Working the Browning Lever-Action BL-17

I won’t get any arguments about how the Hornady V-Max .17-caliber bullet has turned the firearms industry on its ear. When it first showed up in a necked-down .22 Magnum case as the .22 HMR, its speed and accuracy all but totally derailed the .22 WMR. When it comes to velocity and accuracy, there is no comparison between the traditional .22 roundnose or hollowpoint pellets and the smaller, sharply-tipped V-Max.

Due to the popularity of the new round, a scramble was set off among gun manufacturers to get .17 HMR chamberings flowing off production lines. It’s too bad that one classic—the Winchester 9422M—was deemed no longer competitive with the smaller Magnum and was discontinued. (No, mine isn’t for sale and never will be.) That was only the beginning. Someone, perhaps a Hornady engineer if not Steve Hornady himself, figured the little V-Max would be equally successful in a .22 LR case.

Because of its higher internal capacity, the chosen case was the same one used for the CCI .22 Stinger. After being necked down for the V-Max, it became the .22 Mach 2, or Mach II, and the scramble was on all over again for all the same reasons. Among the problems encountered in overhauling .22 LR designs for the Mach 2 was the ballistic tip of the bullet.

In clip-fed bolt-actions or semi-autos stripping cartridges from clips, no insurmountable changes were called for other than providing heavier bolts, larger receivers to accommodate the bolts, and altering springs in semi-autos. And fresh barrels, of course, were required for any gun undergoing the downsizing. With tubular magazines, it was a different story. The tubes had an I. D. of .22 caliber to accommodate the case.

The smaller tip of the V-Max showed a decided tendency to poke its pointy nose between the inner Where the two rifles differ markedly is in the design of their magazines. 22-caliber clip-fed action to a .17-caliber hot shot. wall of the tube and the rear rim of the cartridge in line ahead of it. Jams, jams, and more jams resulted within magazine tubes and nothing got fed back into the receiver.

At least one manufacturer solved this problem very neatly by converting its tubular-feed semi-auto design into a clip-feed. But wait a second, you say. Why all this talk about the V-Max and a headline promising information on a BL-17 when the schematic shows a BL-22? I admire your perceptiveness, but there is a method to my apparent madness. It is simply this: The BL-22 and BL-17 are taken down, reassem

bled, and their possible malfunctions corrected in the same manner. Their action parts are identical, including the carrier. Where the two rifles differ, besides their chamberings, is in the design of the tubular magazine. The BL-22 employs a setup with which you are no doubt familiar—an outer tube surrounding the magazine, follower, and follower spring, which are removed as a unit. The outer tube is held to the receiver by a screw (#42).

The BL-17 magazine is held captive in an adapter in the receiver with the same screw, but the outer tube slides forward, taking the follower and follower spring with it. The magazine tube itself is left attached. I’ll restate that in terms of loading the rifles. With the BL-22, the inner magazine/spring/follower assembly slides from the outer tube until the magazine loading port in the outer tube is cleared to accept cartridges.

With the BL-17, the outer tube slides forward until the spring and follower have cleared the loading port in the magazine tube. There’s plenty of engineering math explaining this "upside down" approach, and I’m not up to it. All I’ll say is that the system works. The V-Max doesn’t get nosey in the tubular magazine of a BL-17.

Stripping Down for Cleaning-Plus For this type of clean up, I always remove the wooden stock of a rifle or shotgun and grips of the same material on handguns to protect them from contact with solvents. Consider doing the same so you can liberally flush out receivers and trigger mechanisms with little concern. As always, make sure the gun is empty, you’re wearing eye protection, and there’s no live ammo nearby before setting to work. Place the rifle, inverted, in a padded vise, gripping it in the forearm area.

Back out the buttplate screws (#07) and remove the plate (#06). Look down in the stock hole with the help of a flashlight to determine what type of head lies in waiting on the stock bolt (#59). The amount of space existing between the head and the wood must also be checked out. If you go after a slotted bolt head with the nearest screwdriver, you could wedge the blade between the bolt head and the wood. Turning a blade so entrapped can crack the wood.

