Sako P75

Every now and again, something comes into your shop that just catches your eye. This little Sako was one of those guns. It was in for a deep cleaning and a complete inspection as the owner had inherited this little gem and wanted to be sure it was safe to shoot. I checked my extensive library and found absolutely nothing on it. My research quickly found that not much has been written on this rifle, at least not that I was able to locate.

No detailed schematics were found other than one that I was unable to secure permission to reprint here and that was more of a drawing and appeared to be incomplete. It looked much like the gun I had in the shop based on the bolt parts drawings. I was able to run across some patches of information about this rifle. It is well known that Sako firearms are considered to be well-built, sturdy guns worthy of any gun collection.

SAKO, Limited was established as an independent manufacturer in 1921 and located in Riihimäki, Finland, according to information Blue in Book of Gun Values–23rd Edition by S. P. Fjestad. It further states that Sako firearms are currently part of Beretta Holding S.p. A. and imported into the United States by them. Before that, they were imported by Stoeger Indus- 22 Hornet, a bolt-action sporter rifle. tries, Garcia Corporation, and Rymac.

The gun I have in the shop now has "Imported by Stoeger" inscribed on the bottom of the barrel just forward of the forearm. A look at the Sako website revealed Sako firearms are still manufactured in Finland, with an address of Sako Limited, Fi-11101 Riihimäki, Finland. Just note that this particular model is no longer in production. During my research, I read that the P75 (not to be confused with the Sako Model 75, a totally different firearm) was only offered in .22 Hornet beginning in 1975.

The Hornet cartridge is very impressive and can be handloaded with a variety of bullets weighing between 35 and 55 grains with muzzle velocities of 2,600-3,100 feet per second. This cartridge was long and is still considered to be a varmint and target loading. In 1978 the Sako P78 was born and offered in .22 Hornet, .22 Long Rifle, and .22 Magnum. I also found these guns came with sporter stocks, 22.5" barrels, and that the .22LR could be had with a heavy target barrel. 22 Hornet cartridge shown next to the rifle.

This potent little guy can exceed 3,100 feet per second and is a fun and accurate cartridge to reload and shoot. P75 Maintenance To completely disassemble this rifle, open the bolt and visually and physically inspect the chamber to ensure no live rounds are in it. Remove the magazine while the bolt is still open so there is no risk of accidentally loading an unloaded gun. Remove the bolt by pulling it to the rear while depressing the bolt release button located on the left side rear of the action.

With the bolt removed, turn your attention to the action screws. There are two on opposite ends of the one-piece trigger guard housing and these screw heads have wide screw slots, so get the correct screwdriver bit to fill the slot. When I say wide, the screw slots on this gun measured a full 0.090". Too often, these wider slotted screw heads are damaged from using a local hardware store screwdriver or a bit that is just too thin to fit securely into the screw slot.

These two screws come out fairly easily and allow removal of the trigger guard plate as it lifts out of the stock straight up. Turn the rifle back over and lift the barreled action out of the stock. This action had been "lightly" glass bedded and that had not been done very well. I have to assume this was not a factory offering as it was very thin and not enough release agent had been used, making it more difficult to remove the action from the stock.

The release is held in place by a small roll pin and under spring tension by a small horseshoeshaped wire spring. A heavier spring can keep the magazine in place and less prone to falling out when filled with ammunition to its four round capacity. This bridge swings over the back of the trigger/sear bar to prevent the trigger from being pulled to the rear. This trigger can be adjusted for sear engagement/creep and reduced trigger pull weight down to two pounds according to Sako.

Thankfully, it did come out without any damage or breakage. Looking over the barreled action, this gun was fitted with a Williams fully-adjustable rear sight and a hooded ramp front sight. I am not certain if the Williams rear sight came with this gun from the factory, but the front ramp sight and hood appeared to be factory installed. Also on this rifle was a nice Leupold M8 6X scope secured to a two-piece 5/8" dovetailed Put red Loctite on this set screw once dialed in for customer safety and your liability.

