The “Manurhin Candidate”

There were times when I would only occasionally see a Manurhin revolver come in for service or repairs, and even then, primarily for cleaning and inspection. Over the past few years I have seen them come in more regularly and they all came in for a different functioning issue. Having worked on these over the years, I am familiar with their design and capabilities and have always found them to work rather well.

They are smooth operating revolvers and feel much like a heavy Smith & Wesson revolver in your hand when operating them even though they are different. The earliest Manurhin revolvers were made in Mulhouse, France beginning in 1972 and were produced at that location until 1998. Then, that same year, a company by the name of Chapuis Armes purchased the old machinery and equipment and began producing new Manurhin revolver model configurations.

These revolvers are regarded as being of very high quality and durability, citing that they can outlast a comparable Smith & Wesson revolver firing the same 357 Magnum loads. This was partially based on a displayed MR73 revolver that reportedly survived over 96,000 full power 357 Magnum loads. They boast a frame that is larger than a K-Frame S&W but are dimensionally smaller than the L-Frame. The barrels are hammer forged with button rifling with the same (or similar) twist rate found in the S&W revolver barrels.

The high-polish bluing and smooth functioning actions are what draws people to them. Their style is high quality and they just feel "right" in the hand. The MR73 is available in many different calibers and accessory configurations, including 38 Special, 357 Magnum, 32 Smith & Wesson Long, 22 WMR and 22 LR. They can be purchased with a variety of available barrel lengths, sights, grips, finishes in bright blue or matte, and in Match configurations.

The earliest MR73 revolvers can be distinguished by a sideplate secured by three sideplate screws. Those are described as first generation guns, having been produced between 1972 and 1978. The second generation revolvers were made between 1978 and 1996 and third generation revolvers were made from 1996 to present. When they changed from the Gen 2 to the Gen 3 model, they adopted a two screw sideplate design, eliminating the top sideplate screw completely.

Therefore, to determine if you have a Gen 1 or Gen 2, remove the sideplate and identify which cylinder lever spring (159) it has. The Gen 1 has a wire spring that resembles a large safety pin that fits over and directly onto the hand itself, while the Gen 2 spring is a flat, clipin-place type, with a flat protruding arm spring that presses against the back of the cylinder hand. This second type of lever spring is also present in the current Gen 3 models.

It should be noted here that the Gen 1 type is prone to breakage or binding and is no longer available to purchase for replacement. Any contemplated conversion of the Gen 1 to a Gen 2 and beyond type cylinder lever spring will require anew sideplate for it to work properly. At the time of this writing, I was unable to verify just how many different MR73 models and configurations are/were available on the market, so I am not listing all of them here.

Manurhin also made "Match" model revolvers in the MR73, in 38 Special, 32 S&W Special, and 22 Long Rifle calibers. These match revolvers had a There are many configurations available to choose from, such as varying barrel lengths, finishes, calibers, sights, grips, and it can be had in several "Match" calibers and configurations. variety of target sight configurations, grips, barrel lengths, finishes, and other design upgrades, making them a sought after competition revolver.

In the hand, they work much like the Smith & Wesson revolvers with the cylinder moving in the same direction (counter clockwise) when operated. However, the fire control group is mechanically different and you will see those differences when the sideplate is removed. Serial number prefixes can help identify the MR model and that can be helpful when troubleshooting. For example, the following list of prefixes denotes certain aspects or equipment a MR73 revolver had on it when it left the factory.

MC is the MR73 Silhouette Model, 357 Magnum with 10 3/4" barrel and adjustable match sights. CK is the Silhouette Model in 22 LR with 10" barrel and adjustable match sights. MB has a 9" barrel and adjustable sport sights. MA is the MR73 with 8" and 5 3/4" 38 Special match barrels with adjustable match sights. XA is the 6" 22 LR match barrel model with adjustable match sights. The Ymodel is the 6" 32 S&W Long sport barrel with adjustable sport sights while the Nmodel is the same with adjustable match sights.

Someone with the wrong type of screwdriver attacked these screws! The one under the grip panel is just as bad. The revolver is in the fired or at-rest condition. Look closely at the cylinder lever (hand) and the cylinder lever spring. This was replaced by a more efficient and durable cylinder lever spring when the Gen 2 revolvers appeared around 1978. The following are all chambered in 357 Magnum. The Lmodel with 6" barrel and adjustable sport sights.

