Working the New NAA Guardian Pistols

Physically, the new versions of the NAA Guardian are the same size as the older versions’like that of any small-caliber concealedcarry pistol. And the little auto-loader still comes in .32 and .380 ACP calibers, neither of which are considered "bone crunchers." So what’s happened to the Guardian that sets it apart? Actually, nothing has happened to it mechanically, but plenty has happened to its ammunition. The new Guardian comes in .25 NAA and .32 NAA calibers. Still kind of puny, you say?

Well, let’s look at the difference between "ACP" and "NAA." A typical .25 ACP factory load pushes a 50-grain FMJ out the muzzle at about 810 fps and produces 73 foot-pounds of energy. The .25 NAA, however, takes a .32-caliber case and necks it down to hold a .25caliber 35-grain JHP. And ah-ha! The muzzle velocity jumps to 1,200 fps and energy to 112 foot-pounds. The .32 ACP with a 71-grain FMJ doesn’t do much better at 850 fps and 100 foot-pounds.

But the .32 NAA, which is a .380 case necked down to deliver a .32-caliber 60-grain JHP produces over 1,200 fps and 192 foot-pounds of energy. So the .25 and .32 NAA rounds aren’t so puny after all’especially if you’re one of those who subscribes to the theory that the three most important factors in ballistics are velocity, velocity, and velocity. Adding to the difference in these new NAA cartridges is the fact that they were developed by Corbon. You’ve heard of Corbon ammo, I’m sure.

The name Corbon comes from a process developed by Peter R. Pi that bonds the lead core of a bullet to its copper jacket to deliver higher weight retention and deeper penetration. The company that evolved from the cartridge has an enviable list of achievements. Among them is the Corbon 9mm+P 115 grain JHP, the 400 Corbon, the 440 Corbon, and the .450 and .500 S&W Magnums.

Six years ago, the company added to its family of cartridges by purchasing Glaser Safety Slug of California, whose pre-fragmented ammunition is the round of choice for the U. S. Sky Marshall program. Three years ago, Peter Pi was awarded a patent for his latest brain- Kahr does the machining on these components for North American Arms. child’t he Pow RBall. These unique rounds, .380 auto to .45 auto +P, have a copper jacket bonded to a hollowpoint lead core that’s topped by a polymer ball.

They hit like a FMJ (or harder), expand like a JHP, and feed with 100-percent efficiency in the most finicky of pistols. The cooperation with Mr. Pi and

The parts comprising the system are included on the drawing and, when engaged, make it impossible to fire the pistol. Control its movement forward as it separates itself from the frame. When the slide has totally cleared the frame, the recoil-spring assembly should drop out. If it doesn’t, tilt the frame/barrel assembly down and tap the end of the frame on your bench top. Detailed Disassembly Insert a 1/8-inch punch through the firing-pin retainer (#4) to depress the firing pin (#3).

Push the retainer down with the tip of the punch enough to capture the firing pin. Pull out the punch and then slide the retainer down and out of the slide. Pick the firing pin and its spring (#5) from their tunnel in the slide. The extractor (#6) is retained in the slide by its plunger (#7), and you’ll need to make a special tool to disengage these two parts. Take a 3/16-inch piece of drill rod about 2 inches long and grind or file a flat on one end.

The plunger has a flat, too, and the reworked end of the drill rod is what you’ll use to depress the plunger and give it half a turn. This will release the North American Arms Guardian Semi-Automatic Pistol (Specifications subject to change without notice) 1 Frame 2 Slide 3 Firing Pin 4 Firing Pin Retainer 5 Firing Pin Spring 6 Extractor 7 Extractor Plunger 8 Extractor Plunger Spring 9 Clip Release Body 10 Clip Release Retainer 11 Clip Release Spring extractor.

The extractor is removed by lifting it up and away from the slide. The plunger is under a certain amount of pressure exerted by its spring (#8) and could pop out once the extractor is removed. If it doesn’t, tip the slide up and tap it on your bench. In most cases, the plunger and spring will fall free. If they don’t, they’re probably fouled in place.

