Basic Air-Gun Repair

The first handgun I owned was a Crosman air gun. It was also the first handgun I worked on, and the first I made a mess of. It was an inexpensive lesson, but one that has stuck with me. A .22-caliber pellet gun modeled after the Colt Single Action Army, this handgun was fertile ground for experimentation. I went about it contrary to instruction and soon learned that a steel rod does not mix will with an aluminum barrel.

Over the intervening 30-some years, I’ve worked on, adjusted, and enjoyed quite a few air-powered arms. Some of the air guns we see today are not inexpensive, and all of them occasionally need adjustment. They are well suited to informal target shooting, training, and even hunting small game. I have used air guns inside the home on occasion; no smoke, odor, or noise combined with an effective backstop can make for a pleasant evening.

In this article, I’ll look at some of the problems that come up with the better-quality air guns, along with the proper procedure for rectifying these problems. The skirted pellet is known for leaving lead deposits. Consequently, the most common problem with pellet guns is lead build-up in the barrel from these soft-lead pellets. Most barrels are aluminum, and care must be taken in cleaning them. A soft patch of .17- or .22-caliber, whichever is appropriate, should be used.

Avoid using a steel rod and whatever you do, don’t use a brass brush in an aluminum barrel. A nylon brush works well, and when used with Birchwood Casey solvent will produce excellent results. Quality air guns are often supplied with some type of cleaning gear, but air-gun-specific cleaning gear is available, and should be used if possible. The majority of air guns are powered by a spring. In simple terms, a piston is compressed and holds a charge of compressed air.

When the sear or trigger is tripped, the air is released into a very small opening and this charge of air drives either a spherical BB or a flat pellet from the barrel. Occasionally, a spring may need to be replaced, but in my experience, the most common difficulty with these guns is the deterioration of the washers that seal the compressed-air piston. While instructions supplied with most air guns tell us to lightly oil certain parts of the gun, I have found that oil can destroy leather washers.

Fortunately, leather washers are seldom seen in the newer models. If required, replacement washers can easily be made from old leather belts or even old, worn holsters. Simply cut and trim the section to the appropriate size with a razor knife. Many air guns now use C0 car- 2 tridges. Once considered less accurate than spring-type guns, the modern C0 types give excellent results, at 2 least in plinking type activity. Seals occasionally need to be replaced, and Both are produced to high standards.

the ring that seals the piercing mechanism can become worn. One problem that commonly occurs with C0 guns is a pellet stuck in 2 the barrel. This occurs when the gas cylinder runs down. There is enough gas to press the pellet into the barrel but not out of the barrel. When the pellet becomes stuck, a magnificent jam can occur if the shooter does not notice and continues to fire the gun. Revolver-type air guns can suffer a jam between the cylinder and the barrel that is difficult to clear.

The only means of clearing this jam is to run a cleaning rod into the barrel and press the pellet back into the firing chamber. Care must be taken. Too abrupt a push and the pellet can ram against the air jet of Smith & Wessontype air guns, cocking it to one side. While it is usually easily realigned, the possibility of permanent damage is great. Deformed pellets are also among the common causes of air-gun malfunctions. Some are easily cleared, but more finesse than elbow grease is usually needed.

The Smith & Wesson-type of airgun has both singleand double-action firing capability, and features a hand and ratchet like a cartridge revolver. It is a precision instrument that is quite accurate and reliable. Standard timing procedures can be followed with these air guns. I would not attempt to lighten the action, however; the moving parts are of "pot metal" or aluminum. Only light, careful polishing is acceptable, although this can yield surprising results.

The single-action Crosman pistols take action polishing better, but again care must be taken to avoid cutting too deeply or destroying light metal parts. There are proper tools for changing barrels and sights of airguns. When turning the crank that changes Smith & Wesson air gun barrels, move the barrel to a tight position but don’t overtighten. The threads are easily stripped. These air guns are quite strong and capable, but will not take the pounding a true firearm will.

Quite a few air guns, including the Smith & Wesson, have adjustable sights and interchangeable sight blades. The rules that apply to cartridge firearms in sight alignment also apply to air guns, of course. When considering air gun triggers, keep in mind that the C0 types use 2 the trigger as a valve. They allow a little compressed air to escape from the seal to drive the projectile from

the barrel. So, in proper terms, the trigger is a kind of hinge for the valve. If all of the hinged parts and valves do not properly work together, gas can escape at the wrong time or not at all. Remember that most of these pieces must not be oiled. This is a warning with oxygen equipment, torches, and other valved gear. No oil! In this case, the worst that could happen is probably a cold hand from gas release, but the gun will not function properly.

Parts not related directly to valving, such as the pivoting trigger action, on the other hand, can be lightly oiled. Conclusions There are many types of air guns, but the basics are the same. Of all the problems I’ve seen, a ruined bore is the most common in my experience. This comes from pellets jammed in the barrel and rough treatment in clearing them. Too many shooters try and get the last bit of gas from a cartridge.

This can result in a pellet not sufficiently propelled down the bore, or even two stuck in the bore. A properly gauged wooden dowel can be used to carefully tap the pellets from the bore, but as previously mentioned a cleaning rod can serve. Be careful, as the pellets can come apart when this is done. You will also note that the barrels of some pellet guns and almost all BB guns tend to gather rust with age. The solution is to lightly clean these with repetitive solvent application, and to keep them oiled.

Yes, you can lightly oil the bore of air guns for longevity. The proper care of air guns is important, but once they find their way to the gunsmith something has happened. While air guns vary a great deal, most are lightly constructed. A careless fall can result in a severe dent that will ruin the mechanisms. A box of valves is not a very expensive investment for the gunsmith, but the most troublesome guns’t he cheap ones’are often not worth the cost of repair.

Nevertheless, while not the most lucrative business, air gun repair is another aspect of your business that should not be ignored. I