Working the Early Model No. 3 S&W Top-Break .44 Single-Actions

Smith & Wesson’s Model No. 3 was manufactured from 1870 through 1913 in several singleaction configurations and even in a few in double-action versions. The name Model No. 3 refers to the frame size rather than the action type, caliber, or model. In this case, the Model 3 is a .44 or large frame. Model No. 3s were popular revolvers in the Old West.

In single-actions alone, S&W made models called the American, Russian, Schofield, and the New Model No. 3, and to make matters a little more confusing, all of those have sub-categories. Indeed, there are so many configurations, all with mechanical differences, that I’m confining this article to the early singleactions known as the American Models and to the 1st and 2nd Model Russian. That’s because, while they may not look alike, they all have very similar mechanical operation.

Other variations were covered in earlier issues of American Gunsmith, including the Navy Arms Schofield replica (December 99, January 00, and February 00); the S&W Third or socalled New Model Russian and the modern Navy Arms replica (June 2003); the S&W New Model No. 3 (October 03); the S&W .44 Double- Action (May 03); and more recently, the S&W Schofield/U. S. Army Models (January 06).

When it was introduced in 1870, the S&W Model 3what came to be known as the .44 Single Action American 1st Model’became the first in along line of Smith & Wesson topbreak revolvers. Many people today don’t realize that the .44 S&W Model No. 3 was also the first metallic-cartridge revolver to be adopted by the United States Army. The Army purchased 1,000 for field trials in 1870, which was three years before the Colt Single Action Army was introduced.

These Model No. 3s are single-actiononly revolvers, hold six shots, and started out with a square-butt grip shape. The revolver uses a T-shaped barrel latch or catch that is lifted up to unlock the barrel. Then the revolver can be opened for loading by tilting the barrel down like a break-open shotgun. These pistols also had an advanced feature that was not found in any contemporary revolver’s imultaneous, automatic ejection. While the U. S.

Army only purchased 1,000 of these, the S&W .44 was quickly adopted in large quantities in 1871 by Tsarist Russia and other countries. As a result of those large purchases, the design underwent a series of changes which were clear improvements to the original design. Some of the alterations made for the Russian military were drastic, with many being introduced into the commercial production of the American Models as well. Out of these contract sales, two distinct model names for the No. 3 emerged.

The one chambered in .44 S&W caliber and sold on the Ameri- 44 American of 1870 was a truly revolutionary design. This particular gun was owned by a lieutenant in the 6th U. S. Cavalry. Author photos.

can commercial market became known as the "American Model." The other, called the "Russian Model," was at first nearly identical to the American Model, but was chambered for the .44 S&W Russian cartridge. Russian Models were sold to the Russians and other military organizations as well as on the commercial civilian market.

Because of the many variations of these popular revolvers, all built on the basic single-action Model No. 3 frame, there has been considerable confusion among collectors and gunsmiths in exact identification of S&W Model No. 3 models. Serial-number tables can actually add even more confusion. So, in an effort to help the gunsmith understand which model is which and how to tell a Russian from an American, there follows a general description of each revolver along with its unique, distinguishing features.

Features of the .44 Single-Action American, 1st Model 1. Neither .44-caliber S&W American centerfire nor .44 rimfire (rare) has a shoulder in the chamber; chambers are bored straight through. 2. Removable triggerguard with a conventional bow shape, held with two screws. 3. Sliding ratchet pawl under the frame joint, forward of the triggerguard. 4. Geared extraction system with square extractor shank. 5. Hammer-actuated cylinder stop. 6. .078-inch-diameter trigger pin. 7. No barrel catch/hammer-interlock feature. 8.

Flat-tipped trigger. 9. Barrel-joint pivot is a one-piece screw that threads into right joint ear of frame with lock-screw. 10. Square-butt grip shape. 11. Standard American barrel length is 8 inches. 1st Model American uses a German-silver front sight; all other front sights are steel. The .44 American 2nd Model was introduced as an improved Model 3 in 1872.

This model is much like the 1st Model with the changes listed below. (These changes had already occurred first in the Russian military guns.) There was also a so-called "Transition" Model American, which falls somewhere in between the 1st and 2nd Models chronologically. "Transitions" had some of the features of the 2nd Models, gradually blended into the 1st Model-style revolver over a short time period, eventually morphing into full-fledged 2nd Models. Features of the .44 Single-Action American, 2nd Model 5.

The hammer-actuated cylinder stop was retained on 2nd Models. A trigger-actuated stop was introduced on later 2nd Models. 6. Larger diameter (.095 inch) trigger pin than the 1st Model. 8. Barrel catch/hammer with an interlocking feature. 9. Barrel-joint pivot is now two pieces, with a separate lock screw. Features of the .44 Single Action Russian, 1st and 2nd Models First introduced in 1871, the .44 Single Action Russian Model used a square-butt grip shape with a rounded butt and plow-handle grip shape.

