Working Hopkins & Allen Revolvers, Part 3

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In the previous issue, the Hopkins & Allen double action, solid frame XL revolvers were examined and disassembly procedures outlined. The third type of Hopkins & Allen revolver under examination is the hinged frame top break with automatic extractor made from 1900 to about 1906. These were predominantly sold in .32 and .38 caliber, with some .22, .41, and .44 models referred to in contemporary advertising.

I tend to think of these as "Webley-style" revolvers because they resemble the well-known, hinged frame, top break, self-ejecting revolvers made by that famous English gunmaker. One of the most significant benefits of the hinged frame break top design is the simultaneous automatic extraction and ejection of cartridges or empty cases when the Below center/ It is much easier to work on each half individually than when assembled together.

Note that the hinge pin is in two pieces; there is a screw on the left side and a pan-headed, internally threaded smooth pin on the right. Drive out the smooth pin using a punch. revolver is unlatched and opened with the barrel pivoted downward.

This advancement made reloading considerably faster compared to the older single and double action solid frame H&A revolvers which required single extraction and ejection of fired cases, either with the cylinder in place in the frame or with the cylinder removed from the frame. The latter practice incurred the substantial risk of dropping the cylinder or its axis pin in the heat of battle.

Top break revolvers with simultaneous extraction and ejection eliminated that risk and enabled the shooter to quickly unload, reload, and return to shooting. Hopkins & Allen top break revolvers were made from approximately 1906 through the company’s end in 1914-1916, and were sold by distributors and dealers through 1917. Turning to our H&Atop break example, it is chambered in 38 S&W, a ubiquitous cartridge of that era. As with many H&A revolvers, it features a cast iron frame and bright nickel plating.

This particular example exhibits a dark bore but the rifling is sharp with no pitting. Lockwork timing is spot on. Given the condition, it is very tempting to put the bullets from a cylinder full of cartridges downrange but due to the cast frame of

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There is a small, U-shaped, stamped spring in the left half of the heartshaped penetration in the extractor actuator cam that maintains proper positioning when the revolver is assembled. Above center: When disassembling the barreled half of a H&Atop break, first remove the cylinder retainer screw from the top strap. Be sure to control the top strap latch as it is backed by a spring-loaded plunger. this and all other H&A revolvers, temptation was successfully resisted while the revolver was entrusted to me.

It bears repeating: Firing Hopkins & Allen revolvers is not recommended due to the lack of metallurgical and manufacturing process control of the time period and the cast iron nature of the revolver frames.

Caution your customers not to fire their H&A revolvers, even with black power loads, and advise them to instead keep the Below center: The stamped cylinder retainer is removed by driving it out to the rear using a punch or small slotted screwdriver against the short edge which the rear face of the cylinder normally contacts.

Cylinder, barrel section of frame, thin flat spring, cylinder retainer screw, top strap latch cross pin, top strap latch spring and follower assembly, T-shaped top strap latch, and stamped cylinder retainer. Terms used here are descriptive and may not exactly agree with that in H&A literature or parts diagrams, which tend to not be descriptive. guns for the firearm history that they represent.

To disassemble a representative H&Atop break, first remove the grips by unscrewing the grip screw until it clicks, then gently push on the screw with the screwdriver to pop off the opposite grip panel. Use a finger or a punch to pop the opposite grip panel off. Grips on these H&A revolvers were mostly hard rubber or wood, and occasionally ivory, mother of pearl, bone, or stag. The black hard rubber when aged can be very brittle, so care is advised in their removal.

It is NEVER good practice to pry the grip panels off with a thin slotted screwdriver or a knife blade since the grip panels can be damaged from such handling. Gently pushing on a loosened grip screw results in force being applied to the approximate center of the grip panel. The grip panel thus tends not to get cocked and possibly cracked. Gentle force is recommended lest the threaded female grip screw escutcheon be pushed out of the grip plate. In that event, it can be held in

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Pliers with protected soft jaws may be needed for other H&A revolvers. Above center: A brass punch of proper diameter is ideal for pushing out the extractor star. place by a small drop of clear epoxy or cyanoacrylate glue. With the grip panels removed, grasp the lower end of the S-shaped mainspring with needle-nose pliers. Pull it forward and then to either side to unseat it from the frame.

Note that the seat for the upper end of the mainspring in the underside of the hammer will be marked by a slightly shiny notch or groove of sorts. Also note that when working Below center: The extractor and cylinder are matchmarked by indent punch marks under the serial number on the cylinder and one of the extractor star arms. If you look closely, the serial number can be seen on the extractor star.

The hammer must be shifted forward in its slot so that its "tail" clears the rear of the slot. on a hammerless top break example, the mainspring is V-shaped with a heavier-sectioned length welded on and engaging the hammer. The other end is bent into a curve and engages the inside of the backstrap. Pay attention to its orientation as you grasp the curved end of the mainspring to remove it. Disassemble the two halves of the frame by removing the hinge pin which is held in place by a flat head screw.

