Browning Buckmark Varmint/Silhouette

I recently had opportunity recently to take in an old favorite—a Browning Buckmark pistol in .22LR. Not just another Buckmark as this old beauty had a 9 7/8" barrel with oversized grips. You don’t see many Buckmarks configured this way, however, the problems it was having was worthy of a write up as it applies to all Buckmark models. The gun was found to have been manufactured in 1988. Although lacking markings, it was determined to be either a Silhouette or Varmint model.

My efforts to locate more specific information was limited beyond this being along barreled configuration. The absence of forend wood indicated it is a Varmint model, however, the barrel had the screw hole in the bottom so that wood could be affixed. Based on the year of manufacture and options on the gun (or missing from it) I believe this is the Varmint model.

The owner said the gun was having "magazine problems, feeding problems, and just wasn’t working right." Buckmark issues are typically in the grip panels, magazines, and shock buffers being the most common culprits with functioning problems. Occasionally, a firing pin will be broken or improper cleaning has resulted in the gun not working at all. I began with a full function check using dummy rounds. The gun was fairly clean but my eyes kept looking at those oversized grips.

They were not Browning factory grips and my suspicions about the issues reported led me to believe this was the best place to start. The gun passed all function checks, including an operational safety. The dummy rounds fed, chambered, extracted, and ejected without fail in two of the three magazines provided with the gun. The slide locked to the rear when the last round was ejected from each working magazine and the firing pin was making deep clean cuts when the trigger was pulled on a plastic snap cap.

I did notice both grip panel screws were a little loose, as was the barrel mounting screw and one of the scope base rib screws (the rearmost screw above the rear of the receiver.) After tightening up all visible screws and running a clean patch down the bore, I decided a trip to the range was in order to see what my customer was experiencing. I took four different brands of ammunition, from target to high velocity.

Two of the three magazines provided worked fine but the one that didn’t would not fully seat in the frame when inserted. It would go nearly all of the way in and come to a dead stop with no getting it to lock into place. There were file marks on the locking notch that I planned on addressing later so I left it behind. At the range, the first full magazine of ten rounds worked flawlessly. The second magazine loaded with ten more rounds by a different manufacture had the same result.

During the third magazine full of another brand, I felt the magazine pop down (unlatch) while firing the third shot. This jammed the empty casing when trying to eject and it occurred a few more times with different ammo. A magazine exchange did not correct the problem. Lucky for me, the customer had the original Browning Buckmark grips in the gun box, so I decided to remove the oversized right grip panel, install the original right grip panel only, and returned to the firing line.

For the next 60-plus rounds, the gun worked flawlessly. No matter which brand of ammunition was loaded into both magazines, everything worked fine. Looking at the right side grip panel of the aftermarket oversized grips revealed a large groove of material missing that had been dug out on the inside of that grip panel directly over the magazine latch spring. What was happening is that the magazine latch spring would work its way out of where it was supposed to be and down into that groove.

This relaxed the spring enough to allow the magazines to pop out or down during firing. They would lock into place when re-inserting fully but would not stay there when firing. Enough testing; it was time to take her back to the bench. Since I now knew the issue causing magazines to pop out, I decided to fill that groove with Acraglas and then sand the area flush to the inside of the grip panel.

I began by roughing up the groove with sandpaper and then used a 1/8" drill bit to drill two holes on each end at an angle so as to help hold the Acraglas "patch" in place. The grips had a lot of oil in them and I was concerned the Acrag-

22LR pistol. Note the large, oversized aftermarket grips. This weakened the spring tension considerably. las would not adhere properly. After prepping the groove, I used 70% alcohol with paper towels to clean out as much oil as I could. I repeated this alcohol wipe down a number of times over a span of 20 minutes or so to get as much adhesion as I could.

Once dry, I mixed up a small amount of Acraglas Gel, mixed in Then, after removing the scope rib base screw, only back the screw out until you can tilt the barrel up, out, and completely remove it from the action. Then complete the removal of the barrel from the receiver. some color, and carefully filled the groove. I began with the two drilled holes first and then worked the Gel into the groove until I was sure it was filled with no air holes.

I used a wide chisel blade and a clamp to apply flat, even, smooth pressure over the Acraglas in the groove and left it to harden for a couple of days. With that underway, I decided to disassemble the pistol for a good cleaning. Since it was working so well, I opted to only take it down as far as Browning recommends for routine cleaning. The owner’s manual warns against taking the gun apart when cleaning it, stating, "NOTICE! This is a specialized, finely fitted mechanism.

