Beretta Model 76

A customer recently brought me in a target pistol that I honestly was unfamiliar with other than seeing on occasion. In other words, this pistol was the first to hit my bench for a much needed cleaning and a couple of parts. After taking possession of the Beretta Model 76, I began looking for information about it from multiple sources, including my own library, but could not find anything informative about it.

I did run across a copy of the original owner’s manual—a twopage pamphlet about the pistol, how to disassemble it for cleaning, and a parts schematic. Needless to say, there were no "how to disassemble it completely" instructions or stepby-step dismantling information to be found, at least by me. So, I felt a write-up was in order. Some of my research revealed that Beretta’s Model 76 was manufactured between 1971 and 1985 and was built on the same receiver as the Models 73 and 74.

It was available with either wood or plastic grips and had the rear sight mounted to the barrel weight (or shroud, as it is called) rather that mounted to the slide. Furthermore, the previous make was the Model 101, having been produced since the mid-1950s. It was suggested that Model 101 and 76 magazines are the same and will fit either pistol but I have no way to verify this. The owner’s manual did have some good information. This pistol was made by Armi Beretta, S.p.

A., 25063 Gardone Valtrompia, Brescia (Italy) and that it was, "Designed for the serious minded competitor. The target pistol that incorporates 22LR. all the features necessary in match shooting… adjustable target sights, heavy barrel, ideal weight, perfect balance, and a non-glare rib." The Model 76 comes in .22 Long Rifle, has a six-inch barrel, is blued, has a 10-round magazine, weighs approximately 33 ounces, and stays open on the last shot.

The manual does have a schematic and parts inventory/listing that accompanies it, however, it differed just a little bit as compared to another I had. The difference between the two, actually, was the fact that the owner’s manual schematic shows every one of the parts for this pistol on my bench, where the schematic I used shows a second barrel weight lock screw (3) rather than the barrel pin that this pistol has. That’s all the information I could locate about this gem of a target pistol.

Typically, I will find a "similar" design in service manuals, however, this time, no such luck. This put me on my own to open her up and create the steps needed to do so. I was actually surprised at how well the disassembly and reassembly went after taking the steps that I tried and ultimately took. I can not claim the steps used herein to disassemble and reassemble this pistol are the only steps or in the only (correct) order.

I am certain that others have disassembled this pistol a little differently and that is OK. I just wanted to provide the steps I found that can be used and will work. The owner’s manual does provide the steps needed

Harsh solvents might lift the finish on the weight bar, so proceed with caution. It is retained by one pin and one screw but fits snugly inside the weighted bar.

Note the cut out in the bottom middle of the barrel where the barrel retaining pin goes into the weight bar when properly reinstalled. to disassemble the gun for routine cleaning but it should be noted that step 7 in the owner’s manual specifically states, "No further disassembly is recommended except by a competent gunsmith." My advice here is to not totally disassemble any firearm unless you just have to, such as when re-bluing or fitting/repairing internal parts.

Especially guns that are out of production and parts for it are nearly extinct, such as this Model 76. I was not able to locate one part for this pistol during my searches. With all that said, let’s get started. Only the grips have been removed. Disassembly Remove the magazine and pull the slide all the way to the rear to inspect the chamber, insuring there is no ammunition in the firearm.

Once cleared, begin by holding the pistol in your strong hand, right side up, so that your thumb can actuate the disassembly latch (31). Use your other hand to retract the slide to the rear enough so the slide recess aligns with the disassembly latch. Rotate the latch forward so the slide will clear it when removed. Once the catch is turned forward and out of the way, remove the slide/barrel/ weight assembly forward and off of the receiver. It may be difficult to move the slide forward.

If so, pull and release the slide a few times until the assembly starts separating from the receiver. Once you are able to, pull the assembly off the receiver. To disassemble this assembly for cleaning, only remove the recoil guide rod (14) and recoil guide rod spring (13), and the slide (12). Clean the assembly, then reassemble in reverse order. If you need to take this assembly down further—such as for bluing or repairs—begin by removing the barrel weight lock screw (3).

This pistol had only one screw to remove but the schematic shows two. After removing the screw, drift out the barrel weight pin (not shown on the accompanying schematic but is shown in the owner’s manual as part #4). This pin drifts out from left to right. After removing this pin, drift the barrel (1) out of the weight bar (2). To accomplish this, you may need to tap the barrel out from muzzle towards the breech end with a large nylon punch.

