Revolver Sideplates, Cleaning And A Surprise

When a handgun comes into the shop one of the most basic steps is to determine if it’s sufficiently clean or if dirt, lint and/or clotted oil has interfered with functioning. Often, a cleaning will unstuck apart and restore reliable function. The revolver is certainly not immune to malfunctions and when working with them surprises may be waiting. Cleaning a revolver is important and even after 170 years of use there are issues found. As one example, not long ago I examined a Taurus .38 caliber revolver.

The double action trigger simply did not function properly. Yet the woman, a widow, told me that her husband had purchased the revolver in the 1970s and it had worked fine. They did the typical homeowner test seen too often. There was only one firing session with less than a box of ammunition and the four inch .38 was kept at the ready for some thirty years. I was examining the revolver for a possible estate sale. As it turned out, the only thing wrong with the revolver was that it needed cleaning.

Evidently, the owner had simply squirted oil into the piece year after year and the rest is history. My experience with this revolver gave me much hope in a later experience with a Smith and Wesson but it turned out the Smith could not be repaired so easily. Whenever a malfunctioning revolver is identified the first step is cleaning thoroughly and properly, and procedures must be understood. One of the first steps is removing the sideplate.

I have seen sideplates pried off with a screwdriver, seen the barrel smacked against a table top and any number of abuses over the years. Sideplates are fitted precision parts and fitting varies among makes and models. Some Smith and Wesson revolvers are almost seamless, the definition of a precision fit. Those not appreciating this sometimes remove them in a haphazard manner, causing warping or bending.

I have seen the screws removed with no regard for their return to the original holes and then the sideplate pried loose with a screwdriver blade. The proper means of removing the sideplate is to carefully remove and line up the sideplate screws. Unless they are to be replaced with new screws, I put them back in the same hole they were removed from. Some of the revolver types use the front screw to retain the crane and it is often worn to fit the crane.

In any case, I am always careful to keep each screw in its rightful place. The first step in removing the sideplate is to remove the retaining screws carefully using a proper tool such as the Smith and Wesson screwdriver set from Brownells. Place the revolver sideplate up and hold the revolver frame stable, watching for movement in the sideplate as the task is performed. Tap the grip frame with a wooden handle or short piece of board. The plastic handle of the Brownells tool works as well.

The sideplate will move out of its position in the frame and may be lifted off. There is little movement but the sideplate usually moves to the rear and out of the beveled top notch on modern pieces. With the action exposed you will wish to disassemble the revolver for a thorough cleaning. The flat spring of the revolver is removed first. Completely loosen the strain screw in the front strap. The flat spring then may be unhooked from the stirrup on the bottom of the hammer.

Alternately, some revolvers feature coil springs, such as the Jframe revolver. In this case the action is cocked with the hammer at the fully rearward position. A pin is placed in the hole in the spring, the hammer is lowered and the spring is lifted out. Lift out the rebound lever, being careful not to lose the rebound spring. A screwdriver may suffice but if you are going to perform this chore more than once a purpose-built Brownells tool is a nice thing to have.

Next, will cock the hammer and lift it off the frame and its pivot pin. The rebound bar and the trigger and hand lift out of the frame with little difficulty. The bolt requires more attention to detail but do not let it frustrate you. The bolt is a small part that must be managed with a small pick or punch and perhaps studied under magnification. The bolt is pressed down against the spring with one tool and the other pulls the bolt up off of its shaft.

The second tool is placed carefully under the bolt during this operation. After a thorough and careful cleaning with attention to the bear-

38-44 Outdoorsman frame. Note the additional positioning studs in this frame that serve as a hammer stop and a trigger stop. This is excellent work. This was later eliminated with the modern sideplate levers in place. ing surfaces, the revolver is reassembled. First, the bolt is replaced in the frame. The bolt slides on the shaft until the spring catches and holds it in place. To replace the trigger on its slot, slide it down onto the pin while holding the hand to the rear and secure the trigger.

With the trigger in place, move the hand into its proper place. Next, the cylinder release is pressed and the hammer is placed on the hammer pivot pin in the full cock position. You also need to keep the trigger pressed to the single action position at the same time. With a little practice it is not quite as difficult as it sounds. Next, release the trigger and press the hammer into the hammer down position. The rebound block will now be fitted into the back of the trigger.