Once removed, the bolt can be completely stripped except for removal of the extractor, which is held in place with a spring and detent pin. scope mount bases with Weaver 5/8" dovetailed claw-type mounting rings. The scope base set appears to be original and each base is held in place with two screws. The dovetailed scope base enables the shooter to attach any 5/8" grooved scope ring/mount setup.

Getting back to the working parts of the rifle, it should be noted that this rifle was manufactured with a rear locking bolt lug system. The bolt body does not have locking lugs on the breech end of the bolt, instead, a single locking lug is milled into the bottom of the bolt handle. Some say this is a weakness, however, rimfire guns as well as this Hornet don’t have hammering recoil or pressures that would cause failure concerns when shooting. I certainly wouldn’t want this setup on a belted Magnum though.

A little build up with a weld on that single lug can help re-set headspace should it become excessive as the lug is on the bolt handle and not the bolt body. The single lug on the bolt handle rides in a groove milled out for it in the action underneath the bolt handle. To continue disassembly of the rifle (and only if really needed), remove the magazine well "box" that the magazine fits into by removing the two screws securing it to the underneath of the receiver.

This box has the magazine release button roll pinned in place and a single horseshoe wire spring serves to ensure the magazine locks into place when installed. A second small roll pin is inserted into the arm of the magazine release serving only as a stop to prevent the magazine release button arm from going too far into the magazine box when the magazine is removed. Another item of note is the round pin-type nose on the magazine release arm.

This is a very small detent that protrudes out and secures the magazine when inserted. If the magazine is loose fitting, this can tighten up the fit either by replacing the single wire horseshoe spring with a stiffer one or by replacing the magazine release arm, which may be difficult as parts are scarce for this gun.

You could also build up the magazine latching hole so that the magazine is held tighter in place with the pin nose on the magazine release arm, but again, replacing a magazine that gets messed up may prove impossible due to the lack of available parts, so be careful. Moving on to the rear of the action, the rifle has an adjustable twostage trigger. This can be adjusted to the point of a clean and crisp trigger

and sear breaking when firing down to about two pounds, the lowest recommended setting. I left this rifle at a three-pound pull as it was already crisp and light enough for hunting and target hole punching. If you need to remove the trigger group for a refurbish job, just drift out the single roll pin that secures the group to the receiver.

The trigger group will be under spring tension as the trigger pull coil spring (at the front of the trigger group assembly and under the large locking nut) will be pushing down with tension when removing the roll pin. After the roll pin is removed, carefully pull the trigger group downward and forward so that the rear of the trigger group clears the safety "bridge" arm. With the trigger out, access the trigger pull tension coil spring (front of the trigger group) to clean or replace it.

This larger coil spring is retained by a set screw and large locknut. To adjust, loosen the lock nut and turn the screw to achieve proper or desired spring tension, then tighten the lock nut. A drop of blue Loctite is recommended here. To replace the small coil spring (trigger return spring) located inside a cutout in the back of the trigger itself, drift the small roll pin out that holds the trigger to the trigger group assembly.

This small coil spring is visible behind the trigger and serves as the trigger return spring for both stages of the trigger. It can be replaced while the trigger group is still attached to the receiver. Next, locate a single, small set screw behind the trigger for sear/ creep adjustment. Increase or reduce sear engagement travel and creep by adjusting this screw. I recommend a drop of red Loctite once safely set as this is a critical adjusting screw that could render the rifle unsafe.

Always perform the stock bump tests with the safety on and off along with rapid opening and closing of the bolt functioning tests to ensure the sear engagement isn’t so close that it fires when bumping or jarring the rifle. If that occurs, back that set screw out some until it will not drop the sear with any heavy handling or bumping of the rifle or when the bolt is being cocked. Remember, liability is all on you so proceed like you are turning this gun back over to the most powerful attorney in town.

The Sako factory recommends that sear adjustments should be performed only by factory personnel. This sums up the trigger group and adjustments. Since I could not locate a detailed schematic, I have no way to confirm if this particular trigger group is the same or identical on all P75 models.

