‘Slicking Up’ the Kel-Tec Semi-Automatic Pistol

When addressing the general problems encountered with certain handguns, it’s important to know something of their operating history. Some handguns require a break-in period of between 50 and 200 rounds, while others may come out of the box shooting without exception. When a customer complains of malfunctions of the failure-to-go-intobattery type, we should be aware that certain handguns are prone to limp-wrist malfunctions. During the past few years, I have dealt with a number of Kel-Tec handguns.

I can give them a good recommendation as self-defense guns, but the operation and particulars of the handgun must be understood. I’ve discovered that, unlike some other makes of polymer-frame handguns, the Kel-Tec needs to be lubricated on a regular basis, though lubrication is probably not as critical with the Kel-Tec as with steel-frame 1911s or Browning Hi-Power-type handguns. It’s simply a minimal requirement.

Like many lightweight polymer-frame pistols, if the Kel-Tec is not grasped tightly in recoil, the pistol can "short cycle" or fail to completely close during firing. This is a result of the pistol recoiling against a foundation—the shooter—that is not rigid enough. Many problems with the Glock were also blamed on the pistol when a weak-wristed grip was the real culprit. This may be the situation when a shooter complains of a short cycling with the Kel-Tec. Also, the pistol demands a breakin period.

The gun received poor marks in early examples from gun writers who did not take the time to thoroughly test the handgun. One of the .32-caliber Kel-Tecs I tested came out of the box shooting with any type of ammo. The second be gan to function after 100 rounds of Fiocchi ball ammunition, but seemed sluggish with other ammunition that was more lightly loaded. It did not function with jacketed hollowpoint ammunition until I performed certain modifications. The 9mm pistols seem to vary.

The newest 9mm I tested functioned with any type of load after a break-in with about 100 rounds of Fiocchi ball. The pistol now functions well with all factory ammunition. However, I would avoid the 147-grain loading, which produces less slide velocity and simply does not produce the needed impulse for proper oper

The author found that a mirror finish on the ejector can help to eliminate the pistol’s tendency to throw shells into the shooter’s face. ation in some short-slide pistols. With these practical considerations covered, there are indeed areas in which the Kel-Tec pistol can profit from gunsmithing.

Let’s recap the preliminary checks: • Properly lubricate the long bearing surfaces of the pistol. • Be certain the shooter is using a proper locked-wrist grip. • Use full-power ball ammunition such as Winchester’s 124-grain NATO loads to test function. I recently made a special purchase of Winchester WCC 1989 vintage ball that is among the best choices for testing 9mm handguns. This ammo is now carefully hoarded.

Beyond Practical Considerations Recently produced Kel-Tecs have a lighter trigger action, and Kel-Tec offers a special kit to reduce the trigger action of older guns from 10 to 12 pounds to the current 8.5-pound standard. However, there are other ways to achieve a smoother, lighter trigger action. The junction of the hammer strut on the trigger bar should be inspected for rough spots and burrs and polished carefully to a smooth surface. This modification will bring a smoother action that is noticeable in operation.

Also, lubrication of the working parts with Tetra Lube produces good results, especially in combination with the aforementioned smoothing. Disassembly Once unloaded, taking the pistol down is straightforward. Lock the gun to the rear using the slide lock. Be certain the magazine is removed. Insert a case rim, screwdriver, or similar tool into the takedown lever and remove it. The slide will come off the front of the frame when the slide lock is released.

The recoil spring and guide rod are easily removed by pulling them out the bottom of the slide, and the barrel simply slips down. For detail stripping, you’ll need a punch or a small bolt to get the job done. There are three polymer pins in the frame that must be removed by lightly punching them out from one side to the other. The hammer-spring clip is in the base of the butt. This removes the hammer spring. This part is a little difficult to remove, but with sufficient pressure it will move.

The frame itself is then removed from the polymer handle. The spring and retainer clip that pass through the magazine well and the aluminum frame assembly pulls free. Unlike many polymer guns, the Kel-Tec is actually a gun in a polymer stock— not a gun embedded in polymer. The magazine catch and spring will fall out at this time, but it’s not difficult to replace them.

The transfer bar serves the same purpose in the Kel-Tec as in the Beretta and other designs, transferring energy from the trigger to the hammer or striker. The Kel-Tec uses a geometrically designed hammer, not a Glock-like striker. The transfer bar simply pulls away, but be very careful in noting how the trigger-return spring wraps under the trigger bar. It catches on a small groove on the bottom-most section of the trigger bar. It rotates back into place and latches in place during reassembly.

If you wish to replace the hammer spring in order to bring about a lighter trigger action, the hammer and spring are removed by use of a punch. The pin holding the hammer is drifted out. Take care that the hammer spring does not fall away. Polishing There are two accepted methods of polishing the Kel-Tec trigger bar. One is to fire the gun perhaps a thousand rounds; the action of the bar and the This one shows nicks and knocks from the noses of various bullet styles.