Do not take your firearm’s action apart beyond what is explained in this owner’s manual. It is unnecessary, and may permanently damage the inner mechanism or render the firearm unsafe to disassemble it for routine cleaning and oiling. Of course, misfortunes (such as dropping your gun in water) require appropriate attention, and in such circumstances we recommend you immediately take your firearm to a qualified gunsmith." Furthermore, the manual doesn’t provide the steps necessary to take it down for deep cleaning.

As stated in the manual, taking the gun to a qualified gunsmith is your best option when it comes time to have to disassemble the firearm. Loss of parts and potential damage to the firearm can result, so if you decide to take the gun down as specified in this article, do so at your own risk. You may end up taking the gun to a more experienced gunsmith anyway! There is much written about the complete disassembly and reassembly of the Browning Buckmark.

The reference I like best is in The Gun Digest Book of Firearms Assem-

This angle or tilt will be repeated during reassembly of the barrel. Note, I only needed to replace the right side grip with the factory panel when testing for the issues at the range. Removal of this assembly allows you to pivot the slide off the frame. What can’t be seen here is the notch cut out in the bottom of the recoil rod guide (at the bolt face) that fits over the firing pin.

Note the recoil shock buffer and how it seats into the slide when reassembling. bly/Disassembly, Part I: Automatic Pistols, 2nd Edition by J. B. Wood. The reason I like that manual best is it has clear photos and excellent step-by-step disassembly instructions along with some reassembly The slide stop open latch and its V-spring are in proper position when reinstalling the grip panel. The magazine latch spring just lays in the cutout for it.

Keep an eye on the disconnector V-spring as it can get lost, especially when cleaning. tips. But again, following those printed steps does not necessarily mean you will reassemble the pistol correctly, so proceed with caution. I am only covering Buckmark takedown for deep cleaning or repairs and this should only be done when really needed. If you are not familiar with this pistol, or any pistol for that matter, I urge you to not disassemble this firearm.

To begin, remove the magazine and pull the slide fully to the rear, look into the chamber, and make sure the pistol is unloaded. Leave the slide locked rearward by engaging the slide stop open latch. With appropriate-sized, hollow-ground screwdriver blades, lightly loosen the recessed barrel mounting set screw located on the front of the receiver and underneath the barrel.

Loosen and remove the screw from the scope base rib that is directly over the rear of the slide (rear most screw of the scope base rib.) Unscrew the barrel mounting set screw just enough so that you can remove the barrel by tipping the breech end up and working it out of the receiver while clearing the recoil guide rod spring (rod) that is protruding from the face of the slide. When reassembling, make sure you start both screws identified above first and then

This corrected the issue with the magazine latch spring and kept the magazines in place while firing. Look for any wear issues here and replace as needed. tighten the scope base rib screw, finishing with the barrel mounting screw. If tightened the other way, you’ll pinch the rear scope rib base screw while reinstalling it. This can strip the threads on that screw. With the barrel removed and set aside, carefully remove the slide.

Place your weak hand thumb or a finger(s) over the top of the recoil guide spring rod assembly in the top of the slide. Use your other hand to slowly disengage the slide stop open latch to move the slide forward, up, and off the receiver. You may see the shock buffer come out with the recoil guide rod spring assembly or it may stay attached to the rear receiver lug that sticks up at the back. Either way, remove it and remember how it fits into place when reinstalling.

The small round indentation in the buffer goes up and is where the recoil guide rod spring assembly fits into it. The larger circular detent protruding out the back of the buffer fits into the recessed circular cutout in the receiver. If the recoil buffer is damaged at all, replace it. Browning sells them and you can order them right away if you don’t have any on hand. While ordering, also get a few extra rear sight base screw washers because they get lost very easily if you are not careful.

With the slide removed and the recoil shock buffer out, remove the recoil guide spring rod assembly. Look it over before removing to know how it goes back into place. On this pistol there is a notch in the recoil spring guide, which is the squared piece located at the breech end of the recoil guide rod spring assembly, and it seats right over and retains the firing pin in place when properly seated back into its slot in the breech end of the slide assembly.

The gun is now taken down as far as you need to clean it properly. If you decide to remove the firing pin, realize they typically stake the firing pin slot at the rear of the firing pin slot in the slide. You’ll have to lift the firing pin up from the front of the bolt/slide assembly and under it you will find a firing pin return spring inside. Keep a hand over so it does not become lost. Reinstall the firing pin and return spring in reverse.