I am still not certain if any rimfire rifles were ever produced under the P75 model, so proceed with great caution if you have any Sako model with a different trigger group/ assembly than the one discussed here and pictured in this article. Moving on to the safety, remove the two screws on each side of the safety arm "bridge" and it comes off. The screw on the right side of the safety bridge also holds the safety thumb engagement tab in place as well.

Before removal, look at how this safety operates, It is designed to swivel the "bridge" up and over the back of the trigger/sear bar at the rear of the trigger, preventing the sear from dropping low enough to fire when pulling the trigger. The safety on this rifle is on when the thumb tab is at the rearward position and off when the thumb tab is pushed forward. If the stock still has it, there should beared dot in

The specific measurements of this particular firing pin are listed in this article. The single lug on the bottom of the bolt rides in this groove and locks the bolt into place when the bolt is closed. Also note the safety thumb tab and dovetailed scope base for 5/8" grooved, claw-type scope ring/mounts. the wood that is displayed when the safety thumb tab is pushed forward and disappears when the safety tab is pulled back to the rear.

The other interesting part of this "bridge" type safety is the one lone set screw and locking nut located at the top of the bridge. This set screw can be adjusted downward to decrease the gap between the bridge and the back of the trigger/sear arm so that when the safety is on and the trigger is pulled, the trigger cannot move at all or not very much.

If you get one of these rifles in and the safety will not go on or does not work, most likely the set screw became loose and moved in too far to cover over the trigger/sear arm. You don’t want this to happen because the safety will not work. Adjust it so the safety bridge swivels into place over the rear of the trigger/sear arm, preventing the trigger from having any or limited movement when pulled with the safety on. Use red Loctite to secure the lock nut in place for this set.

Just another critical engagement area that should be inspected and adjusted properly when one comes in for inspection or repairs. To reinstall the safety, replace the bridge and safety tab and then both screws on each side of the action. The last piece to remove from the action is the bolt release button located on the left side rear of the action. The screw that holds it in place serves as the pivot pin as well.

When removing the screw (accessed under the button) be ready to catch the small coil spring as it is under tension. Reinstall in reverse. This completes the barreled action disassembly other than the front and rear sights, which are held in place by two screws each. If you are finished working on the action, reassemble it in reverse order Below and If you own one of these rifles always be on the lookout for a spare! It will have "Hornet" inscribed on the bottom of the magazine floor plate.

Although they are made to hold four rounds, this particular gun would not feed properly when full but worked flawlessly with three cartridges in the magazine. and place it back into the stock. Place the barreled action into the stock first, then turn the rifle over and install the single trigger guard plate and the two action screws. The front action screw is a tad shorter (maybe two threads) than the rear screw.

Turning our attention to the bolt, begin disassembly by rotating the bolt handle a quarter turn downward to take tension off of the mainspring. You will know you did this correctly by the firing pin protruding out from the face of the bolt, provided the firing pin isn’t broken. Using a bench block, tap the large pin located at the far back end of the bolt assembly (I call it the "cocking knob" for lack of an official part name) with a brass punch of like size.

I removed this pin from the bottom and out the top of the cocking knob. When the pin comes out, the brass punch will now be caught under mainspring tension. Hold onto the cocking knob with your thumb covering the back end and withdraw the punch. You will now be able to fully disassemble the bolt. First, the "cocking knob" pulls back and off and then a short mainspring guide rod with a hole drilled through it on the back

end (which had been retained by the pin you just took out) can be removed. That guide rod has the coiltype mainspring attached to it. Slide the mainspring out of the bolt body. Pull the firing pin striker rod/sear out of the bolt body and slip the bolt handle back and off of the bolt body. Note the single bolt locking lug under the bolt handle. This is what locks the bolt up when cocking the rifle. Dump the bolt body backwards and the firing pin should drop out.

Note, due to the absence of a detailed schematic, I was unable to ascertain whether or not there should be a firing pin return spring inside of the bolt body. The absence of one on this bolt leads me to assume that either it was never installed by the factory or it was lost somewhere along the way. Firing Pin Since the firing pin is the most vulnerable and fragile part in the rifle that often needs replacement, I decided to record its measurements in case there’s a need to make a replacement.