While the gun functions, it seems likely that, without some smoothing up, a malfunction will occur eventually.

Right top and bottom: The Kel- Tec’s spring-within-a-spring guide rod helps in controlling recoil and in producing reliable action in a short-slide handgun. It also produces some additional complication in field stripping and maintenance. hammer seem to polish each other. The better method is to simply polish the bar early in the life of the pistol.

I think that if the gun were as well polished as a custom gun or a SIG it would have to cost just as much, but the little guns are reliable as issued and certainly can be made very smooth. Lightly polishing any obvious drag marks or burrs works well with the transfer bar. The transfer bar should be smooth on the side that lies against the frame; the outside doesn’t really matter. Use stones when working with this part. A good knife-type polishing stone works quite well on this long surface.

There are usually some sharp edges, and these must be addressed. Some of my correspondents report polishing exposed areas of the trigger bar and hammer with a rod with light sandpaper attached, without even disassembling the gun. This seems to produce some improvement. If you attempt to polish the hammer, the same cautions apply as with any hammer—the angles and the shape cannot be changed. The hammer must be polished lightly only, removing any sharp edges, without changing the angle of the contact points.

This points out the need to test fire the gun before beginning, as wear points and sharp edges will show in a gun that has been fired. As for the trigger pin, I lubricate this part with Tetra Lube, but do not attempt to polish it. There are a couple of concerns you should be aware of. One of these is a trait seldom found in modern-production Kel-Tec guns, but very common with the early pistols. This is the propensity of the pistol to throw spent cases in the direction of the shooters eyes and forehead.

The consensus is that the ejector of the pistol in question is too high and sharp. It is true that these ejectors give vigorous and reliable ejection, but a hot case in the face is something to be avoided. The shooter’s firing grip may contribute to this problem, but there is a simple solution. The cure is to carefully polish and shorten the ejector. Recognizing this problem, Kel-Tec has ejectors of different heights available that can be installed to cure the problem.

But this is a simple matter to address; simply polish and lower the ejector by a margin. This is a "fit and try" operation, reassembling the pistol and test firing the piece to ensure proper function. It is possible to shorten the ejector too much, but in my experience a slight effort cures this problem. Although quite vigorous, the Kel-Tec ejector does not bend or damage cases, as is common with many 1911 pistols. The final problem is one that does not affect function but clearly needs to be addressed.

Most Kel-Tec pistols will feed hollowpoint ammunition without any problem. My personal 9mm version is omnivorous, gulping up any wide-mouth hollowpoint, be it handloaded rounds with Sierra JHPs or factory Cor Bon ammunition. However, I have seen on occasion a problem in the feed cycle. This is a very compact handgun; and, of necessity, the barrel, feed ramp, and magazine are in close proximity. When firing, the barrel feed ramp sometimes returns to battery and gives the round waiting in the magazine a smack.

This results in the hollow nose being deformed, and sometimes the bullet is moved toward the rear in the cartridge case by a fraction. Bad things can happen when a bullet is moved to the rear. The seal at the cartridge case mouth can be broken, and this can lead to powder contamination by oil, solvent, or moisture. Modern American-made ammunition is usually "bulletproof," but a hard smack on the bullet nose can break the cartridge mouth seal. Driving the bullet closer to the powder can also increase pressure.

The potential for a tie-up from bullet deformation would seem to exist, although I have not seen it happen. This is an odd type of malfunction that is rare, in my experience, in other designs. Fortunately, it does not affect reliability in test firing a few dozen rounds, but I believe the potential exists for problems. The cure is simple. The center of the feed ramp can be polished away a certain amount, carefully preserving the original angle.

This is best done without the Dremel tool, using sandpaper or needle files only. Just a little is the rule. This is another cut and try operation, frequently reassembling the handgun for a function test. I’ve found that few handguns of this type will require an extensive polish. Conclusions The Kel-Tec is a reliable handgun, but more complicated than some modern handguns to work with, I feel. I’ve experienced some difficulty in disassembling the handgun.

Sometimes I’m unsuccessful in trying to bring the (continued on page 21)

takedown lever out with a case rim, and I end up using a hard tip from the Chapman screwdriver kit. After that, the individual parts will usually come apart in textbook fashion. When reassembling the pistol, the simple procedure of putting the guide and spring back in place under the barrel can also produce some difficulty. The problem seems to be the end of the spring locking on the slide and not allowing the guide rod to continue forward.

This can result in a tie-up, and difficulty in placing the rod and spring under the barrel. Finally, with some manipulation, it’s possible to get the rod and spring back in place. This is the price we pay for a full-power handgun that’s so compact. Overall, I believe the Kel-Tec pistol has many good traits, and these simple maintenance concerns area small price to pay for a reliable gun that typically retails for about $250.

Still, you can probably count on having these pistols coming into the shop for various improvements. ■