The Vwith 5 1/4" with adjustable sights and Dwith fixed sights; Kand Cis the same, respectively, but with a 4" barrel, Hand Bwith 3" barrels, and Gand A with 2 1/2" barrels. Finally, HA models are the MR73 revolvers made by Chapuis Armes. The revolvers denoted as "Match" also came as single action only. If you get one in the shop that has a double action lockup, someone more than likely replaced the hammer.

Conversely, if you get a standard revolver in with single action only lockup, it could have had a match hammer installed or the double action capability removed from that hammer. Just make sure you do some research before working on or function testing MR73 revolvers so you know what type you have in for repair or service. This will assist you while interpreting functioning and safety tests performed.

As mentioned previously, I have had a number of the MR73 revolvers in for repair, service, or inspection over the past few years. A search of my American Gunsmith collection dating back to December 1992 revealed that no article has been written about them. My goal with this article is to familiarize gunsmiths with the MR73 revolver and design, and to point out a few fixes for some of the issues I have encountered in the past.

I have found that the action is not a complicated design, so if you are proficient with Smith & Wesson revolvers, then you will feel pretty much at home working on these. They do have a different mechanism inside of them though. Disassembly I’ll cover specific operating issues and repairs at the end of this article. Begin by releasing and opening the cylinder to make sure there are no live rounds.

With the cylinder still open, look down the barrel to make This gives you an idea as to how the cylinder lever hand and spring tighten up as the trigger is moved rearward, applying more tension on the back of the hand. Often, this type of "baby pin" spring fails—breaks, bends, or becomes lodged in the action. Check here first when the cylinder does not rotate during function testing of the Gen 1 models. sure no bullets or other obstructions are seen or encountered that have become lodged in the barrel.

With that done, begin by removing the grip panels (no associated part number in the accompanying schematic). Close the cylinder and slowly test the lock work in single and double action modes to make sure the timing is correct—cylinder locks up each time the trigger is pulled or hammer is cocked manually. If it does not, mark that chamber with apiece of tape for reference for when you address that issue. Also, now is a good time to test for any "hammer push off".

This is done by cocking the hammer to the rear and pressing it firmly forward to see if it jumps off of the trigger sear engagement. With that testing done, continue disassembly of the revolver by removing the sideplate screws. Only the cylinder retaining screw, called the pivot stop screw (079), is shown in the schematic. There are two screws on the Gen 3 and newer guns and three on the Gen 1 and 2 guns. With the screws removed, open the cylinder (085) and remove it from the frame.

Loosen the trigger return spring set screw (120) located on the inner grip frame area just above the hammer spring adjusting screw (135). Count the number of revolutions it takes to free it from the trigger return spring (157), which is secured in the frame by the trigger return spring pin (119). Loosen the hammer spring adjusting screw (135), again counting the number of revolutions it takes to free it.

Typically, the hammer spring adjusting screw should take 3 1/2 to 4 one-half revolutions to free it from the spring and the trigger return spring set screw (120) should have about the same. If less, then some-

The hammer shown is a Match hammer and does not have the double-action sear attached to it or a place to attach it. A non-Match revolver will have the double-action sear. Also note the new and improved cylinder lever spring (one piece). Converting a Gen 1 to this type of spring can be done as long as you replace the sideplate. The tape was used to mark the cylinder that was found to be out of time during lock testing. This hammer has the double action sear attached.

Looking closely at the trigger return spring (top) you can clearly see how it interacts at the back of the recoil slide. It is easier to remove the recoil slide and trigger by inserting a brass pin punch in between the top of the trigger return spring and the frame, moving it away from the back of the recoil slide. one has moved them to help reduce felt trigger pull. With the springs relieved of all tension, remove the sideplate (107).

Tap on the frame grip area with a non-marring mallet or non-metallic screwdriver handle until the plate lifts up and comes free from the frame. Never pry the sideplate off. With the sideplate now removed, look inside at how the action is assembled and check for any wear or other issues that will need to be inspected and/or addressed. Begin by pulling the cylinder lever spring (159) off the hammer (125) and trigger recoil slide assembly (114).

On the Gen 1 models, the cylinder lever spring (same as 159) will have the wire-type spring attached to the hand and that spring looks much like a large baby safety pin. Remove it now. Back to the Gen 2 and newer models; remove the hand (137.01) by pulling the top of it rearward out of the slot in the frame and lift it off the trigger post. Remove the hammer spring (313) by unhooking it from the hammer stirrup (hammer spring rod, 133) and pulling it out of the slot it fits into on the grip frame.