Keep in mind that Beretta does not advocate or recommend removing the barrel and it makes sense you won’t need to unless the pistol is being rebuilt or going to be blued. Once the barrel is removed from the weight bar, turn your attention back to the slide assembly. Again, there isn’t a need to remove the firing pin or extractor unless broken. If you do need to remove the assembly, know that the firing pin (15) and firing pin spring (16) are retained in place by a lug on the extractor (17).

Removal of the extractor pin (18) will release all above parts along with the extractor spring (19). Drift the extractor pin out downward from the top of the slide into the bottom or inside of the slide as the pin is staked in place on top of the slide. When reassembling this assembly, you will be best served by aligning the extractor, extractor spring, firing pin, and firing pin spring all at once and capturing them with a slave pin smaller in diameter than the pin hole.

Tap the extractor pin (18) back into place, starting it inside of the slide and stopping when flush with the stake on the top (visible) part of the slide.

The sear spring leg is pushing the sear forward. Once the leg is moved OFF the sear, the sear and sear pin can be removed. If the adjustable sights need to be removed/replaced, begin by removing the interchangeable front sight (4) from the barrel weight bar (2) by removal of the front sight set screw (5) found on the top face of the muzzle. Remove the screw and pull the front sight out. The rear sight assembly (6, 7, 8, 9, 10, and 11) can be removed by taking out the assembly pin (9) and screw (10).

There are two small springs (11) under the sight base. Be careful not to lose them. This completes the slide and barrel weight disassembly. Moving on to the receiver, I couldn’t locate a "firing order" for disassembling it. Therefore, I found a sequence that did work. I am sure there are other ways to disassemble the receiver but I did not have that information when working this pistol. I began by removing the twopiece grip panels (57) by removal of the grip panel screws (52) and (53).

Once they have been removed, take care in removing the panels as they sort of wedge into place towards the front of the grip area. There is a lip on the panels that fit into the slots on the receiver. Go slow and do not force them out or you could crack or break the grips. With the grips set aside, I began by removing the slide disassembly catch (31). This catch can be removed by turning and wiggling it out the right side of the receiver. Take note there is a disassembly catch circlip (32) on the disassembly catch.

Make sure it is still on the catch when you remove it. It is a wire spring that circles the catch pin. Next, remove the magazine release push button (43). This is accomplished by using a very thinbladed hollow ground screwdriver bit. Lay the receiver on the bench right side down. Unscrew the magazine release push button screw (43) until it comes out. It will be under spring pressure as the magazine release push button spring (44) operates the magazine catch.

Take note as to how the magazine release catch (45) is installed on the pistol prior to removal as the catch portion should protrude inside the magazine well when reinstalled. With that removed, turn your attention to the hammer spring assembly (27). The three parts in this assembly are the guide rod, spring, and spring retainer plate and it all comes out as one assembly. To remove, cock the hammer fully to the rear.

Using pliers with protective tips, squeeze the guide rod tight just below the spring retainer plate, lower the hammer, and pull the assembly out of the rear of the receiver. The dog leg on the top of the hammer spring guide rod fits into a slot in the middle of the hammer and is installed towards the rear of the receiver when replaced. Remove the safety lever (23). Place the safety lever in the full upright ON position. Turn the receiver over so the left side is down on the bench.

With one hand, push the hammer (25) as far forward as you can while using the other hand equipped with a brass or non-marring punch to push the safety lever out of the receiver (right to left). The safety lever will not come out if in the OFF or down position due to the safety lever engagement lugs not being in alignment with the hole in the receiver. Go slow here and plan on capturing the safety spring and plunger assembly (24).

With the receiver face down on the bench, it will help to capture these two small parts. Make sure you put a cloth or paper towel around the safety lever first to help keep them from flying off the bench.

Work the short leg of this spring back into the receiver recess when reinstalling. Remove carefully or the leg could break off. The hammer (25) can now be removed by gently lowering the hammer (forward) while pulling the trigger all the way to the rear. The hammer will move freely and the hammer pin (26) can be easily pushed out from left to right.

Remember, during reassembly that the red paint on the one end of this hammer pin should show on the left side of the receiver as this hammer pin also serves as the safety indicator. Turn your attention to the sear assembly. Begin by unhooking one leg of the sear spring (30) from the sear (28) so the sear is no longer under spring tension. Turn the receiver over on a bench block left side down and place the sear pin (29) lug down over one of the holes in the bench block.

