Getting a Grip on Older Colt D-Frame Revolvers

Large numbers of Colt’s old longgrip Detective Special and Police Positive Special revolvers are still in circulation, and the most frequent request I get when one comes in is for better grips. Pickings are pretty slim, however, when it comes to aftermarket grips, especially for the squarebutt models. Fortunately, it’s not very difficult to modify the grip frame to accommodate the grips designed for the later-model D-frames.

Before you consider this modification, first do a bit of checking on the revolver to make sure it’s not a priceless collectible. Seriously, it never hurts to do a quick search through the book so that you don’t unknowingly chop up a rare Banker’s Special that should be occupying a display case. Assuming you have a garden-variety revolver such as the Police Positive Specials used for this article, begin by opening the cylinder and ensuring that the revolver is not loaded.

Once you see six clear holes, remove the grips and use a suitable punch to remove the grip-locator pin. You can put the pin in your spare-parts collection, since grips for the newer Dframes use a different pin. Now look to see which type of grip-frame opening the revolver has. If it’s like the upper gun in the photo at the top of page 8, count your blessings and get out your saw. Proceed as per Type 1, below. If your frame is like the lower gun in the same photo, all is not lost; it just takes a bit more work.

In that case, get out your saw and epoxy bedding compound, and proceed as per Type 2. Type 1: Round Hole in Grip Frame This procedure is basically the same thing that Colt did in 1971 (or 1973, depending on whose information you use) when they shortened the grip on all D-frame revolvers and added the ejector-rod shroud. Start by scribing a line across the grip frame parallel with the bottom and just under the hole. Using a hacksaw or band saw, cut the bottom of the frame off, leaving the line.

Now you can use a file or a belt sander to finish the cut as close From top to bottom are the round-butt long grip, the square-butt long grip, and the new short square-butt grip.

The revolver on top was made in 1955, and has the small-hole, square-butt frame. The bottom one was made in 1950 and is the large-hole-type frame. (This revolver has been round-butted; it was originally a square-butt gun.) Note that Colt’s idea of a "round butt" is somewhat different from S&W’s. to the hole as you can without actually breaking into the hole. Break the sharp corners on the outside of the grip frame slightly. Scribe another line across the rear section of the frame about 0.190 inch from the bottom.

Measuring from the rear point of the grip frame, cross this This frame is also marked for the new grip-locator pin hole. 0.600-inch length, and insert through the hole until it protrudes equally from each side. Touch-up blue the raw surfaces. To ensure that the grips fit snugly, you can fill the hole in the frame with bedding epoxy and use the grips as a template to mark the epoxy. Drill a line with a perpendicular line about 0.390 inch, and drill the spot for a 1/8-inch roll pin.

If you’re really good and possibly a little lucky, you can eyeball this spot, using the new grips. Cut the 1/8inch roll pin to a suitable hole through the epoxy once it has set up. Depending on the type and style of new grip panels, it may be necessary to relieve the grips where they fit up next to the trigger guard. You may also need to fill the new grips in the area behind the hammer, as subtle differences sometimes exist here as well.

Use black silicone rubber to fill this area on rubber grips, and epoxy dyed to match the grip (or dyed black to match the frame) for wooden grips. Type 2: Large Hole in Grip Frame This procedure is just a bit different from the round-hole guns, but accomplishes the same thing. First, use a rotary tool to cut dimples into and roughen up the upper inside area of the grip frame, just as if you were preparing a rifle stock for bedding.

Clean the inside of the hole thoroughly with brake cleaner or chlorinated solvent to ensure good adhesion. Put apiece of duct tape on one side of the frame. Mix a suitable amount of epoxy (dye it black if desired) and fill the hole to just above level, ensuring

No release agent is required, as any adhesive from the tape will clean off with solvents once the epoxy has cured. Overfill the hole a bit to ensure that both sides of the new grip frame can be sanded or filed flat. that it gets into the dimples and grooves. Allow the epoxy to cure until it is hard enough to stay put but soft enough to cut. This will be about four hours with Brownells Acra-Glas or Steel-Bed. Now remove the duct tape, and examine the epoxy plug.

Small voids or cavities are okay, but if any large holes are present, you’ll need to fill them and wait for the patch to cure. When all is well, use a wood rasp or coarse file to remove the excess epoxy from both sides, and remove any stray It’s been finish-sanded and marked for cutting. The difference in the distance of the front strap to the trigger guard is clearly visible here. (continued on page 15) bits of epoxy that don’t belong where they are.

After the epoxy is fully cured, file or sand the excess off until the epoxy is flush with the grip frame on both sides. Now scribe a line across the grip frame parallel with and 0.650 inch up from the bottom. Cut the grip frame off, leaving the line, and test-fit the new grips to the gun.

Depending on the type and style of new grip panels, it will probably be necessary to relieve the grips where they fit up next to the trigger guard on this grip frame design, as there is less room between the trigger guard and the front of the grip strap than on the later models. The difference is shown in the photos. These older-style frames

may also require some filling of the new grips in the area behind the hammer. Use black silicone rubber to fill this area on rubber grips, and epoxy dyed to match the grip (or dyed black to match the frame) for wooden grips. Adjust the bottom of the grip frame by filing or sanding until it fits into the grips. Break the sharp corners on the outside of the grip frame slightly.

Use a detent ball larger than the locator hole in the new grips or make a short pointed punch from apiece of music wire, drill rod, or what-have-you. This should be large enough in diameter to be a close fit in the new grips’ locatorpin hole and 0.160-inch long. Place the pin in one of the holes and put the grip on the gun, adjusting for the best fit.

If you press hard on the pin area of the grip, when the grip panel is removed you will see the indent in the epoxy where you need to drill a 1/8-inch hole and insert a 0.600-inch-long 1/8-inch roll pin until it protrudes equally from both sides. Use one of the new grips as a marking template to locate the screw hole and drill to suit. A bit of touch-up blue is then applied to the raw surfaces. And Finally… If you’ve been careful, there should be no need to disassemble the revolver for cleaning.

You can ensure that no debris enters the lockwork by stuffing a couple of cotton balls or something similar into the action area, as seen in the photos. Probably the best stuff to use for the filler is Brownells Steel-Bed. It dyes black fairly well and is my first choice when I need a filler that will have to withstand some abuse. This is a relatively invisible modification, as almost all of the grips for the stubby Dframes cover the bottom of the grip frame.

A couple of final notes here: If you goof any part of this up, just fill in the area with epoxy and start over. If the new grips are loose and/or shift around on the grip frame, you can use epoxy or silicone rubber to fill spaces in the grips. Most release agents work for silicone rubber as well as epoxy. This procedure also works for the early short-butt guns. They have a slightly longer grip frame than the late models, and the locator pin is in a different place.

Depending on what grips your customer wants, modifying the grip frame may be easier than modifying the grips. I