models

In the last issue, we looked at Smith & Wesson’s top-break .38 Double Action, which was the forerunner to the "modern" S&W revolver. Introduced in 1880, the fact that over 550,000 were produced testifies to the popularity of the .38 DA. Introduced at the same time, Smith & Wesson’s pocket-sized version, the .32 Double Action, was only slightly less popular, with 327,641 revolvers manufactured in a continuous production run between 1880 and 1919.

As we did last month with the .38, in this issue we’ll look at the changes that took place in the top-break .32 Double Action as it evolved from the 1st Model (1880) to the 5th Model (1909). Then we’ll take one of these revolvers apart and see what makes it tick. Like the .32 Single Action, introduced two years earlier, the .32 Double Action was built on what was then called the Model 1-1/2 frame size, and also like the SA, the DA offered simultaneous, automatic cartridge extraction.

The .32 Double Action was also chambered for the same caliber, .32 Smith & Wesson, that the company had introduced two years earlier with the Single Action, and both revolvers had five-shot cylinders. As its name would indicate, this revolver was double action, but it also had single-action capability. The hammer used a half-cock or safety position, and there was a separate sear in between the hammer and trigger used specifically for the half-cock and single-action functions.

Smith & Wesson was constantly perfecting this popular design, and five separate engineering changes occurred during the .38 DA’s period of manufacture. Those changes form the five distinct Models or types which we have outlined below. The 1st Model used a distinctive straight-sided sideplate, the design of which was found to have weakened the frame.

As a result, on the 2nd Model, which followed very quickly, and on all subsequent models, the sideplate was an irregular shape that allowed more material to remain on the left side of the frame. Both the 1st and 2nd Models made use of an unusual rocker-type cylinder stop, with a separate fixed stop on the trigger. This required a double set of stop notches in the cylinder, as well as a free cut for the fixed stop.

In turn, this dictated very short cylinder flutes 32 Double Action was manufactured from 1880 to 1919 and proved to be a popular backup revolver. The revolver shown here is a 4th Model. which, in my opinion, produced a rather peculiar and unattractive-looking cylinder. Subsequent models, the 3rd through the 5th, used a leaf-type cylinder stop which allowed the use of conventional stop notches and thus longer, more attractive cylinder flutes. Here are the particulars on the five different models: 1st Model.

Manufactured in 1880, with serial numbers from 1 to 30. Features include a sideplate with straight-sides, a rocker-type cylinder stop, short cylinder flutes with double stop notches and free cuts, are-

verse-curved trigger-guard bow, and a front sight pinned into the barrel. It was produced in a 3-inch barrel only. 2nd Model. This model was made from 1880 to 1882, with serial numbers from 31 to 22,172. It features an irregular-shaped sideplate, a rockertype cylinder stop, short cylinder flutes with double stop notches and free cuts on the cylinder, a reversecurved trigger-guard bow, and a pinned front sight. Made with a 3inch barrel only. 3rd Model.

Produced in 1882 and 1883, the 3rd Model has serial numbers from 22,173 to 43,405. This model features a leaf-spring-type cylinder stop, a cylinder with conventional flutes, a single set of stop notches, a reverse-curved trigger-guard bow, and a front sight pinned into the barrel. It came in 3-, 3-1/2-, and 6-inch barrel lengths. 4th Model. Made from 1883 to 1909, with serial numbers from 43,406 to around 283,000 (the exact transitional number from the 4th to the 5th Model is not known).

Features include a leaf-spring-type cylinder stop, a cylinder with conventional flutes and a single set of stop notches, a rounded trigger-guard bow, and a pinned-in front sight. This model was available with a 3-, 3-1/2, 6-, 8-, or 10inch barrel. 5th Model. Produced from 1909 to 1919, the 5th Model has serial numbers ranging from about 283,000 to 327,641.

This final version has a leafspring-type cylinder stop, conventional cylinder flutes, a single set of stop notches, a rounded trigger-guard bow, and a front sight that’s forged as one piece with the barrel. The S&W name and address are stamped on the barrel rib, but patent markings are absent. This model came in 3-, 3-1/2-, and 6inch barrel lengths. The illustration and photos used here are of a .32 Double Action, 4th Model. .32 D.

A. 3rd and 5th Models are nearly identical, while the 1st and 2nd Models differ externally as noted above and internally as will be noted in the disassembly instructions that follow. Disassembly Instructions 1. As always, check first to be sure you’re working with an unloaded gun. Hold the revolver firmly by its grip, keeping your fingers away from the trigger and the barrel muzzle pointed in a safe direction.