The absence of a firing pin return spring tells me this particular gun should never be dry fired without quality snap caps or dummy rounds installed. The nose of the firing pin is vulnerable to breaking, so an old, fired case is not enough. The following measurements listed here are for this firing pin only and should not be assumed identical to dimensions on other Sako P75s, .22 Hornet or otherwise.

The overall length (OAL) is 2.550", diameter of the firing pin body is 0.150", length of firing pin main body to start of 45° step down is 2.200", length of the firing pin tip only from 45° step down forward is 0.290", and diameter of the firing pin tip only is 0.055". These firing pin measurements should help you down the road if you get one in that is either missing or broken and you need to manufacture one.

Firing pin protrusion should not exceed 0.045" when installing in the P75 .22 Hornet or you may get holes in your primers along with the dents. The last item to remove from the bolt body is the extractor (only if needed) and it is held in place by the extractor spring and detent pin. Pull the extractor backwards or away from the bolt face and wiggle it until it comes out of the groove milled for it in the bolt.

Keep a finger over the extractor slot when doing this or you will be on your hands and knees looking for two parts. Replace by pushing the rear of the extractor over the spring and detent pin and push down into its slot. The bolt is then reassembled in reverse order. Begin by inserting the firing pin first, then slide the bolt handle over the bolt body with the lug of the bolt handle facing up with the bottom of the bolt facing up as well. Insert the firing pin striker/sear lug rod into the bolt body.

The sear lug rod fits inside the cutout of the bolt body. Once the sear lug is pushed fully forward into the V-notch of the bolt handle, insert the mainspring and mainspring guide rod into the firing pin striker/sear lug rod body making sure that the hole through the mainspring guide rod is in alignment with the hole in the bolt body. I found that the best way to get the bolt reassembled with the pin is to clamp the bolt body in a vise with protective vice jaws.

Make sure the bolt body pin hole and guide rod holes are in alignment, then slip the cocking knob or rear of bolt over the mainspring/guide rod and push in (under spring pressure) until you are able to align all three holes so that the pin can be reinstalled. I used alike-sized brass punch to get the three holes (bolt body, mainspring guide rod, and rear bolt cocking knob) all in alignment, then tapped the pin into place, drifting it all the way through so that the pin has captured all three holes.

Then, while the bolt body is still in the vice, turn the bolt handle gently quarter of a turn to cock the bolt, putting tension on the mainspring. Do this to be able to reinstall the bolt back into the receiver. Push the bolt into the rear of the receiver and depress the bolt release button on the left side of the action and the bolt will slide back into place. Test to make sure the trigger, sear, and bolt lockup is operating correctly and that the safety is operational.

Perform the bump and jarring test with the bolt cocked, along with the rapid opening and closing of the bolt on your snap cap or dummy round to ensure the gun is safe from accidental discharging. If the firing pin discharges on any of these tests, go back in the gun and adjust until it holds. The magazine can be disassembled by turning the magazine upside down and using a brass pin punch to depress the plunger located in the middle of the magazine floor plate.

Slide the magazine floor plate or base off of the magazine body while holding the plunger down with your pin punch. The spring and follower then come out and the magazine can be cleaned up. I looked for magazines for this rifle and did not find any new ones. A few used ones were listed on websites for sale but they weren’t cheap! The bottom of the magazine on this rifle had "Hornet" inscribed into the floorplate should you need to seek a replacement. I am unsure if they marked any rimfire magazines in this manner.

I had the opportunity to sight this rifle in for my customer and it was a dream to shoot. He had provided some reloads that appeared over 25 years old based on the box they were in. Remarkably, the gun shot a threeshot half-inch group at 100 yards from a sandbag on a bench rest. With very little recoil, this gun is a favorite to take to the range and for kids to shoot. Best of all, you can handload favorite loads for target shooting or hunting to keep shooting costs in check.

This is a nice, unique little gem of a rifle. The only drawbacks to using it often are the absence of available parts. Be gentle with this old bolt action, keep it squeaky clean, and it should last along time to come. There is no doubt room in any collectors safe for this Hornet! AG