The 1st Model Russian with its square butt and 8-inch barrel looks identical to the 2nd Model American except for its caliber. All Russian models, except a very few early 1st Models, are equipped with the barrel catch/hammer interlock feature. The distinguishing features are: 1. The .44 S&W Russian centerfire was standard and .44 rimfire Henry was rare. The .44 Russian chambers are shouldered. 2.

The removable bowed triggerguard is held with two screws. (The 2nd Model Russian used a distinctive "spur" under the rear of the guard.)

3. There is a sliding ratchet pawl under the frame joint, forward of the trigger guard. 4. Geared extraction with square extractor shank. 5. Except for a few 1st Models, a trigger-actuated cylinder stop was used on all Russian models. 6. Larger diameter (.095-inch) trigger pin on all but a few early 1st Models. 7. Trigger has a pointed tip, except for a few early 1st Models. 8. Barrel catch/hammer interlocking feature on all Russian models. 9.

Russian models used a two-piece barrel-joint pivot. 10. 1st Model Russian has a square butt shape like the American. 2nd Model Russian has the rounded, plowhandle butt shape. 11. 1st Model Russian has an 8-inch barrel; The 2nd Model Russian barrel is 7 inches.

Shameless Plug To learn much more about these fascinating old guns, pick up a copy of my book, Smith & Wesson Sixguns of the Old West, copyright Mowbray Publications, 2004 or Smith & Wes- A tab on the barrel catch locked into a notch in the hammer top when the hammer was in the fired position, effectively preventing the barrel catch from being opened. To open the barrel catch, first place the hammer in the half-cock position. son 1857-1945 by Neal and Jinks.

Disassembly Instructions Grasp the revolver around its grip firmly, being careful to point the muzzle in a safe direction. Pull the hammer (#32) back to the first click, lift upon the barrel catch (#8), and tilt the revolver barrel all the way down to open the action. This exposes the rear of the cylinder’s chambers. Check now to be certain the cylinder is not loaded. If you see cartridges, tilt the rear of the cylinder down as you open the barrel, and allow the cartridges to be expelled from the cylinder.

To Remove the Cylinder. With the barrel still all the way open, loosen the cylinder-catch screw (#6) about two full turns. For 1st Models, use the tip of a screwdriver or punch to push up on the rear end of the cylinder catch (#7) so it will release the cylinder. Unscrew and remove the cylinder-pin screw (#5) from the center of the left side of the extractor housing on the barrel. The cylinder assembly can be withdrawn off to the rear.

All other models: After loosening the cylinder-catch screw as above, pull the cylinder slightly to the rear (about 1/4 inch), then push it back forward. The cylinder catch will have No Interlock Russian Interlock moved rearward with the cylinder, and it can now be withdrawn by pulling it out to the rear of the barrel. Note: With all models, when the cylinder is simply being removed for cleaning, if you do not change the position of the barrel, the ratchet gear’s position will not be disturbed.

In this way, the cylinder can be reinstalled by reversing the above procedure. To Disassemble the Cylinder. Insert six fired cartridge cases or dummy cartridges into the chambers. Locate a strong, straight punch that will fit into the hole in the extractor rack (#13) and unscrew the rack, using the punch as a wrench by turning it counterclockwise. The extractor (#15) will push out the rear of the cylinder. The extractor-rack screw (#10) can be unscrewed using a screwdriver.

The extractor spring (#11) and collar (#12) will then come free along with the rack screw. To reassemble the cylinder, reverse the above procedure. To reinstall the cylinder in the weapon, open the barrel all the way, noting the position of the gear teeth on the ratchet gear. To install the cylinder correctly, the forward-most tooth of the ratchet gear must be standing almost straight up, nearly perpendicular to the bore and canted just slightly to the rear.

In this way as the cylinder is reinstalled, the forward tooth on the extractor rack will engage with the forward tooth on the ratchet gear. Holding the extractor into the cylinder with your thumb, slide the cylinder assembly forward all the way back into the rear of the

S&W American Model and Russian 1st and 2nd Model Revolver (Drawing shows a 2nd Model Russian) 1 Frame 2 Barrel 3 Front Sight 4 Front Sight Pin 5 Cylinder Pin Screw 6 Cylinder Catch Screw 7 Cylinder Catch 8 Barrel Catch base pin, until it will not move any farther forward. On 1st Models, once the cylinder is installed correctly, the cylinder-catch screw can be re-tightened. For all other models, the cylinder catch slides into place in the barrel top-strap, and the cylinder-catch screw can be re-tightened.

Removing the Grips, Sideplate, and Mainspring. Unscrew and remove the stock screw (#47) and lift off the grips 9 Barrel Catch Spring 10 Rack Screw 11 Extractor Spring 12 Extractor Collar 13 Extractor Rack 14 Cylinder 15 Extractor 16 Barrel Catch Screw (#45). Unscrew and remove the three sideplate screws (#40 and 41). Turn the frame on its side, holding it by the hinge with the sideplate facing up. Strike the grip frame a sharp blow or two using a plastic or hardwood mallet.