If the bolt head is hexagonal, you could do the same if you attempt to forcefeed a socket into the stock. If you can’t find a thin-wall socket, grind down the outer diameter of one that fits the bolt head, so that it makes no contact with the stock. Open the action by swinging the lever (#15 or 16) downward. With the BL-17, turn the outer magazine cap clockwise and slide it from the magazine until it comes to a stop against the muzzle clamp (#47).

With the BL-22, depress the latch at the knurled end of the inner magazine assembly and completely remove it toward the muzzle. Clean the barrel. The next step will underscore the need for stock/grip removal. Hold the rifle with its action tilted downward over a bucket. Using an aerosol can of Birchwood Casey’s Gunscrubber or a spray bottle filled with gun solvent or mineral spirits, generously flush out the action. Using the same fluid, spray some into the magazine tube to clear it of any residue.

Blow dry and check for any remaining gunk and, if necessary, repeat what you’ve just done. Your goal is a barrel with a bright bore and an action that produces no detectable gritty feel whatsoever. That’s what I mean by "cleaning-plus" and it’s worth a few bucks extra because it will take you about 10 to 20 minutes more than the basic once-over-lightly.

Detailed Disassembly As you continue stripping the rifle, figure out a method for identifying the various small springs you’ll be removing so they don’t get mixed up in reassembly. Once again, don’t be confused by the schematic. I’ve admitted that it’s of a BL-22 instead of a BL-17. The reason: There were no schematics of the .17 when this was written, and none appeared in the owner’s manual for the rifle. Already explained is that both rifles take down the same except for their tubular feed assemblies.

Also note that you’ll find two part numbers appearing here and there. Stay calm. They’re only used because one of them applies to a Grade I and the other to a Grade II rifle. They have nothing to do with where the parts live or their function. One example of this is the takedown screw (#62, 63). It backs out from the right side of the receiver (#49, 50). If the screw resists coming all the way out, gently tap the rear of the frame (#34) forward.

Place the hammer at half-cock and open the action until the rear of the bolt aligns with the front of the hammer. This disengages the locking block (#38) from the receiver. The frame assembly can now be removed by pulling it straight to the rear. In this process, the ejector (#21) and ejector spring (#23) might fall out. If they don’t, lift the ejector and its spring clear of the pin (#22). This pin is built into the receiver and should not be removed.

To separate the bolt (#01) from the frame, move it forward, lift it free, and slide the locking block out of the bolt assembly. The firing-pin retain

01 Bolt* 02 Bolt Actuating Pin 03 Bolt Assembly Kit* 04 Bolt Cover Plate 05 Bolt Cover Pin 06 Butt Plate 07 Butt Plate Screws 08 Butt Stock, Grade I 09 Butt Stock, Grade II 10 Carrier 11 Carrier Guide Pin 12 Carrier Pin 13 Carrier Spacer (not shown)* 14 Carrier Spring 15 Cocking Lever, Grade I* 16 Cocking Lever, Grade II* ing pin (#28) is drifted out using a 3/32-inch-diameter punch. This frees the firing pin (#27) and its spring (#29).

When and if servicing of the extractor is required, the bolt coverplate (#04) has to be taken off by inserting a screwdriver in the locking-bolt slot and gently prying upward on the plate.

The extractor (#24), spring (#26), and plunger (#25) are accessed by 17 Cocking Lever Pin 18 Cocking Lever Stop Screw 19 Cocking Lever Link 20 Cocking Lever Link Pin 21 Ejector 22 Ejector Pin 23 Ejector Spring 24 Extractor 25 Extractor Plunger 26 Extractor Spring 27 Firing Pin 28 Firing Pin Retaining Pin 29 Firing Pin Spring 30 Forearm, Grade I 31 Forearm, Grade II inserting the blade of a small screwdriver under the extractor and prying it outward.

The spring and plunger will want to fly out of the bolt body unless they’re fouled in place. A plastic bag placed over the bolt as you work will prevent their loss. Check the bolt-activating pin (#02) and the lower center edge of the bolt.

