Rogers & Spencer Revolver

’ve I had a few of these Civil War era revolvers come into the shop lately, with this one being complete (no missing parts) and it functioned properly. The others were missing the mainspring and other screws and internal parts, and as you well know, parts for these old revolvers are pretty much extinct.

The owner of this revolver brought it to me to remove a cleaning patch that had become lodged in the cylinder and barrel, and he asked that it be completely disassembled for a deep cleaning and to determine if it was an all-numbers matching revolver. I say revolver, because often black powder guns are often referred to as "pistols" and I found this terminology used when doing research on this particular "modified" gun.

Going back to the beginning, it was around 1837 when Amos Rogers and Julius Spencer began making farm machinery as their business, reportedly making guns as a sideline. Based on C. S. Pettengill’s patent of 1856, the two began making .31 and .34 caliber revolvers. Later, the two took over the Pettengill patent and formed their own business named the Rogers, Spencer & Company. The early Pettengill revolver was simply a self-cocking revolver with an enclosed hammer.

Rogers & Spencer made reportedly 5,000 of these revolvers but they were deemed to be unsuitable for use by the military and the contract was purportedly canceled. In 1864, Rogers & Spencer began making revolvers to compete against Remington and Colt, making black powder revolvers. A total of 5,000 of their black powder re- 44 caliber six-shot revolver. After being produced, it was converted to shoot centerfire cartridges. volvers were produced and sent to Ordnance on September 26, 1865.

However, there are no records indicating that these revolvers were ever issued to the troops as the Civil War ended. The guns were reportedly placed into storage and later sold to a merchant named Francis Bannerman. Each percussion gun had 7.5" octagon barrels, held six shots, and offered in .44 caliber (blackpowder). Bannerman reportedly sold them at low prices until all were distributed. There are reports that many of these guns are in pristine condition, however, I have not seen one (in person) as of yet.

Continuing my research on these Civil War era revolvers, I found that many had later been converted to accept straight wall centerfire cartridges. There was mention of Rogers & Spencer doing some conversions, along with frontier gunsmiths of the time period. And it is speculated (and reported) that there were at least four different types of conversion methods performed on the revolvers. My research found only three different conversions.

One was to convert the gun to centerfire by adding a recoil plate, extending the back of the cylinder/chamber area, inserting a pin on the nose of the hammer, and drilling through the recoil shied so that the firing pin would protrude to hit the centerfire cartridges. They had also added a loading gate. Another conversion was to make the changes and convert the revolver to .44 Rimfire.

The third conversion I located had a split-cylinder chamber area and a center pin installed in place of the original cylinder pin/bullet seat assembly. This split cylinder has a gap between the rear and front portion of the cylinder. In the case of the revolver on my bench today, it sports the first

The cylinder can now be removed from the right side. conversion process listed above. The complete conversion was not an afterthought and was very well done based upon the work and effort placed into making it a centerfire revolver. The cylinder was lengthened and that added portion was cleanly pinned to the original cylinder. The recoil shield was also made to fit the frame and was also carefully and cleanly pinned to the front of the recoil shield area. No loading gate was installed on this gun.

The flat nosed hammer had the firing pin silver soldered into it so that it would pass through the recoil shield and strike the primers of the centerfire rounds. The odd part is that the original center pin/bullet seat assembly was left fully intact as it was originally installed on the percussion revolvers. The bullet seat has no use on a centerfire revolver and cannot be used to remove spent cases from the cylinder. However, the cylinder pin/bullet seat assembly is used to hold the cylinder in place.

Measuring the chambers, it was difficult to determine what cartridge specifically the cylinder was converted to shoot. Measuring each chamber, I found none were fully concentric and all had varying diameters. The chambers would not accept a .44-40 cartridge, nor a .44 Magnum or .44 Special cartridge either, and was way too small in diameter to accept a .45 Long Colt round.

So, looking at the era in which the conversions took place, my opinion is that this revolver was converted to fire the .44 S&W Russian cartridge. This is based on chamber dimensions mostly. The chambers averaged 0.458" to 0.461" in diameter where the body of the cartridge would seat. And a .44 S&W Russian cartridge fully seated and chambered into each chamber when tested.

A look at the .44 S&W American cartridge (also a favorite of that time period) found that it was rather small for the chambers reamed on this revolver, so I discounted that cartridge. The bore measured well beyond the typical .44 caliber diameter of 0.429-0.431, coming in at 0.435. Therefore, modern .44 caliber bullets would skip down the barrel if used today.

Although these guns were considered strong during their time, and even with the addition of a recoil plate, I would recommend that these guns not be fired again—ever. The metallurgy of that time, and the fact that low pressure black powder was the common powder of the day, means that today’s powders would probably far exceed all pressures that this revolver was originally intended to receive. Just because it is mechanically capable doesn’t mean load her up and start banging away.

Disassembly and Inspection Since the customer wanted everything inspected for originality, to determine if the serial numbers all matched and that the revolver was still in original "converted" firing condition, it was completely disassembled, deep cleaned, lubricated, and reassembled. So, if you take one in missing parts or is simply Far This extension is pinned to the cylinder.

This is not commonly broken but the front trigger guard screw secures it in place. in a plastic bag completely disassembled, here is a firing order you can go by. As always, begin by making absolutely certain that the gun is not loaded. This is especially important if someone along the way seated a powder charge and bullet in the cylinder (one or more chambers) as you will want to get that charge out before going too much further.