Browning recommends no harsh solvents be utilized when cleaning this pistol, so be careful what you use to clean it. I use Rem Oil and a brush and that seems to be good for cleaning and gentle enough not to harm the finish. With Buckmarks, I clean everything first—even the working parts areas of the receiver while still assembled—then dry them all and use an air compressor to remove excess oil.

Once it is all cleaned and dry, I then remove one grip panel at a time to dry the frame underneath as well as the grip panel itself. Oil will always pool underneath the grip panels. If the panels are made of wood, problems will come after the oil starts to break down and soften them. Plus, dirt and powder residue seems to jump right in there to cause problems as well. I like to remove one grip panel at a time because it keeps the parts that can fall out in place and, therefore, less susceptible to loss.

Once you have the receiver pretty dry, wipe down the inside of the grip panels and reassemble them. Make sure the magazine latch spring and trigger disconnector are back in place properly under the right grip panel and that the slide stop open latch is properly positioned over the small protruding end of the V-spring (slide stop open latch spring) that controls it before attaching the left side grip panel.

With both grip panels securely back into place, replace the recoil shock buffer in its place located at the rear of the receiver. Make sure the small indentation in the buffer is up and facing the front of the pistol. Seat the slide down and over that rear receiver lug. At this point, I place the rear of the recoil guide rod spring assembly into the indentation provided in the buffer. With your weak hand, grasp the squared end of the recoil guide rod (recoil spring guide) and slide it back to-

wards the rear under spring pressure until you can seat it properly into the slot cut out for it in the face of the bolt at the front of the slide. Remember, the firing pin squared slot of the recoil spring guide fits over the top of the firing pin to retain it in place when reinstalling. Keeping your hand or fingers over the recoil guide rod spring assembly, retract the slide fully to the rear and lock it open with the slide stop open latch.

With the slide all the way to the rear, reinstall the back of the barrel/feed ramp into the receiver at an angle and lay it flush into the receiver. Lightly tighten the barrel mounting set screw first, then install the rear scope base rib mounting screw and tighten it. Fully tighten the barrel mounting set screw last. Again, reinstalling both screws in this manner helps prevent pinching the rear scope mount rib screw when it is reattached to the receiver.

The scope base rib mounting screws should be checked to ensure they have the sight base screw washers still attached to them. If not, be sure to obtain and install them. You can now operate the slide to make sure everything is working properly. Install an empty magazine into the receiver to ensure the slide locks back when opening and that the slide will close when depressing the slide stop open latch downward. The pistol is now fully reassembled.

Once the right side grip panel was cured, I sanded down the area until the entire area was flat and blended into the inside grip panel. Reassembly of that panel proved the magazine dropping out while firing issue was gone and the gun was now working as it should. As I had mentioned earlier, that pesky third magazine of the lot did not want to seat fully into the magazine well.

I removed the left side grip panel from the receiver so that I could see what was happening but could not see anything causing it to stop suddenly when inserted. I then removed that magazine and began comparing it to the other two and found the top, back edge of the problem magazine was bent and bowed outward. This prevented the back of the magazine from clearing the frame inside. I lightly peened this area down so that it was flat like the other two.

This modification allowed the magazine to slip right into place and lock as it should. However, a trial run with dummy rounds found it would not feed properly. The dummy round would stand up when trying to close the slide. This just meant that the front two magazine lips needed to be clamped together closer and that did the trick. The dummy rounds then fed flawlessly and that completed the problems with this particular Buckmark.

Sometimes you will get extracting problems caused by either the extractor spring being rusted or weak, or the extractor spring and detent hole being filled with hardened powder residue. Badly worn or broken extractors can be replaced. In my experience, only light fitting of the extractor is needed to make it work properly. Firing pins can break.

Be careful when installing them so that the nose of the firing pin does not make contact with the chamber edges as that will create more problems as well as break that new firing pin in short order if dry fired. The Browning Buckmark has along tradition of being good shooting pistols that are very accurate and fun. This long-barreled beauty did not disappoint. A couple of people at the range thought the gun had a suppressor on it.

With a laser or red dot mounted, you can shoot this pistol two handed by wrapping your weak hand around the barrel—well back from the muzzle of course. At the end of the day, watch those aftermarket grips. They can cause this old workhorse to fail in short order. AG American Gunsmith Reader Services 1.