Unless the edge is broken or worn, 32 Forearm Band 33 Forearm Band Pin 34 Frame* 35 Frame Insert Pin 36 Hammer Assembly* 37 Hammer Pin 38 Locking Block 39 Lock Insert (not shown) 40 Magazine Assembly 41 Magazine Tube, Outer 42 Magazine Tube Retaining Screw 43 Mainspring* 44 Mainspring Follower* 45 Mainspring Guide* 46 Mainspring Guide Pin 47 Muzzle Clamp 48 Muzzle Clamp Screw 49 Receiver w/ itted Barrel, Grade I** 50 Receiver w/ itted Barrel, Grade II** 51 Sear* 52 Sear Link* 53 Sear Link Pin 54 Sear Link Spring 55 Sear Pin 56 Sight, Front 57 Rear Sight Tension Spring (not shown) 58 Rear Sight Assembly 59 Stock Bolt 60 Stock Bolt Lock Washer 61 Stock Bolt Washer 62 Take Down Screw, Grade I 63 Take Down Screw.

Grade II 64 Trigger, Grade I* 65 Trigger, Grade II* 66 Trigger Pin 67 Trigger and Sear Spring *Factory or authorized-gunsmith service only. **FFL required. leave the pin alone. A damaged bolt should be replaced, and there are two kinds of bolts. Anew-style bolt has a firing-pin slot measuring about .070 inch wide in its face. Old-style slots are about .100 inch wide. Since old-style bolts and firing pins are no longer available from Browning, both components must be replaced if either is damaged.

There is no interchangeability between the old and the new. This doesn’t always result in your having to hunt down replacements in the aftermarket or to arm wrestle Browning for anew bolt. Sometimes, the thing messing with firing pin travel is merely a burr in the bolt face. This you can stone out and polish. After a close look at the locking block for signs of wear, move on to the frame assembly. You’re almost ready to drift out the carrier pin (#12) left to right with a 1/8-inch punch.

On the schematic, you’ll see an unnumbered part immediately to the rear of the carrier (#10). This part is identified as a carrier spacer (#13) on the parts list. It only shows up on older BL-22 rifles. Newer rifles in both calibers are equipped with a hammer block (a.k.a., "carrier spacer") which is not shown at all in the drawing. It’s recommended, therefore, that you thoroughly memorize the relationships between the spacer, carrier, and carrier spring (#14) before removing them from the frame.

After you have, and only then, drift out the carrier pin and carrier-guide pin (#11). The same methodology should be followed if you encounter an older BL-22 equipped with apart #13. For primary cocking lever and trigger disassembly (see Figures 1, 2, and 3), the hammer must be lowered fully to its fired position prior to drifting out the cocking-lever link pin (#20) left to right.

Do the same with the cocking-lever pin (#17), then take out the cocking-lever link (#19), mainspring (#43), and mainspring follower (#44). Figure 1. Drift out the hammer pin (#37) and sear pin (#55) left to right. Leaving the hammer’s mainspring guide (#45) attached, remove the hammer assembly (#36), sear (#51), and trigger/sear spring (#67). There’s no real need to back out the lever-stop screw (#18) unless a replacement is called for.

Complete the cocking-lever disassembly as follows: Drift the trigger pin (#66) and sear-link pin (#53) left to right with your 3/32-inch punch. Remove the trigger assembly (#64, 65) followed by the sear link (#52) and sear-link spring (#54). Everything’s out of the frame now, and you’re holding a gutted receiver. Still attached are the barrel, forearm, tubular feed elements, sights, muzzle clamp, and forearm band.

After drifting out the front sight right to left with a brass punch, back out the clamp screw (#48) and slide the muzzle clamp (#47) off the barrel. On a BL-17, this step is necessary before you can clear the upper, outer tube from the rifle. On a BL-22, it gives you access to the lower, outer tube. The forearm (#30, 31) is retained on the rifle with the forearm band (#32).