This will cause the sideplate (#39) to jump up out of its seat in the frame for removal. Never attempt to pry off the sideplate as you will cause damage both to it and to the frame.

Using a pair of spreader-type pliers, pry 17 Ratchet Pawl 18 Ratchet Pawl Spring 19 Ratchet (gear) 20 Ratchet Bushing 21 Joint Pivot 21a Joint Pivot Screw 22 Joint Pivot Lock Screw 23 Guard Screw (front) 24 Cylinder Stop Spring 25 Trigger Spring 26 Guard Screw (rear) 27 Strain Screw 28 Cylinder Stop 29 Stop Pin 30 Trigger 31 Trigger Pin 32 Hammer 33 Hammer Stirrup 34 Stirrup Pin 35 Hand 36 Hand Spring (not shown) 37 Hand Spring Pin 38 Mainspring 39 Sideplate 40 Sideplate Screw (center) 41 Sideplate Screw (front/rear) 42 Hammer Stud 43 Triggerguard 44 Stock Pin 45 Stocks (grips) 46 Stock Screw 47 Base Pin down on the top-rear of the mainspring (#38) and disengage it from the hammer stirrup (#33).

Loosen the strain screw (#27), and the mainspring can now be removed out through the side of the grip frame. To Remove the Triggerguard and Hammer. Place the hammer in the half-cock position. Unscrew and remove the two guard screws (#23 and 26). One comes in from the top through

These became distinctly recognizable features of the later Russian models. the frame at the cylinder opening; the other comes in at the rear of the triggerguard. Now the guard (#43) can be pulled down off the frame. Use care, since the trigger spring (#25) and the cylinder-stop spring (#24) are held in place by the guard and its screws. These springs are now loose and can be lifted off. Note: 2nd Model Russians use a large leaf-type trigger spring that is secured into the grip strap with a pin.

Using a small screwdriver as a lever, pull back on the hand (#35) causing it to pivot to the rear. Then, while holding the hand back, rotate the hammer (#32) to a position where it will clear the frame opening. From here, lift it up and off the hammer stud (#42) and out of the frame. The trigger (#30) and cylinder stop (#28) are held in place by pins that pass through the frame from side to side. Using a suitable cup-tipped pin punch and hammer, these pins can now be drifted out from either side of the frame.

To Remove the Barrel. When working with the 1st Model American, unscrew and remove the joint-pivot lock screw (#22) from the left side of the frame joint. Remove the joint pivot (#21) from the left side of the frame joint. On all other models, remove the joint-pivot screw from the right side of the frame, and then remove the joint-pivot lock screw (#22) from the left side of the frame. The joint pivot (#21) can then be pushed out of the frame joint from right to left, using a pin punch.

Hold the ratchet pawl (#17) to the rear with a thumb. The barrel (#2) is now free and can be lifted up out of the frame joint. When the barrel is removed, ease off on the ratchet pawl with your thumb, and it can be removed out through the front of the frame joint along with its spring (#18).

The ratchet or gear (#19) can be removed from the barrel joint by pulling it down. (Make careful note of the gear’s position for reassembly.) The ratchet bushing (#20) will be found at the center of the ratchet gear, and it can be pushed out with finger pressure. The barrel-catch screw (#16) is now unscrewed and removed. This will free the barrel catch (#8) and the barrel-catch spring (#9) for removal out the rear of the barrel top-strap. Disassembling the Hammer.

Rotate the hand (#35) 180 degrees, and pull it out the left side of the hammer. Drift out the handspring pin (#37) located at the center-front of the hammer. You can now slide the handspring (#36) forward out of its recess in the hammer. The hammer stirrup (#33) is removed by drifting out its pin (#34) at the rear of the hammer. Take notice of the position of the stirrup before you remove it for later reassembly.

Note: To prevent damaging the hammer, before driving any pins out, be sure you support the opposite side of the hammer against a steel or brass bench block which has holes in it to allow pins to be driven through. Conclusion With these old S&Ws, you’ll encounter two types of cylinder stops. The early hammer-actuated type will be found on 1st and on many 2nd Model Americans, as well as a very few 1st Model Russian revolvers.

The later trigger-actuated cylinder stop is found on later 2nd Model Americans, as well as on the vast majority of 1st and all 2nd Model Russians. There are differences in the triggers used with both stop types. The later trigger has a shoulder on its front-top, just above the finger piece that actuates the stop. This trigger also uses a more pointed tip on the finger piece. Hammer-actuated-stop models do not have this shoulder on the trigger, and have a more squared tip on the finger piece.

Also note that, on Model No. 3s manufactured after the First Model American, the diameter of the trigger pin (#31) was increased from .078 to .095 inch, and the frame around the trigger pin was made stronger. I