Pull the cylinder release button head (031) rearward. While holding it back, pull the trigger (143) fully rearward and lift the hammer (125) clear from the frame pin it sits on. The connecting rod has U-shaped cuts on both ends, not centered on the ends. Since the cuts are closer to the top when removing this bar, I replace it in that same position, although it probably doesn’t matter.

The connecting rod is placed between the two roller bearings on the recoil slide when The trigger will be connected by a small bar called the recoil slide connecting rod (112) that seats between the trigger (143) and the recoil slide (114). Lift the trigger, recoil slide connecting rod, and the recoil slide all out at the same time.

It helps to use a brass pin punch to wedge the trigger return spring (157) rearward to clear it off the back of the recoil slide so that you can maneuver the assembly out from the frame. Note the recoil slide has roller bearings on the front and rear of it. The recoil slide connector rod has rounded or U-shaped cuts on both ends that fit in between the two bearings on the recoil slide, while the other end fits over a pin (slide connecting rod pin, 113) inside the trigger cutout.

I have noticed that the recoil slide connecting rod U-shaped cuts on both ends are not centered on the bars. In most cases when removed, the U-shaped slots that are cut closer to the top linear edge of the rod ends are found to be placed upward when installed in the recoil slide and trigger during reassembly. It more than likely doesn’t matter but that is how I typically find the slide connecting rod when opening up a MR73 and so I install the rod in that same position.

The recoil slide assembly has a pin that protrudes through one side of it. This pin fits into a slot at the base of the internal safety (136) when installed. That means the protruding reinstalled. You must remove the cylinder latch assembly before you can remove the internal safety. The angled groove at the bottom of the internal safety is where the protruding pin from the recoil slide is placed when reassembled. Looks much like the transfer bar used in S&W revolvers and provides a similar function.

Far Also note the size of the frame pins used in the MR73. No wonder these revolvers surpass so many of the longevity tests conducted. This is nearly identical to the S&W cylinder assembly, to include the left-hand or reversed threaded ejector rod housing. pin on the recoil slide will go downward and into the slot for it located in the base of the internal safety bar. To remove the cylinder latch (140), pry it out with a small screwdriver tip being mindful of the cylinder latch spring (141) that operates it.

That spring has a 90-degree bend on one end and that bend goes in last when reinstalling it. The other leg is straight and simply goes in first and downward. The 90-degree bend on that spring leg will seat up against the front of the cylinder latch when installed properly. To remove the internal safety (136), begin by removing the cylinder release button head screw (034) and the cylinder release button head (031).

You can now retract the cylinder release button (032) rearwards and lift it upwards and out of the frame. Keep a finger on the cylinder release spring plunger (035) and cylinder release spring (036) so that you don’t lose them. With these out, lift the internal safety out from the frame. To remove the firing pin (frame mounted), drift the small pin in the frame that retains it out from left to right. The firing pin has a return spring, so watch for it during removal.

Some models have the firing pin attached to the hammer nose, so that will require removal of the pin in the hammer—left to right—to remove it. Remove the trigger return spring (157) if needed by making sure the set screw is free and by drifting the small trigger return spring pin (119) out of the frame from left to right. On some MR73 Match revolvers, the cylinder front latch assembly is dovetailed into the bottom of the barrel and retained in place by a single set screw.

This means you can adjust the cylinder front latch position if needed or you can remove it completely by drifting it off of the barrel after backing off the set screw (not shown in the schematic). To remove the standard type cylinder front latch, drift the front latch stopping pin (068) out from left to right, then pull the front latch (084) and front latch spring (067) out. The cylinder (085) disassembly is just like the S&W. Pull the cylinder pivot (075) or yoke out from the face of the cylinder.

Unscrew the ejector rod housing (not numbered in the schematic). It also has a left-hand or reverse thread. Once unscrewed, pull it and the ejector spring bearing washer (095) off the cylinder pin rod (091). Push the cylinder pin rod rearward to move the ejector ratchet (088.01) out, then pull the ejector spring (094) out from the face of the cylinder (085). Pull the ejector/ ratchet out the rear of the cylinder along with the cylinder pin rod and separate the two.

Also found on the cylinder pin rod is the small cylinder pin rod coil spring (093). Note which side of the lump on the cylinder pin rod to reinstall this spring onto. This completes disassembly of the MR73 type revolver. Reassembly is performed by following the above instructions in reverse order. No special techniques are needed other than already listed during the disassembly instructions.

Malfunctions Malfunctions can and do occur with these revolvers and each has different problems and causes; some from normal (or hard) use, others from excessive wear or incorrect reassembly. Knowledge of S&W lock work applies when working the MR73. There are some areas to inspect, along with corrective actions you can take if repairs/adjustments are warranted.