Drifting the band pin (#33) left to right frees up the forearm and leaves you with either a magazine (BL-17) or outer tube (BL-22) still attached to the receiver. They are each taken off by removing their retaining screw (#42). Inspection of Parts There will never be a better time to examine several components which may, or may not, need replacement. Figure 2. Thoroughly go over all the pieces taken from the cocking-lever assembly for signs of wear, deformation, or alteration.

Pay special attention to the lever itself. If it’s bent, the rifle may not lock up completely. Unfortunately, it’s pretty difficult to determine whether or not a lever is bent without making aside-by-side comparison between it and an unused one. In any event, never attempt to straighten out a bent lever; install anew one. See that both studs of the cocking lever link are intact and tight. If loose, missing, or if the link itself is bent, anew link will have to be fitted. I’ll get into how that’s done directly.

Don’t overlook the possibility of frame cracks in the area of the stock bolt, and make sure the insert pin (#35) is seated firmly and intact. Adjusting the Cocking-Lever Link If the Browning’s link has to be replaced, fitting it will be required. With the cocking lever closed, depress the carrier and position the carrier-guide pin under the front end of the cocking-lever link. If the pin won’t fit under the link, maintain the hammer in the half-cock position and fully close the lever.

Remove the link pin left to right. You open the lever only enough to remove the link, then close it again. Remove material from the link at the point of interference. Usually, this means from the pointed end rearward about 1/4 inch. When properly adjusted, there should be about .030-inch clearance when the guide pin is under the link, as well as between the link and the cocking lever when the lever is completely closed. Figure 3.

Reassembly Tips The Bolt Assembly. After placing the firing-pin spring in the bolt horizontally, install the firing pin and its retaining pin. Check for free movement and return to the rear by the firing pin under pressure from the spring. In the following order, place the spring, plunger, and extractor in the bolt. Hold the extractor against the bolt with your thumb and push the part into its bolt recess with a 1/8-inch punch. The Cocking Lever.

Position the trigger/sear spring into its hole in the top of the trigger-slot cutout in the lever. Insert the trigger, align all pin holes, install the pin, and stake it in place to avoid loosening. Place the searlink spring, small end upward, in its recess atop the trigger. Orient the sear link above the spring, compress the spring with the link, and install the link pin. (As you’ve discovered, it’s a roll pin, and I should have mentioned this sooner. They’re a pain to reinstall and they’re easily damaged.

I always advise, wherever possible, not to remove them completely but only enough to free the part they retain.) The Hammer and Sear. The sear is to be placed in the frame with the trigger/ sear-spring hole to the rear and the sear’s rounded edge upward. Engage the spring and compress it with the sear. Maintain the pressure as you pull the hammer fully to the rear. Release the sear. The object of this somewhat fussy step is to have the hammer hold the spring compressed between the sear and the rear of the frame.

You can’t let go of the hammer just yet. The Cocking Lever and Link. The hammer is still being held to the rear. The cocking lever and cocking-lever link pins are started in right to left. Rotate the cocking lever downward and position the stud of the lever link in the elongated hole on the right side of the lever. Maintain that engagement, align all holes, and push the pins in to be flush. (I never said this would be easy.) Mainspring and Mainspring Follower.

Browning technicians use a special tool, unavailable to the public, to accomplish this assembly but you can do it by following these instructions to the letter: Hold the frame upright. Raise the end of the mainspring guide and place the mainspring on the guide. Holding the hammer assembly with its stud (guide) pointing downwards, introduce it into the frame from the top. Close the cocking lever.

Slowly push the hammer forward just enough to allow the bottom of the mainspring follower to align with its cocking-lever recess. "Encourage" the follower to enter the recess with a finger. When the follower drops in, put a slight rearward pressure on the hammer and open the cocking lever. Maintain the rearward pressure as you put your little finger to work nudging the mainspring upward to align it with the end of its guide. When they’re aligned, pull the hammer back to half-cock.

Keep the hammer in that position or the trigger/sear spring could get disengaged. You’d better be sure that spring remains positioned squarely between the sear and the back of the frame before closing the cocking lever. If it gets dislocated, the entire frame has to be disassembled/reassembled except for the sear. (Usually, this dislodging occurs because the hammer was allowed to slip forward during reinstallation of the mainspring-guide assembly.