Pull back the hammer slightly until you hear one click; this should place the hammer in the half-cock position. Using your other hand, pull up on the barrel catch (#42) and allow the barrel to tilt all the way down to open the action. Doing this will expose the rear of the cylinder (#37). Check to be sure the cylinder is unloaded. If cartridges are present, remove them now and place them in a separate location away from the work area. 2. Next, we’ll remove the cylinder.

While holding the barrel catch in the up position, pull the cylinder toward the rear and at the same time turn the cylinder in a counter-clockwise direction. This will allow the cylinder to be withdrawn toward the rear and off the base pin (#40.) Disassembly tip: Damaged screw heads are the sure sign the gun has been in the hands of an untalented amateur. It will also help the fit of the screwdriver blade in the screw slot if you take the time to go into the screw slots with a dental pick and clean them out. 3.

Now we can remove the barrel (#33). First, unscrew and remove the joint-pivot screw (#52a) from the left side of the frame hinge. Again, use a small dental pick to scrape out any accumulated grease, dirt, and rust from the screw slot before attempting to remove the screw. And use the right size screwdriver blade for the screw

32 DA is shown with its barrel removed from the frame and disassembled. you are removing to avoid damage to the screw head. Using an appropriate sized straight punch, drive out the joint pivot (#52) toward the right side and out of the frame. Notice the witness mark on the joint pivot as well as its corresponding witness mark on the frame. These must be aligned for correct reassembly later. The barrel is now free and can be lifted up and out of its joint with the frame.

Note the extractor cam (#41) which is located up in between the ears of the barrel hinge. You can now pull this assembly down and out of the hinge. Stop here and make note of the extractor cam’s correct position for reassembly. 4. To remove the Smith & Wessson’s grips and sideplate, unscrew and remove the stock (grip) screw (#49) and lift off the stocks (#47 and 48).

If the grips don’t come off easily after removing the screw, try carefully slipping the edge of a singleedged razor blade between the grip and the frame’s omewhere down near the butt. Carefully work the blade in between the metal and the grip until you can twist the blade slightly 32 DA is shown here with its trigger guard and trigger spring removed. The next step before hammer removal is to drive out the pin that holds the rear sear spring and remove the spring. and gently lift the grip away from the gun.

Unscrew and remove the hammerstud nut (#55) located in the center of the sideplate (#39). The hammer stud nut acts as the sideplate screw. Turn the frame over on its side and hold onto it by the hinge, with the sideplate facing up over a well padded surface. Using a plastic or hardwood mallet, hit the grip frame a sharp blow or two. This will cause the sideplate to be shocked and jump up out of its seat in the frame so it can be lifted out.

As you’ve heard me say before, never attempt to pry off a sideplate, as permanent damage to the sideplate and frame can occur. Using a pair of spreader-type pliers between the rear of the mainspring and the inside of the grip frame, compress the top of the mainspring (#60) to a point where the hammer stirrup (#56) can be rotated forward and out of its seat between the ears at the top of the mainspring.

Loosen the strain screw (#50) located in the bottom-front of the front grip strap on the frame to relieve all tension on the mainspring, and then remove the mainspring from the side of the grip frame.

Rocker-Type Cylinder Stop (1st and 2nd Models) Smith & Wesson .32 Double Action Top-Break Revolver 33 Barrel 34 Frame 35 Trigger Guard 36 Rear Sear 37 Cylinder 38 Front Sight 39 Sideplate 40 Base Pin 41 Extractor Cam 42 Barrel Catch 43 Hammer 44 Trigger 5. Now remove the trigger guard and trigger spring. The trigger guard (#35) is itself a spring and is under tension. There are no fastening screws; the guard is held in place by machined tabs at its front and rear which mate with machined mortise cuts in the frame.

As a spring, it spreads out naturally, pushing the tabs into the 45 Extractor Rod 46 Extractor 47 Grip 48 Grip 49 Grip Screw 50 Strain Screw 51 Barrel Catch Screw 52 Joint Pivot 52a Joint Pivot Screw 53 Hammer Stud frame slots. Holding the frame upside down by the grip, tap the rear-lower face of the triggerguard with a plastic or hardwood mallet, this will cause the rear tab of the trigger guard to pop out of the seat in the frame.

