Working Hopkins & Allen Revolvers, Part 2

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This second part will examine H&A XL solid frame revolvers. by Brian R Smith In the last issue, the single action, spur trigger Hopkins & Allen revolvers were examined and disassembly procedures outlined. The second Hopkins & Allen revolver type under consideration is the XL solid frame, double action, extractor-less model and its similar H&A siblings. These were predominantly sold in .22, .32 and .38 caliber, and some were fitted with loading gates.

Less expensive models had only rounded loading grooves in the right side of the recoil shield, allowing clearance for cartridges to be inserted in and removed from the cylinder. On the larger-framed examples, H&A offered an optional extractor assembly mounted on the cylinder axis pin, making the revolver on 32 XL. Some had the little thumb button as shown, others employed a fingernail groove instead.

Not all XL and solid frame H&A models were so equipped; many featured a simple cartridge groove on the right side of the recoil shield. The XL featured this improvement which facilitated removal of the cylinder so that cartridges or cases could be readily extracted by fingernail or tool. This five-shot example is chambered in .32 S&Wand features a loading gate. which such an assembly was mounted appear not unlike a Colt Single Action Army.

The specific XL model described here is the solid frame H&A XL in .32 Short Colt featuring a hinged loading gate. It’s a small nickel-plated handgun featuring a hexagonal barrel and hard rubber grips. The other XL models are chambered in .38 S&Was well as .32 Short Colt with the .38s being proportionally larger. They resemble the smaller Harrington & Richardson New American and Victor revolvers. Take down of the solid-frame XL begins with removal of the cylinder from the frame.

This is performed by pressing the cylinder axis pin retaining lever inward while simultaneously withdrawing the cylinder axis pin. The retaining lever is found vertically on the forward end of the left side of the frame, in front of the cylinder window. The cylinder can then be removed from the right side of the frame. The cylinder axis pin retaining lever and its spring are removed by unscrewing the pivot screw from the front of the frame under the barrel. This screw is standard right-hand threaded.

Once the screw is loose, control the axis pin retaining lever with a thumb to prevent it and its spring from being launched across your shop. Next, the grips are removed by loosening the grip screw until it clicks. Pushing on the screw with the screwdriver still engaged, pop off the right side grip panel. The left grip panel can be removed by pushing from behind with a fingertip, punch, or screwdriver. Always

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Be aware of the coil spring in its circular recess in the latch lever mortise, indicated by the punch tip. refrain from prying grip panels off with a screwdriver as they can be dented or cracked and the frame scratched in the process.

With the grips removed from the frame and the hammer uncocked and forward against the frame, grasp the lower end of the S-shaped mainspring with needlenose pliers and pull it forward and then to either side to unseat it from Then use finger pressure on the inside center of the left grip panel to pop it loose. NEVER pry with a screwdriver or knife blade. the frame. Note that the seat for the upper end of the mainspring in the underside of the hammer will be marked by a slightly shiny notch or groove of sorts.

Also note that when working on a hammerless XL example, the mainspring is Vshaped with a heavier-sectioned length welded on and engaging the hammer. The other end is bent into a curve and engages the backstrap. Pay attention to its orientation as you grasp the curved end of the mainspring to remove it. Next, use a pin punch and bench block to remove the trigger guard by drifting out the forwardmost pin in the frame beneath the midpoint of the cylinder window from right to left.

Whenever possible I leave pins partially engaged in the frame so that I know which pin belongs in which hole and also so that I don’t lose them. With the front pin out, the trigger guard will pivot down at the front, assisted by the trigger reset V-spring. The rear of the trigger guard of this example has a projecting lip or tab that seats in a recess in the frame at the rear of the trigger guard slot. The trigger guard lifts down, forward, and out of the frame.

Note that earlier examples of H&A solid frame revolvers had a second pin retaining the rear of the trigger guard; on those models, drive it out as well. Back to this example, the rearmost pin is drifted out next and it secures the hammer rebound lever. Once freed, the rebound lever can be set aside. Remove the hammer by unscrewing its pivot screw. The hammer will need to be manipulated up and forward so that its "tail" will clear the frame at the rear of the hammer slot.

Once the tail clears, withdraw the hammer up and out of the frame. The trigger itself is next to be removed. Drift out the middle pin in the frame beneath the cylinder window. Once the pin clears the trigger, withdraw the trigger assembly down and out of the frame. This XL .32 is equipped with a loading gate that resides in a slot in the right side behind what would be the right recoil shield. The gate itself forms much of the right recoil shield and it is held in place by a screw at the bottom.

This loading gate pivot screw is tiny, flush fitting with the frame, and features a very narrow slot. The loading gate closure force is

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The trigger guard is retained on this particular model by the crosspin at the front and a hook at the rear which engages a recess in the frame. Removal of the middle crosspin allows for withdrawal of the trigger assembly, which includes the cylinder stop and hand. applied by a leaf spring that is in the loading gate’s slot. That leaf spring is in turn captured by a chrome-plated, flush-fitting, slotted screw at the top of the loading gate slot. This screw also has a tiny hole drilled in the head on this example.

It is not recommended to remove either the loading gate pivot screw or the loading gate spring retaining screw unless the Clockwise from 12 o’clock, cylinder, hammer/pawl assembly, hammer axis screw, mainspring, grips, grip screw, grip area of frame, rear crosspin, hammer rebound lever, trigger assembly with hand and cylinder stop, trigger axis crosspin, trigger reset V-spring, front crosspin, trigger guard (at bottom), cylinder axis pin latch lever (latch lever coil spring is in recess in frame), cylinder latch lever pivot screw, and cylinder axis pin.

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Also shown is a screwdriver removing the hammer axis screw. Above center: Closeup of trigger assembly showing the hand and the coil spring-loaded plunger that applies force to the lower end of the hand when assembled. Out of sight on top of the trigger assembly is the cylinder stop. This screw is tiny and is best left unmolested unless it is absolutely necessary to remove it. work that needs to be performed requires their removal. When reassembling, there are several key points to remember.

Install the trigger first. Position the hammer forward such that its tail clears the frame at the rear of the Again, removal of this screw is not recommended unless repairs require it. hammer slot and that the hand is properly in its slot as the hammer is lowered into place in the frame. Reinstall and position the hammer rebound lever against the trigger prior to carefully installing the trigger guard. Engage the lip at the rear of the trigger guard into the mating recess in the frame.

With the V-spring in place, rotate the front of the trigger guard up and in place against the V-spring force. While holding the trigger guard, drive in the front retaining pin. It can help to use a small spring clamp with protected jaws to hold the trigger guard in place. At this point, using thumb force against the hammer as a surrogate mainspring, manipulate the action to ensure that the lockwork is functional, indicating that the internal components are assembled in their proper relationship to each other.

Parts for these H&A revolvers were hand fitted and there are precious few parts available, even from long-established gun parts vendors. Remove only what you must in order to complete the job, while keeping in mind that any parts you disturb may be damaged in the process, being old, brittle, cast, and stuck fast with a century of dried oil and schmutz. Again, it is recommended that you disassemble to clean and perhaps perform light repairs to restore an example H&A revolver to functioning—if not shooting—condition.

Caution the customer that given the H&A’s cast iron frame, loose parts fit, likely worn condition, and the fact that all H&A revolvers were designed for black power loads, it is not recommended to fire them. AG