Savage Trigger Guard Screw Fix

The rear trigger guard screw on the Savage Model 112 is poorly supported and often strips out, along with a chunk of walnut base wood that goes with it. Here’s how to make a permanent fix.

Unlike most other bolt rifles, where the rear trigger guard screw serves to draw the action snugly into the bedding, the Model 112 Savage does not. Ordinarily, the rear Fillister head screw need not be taken out to remove the Model 112 action from the stock; but it usually is, and the hole wears out—sometimes breaking a chunk of wood with it. To remedy the problem, the space surrounding the screw hole can be enlarged and anew threaded base and screw installed to solidly anchor the trigger guard.

In the process I enlarged and squared off the damaged area of the stock surrounding the old screw hole. I opened and squared off the socket to fit apiece of aluminum about a half inch cubed. I used a small chisel and a Dremel tool to form the space for the aluminum block. The block was formed to closely fit the The stock is bedded with Brownells Steel Bed back to the receiver tang.

Unlike most other bolt action receivers, there is no hole in the stock for the receiver tang which normally passes through the rear hole of the trigger guard. The Savage Model 112 has a wood screw here. The picture shows the addition of a central pillar bedding screw hole used for maximum receiver stability. hole, allowing some space for bonding material at contact surfaces. A 10-32, 82-degree screw head is used to attach the trigger guard to the new aluminum block.

As away to position the screw hole, the aluminum block is placed in the stock and the trigger guard is set in position over it. A pencil or scribe is then used to mark exactly where the threaded screw hole must be located right through the guard screw hole. Having drilled and tapped the screw hole, the aluminum block is attached squarely to the rear of the trigger guard and set into position to test for correct fit.

If it fits well, carefully apply a light coat of release agent to the surfaces of the trigger guard, being careful none gets on the aluminum block. We don’t want to bond the trigger guard into the stock.

American Gunsmith Writer Search We are always in need of articles and are interested in working with gunsmiths that want to write for us. Write up that great gun- The aluminum block is now ready to permanently bond into position. Here I chose to use J-B Kwik Weld, a fast setting version smithing project for us and turn your idea into cash! of J-B Weld which begins to set up in less than 10 minutes. Brownells Steel Bed is also a good choice.

As the threaded block is bonding into position, the action was set into the stock and the guard screws tightened down to assure a positive fit. With the aluminum block bonded solidly in place, the trigger guard was removed and things Far

looked good. Little, if any, cleanup was necessary. Though it may appear an overly involved process just to re-set a guard screw, there are few short cuts in doing a job right. Much like deciding just what to do with a tooth in need of dental work… either fill it, install a crown, pull it, or do nothing. This job was less painful! AG Savage Model 112 trigger guard solidly in place with a standard 1/4 inch guard screw front and a threaded replacement screw into the aluminum block below.

Far From top, front 1/4-inch screw below the recoil lug; added 1/4-inch central action screw with escutcheon; rear standard 1/4-inch action screw through the front trigger guard hole; and replacement trigger guard screw at rear of the trigger guard threaded into the aluminum block.

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