During initial function testing, if you find that the hammer will not lock when cocking it fully rearward during single action testing, check the "Sport & Match" trigger stop screw (144) if present. If it is screwed in too deep, it will prevent the trigger sear from fully engaging with the hammer ledge. This can also prevent the double action from working properly; as the trigger stop will hit the trigger guard frame before the hammer can be released from the trigger sear. Timing.

Often, dirt and debris around the back of the ejector/ratchet area can prevent the hand from making full contact with the ratchet. This can prevent the cylinder from fully turning and locking up with the cylinder latch. Check the cylinder locking notches around the cylinder as they can get gummed up with powder residue and debris as well. Sometimes, the hand deforms one or more of the ratchet notches. You can normally stone these to remove the burrs and get the timing back on track again.

If the revolver is well-worn, anew hand and fitment may be in order. I had one revolver that did not time correctly due to the trigger over-travel screw. Look for obvious issues first before ordering in replacement parts.

Hammer push off. This can occur from heavy use or hard thumbing of the hammer as sometimes seen in the movies. It can also happen if the revolver falls while the hammer is cocked and lands on the hammer. Normally, the hammer spur will be broken off or bent if this occurred. Test by cocking the hammer back fully until it locks. Then, without pulling the trigger, apply forward pressure to the back of the hammer spur.

If the hammer falls (without touching the trigger at all), the sear engagement is rough, rolled over, or damaged. I’ve found that correcting this condition is simplified through use of a Power Custom Series Stoning Jig. Trigger sear clean up was initially done incrementally until it worked in the offending revolver. Over time and by testing, I found that the best way to do it is to remove the trigger from the revolver and clamp it in the stoning jig as shown in the accompanying photo.

I use the S&W K, L, Nbushing, align the "0" with the top line on the jig, and tighten it up. Place the trigger upside down on the jig exactly as shown using the two protruding pins to align it; then clamp it into place. Once secure, raise the stoning angle to 21 clicks and lock it in place. To make sure that the angle is correct, mark the sear bearing edge on As you can see, the hammer was made for single action use only and was not a stripped down double-action capable hammer.

Good to know if you get a non-match revolver in that has this hammer installed (or vice versa). the trigger with a blue or black permanent marker and make a couple of passes with the stone over that area to see if the shiny spot you created has the same bearing area as the sear itself. If not, readjust the angle (going up or down) until you basically wipe the marker off the sear completely with several light passes with the stone. The goal here is to clean up the sear and not take too much off.

Just get clean, sharp lines again. It won’t take much—25 to 30 light passes seems to work much of the time for me. Check the hammer and make sure nothing is damaged there and if so, clean it up carefully! Parts for these revolvers are available but only at a cost most will be reluctant to pay. Anew hammer can be had for around $300 with shipping and sales tax, so less is better when stoning or cleaning up a poorly-performing revolver.

I once quoted anew hammer to a customer and he gave me the "all stop" on repairing that revolver. However, these revolvers have quite a bit of resale value, so a $300 ham- You will have to clamp the trigger to the bushing positioned exactly as shown to get the proper and precise sear engagement angle. Adjust the fixtures angle height if needed (lower or higher) depending on the sear cut you have in front of you when stoning it true again.

So far, the "21 clicks up" adjustments have been repeatable on the MR73’s I have had in the shop, and eliminated the push off. mer and labor to fit it isn’t completely out of the question when looking at potential profit margins. Check the cylinder lever spring (159). I like to call this the hand spring. When installed in the revolver over the hammer and recoil slide assembly, the protruding flat spring "arm" should press up snugly against the back of the hand.

If the spring does not apply tension against the hand, reshape the arm so that it does. Sometimes anew spring will be needed. When in doubt, just replace it. Also, check the hand itself to ensure it is not deformed or damaged on the business end. Burrs and dings on the end that moves the ejector ratchet will cause timing issues. Replace it as well when needed, or weld up the end and re-fit it. A recent repair I had in the shop found an issue that I had not encountered before with a Manurhin.

It was a match revolver but I could not cock the hammer; it felt like it was hitting something inside of the action. The initial test found that when the cylinder was opened and the cylinder release button was pulled to the rear, the hammer would cock and function just fine. Disassembly of the cylinder found that the ejector rod center pin was bent and damaged just below the area of the ejector/ratchet.