The rebound spring is down, replaced behind the stud that retains the rebound. The safety or rebound lever down is placed into its pin on the rebound block. With the revolver reassembled we move to lubrication. The rule is less is more. A drop of oil on the internal parts that contact the other is indicated, including the hammer, hammer pivot hole, pivot surface of the double action sear, stirrup on the mainspring Be certain it is persevered in order of disassembly. and hand.

I also like to oil the cylinder shaft or center pin. Too much oil attracts lint and unburned powder. When working with magnum revolvers, particularly those with short barrels, there will certainly be unburned powder and it must be cleaned from time to time. As an aside, the old pinned revolvers with recessed cylinders are particularly bad offenders

Care should be taken at this point. This is the illustration of the usual movement. for collecting unburned powder under the case rim and may accumulate enough over time that chambering the cartridge becomes difficult. Be certain that this problem is addressed during the cleaning operation. Recently, a remarkable revolver came across my path. The Smith and Wesson .38-44 Outdoorsman is a relative rarity and is arguably among the finest ever manufactured.

An inordinate amount of hand fitting went into the Outdoorsman and remains in very good shape for 1931 production. However, the story was that at some point the piece had been converted to single action operation. The double action trigger could be pressed but it did not cock the hammer, although the hand moved the cylinder. The piece was found at a pawn shop at a bargain price and there was very little story behind it other than the warning that the internals were given no warranty.

No one claimed to have converted it to single action, that was simply the assumption. The revolver could have been broken or cut up in any manner, however, upon examination the Outdoorsman was very crisp in the single action mode. This revolver also was fitted with a set of Jay Scott grips and a trigger shoe. The single action press on this Outdoorsman is possibly the finest I have ever encountered on a Smith and Wesson revolver. While an interesting period piece, the real interest was internal.

Thinking that perhaps the pistol was only stuck in the single action mode and needing a through cleaning, the side plate was carefully removed. Initial examination confirmed that the action was the same as the 1917 Smith and Wesson and parts were on hand, however, significant observations made gave me pause. First, the action was not stuck. The piece was indeed intentionally converted to a single action operation only.

There would have been little difficulty in converting the piece back to double action, at least that is where our first appraisal led us. It appeared only

Reader comments are welcome. the sear would have to be replaced but once the revolver was stripped something else was apparent. Two pins had been sweated into the frame. The job looked as if it were a factory job but Roy Jinks, Smith and Wesson historian, confirmed that the revolver left the factory in standard double action configuration. The pins act as a hammer stop and trigger stop. No wonder the single action press is so perfectly crisp!

Here was a revolver converted by a true craftsman and converted in order to give the user an advantage in long range shooting. The .38-44 designation means .38 Special on a .44 frame. Predating the .357 Magnum, the .38-44 was designed heavy handloads. These revolvers set a number of long range records including a high percentage of hits on 200 yard silhouette targets. No doubt the shooter decided to set this revolver up for long range use and the work done is faultless.

The pins are very well done and perfectly located. I cannot believe that this is the only time the workman performed this modification. Adding to the mystery, the revolver features an unusual non-standard long spur hammer. The hammer is obviously original as there are no weld lines or anything of the sort. It is marked "Registered Patent" but with no patent number. My research has failed thus far to locate any description of the hammer. Of course, this Outdoorsman had to be test fired.

Loading Black Hills .38 Special 148 grain wadcutters yielded 15/16 inch groups at 25 yards. A Winchester 158 grain RNL loading of 1967 vintage gave 1.5 inch groups, same This is a Dan Wesson revolver. distance and shots. Using a handload consisting of Tennessee Valley Cast Bullets 190 gr. Flat point over #2400 powder at 890 fps, the revolver shot 1.0 inch groups, same conditions. What is to be done with this revolver? It has been cleaned thoroughly and checked for defects. There were none.

The primary wear is on the finish. The original case hardened hammer and trigger are in fine condition. The bore is sound. The revolver was put back together exactly as it was. To remove the pins and "restore" the piece somehow seems absurd, at least until we learn more about the modification. AG