Pillar Bedding The Remington 700/40X

Controversy remains over the usefulness of adding a third pillar to a rifle action but I no longer question this method of bedding.

By now I have added a third bedding pillar to over a dozen rifles and in no case has this worsened the level of accuracy. Rather, the most encouraging result has shown a measurable accuracy improvement in more than half of these rifles. I have logically concluded from this that a third pillar is likely to improve or at least help maintain accuracy.

My experience has covered a representative sampling of makes and models including the Remington 700 and 40X series, Savage Models 112 and 12, Ruger Model 77, Winchester Model 70. Improvement is almost assured in conjunction with a really sturdy one piece Picatinny scope base. This treatise will cover the addition of a third pillar on a short action Model 40X Remington rifle positioned in the front trigger guard screw hole.

This work will involve the replacement of the front Filister head wood screw which aligns perfectly with an existing screw hole in the receiver just forward of the trigger housing. This smaller screw hole is drilled and tapped for a larger 10-24 size screw. The main front and rear guard screws on this short action Model 40X Remington span 6 1/2 inches with the newly added forward guard screw just 5/8 inch short of center position, providing for a solid auxiliary pillar.

In the models 700 and 40X series Remington this presents a good third pillar location. On a few I have placed it more centrally, adding a stock escutcheon and new receiver screw hole. In preparation for setting the stock pillar hole, a larger threaded hole is drilled and tapped to replace the smaller threaded hole just forward of the trigger housing. I used a 1 5/8 inch 10-24 hardened Allen Head screw. The screw head is countersunk into the front of the trigger housing screw hole at an 82 degree angle.

A modified aluminum pillar, The tap seen at left is later used to tap the new screw hole. made by Score High Gunsmithing, extended to 1.165 inches in length, is used as a central pillar spanning between the action and the trigger guard. A 5/8 inch diameter through hole is cut through the stock using a piloted counter sink guided by a headless screw placed in the newly tapped central guard screw hole just forward of the trigger housing. The hole is about 1.175-inch in depth.

The formed pillar is then attached to the rifle action and tested for proper alignment and length as the action is lowered into the stock. Any binding of the new pillar along the sides of the newly drilled hole must be relieved. The attached pillar must be cut to length for a flush fit with the underside of the trigger guard. With the pillar properly fitted, apply release agent to the receiver and radius end of the central pillar.

The modified pillar from Score High Gunsmithing is also shown here. Solid attachment to the action is necessary to assure perfect alignment with the other two stock pillars. Don’t get any release agent to the sides of the pillar. The pillar is then bolted to the receiver exactly as it will be and perfectly aligned with the already-installed front and rear pillars. These three pillars will then form a precise coincident axis with even bearing surfaces as the action is bolted to the stock.

With the stock held level in a padded vise and the central pillar ready to be set into position, have the front and rear guard screws ready to hold the action firmly into the stock. You won’t be able to use the trigger guard, so have a washer or a drilled-out nut ready for the rear action screw. Lowering the action into position one more time is advised before mixing up the pillar bonding material.

Be sure the recoil lug is snugly against its mortise and, if the barrel is free floating, shim the front to level position to avoid a tipping of the action. I use Brownells Steel Bed as a bonding agent as it isn’t too thin and doesn’t migrate like less viscous materials. It hardens like steel and shrinkage isn’t a problem. Coat both the attached pillar and the pillar hole walls with bedding material and lower the barreled action squarely into the stock.

I then start the action tang screw until it makes light contact followed by the recoil lug action screw. Tighten both evenly and with about the same torque as action screws. Allow the bonding material to set several hours until very firm. I usually remove the action from the stock before the bonding material is totally set. Its dimensional stability is such that you won’t have to worry about it. The tang pillar (rear) was positioned before the central pillar was added.

The central pillar adds an element of precision and rigidity to the overall bedding system. With the trigger guard absent you are able to see the new pillar protruding through its hole. Here you will want to clean up any excess bonding material flush with the stock and pillar. While the Steel Bed is nearly hard, a very small, sharp chisel can be used to shape things up at this juncture. You should be assured of a hundred percent success without complications.

Where optimal precision and accuracy is your goal, a properly installed central pillar is almost certain to help you. AG

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