The Custom M1911: Fitting An Aftermarket Thumb Safety

Back in the 1960s, Col. Jeff Cooper coined the phrase "consensus pistol" to refer to a modified M1911. The phrase came from the fact that the consensus of 1911 shooters believed that the original GItype pistol needed a speed safety, a good set of sights, and a better trigger. Thus, one of the first modifications to the M1911 that became popular was the extended thumb safety, also called a slide-lock safety.

Both terms are correct, of course, but I tend to call it a thumb safety, since it’s manipulated with the thumb. The extended safety is desirable because it’s easier and faster to work than the GI type. Over the years, what’s considered to be a "speed safety" has grown in size up to the huge "gas-pedal" safeties that are used on some competition guns. Some of these gas pedals have found their way onto carry guns, usually with poor results.

When coupled with a tightly fitted concealment holster, the oversize safety has a tendency to get rubbed into the "off" position. Today we have many good designs available that allow greater speed and certainty in manipulating the safety, without a worry over snagging the safety on clothing or a holster. A number of the new 1911s come with good safety levers straight from the factory, but many are strictly milspec guns with small safety levers and thus there is still a demand for aftermarket safeties.

After growing up with GI guns, I find the modern types are invariably better than the GI types, but there are differences to be considered. Individual shooters may prefer one to the other. Ed Brown, Wilson Combat, Caspian, and others produce safety levers and Brownells offers these and other choices. So let’s look at the techniques and procedure used to fit a thumb safety lever. All will require fitting.

We will look at basic fitting and also tips that should help when something goes Fitting is required, although it is usually minimal. wrong. Installation of the thumb safety requires a good knowledge of the 1911. In fact, you don’t want to work on any part of the safety system on any gun without being sure you know how it works. Fortunately, the 1911’s thumb safety is about as simple as we find on any pistol. First, strip the frame of its internal parts.

Examine the chosen safety, and be certain the pivot pin is an easy fit in the frame. The pivot pin should slip in the frame snugly, but not require undue effort to seat. If the pivot pin is not an easy fit, my first step would be to polish the pivot pin. It is highly recommended to polish parts and never the frame itself. Of course, you may be working with a virgin frame or

In this case, the author is testing the fit of the Ed Brown slide-lock safety. The safety pivots smoothly and the safety lug moves freely. one that’s seen thousands of rounds of ammunition. If polishing the pivot pin of the safety lever does not give the results you want, you may need to deburr the hole in the frame. Of course, occasionally, a safety will drop right in without any need for fitting at all. (But don’t count on it.) Next, be certain the safety lug passes through the frame.

A narrow pillar file can be used on the safety lug if necessary. This operation requires attention to detail and a bit of finesse. With the safety properly filed and fitted, be certain you’re able to press the safety lever home and hard against the frame for a good fit. Often, a safety lever will not fit completely flush against the frame. To cure this problem, you’ll have to use a slightly oversized drill to bevel the edge of the hole in the frame.

The small slot in the safety lug is usually deep enough to allow an easy pivot but sometimes it’s not. If the safety-lug slot is too narrow, you’ll This is the proper procedure. The grips are also specially modified. need to use a jeweler’s file or needle file, as they’re sometimes called. You must also check to be certain the safety extension clears the plunger tube and grips. On some pistols, the safety extension will be found to be out of spec as delivered from the factory.

The 1911 grips support the plunger tube, and you must be aware of the plunger tube when fitting a thumb safety. For example, I recently fitted a striking combination of grips that properly supported the plunger tube but conflicted with the 1911’s safety. The grips were polymer rather than wood, and I was leery of applying too much heat in trimming them. Work-

Alternately, you can order a grip with the proper safety cut already made. Most makers call it an "ambi cut." ing a little bit at a time, however, I managed to trim them to the proper fit. After all, the safety was already on and properly fitted. If, during fitting, the safety contacts the plunger tube or grips, the safety extension can be lightly filed. Many shooters prefer an ambidextrous safety, and this is really the only option for a left-handed shooter.

On the right side of the 1911, the sear and pivot pins extend ever so slightly. These pins must be ground down and made completely flat to allow the use of an ambidextrous safety. These pins must be removed from the frame for the work to be performed. Naturally, stainless-steel pins are the simplest to deal with since they don’t require refinishing. Blued steel can be touched up quite nicely, however, with cold blue.

The right-hand grip panel must be ordered to accommodate an ambidextrous safety or else you’ll have to carefully cut and/or grind a portion of the grip so that the ambidextrous safety’s tab can fit under the right-hand grip panel. The fit should be snug, but However, It’s a simple matter to recut the ends of the pins for an ambidextrous safety installation. still allow the safety tab to freely move.

If you’re installing an ambidextrous safety, be certain the connecting pins fit properly and the two sides fit together properly. (I’ve seen some that didn’t.) When you’ve fitted the safety to the frame, check to be certain that the safety sits flush and fits in the frame properly with proper movement. For final fitting, the frame should be reassembled except for the thumb safety, slide lock, and slide-lock safety.

Don’t attach the safety spring and plunger in the plunger tube just yet, and follow these steps: 1) Cock the hammer. 2) Slide the safety into place. The safety will strike the back of the sear. (continued on page 21)

3) If you’re replacing a safety with an extended type, the original will be a great help as a template for proper fit. The tip of the hooked section of the safety lug must be filed until it just slightly slides behind the sear. Positive engagement is necessary. If the safety requires too much effort to engage, remove it. There will be drag from the sear, evident from the drag marks. Polish the drag marks away lightly and smoothly and you should have proper fit.

Remember, polish lightly when performing this operation; it’s quite easy to polish away too much material and ruin the safety lever. There are a couple of tips that may be an aid in fitting the slide-lock safety. If the plunger tube does not have sufficient tension, you may wish to dimple the sample where the tip of the indent meets the safety. A fairly common complaint is sharp edges on the safety, especially if the pistol is used for concealed carry.

Naturally a stainless steel safety is easier to work with and does not require refinishing. If you’re going to refinish the pistol, don’t overlook the sharp edges of the thumb safety when you’re doing your polishing. Finally, perform a safety check. Cock the hammer, push the safety to the "on" position, and pull the trigger firmly. Now remove your finger from the trigger and push the safety to the "off" position. The hammer should not fall. This is a check for proper safety fit and also for sear engagement.

With the hammer cocked fully to the rear, slowly press the hammer a little further to the rear and listen carefully. If you hear a slight metallic click, then the thumb safety is not fully engaging. The click is the sear slipping. In this case, you’ll probably need to start over with anew thumb safety.

Fitting a thumb safety isn’t rocket science, but it requires care in fitting, and oftentimes it requires a little more experience than what might be evident from the little instruction sheet that comes with the part. ■