Use a starter punch to begin moving the sear pin (29) towards the bench block, then remove this pin completely from the left side of the receiver. Work the sear out of the frame and remove the sear spring as you don’t want to lose it. Note the long leg of the sear spring hooks onto the sear and the short leg of the spring fits into a recess in the receiver to capture it when reassembled. To remove the ejector (21), drift both frame ejector pins (22) out left to right and reinstall in reverse.

Typically it is not necessary to remove this when bluing and should only be done when the ejector is broken or malfunctioning/worn. The slide catch (33) gets removed next. Turn the pistol over with the right side up and remove the small slide catch E-spring (34). Once removed, turn the receiver back over right side down and begin pulling and working the slide catch out. Go slow here as the slide catch has a small spring on it called the slide catch spring (35).

The long leg of this spring fits into a recess on the slide catch pin itself and the short end fits into a recess in the receiver. Take note as to how it is in place as you slowly remove it and reinstall it the same way. Note, the slide catch also serves as the trigger frame pin. Once the slide catch is removed, remove the trigger.

I wouldn’t remove the trigger unless absolutely needed for repairs or bluing as you have to maneuver the trigger forward at the bottom and tilt it back at the top to clear the cutout in the receiver. Once it clears, the trigger (36), trigger spring (37), trigger bar spring (38), trigger bar plunger (39), trigger bar (40), and trigger bar pin (41) can be removed out the rear of the receiver.

Once that assembly has been removed, take out the disconnector (42) by sliding it downward and out of the track it resides in on the right side of the receiver. That completes the disassembly. Reassembly Tips Reassemble the pistol in reverse order. When reinstalling the slide catch (33) and slide catch spring (35) push the short leg of the spring in with a plastic punch or other nonmarring tool as you capture the trigger through the hole in the receiver.

When the slide catch is close to seating, push the small leg of the spring down and into the receiver recess. Once seated, turn the pistol over and reinstall the slide catch Espring (34). It is wise to function test it so that you know it is operating properly. Note, once the disassembly catch (31) is re-installed, it will cover and protect the slide catch Espring (34). When installing the sear (28), make sure the dog leg on top of the sear faces rearward towards the hammer.

Align the sear hole with the receiver hole and then reinstall the sear pin (29) by drifting in place from the left side of the receiver. The large lug on that pin will stick out on the left side of the receiver when properly installed. After the sear is back in place, reinstall the sear spring (30) by inserting the Ushaped section into the slot on the left side of the receiver with the short leg being inserted into the recess for it. Compress the long leg of

Grip this end below the spring retainer plate with soft-nosed pliers and lower the hammer to pull the hammer spring assembly out in one unit. Reinstall in reverse. The slide catch E-spring clips on this pin to retain the slide catch. Once the slide is reassembled and the disassembly catch is turned back to the right, it will cover and protect the slide catch E-spring (not shown). the spring and hook it onto the sear on the notch that holds the spring leg in place.

When reinstalling the hammer (25) and hammer pin (26), begin by pulling the trigger fully to the rear so that you can align the hole in the hammer with the hammer pin hole in the receiver. Replace the hammer pin (26) so the red-painted end is facing up on the left side of the receiver. Pulling the trigger to the rear takes pressure off the hammer, allowing the pin to drop back into place. The red paint should show when the safety is in the OFF position.

When replacing the safety lever assembly (23 and 24), insert the safety spring and safety spring detent into the hole on the safety lever. With the pistol laying left side up, use one finger to push the hammer fully forward while inserting the safety lever into the receiver. Once it gets close to seating, depress the detent until it snaps into place. Function test now to ensure it is working properly. The hammer spring assembly (27) is up next.

Place the assembly in a vice with protective jaws upside down (dog leg down) and clamp tight. Use pliers with protective tips to push downward on the hammer spring retainer plate about a half inch, then grab the hammer spring guide tightly with the pliers. Holding onto the assembly with the pliers, remove from the vice and insert the dog leg end into the back of the receiver, up and into the slot in the bottom middle of the hammer.

Once in place, align the spring retainer plate over the notch it fits into on the receiver and release the pliers. The hammer spring assembly should now be back in place and the retainer plate seated into the notch for it. Function test now to be sure. Reinstalling the magazine release push button (43) and spring (44) is accomplished by placing the magazine release catch (45) in the slot on the right side of the receiver and then turning the receiver over, laying it down on a hard surface.

Move the catch so the hole aligns with the hole in the receiver. Once that is done, insert the magazine release push button and spring, applying downwa rd pressure on the spring while screwing back into place. I used a drop of blue Loctite to ensure it won’t back out during use. Tighten the screw until snug and test it to make sure it will release the magazine correctly. Installing the disassembly catch (31) with the disassembly catch circlip spring attached (32) is tricky.