This gun had a cleaning patch stuck in the bore and chamber and it first appeared to me to have alive charge stuck in that chamber. But removal of the patch found it was nothing more than that. This spring is fragile and many are found broken. The cylinder bolt stop is nested with the trigger and held in place by the trigger screw. Getting started, begin (after making sure it is unloaded) by turning the frame screw on the left side of the frame forward of the cylinder 1/4 turn counter-clockwise only.

Once this has been accomplished, unhook the cylinder pin detent from the loop under the barrel and withdraw the cylinder pin/bullet seat assembly forward and out of the frame. Now, cock the hammer rearward just a little bit (enough to drop the cylinder bolt stop downward) so that the cylinder can be removed out from the right side of the frame.

These steps are all that are needed when performing Moving on, you can disassemble the cylinder pin/bullet seat assembly by removing the screw that secures the cylinder pin to the assembly, then remove the screw that secures the bullet seat to the assembly. Finally, drift the small pin out at the nose of the cylinder pin assembly from right to left to release the cylinder pin detent and coil spring. This completes disassembly of the cylinder pin/bullet seat assembly.

Turning our attention back to the frame, begin by removing the grip screw and both grip panels. Under the grip panels you will see the serial number stamped into each grip, so you will know if the grips on the gun in front of you came from that same gun or not. You will also see the serial number on the cylinder pin yoke you removed and disassembled previously.

With the grips removed, cock the hammer fully to the rear (as far as you can pull it back) and then insert a wooden dowel in between the top of the mainspring and the top rear of the back strap. The dowel will hold the mainspring in a compressed position for easier removal and reasroutine cleaning and maintenance. Simply reassemble in reverse. sembly of the trigger guard/ back strap assembly. With the dowel in place, hold the hammer and pull the trigger, lowering the hammer fully downward.

This releases the hammer stir-

The pins are located at the 8, 3, and 10 o’clock positions as they are hard to see in the photo. You can also see the hole drilled through the top of the shield to allow the firing pin to pass through and hit the centerfire primers. If you need to make this spring, this photo should help with designing the needed shape. rup from the mainspring hooks so that further disassembly can be accomplished.

Loosen the front trigger guard screw, then the two back strap attaching screws located on the left side of the frame (rearward of the hammer screw). Once all are loose, remove the front trigger guard screw completely and then the remaining two back strap Whatever they did, it works! screws. Now work the back strap up and downward while pulling rearward to remove and release it from the frame and set aside.

You will notice once the trigger guard/back strap assembly has been removed that the cylinder bolt and trigger return spring is simply laying in place and can be removed by turning the frame upright and dumping this two-legged spring out. Remove the hammer screw from the left side of the frame and cock the hammer rearward fully. Pull downward on the hammer to remove it along with the attached cylinder hand and spring assembly from the receiver.

The cylinder hand assembly is pinned to the hammer but pulls off easily. This is one of the most common broken parts found on the Rogers & Spencer guns along with the mainspring. With the hammer and hand assembly removed, remove the trigger retaining screw from the left side of the frame. Once the screw is out, grasp the trigger and pull downward to remove the trigger and the cylinder bolt underneath of it. Note how the two interact with each other when reassembled.

The trigger screw also secures the cylinder bolt to the frame. The only other screw left is the cylinder pin/bullet seat assembly frame screw that you turned 1/4 of a turn at the beginning to remove the assembly. This screw is staked in place in the frame and should only be removed when absolutely necessary. This completes disassembly of the revolver. Reassembly is in reverse.

One tip here: when installing the trigger guard/back strap assembly back onto the frame, begin by making sure that the hammer screw is loose, then rotate the back strap enough so that you can capture the hammer stirrup onto the mainspring hooks, then, rotate the back strap assembly into the frame. Don’t forget to install the cylinder bolt/trigger return spring before fully seating the trigger guard/back strap assembly to the frame.

You may find it difficult to align both back strap holes for acceptance of the screws. Go slow here and use pressure on the back strap to ensure that both holes are aligned properly with the frame before seating the screws. You don’t want to force the screws

This is the one and only schematic I was able to locate. Even without the parts list, it does help in identifying everything. in or put them in a bind when inserting them into the frame. Once all three screws are aligned and started, tighten the front trigger screw first, and then tighten the two back strap screw fully. As stated previously, missing parts and broken mainsprings or hand springs seem to be the most commonly-found issue with these guns.

Because there are no parts (or almost no original parts) left, you need to decide on whether you will take one of these in for repair. I did find that some parts are available (aftermarket) from Dixie Gun Works (DixieGunWorks.com, so depending upon what is missing or broken, they may have one in stock. The mainspring can be made if necessary, and it is very beneficial to you if the original broken one is still contained in the trigger guard by the grip panels.

If not, you will have to make one without a comparative model available. The photo of the mainspring in this arti- Rogers & Spencer Revolver (Speci ications subject to change without notice) cle should help give you an approximate shape, dimension, and more importantly, the shape and contour of the hammer stirrup hooks. As for the hand assembly, if the hand is still serviceable, you can simply cut and shape anew flat spring and insert it into the slot on the hand to replace a broken spring.

It was rather nice having a complete and numbers-matching Rogers & Spencer .44 come through the shop finally. And speaking of that, you will find the serial number on the bottom of the barrel, the left side of the frame, the bottom of the back strap below the grips, on both grip panels, and on the cylinder pin/bullet seat assembly when checking for a matching numbers gun.

The conversion done on this revolver was very well constructed and no doubt, took some quality time to make and convert to a cartridge shooting specimen. In the mean time, I will be searching for that fourth conversion type I had read about… AG American Gunsmith Reader Services 1.