But you wouldn’t let that happen, so close the cocking lever and get on with the job. The Bolt. Position the carrier-guide pin under the front end of the cocking-lever link. The rail on the leftfront end of the bolt is placed in its frame slot and the bolt lowered into the frame. It’s a good idea to check for any interference between the top of the locking block and the bottom of the bolt at this time. To make the check, fully cock the hammer and take a magnified look at the Browning’s block and bolt.

Soon thereafter, peek through its hole in the frame to assure yourself there’ll be no interference between the locking bolt and the take-down screw. If you suspect any trouble spots, relieve them carefully with a fine stone. The Ejector. The spring fits over the pin, and the ejector fits over the spring on the same pin. If you don’t find that getting these little bits back into the rifle isn’t a two-tranquilizer tweezer-assisted operation, I missed my guess.

Trouble: Possible Causes and Cures When a BL fails to feed and jams, the reasons include a bent cocking lever, burrs in the cartridge-head slot of the bolt face, a broken firing pin, and a burred chamber. Having already discussed what to do with a bent cocking lever, I’ll skip to a damaged bolt face. It can be smoothed up with very fine filing, stoning, and polishing. A broken firing pin is—surprise-surprise— replaced.

It might be possible to iron out any burrs raised at a chamber’s mouth, but an internally damaged chamber should be touched up with a .22-or .17-caliber sporting chamber finishing reamer. More often than not, failures to extract are due to broken or weakened extractor components or their improper installation. Other possibilities exist, however. The chamber might be too tight, too fouled, too large, or the bolt may not be locking up enough for the extractor to engage the shell rim.

Replace any broken parts along with any you suspect aren’t up to par. Clean and polish a dirty or pitted chamber, and caress it with your finishing reamer. If the chamber is enlarged, though, options become more complicated. Boring out the barrel then relining and rechambering it is one of those options. Rebarreling is another. Neither is inexpensive. All is not lost, yet. The cure for a bolt not fully closing might be as simple as filing down the cocking-lever stop pin.

Or, you may have to sleuth out exactly what’s causing the problem. Has a burr been raised on the bolt ways or bolt face? If so, stone it away. (continued on page 16)

A worst-case scenario would involve headspace, specified at .043 to .051 with commercially available gauges. (More about that condition in the following section on ruptured cases.) But if you have a current FFL, you can purchase a fresh receiver with fitted barrel. All it takes is a bit of your customer’s money. A rifle with a broken ejector pin, a worn ejector, or a missing ejector spring will fail to eject. None of those parts are restricted.

A rifle failing to cock indicates a missing or improperly positioned sear spring or possibly a weak sear spring. By the way, the latter can be replaced with a trigger spring. Ruptured cases are consistently traced to excessive headspace. Some times, they are due to ammunition. If the cases keep blowing out with several brands, you have to consider installing anew bolt. That won’t be easy. Bolts are on the restricted list at Browning.

Then again, you could make do with the existing bolt, remove the barrel, face off the receiver, shave the barrel shoulder, remarry the two major rifle components, and hopefully bid farewell to ruptured cases. To paraphrase a previous statement, all it takes is more of your customer’s money. The good news is deep pockets aren’t necessarily required to cure failures to fire. Replacing a broken firing pin or spring is no big deal.

Parts replacement gets a bit more expensive when a sear link isn’t making contact with a sear or when the cocking lever is bent. Let’s think on the positive side. For one reason or another, you’ve installed anew lever stop screw. That screw is protruding just enough to prevent the lever from fully locking up the bolt. As a result, the bolt is sitting too far back from the case head for the firing pin to impact the primed rim. You know what a possible cure is, but I’ll mention it again anyway.

File or stone the head of that screw down bit by bit until the lockup problem goes away and takes with it any failure to fire. Sometimes, you can get lucky. I’ve tried to give you a solid overview of servicing Browning small-bore lever-actions. As usual, if you have questions or need further clarification, call me on the Hot Line or send an email. ■