The bent rod and damaged area prevented the end of the ejector rod center pin from protruding out the back of the ejector under the small coil spring tension. This would not allow the cylinder to fully lock into place in the frame, nor did it push the cylinder release button/bar rearward far enough, causing the hammer to run into the cylinder release bar inside the action. Once the ejector rod was stoned true and polished, the revolver worked just fine.

Specific Tips One MR73 had a cylinder that only turned when pointing downward, double or single action. Pointing it upward resulted in the cylinder not turning at all. Removal of the side-

Manurhin MR73 Revolver (Speci ications subject to change without notice) 011 Frame 013 Recoil Plate 014 Cyl. rear stop 7135 Cyl. pivot stop 016 Hammer pin 017 Trig. pin 018 Cyl. latch pin 019 Cyl. latch spring pin 020 Grip panel dowel 021 Pin for lanyard 107 Side plate 7153 Side plate screw 031 Cyl. release button 032 Cyl. release button 034 Cyl.

RB screw 035 Cyl. release plunger 036 Cyl. release spring 051 2-1/2 Barrel 357 Mag. 052 3" Barrel 357 Mag. 053 4" Barrel 357 Mag. 054 6" Barrel 357 Mag 070 5 1/8" Barrel 357 Mag 073 8" Barrel 357 Mag 058 3" 4" frontsight 061 Sport-sloped frontsight 063 Barrel attaching pin 064 Frontsight pin 084 Front latch 067 Front latch spring 068 Front latch stopping pin 071 Sport frontsight 075 Cyl. pivot 079 Pivot stop screw 085 357 Mag/38SP Cyl. 037 Ejector locators 088 357/38 ejector 089 3-8" ejector rod 090 2 1/2 ejector rod 091 3-8" Cyl. pin rod 092 2 1/2 Cyl. pin rod 093 Cyl. pin rod spring 094 Ejector spring 095 Ejector spring washer 110 Def trig. assy 111 Trig. 112 Recoil slide connect rod 113 Slide connecting pin 114 Recoil slide 115 Recoil slide rollers 116 Trig. spring roller 117 Pin slide/safety roller 119 Trig. return spring pin 120 Trig. rtn. spring screw 121 Recoil slide assembly 125 Hammer assy* Sport 126 Spur hammer* Sport 127 Sear* 128 Sear/hammer rod pin* 129 Sear spring* 130 Oscillating tiring pin 131 Firing pin axis 132 Hammer spring rod 133 Hammer spring pin 135 Hammer spring screw 136 Internal safety 137 Cyl. lever 139 Cyl. lever pin. 140 Cyl. latch 141 Cyl. latch spring 143 Trigger 144 Trig. stop screw 145 Trig. assy 146 Firing pin spring 157 Trig. return spring 159 Cyl. lever spring 160 Rear sight 166 Rear sight spring 167 Rear sight pin 173 Rear sight 179 Standard grip assy 184 Grip screw 313 Hammer spring 616 32 Match barrel 620 Match sight w/screw 617 Front latch stopping pin 626 Match hammer 630 Match 32 Cyl. 641 Match rear sight 406 Match 38 barrel 411 Match 38 Cyl. 420 Match w/ screw * Double action parts plate found the "old style" cylinder hand spring (baby pin type) still intact, but it had hung up inside of the action during the last reassembly of the revolver.

A little reshaping and cleaning up of that "pin type" spring made the revolver come back to life again. If you get one in that has a broken spring, you will have to make one unless you know of a source for parts. As mentioned earlier, you can covert a Gen 1 to accept the Gen 2 hand spring, but you will have to replace the side plate to do that changeover. Some parts are available (at a cost) for the Gen 1 revolvers and many more are available for Gen 2 and newer.

Again, at a substantial cost depending on which part you need. Hastings Distribution (HastingsDistribution.com, has many parts available along with detailed information. If you find there is end shake on the cylinder, S&W end shake shims can be used; they fit perfectly into the yoke. Other than the above, cleanliness and tight screws are always in order, along with frame pins staying in their proper positions.

These are very durable revolvers, however, a firearm is only as durable as the sum of their collective parts when all are working properly. One small bend in a pin can render the entire revolver useless until repaired. I was able to locate a couple of schematics contained within the pages of Manurhin original Owner’s Manuals. The Gen 1 schematic didn’t list each part individually with an accompanying part naming convention but the schematic for the Gen 2 shown here does.

I used the parts numbers from the Gen 2 schematic when identifying each part listed in this article as a reference point. The parts naming conventions were not the same as those found on S&W revolvers but they are similar in their individual functioning purpose. At least you now have a single source document that describes the Manurhin MR73 Gen 1, 2 and newer models made. AG