Then you’ll have to go in after them with a dental pick or other small tool. 12 Hammer 13 Hammer Push Rod 14 Hammer Push Rod Spring Pin 15 Rubber Washer 16 Hammer Pin 17 Main Spring Pin 18 Hammer Spring Follower 19 Hammer Spring 20 Hammer Spring Plug 21 Slide Release Button 22 Slide Release Button Spring 23 Slide Release Spring Pin 24 Slide Release Bearing 25a Magazine 25b Magazine Finger Rest 26 Trigger 27 Drawbar 28 Drawbar Spring 29 Cover 30 Recoil Spring Large 31 Recoil Spring Small 32 Cover Bolt 33 Guide Rod 34 Grips 35 Grip Screws 36 E-clip The hammer pin (#16) is slightly elongated to accept an Eor C-clip retainer (#36).

You can pop it off with a small-blade screwdriver. Getting the clip back on won’t be that easy. You’ll definitely need a set of C-ring/E-ring pliers like the ones shown in the photo. Don’t remove the hammer pin just yet. You’re not through with the frame/ barrel assembly. Part #32 on the schematic is identified as the "cover bolt." It’s not a

The clip can be popped off easily with a small straight-blade screwdriver. bolt; it’s a screw. Turn it out counterclockwise to release the frame cover (#29). Once you’ve lifted the cover away, you’ll get a really good look at what lies ahead. It includes the drawbar (#27), drawbar spring (#28), trigger (#26), part of the hammer-spring (mainspring) follower (#18), and the hammer push rod (#13)"more commonly known as a hammer strut. Take advantage of the good look you’re getting.

Notice how the L-shaped end of the drawbar spring fits into the bottom of the hammer. Also note how the looped end of the spring is captured between the cover bolt and cover, as well as how the spring and trigger interrelate. If you have a Polaroid or digital camera, I suggest you snap a photo of how the parts are arranged in the frame; you might need it as a reference for reassembly. Now go ahead and remove the aforementioned parts and then lift off the trigger’t he trigger, not the trigger pin.

It’s press-fit in place. It’s possible you could drive it out and you could get it back in with an arbor press, but you’d risk damaging the frame. It’s best to leave it alone and turn your attention to the hammer. (It’s still under spring tension.) With a 1/8inch punch, a bench block, and a fourounce hammer, drift the pin (#16) downward and leave the punch in. Stand the frame up on its butt or secure it between protected vise jaws and drive out the mainspring pin (#17).

Be ready to catch the hammer-spring follower (#18), the spring (#19), and the spring plug (#20) as they fall out. It’s okay to pull the punch now so you can lift the hammer (#12) and pushrod (#13) from the frame. Only two subassemblies remain. The first is the magazine release (#9, 10, & 11). Press in halfway on the button, and turn the screw counterclockwise. The whole assembly comes out then. The second, and final, group to be removed is the slide release (#21), its spring (#22), and bearing (#24).

This entire assembly is retained by the slide-release spring pin (#23) located in front of the hammer and on top of the frame/barrel assembly. It’s possible to drift this roll upwards by putting a 30-degree bend in a roll-pin punch. (The bend is needed because of the angled magazine well.) If you’d rather not mess up a good roll-pin punch, drift the pin downward until the slide-release assembly can be taken out. But don’t drift the pin totally out.

In reassembly, the pin can be aligned with its cutout in the release by carefully attacking it with an untouched roll-pin punch from inside the magazine well. Care must be taken since the gun has to rest on its barrel during this operation, but if you leave some of the pin in its frame hole you can get it back in without damage to the pistol or the punch. The Guardian I worked with here was not equipped with an internal locking system, but parts for the system are shown in the schematic.

Reassembly Tips What you removed last goes back in first. Follow this by dropping in the hammer subassembly and installing the hammer pin. To reinstall the hammer spring, preassemble parts #18, 19, and 20, and insert them into the grip tunnel. The hammer push rod (strut) must be seated in the follower. Press down on the follower to align the hole in the mainspring plug with its hole in the grip frame, and push pin #17 through.

If there’s anything fussy in reassembling the Guardian it’s with the cover and its associated parts. The trigger goes in first, and the draw bar connected to the trigger and the cover screw are started in. Position the screw over the loop in the drawbar spring. Capture the spring and cover by partially tightening the screw. Engage the L-shaped hook on the spring with the hammer prior to tightening down the screw and securing your work.

Find those C-clip/E-clip pliers, install the clip on the hammer pin, screw on the grips, and cycle the pistol with dummy rounds. The Guardian isn’t complex. Keep it clean, remove internal burrs, and it will easily live up to its name. I