Begin by inserting the catch into the hole on the right side of the receiver. Once you have aligned this properly, apply light pressure to the catch while using your other hand to push the circlip spring into place. I used a thin, nylon blade but a Magna-Tip thin blade can do the trick if you are careful not to mar the finish. Pushing in on the edges of the circlip will allow you to fully seat the disassembly catch back into the receiver. Reinstalling the barrel (1) is straightforward.

Wipe the barrel down with an oily rag and insert it into the barrel weight bar (2) muzzle end first through rear of the weight bar. Tap the barrel into the weight bar with a rubber-tipped hammer or nylon punch until the rounded notch in the bottom of the barrel aligns with the pin hole in the barrel weight bar (2). Once aligned, do a final check to be sure that the barrel lug is perpendicular to the barrel weight bar. Install the barrel weight bar pin (not shown on the accompa-

Beretta Model 76 (Speci ications subject to change without notice) 1 Barrel 2 Barrel Weight 3 Barrel Weight Lock Screws 4 Interchangeable Front Sight 5 Front Sight Screw 6 Rear Sight Base 7 Rear Sight Blade 8 Rear Sight Windage Screws 9 Rear Sight Assembly Pin 10 Rear Sight Assy.

Elevating Screw 11 Rear Sight Assembly Springs (2) 12 Slide 13 Recoil Spring 14 Recoil Spring Guide 15 Firing Pin 16 Firing Pin Spring 17 Extractor 18 Extractor Pin 19 Extractor Spring 20 Frame nying schematic but shown as part #4 in the owner’s manual.) Just drift this pin into place.

I placed a little blue Loctite in the hole prior to in- 21 Ejector 22 Ejector Pins (2) 23 Safety-Lever 24 Safety Spring and Plunger Assy. 25 Hammer 26 Hammer Pin 27 Hammer Spring Assembly 28 Sear 29 Sear Pin 30 Sear Spring 31 Disassembly Catch 32 Disassembly Catch Circlip 33 Slide Catch 34 Slide Catch E Spring 35 Slide Catch Spring 36 Trigger 37 Trigger Spring 38 Trigger Bar Spring 39 Trigger Bar Spring Plunger 40 Trigger Bar 41 Trigger Bar Pin 42 Disconnector 43 Magazine Release Push Button 44 Magazine Release Spring 45 Magazine Release Catch 46 Magazine Box 47 Magazine Floorplate 48 Magazine Floorplate Extension 49 Magazine Spring 50 Follower 51 Follower Retaining Screw 52 Grip Screws (2) 53 Grip Junction Screw.

Plastic Grip 54 Grip Junction Screw, Wood Grip 55 Grip Junction Screw Bushing 56 Magazine Spacer 57 Plastic Grip 58 Wood Grip stalling this pin to prevent it from coming out. Reinstall the barrel weight bar lock screw (3) located at the muzzle end of the weight bar. I also used blue Loctite on this screw as the factory had used a locking agent as evidenced by a spot found on the screw threads.

When installing the grip panels, tilt the grip panels at an angle towards the front of the grip area and make sure when seating they lay flush on the receiver. Replace the screws. Failure to do this might crack a stock panel while replacing the screws. The pistol can now be reassembled fully by inserting the slide on the barrel/weight bar and then installing the recoil spring guide (14) and recoil spring (13). Slide the barrel/weight bar assembly back onto the receiver and seat all the way to the rear.

You may have to bump it back into place with a rubber-tipped hammer or piece of wood. Finally, pull the slide to the rear so that you can turn the disassembly catch (31) back rearwards into place to securely hold the slide assembly on the gun. That completes this job. I would take caution using harsh solvents when cleaning the weight bar area as it is made of aluminum and has a sprayed-on coating. Just use oil if need be.

The breech area collects lots of powder residue, as does the slide catch lug inside of the frame. I would clean it after each shooting outing to be safe. The firing pin does not appear to reach the rear of the chamber at full protrusion but I would never dry fire a rimfire without a snap cap in place. Finally, since parts are nearly extinct, at least here in the United States, you may want to re-think using this as an everyday shooter.

And as always with semi-automatic pistols, keep a watchful eye out for original tenround magazines and grab them when you can as I suspect they will become even harder to locate. This pistol worked very well afterwards, most likely due to the deep scrub cleaning it received and adjustments. It was fun to shoot, very accurate, and is no doubt a collectible! AG