Now pull the trigger to the rear and the trigger guard will slide rearward enough to disengage its front tab from the frame. 64 Hand Spring 65 Barrel Catch Cam Spring 66 Trigger Spring 67 Rear Sear Spring 67a Trigger or Sear Pin 67b Stop Plunger (1st & 2nd Mdl.) 67c Stop Spring (1st & 2nd Mdl.) 67d Cylinder Stop (1st & 2nd Mdl.) 67e Stop Pin (1st & 2nd Model) 54 Extractor Stud 55 Hammer Stud Nut 56 Stirrup 58 Barrel Catch Cam 59 Extractor Spring 60 Mainspring 61 Front Sear 62 Hand 63 Cyl.

Stop (3rd – 5th Model) 67f Stirrup Pin 67g Sear Spring Pin Continue by tilting the front of the guard down and pushing forward to remove it completely. The Smith & Wesson’s trigger spring (#66) is now free and can be lifted out of the frame located just forward of the trigger. Be sure you take note of its position on the trigger for later reassembly. ¨

6. Disassembly of the action on 3rd, 4th, and 5th Models requires a small pin punch and hammer to drive out the retaining pin (#67g) for the rear sear spring (#67). Once that’s done, l the trigger to the rear. You mer (#43) up and off its hammer stud (#53) and then out of the frame. At this point, as you release the trigger, make note of the rear sear (#36). Using a cup-tipped pin punch and hammer, drive out the rear sear pin (#67a). This pin is the rear-most of the two large pins that pass through the frame.

Once the pin is out, remove the rear sear, making note of its position for reassembly. Once again, use a cuptipped pin punch and hammer to drift out the trigger pin. This pin (also designated #67a) is the forward-most of the two large pins passing through the frame. Push the trigger assembly up and slightly toward the rear, just enough so that the entire face of the hand (#62) is exposed in the sideplate opening.

Grasp the hand, along with its spring (#64), using a small pair of needle-nosed pliers and pull the assembly straight up and out of the frame. The trigger is now free and can be removed out through the bottom of the frame. The front sear (#61) is also free, and can be removed through the sideplate opening. For 1st and 2nd Models, disassembly is similar, but the trigger is also equipped with a pivoting cylinder stop, spring, and plunger, which become exposed once the trigger is removed (see Step 7 below).

Be sure to make careful note of the relationship of the trigger assembly (#44, #61, and #62) for reassembly later. This is a good time to point out that, before driving pins, in order to prevent damaging or breaking the part in which the pin is installed, it’s a good practice to provide support to the part by positioning it on a bench block and driving the pin into a hole in the block. 7. On 1st and 2nd Models, the cylinder stop (#67d) is mounted in the topcenter of the trigger.

Under the cylinder stop, there’s a small plunger and coil spring which provide upward tension to the stop. This spring and plunger will be under tension during trigger removal, so use care when removing the trigger to ensure these two tiny parts don’t get lost. On the 3rd through 5th Models, the cylinder stop (#63) is held to the frame by across pin (#67e) and the stop can be removed by first carefully drifting out this pin. 8.

To disassemble the cylinder, insert five fired cartridge cases into the chambers to support the extractor shaft. Grab the extractor rod (#45) by the head in the jaws of a drill chuck, then rotate the cylinder in a counter-clockwise direction to unscrew the extractor rod from the extractor (#46.) Take note of the witness mark (dot) on one of the rear-facing legs of the extractor star. This mark should align with the serial numbers on the cylinder for correct reassembly.

To prevent damage to the extractor spring during reassembly, grab the front portion (about 1/4 inch) of the extractor rod by its head in the jaws of a drill chuck. Then assemble the extractor spring onto the extractor rod and place the cylinder with the extractor over the rear end of the rod. Push the cylinder forward, in this way compressing the extractor spring as much as possible, while turning the cylinder in a clockwise direction until the threads have started by about half a turn.

Stop turning about every half-turn and allow the extractor to return by spring tension, then push the cylinder in again to recompress the spring. Continue tightening by one-half-turn increments until you have the rod tight. 9. Removing the barrel is done by unscrewing and removing the barrelcatch screw (#51) from the left side of the barrel top-strap. The barrel catch (#42) is now free to be withdrawn out the rear.

Now hold the barrel (#33) in a muzzle-up position and tap the rear of the top-strap on a wooden block or bench top. The barrel-catch cam (#58) and barrel-catch cam spring (#65) should fall out of their recess in the barrel top-strap. Be sure to make note of their positions for correct reassembly. The front sight on all except 5th Models is pinned in place in the barrel rib by a tiny cross pin. After driving out the pin, the sight can be held with parallel-jaw pliers and then pulled straight up out of the barrel.

That completes the disassembly of the Smith & Wesson. 32 Double Action. Reassembly of the revolver is accomplished by simply reversing the order of the steps above. I