Back out the screw a bit, then push on the screw head with the screwdriver to push the hinge pin out of the frame. Remove the hinge pin screw completely. Using a small diameter punch that clears the female threads in the hinge pin, drive out the hinge pin. Separate the two halves of the frame, paying attention to the orientation of the extractor actuation cam which is centered between the lower and upper frame halves. When installed, the cam’s "tail" points upward toward the barrel and rearward toward the cylinder.

Remove the cylinder retainer plate’s screw in the topstrap above the forward area of the cylinder. Then tap out the top strap latch retaining pin and withdraw the T-shaped latch, paying attention to the plunger and spring behind it. Remove those as well, using needle-nose pliers or tweezers as required. Placing a slotted screwdriver or very small diameter punch under the topstrap and above the rear end of the cylinder, tap the cylinder re-

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Above center: Driving out the front cross pin frees the trigger guard to pivot down at the front and then forward for removal. The bottom leg of the V-spring is just visible in front of the trigger. Hammer axis screw, hammer/pawl assembly, lower frame, rear cross pin, hammer rebound lever, trigger assembly with hand and cylinder stop with trigger guard immediately below, trigger axis cross pin, cylinder stop V-spring, and front cross pin. tainer plate rearward and out of its slot in the underside of the topstrap.

The cylinder can then be slid off its axle shaft to the rear. There’s a thin leaf spring in a groove on the top of the cylinder axle shaft, which can be dug out using a jeweler’s screwdriver and tweezers. Grasp the extractor shaft between thumb and forefinger. While holding the cylinder assembly with both hands, unscrew the extractor shaft off counter clockwise. If it is stuck fast, use a pliers with padded jaws to minimize damage.

Once removed, withdraw the extractor shaft to the front and the extractor star to the rear. The extractor star on this example is keyed by means of a pentagonal shaft, a punch mark under the last three digits of the serial number appearing on the cylinder, and a punch mark on one arm of the extractor star. The lockwork is removed by unscrewing the hammer axis screw.

With the trigger held back against the rear of the trigger guard, work Punch points to trigger surface upon which the hammer rebound lever bears when assembled. Below center: Trigger assembly and hammer rebound lever reinstalled in the frame. the hammer forward so that its "tail" clears the rear of the hammer slot in the frame.

Then drive out the front trigger guard pin (just behind and below the frame hinge) and tilt the trigger guard down and forward so that the boss at the rear of the trigger guard clears the frame. The trigger itself clears its slot in the trigger guard. Drive out the trigger axis pin and remove the trigger from the bottom of the frame. The hand or pawl on the H&Atop break revolvers is mated to the left rear of the trigger.

The spring and plunger that provide forward force to the hand are located in a recess in the trigger body. When removing the hand from the trig-

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ger, take care to control the spring and plunger. When reinstalling the hand, use a jeweler’s screwdriver to push the spring and plunger into their recess to provide clearance for the base of the hand. Some reassembly tips for H&Atop break revolvers. Reinstall the trigger/hand assembly first. Reinstall the hammer rebound lever, taking care to ensure it is properly positioned, i.e., curving upward. Insert the rear of the trigger guard in its recess in the rear of the trigger guard slot in the frame.

With the V-spring installed in its mortise at the front of the trigger guard, rotate the trigger guard up and into the frame at the front, holding it against spring force and reinstalling the front pin. It may help to use a small spring clamp with protected jaws as a "third hand." Reinstall the hammer by manipulating it forward so that its tail clears the rear of the hammer slot in the frame. Then lower it and install the hammer axis screw.

Apply force to the rear of the hammer with a finger, simulating mainspring force, and cycle the lockwork to ensure that all internal components are in proper position and alignment. Reinstall the cylinder, cylinder keeper, and top strap latch components before joining the two halves of the frame. The cylinder is installed first, followed by the cylinder keeper and its retaining screw, and finally the top strap latch components.

Assemble the two halves of the frame, taking care that the extractor cam is properly aligned with the hook pointing up and to the rear, looking somewhat like a numeral "6" when positioned correctly. Ensure the top end of the mainspring is properly positioned in its mating seat in the underside of the hammer. Far Cocking the hammer and simultaneously pulling the trigger allows the hammer axis hole to be readily aligned with the cross holes in the frame, permitting easy installation of the hammer axis screw.

As mentioned previously, there were hammerless models in H&A line of top break revolvers and these models used a V-shaped mainspring. These mainsprings had a heavier sectioned length welded on and engaging the hammer. The other end is bent into a small radius curve and engages a boss on the inside of the frame backstrap. Pay attention to its orientation as you grasp the curved end of the mainspring to remove it.

Also, given that these revolvers were made for black powder cartridges and have cast iron frames, it is strongly recommended that they NOT be fired, even with black powder loads or similar. Many of these revolvers have considerable play in the cylinder when the hammer is cocked and have relatively large gaps between the face of the cylinder and the forcing cone. Owners should be cautioned to preserve them unfired for the pieces of firearms history that they are and to shoot their more modern handguns.

AG Far The bottom leg is peeking out below frame here. This indicates correct installation of the extractor cam in the hinge.