Working the Remington Single-Shot Rolling Block Pistol
The 1870 Pattern, produced originally for the U. S. Navy, became the Model 1871 Army, before giving way to the revolver. These instructions cover both the original Remingtons and the Uberti replicas.
The famous Remington Arms Company, late of Ilion, New York, manufactured single-shot pistols based on the rolling-block pistol action over along period of time, in fact, from 1866 up to about 1909. Early models, known as the Model of 1865, used a spur trigger encased in a sheath with no trigger guard. After 1867, all rolling-block pistols were furnished with a conventional trigger and a bow-type trigger guard. This design, sometimes known as the Model 1867, was modified in 1870 for the U. S.
Navy, and the action became the standard and familiar Model of 1871 Army rolling-block pistol pattern. Remington’s great rolling-block action was known for its strength, but most impressively, it’s well thought of to this day for its utter simplicity and absolute reliability. The largest share of these fine old pistols were furnished in .50-caliber centerfire. After the 1870s, the single-shot pistol was quickly made obsolete by the more rapid-firing revolver.
In later years, Remington made quantities of the 1870 in target-pistol configurations in .22, .25, and .32 rimfire, as well as in .44 S&Wand .50-caliber centerfire in an attempt to find new markets for the single-shot pistol. The basic Remington design includes the Model 1867 Navy, a .50caliber centerfire with a 7-inch round barrel. These were manufactured in unknown quantities from 1870 to 1875.
Also covered are the Model 1871 Army in .50-cal centerfire with an 8-inch round barrel, a plain walnut grip and forearm, a blue finish and color-case-hardened frame. Over 6,000 were manufactured from 1871- 72, of which about 5,000 went to the U. S. Army. The Model 1887 Target was offered in .22 and .25 rimfire, .32- and .50-caliber centerfire, with an 8-inch round barrel, walnut grip and forearm, a blue finish, and a case-hardened frame.
This model was also called the "Plinker Model of 1887." Something like 900 of the Model 1887 pistols were manufactured from 1887 to 1891. Then came the Model 1891 Target in .22 and .25 rimfire and .32 centerfire calibers, with a 10-inch part octagon/part round barrel, smooth walnut grip and forearm, a blue finish, and a case-hardened frame. About 116 of this model were manufactured from 1891 to 1900. ¨ 22 rimfire.
The external size and configuration of the pistol, as well as most of its internal parts, are identical to the Model 1871 U. S. Army pistol in .50-caliber centerfire. Author photos.
Notice here that the gunsmith’s finger is not in the trigger guard. All you have to do is remove two screws to take the grip and the forearm off the pistol. Remington’s final rolling-block pistol was the Model 1901 Target. It was offered in .22 Short and Long, .25 rimfire, .44 S&W Russian centerfire, and according to some historians, in .32 S&W centerfire. The 1901 came equipped with a 10inch part octagon/ part round barrel, checkered walnut grip and forearm, and came in a blued finish.
Around 735 of the Model 1901 pistols were manufactured from 1900 to 1909. 22 rimfire. The part numbers used in this illustration are the same as those used in the accompanying Uberti drawing on the opposite page. Disassembly Instructions In the instructions below, I’m using the more modern Uberti nomenclature and parts numbering.
Note that, although the disassembly of the Remington design is simple, some variations will be encountered between the original Remington rolling-block pistols and the Uberti replica pistols. You may also notice some minor differences between the rimfire and the centerfire versions of both maker’s pistols. 1. Before you do anything, let’s make sure the pistol is unloaded. Grasp the pistol around the wooden grip, being careful to keep your finger away from the trigger at all times. Point the muz-
(Uberti Nomenclature) 1 Frame 2 Hammer 3 Barrel 10 Trigger 11 Grip 15 Sight 20 Main Spring 26 Trigger Guard 36 Main Spring Screw 55 Rear Sight 61 Rear Sight Windage 63 Tang Screw 68 Forend 79 Extractor 95 Firing Pin Spring 98 Firing Pin 99 Trigger Pin zle in a safe direction, holding it by the grip with your right hand.
Now open the action by pulling the hammer (#2) all the way to the rear, and 112 Stirrup Pin 115 Stirrup 167 Trigger Guard Screw 170 Stop Block 172 Forend Cap 173 Firing Pin Roller 174 Sear 175 Sear Spring 176 Extractor Nose 177 Block & Hammer Pin 179 Sear Pin then immediately pull back the breechblock lever all the way back to roll the breech wide open.
Look down into the barrel and check to be certain Remington Rolling Block Pistol 1870 Pattern (Specifications subject to change without notice) 180 Pin Plate 182 Tenon 183 Forend Screw 184 Stopping Extractor 185 Plate Screw Drawing courtesy of A. Uberti. there is not a cartridge in the barrel’s chamber. If there is a cartridge present, reach in and manually remove it by pulling the cartridge straight out of
Once you have the mainspring out of the way, remove one screw and push out two large pins to gut the frame. This gets you the entire breech assembly. the rear of the barrel. Remove all live ammunition to a separate location. 2. To remove the wood, unscrew and remove the tang screw (#63) at the base of the front grip strap. The grip (#11) can be pulled straight down and off the frame. Unscrew and remove the forend screw (#183). The forend (#68) is removed by pulling it forward and down off the barrel. 3.
Removing the trigger guard and trigger group starts with unscrewing and removing the two trigger-guard screws (#167) from the lower left side of the frame. The trigger-guard assembly (#26) can now be pulled straight down and out the bottom of the frame. 4.
To remove the mainspring and major action parts, use your thumb to press the center of the mainspring in toward the inside of the rear frame strap, and hold pressure on the spring while you loosen and then remove the main-spring screw (#36) from the bottom of the spring. The mainspring (#20) is pulled straight out through the bottom. (For ease of reassembly, note as you do this how its top attaches to the hammer stirrup.) Loosen and remove the plate screw (#185) and lift off the pin plate (#180).
Push out the hammer pin (#177-rear) Then the entire trigger group can be disassembled. toward the left side of the frame, and pull the hammer (#2) straight down and directly out through the bottom of the frame. Push out the block pin (#177-front) and then lift the breechblock (#170) out through the top of the frame. The extractor nose (#176) will come off with the breechblock; make note of its position for reassembly. Original .22-rimfire Remington pistols do not use part #176.
On .22rimfire models, remove the extractorretaining screw from the left side of the frame, and slide the extractor (#79) out through the back of the barrel. 5. Disassembling the trigger group and the breechblock begins with drifting out the trigger pin (#99) and sear pin (#179) through the sides of the triggerguard.
The trigger (#10), the sear (#174), and the sear spring (#175) can be lifted up out of the trigger guard. (Take care to notice the relationships of these parts for correct reassembly later.) To remove the firing pin (#98) on some models, drift out the firing-pin retaining pin (#173) or remove the firing-pin screw from the left side of the breechblock. The firing pin will withdraw out toward the rear of the breechblock.
Reassembly As always, reassemble the pistol in the reverse order of above, using the notes and/or photographs you took during disaasembly. I
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