Ruger American Rimfire

This can’t be considered the last article to appear here about the Ruger American line up. In the future you’ll be reading up on the pistol and, hopefully, another on the centerfire Ruger American Rifle which earned the 2013 Golden Bullseye Award from the National Rifle Association’s American Rifleman magazine as "Rifle of the Year." Whether the latter ever becomes viable depends on a rumor I picked up at 2016 SHOT involving a major change in policy regarding the bolt assembly.

Present standard operating procedures require the rifle be returned to New Hampshire for any servicing. That would include cleaning! How come? Absolutely no information on bolt disassembly is available. No way, not from anywhere inside or outside the factory. Such a policy might be considered wisely made in a Legal Department but I insist it’s plain dumb from a marketing standpoint.

The American Rifle is a reliable, lightweight, accurate, reasonably-priced hunter and I reckon those arriving at the choice picked a true winner. It is among the top sellers for Ruger. My fear is that it will be spending so much time travelling back and forth for anything beyond basic maintenance that the rifle is in danger of being hit with a bum rap for not being present when wanted in the field.

The fear cancelled out any personal hesitation regarding my mentioning that risk to a couple of senior management types who’d joined the passing parade in and out of the Ruger booth. Turns out, someone "up there" must have heard me and decided I wasn’t a total kook.

The rumored whisper reaching my ears at 2016 SHOT included not just a change Even the raw materials used in its manufacture are purchased from domestic sources. in the existing policy but the inclusion of a factory service jig to be included with each rifle shipped. This jig makes it possible for any informed, practicing gunsmith to disassemble and reassemble the firing pin assembly, the most verboten of bolt components.

Further, the presently-forbidden bolt detailed takedown information would be readily revealed to "previously qualified recipients." A very short list of those recipients includes us. Keep your eyes peeled for a future article. For now, I’ll continue filling you in about the American Rifle’s new rimfire cousin released just over a year ago. Ruger’s success in the rimfire market has prompted the company to broaden purchasing choices to six options.

Stocks are either nicely-grained wood or black polymer, chamberings include .22 LR, .22 WMR, and .17 HMR, and the trigger is the same proven Ruger Marksman Adjustable unit that has earned much praise due to its presence in the company’s hunting rifles. Lengths of pull are 13.75 inches for full size models and 12.5 inches for compacts. All barrels are 18 inches with a 1/2 x 28 thread pattern and a factory-installed thread protector at the muzzle end.

There are comb height options to choose from and all models include the patent-pending Power Bedding blocks to positively locate the receiver, free float the barrel, and assures that wandering off center bore is nothing to be concerned about. All .22 LR models employ flush-mounting BX- 1 ten round magazines like the 10/22 or BX-25 25 round magazines. Magnum models use the flush-mounting JMX-1 nine round magazine.

The receiver is machined to accept a 3/8" rimfire scope base and is also been drilled and tapped for Weaver #12 bases (not included.) The inside diameter of the receiver is 3/4 inches. You’ll need to know that if your customer insists on having the OEM barrel replaced with one heavier or longer. There is no similarity between this barrel and the easily dealt with one of a 10/22. It’s purely a Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde thing. Pin #57 on the parts list is identified as "Assembly Pin".

While it may appear to be the part holding the barrel in the receiver, American Rimfire barrels are actually a press fit set in very tightly with a hydraulic press. Not until then is a hole drilled through the receiver and the lower portion of the barrel and the pin installed. Is

It makes it possible to remove the bolt without pulling the trigger and is shown as it would be on a right handed gun. Removal is described in the article with details of the bolt disassembly. the pin tapered? Could be. Measure both exposed ends of it. If one is smaller than the other, it’s tapered. So much for Dr. Henry Jekyll. Enter Mr. Hyde?

Whether he does pretty much depends upon how stubborn the customer is about replacing the OEM barrel, how you explain the work to be done, whether If it isn’t, secure the rear of the bolt in padded vise jaws, grasp the bolt handle knob firmly, and rotate it counter clockwise. Basically, it’s a spring with a dual function. Removal must be done cautiously. Ayour shop is equipped to do it, what the cost will be if it is, and—most important—what the cost will be if it isn’t. Begin with the task itself.

Pin #57 does have an assembly function. Sort of. After the hydraulically-imposed press fit has been accomplished, the hole is drilled as described and the pin inserted to prevent any possibility of the barrel backing out. As long as the pin remains in contact with the barrel the latter can’t be pushed from the receiver. If you have a hydraulic press and a means of firmly holding on to the receiver without damaging it, the pin must be pushed inward.

Do no pushing from other than its smaller end if measurements taken indicate a taper. Do otherwise and a terrible internal, immovable jam will occur that will have to be drilled out. Once the pin is detached from both the barrel and receiver, a hydraulic press must be applied to separate the two major components. With any luck, this press could be the same machine needed to press fit in the replacement barrel while continually confirming any front sight it wears is centered after the pressing.

Drill the assembly pin hole through both components and install the pin. That’s all there is to it, except you likely don’t have a hydraulic press and no reliable, safe means of holding the receiver. Sending this work out will add to the costs. I guarantee this additional cost will dampen the determination for a Hyde-inclusive switch down to, "Isn’t there some other way?" B There are several solutions to this but leave your operation out of further consideration if there’s not a quality machine lathe on site.

If there is, you’re still in the game with Other Option One. Get a quote from a metalworking member of The American Custom Gunmakers Guild (acgg.org, and add in the cost of a replacement barrel. Ship off the rifle after securing customer approval. Other Option Two, agree on the specifics of length, style, twist rate, etc., and relay that data to a reputable, reliable barrel maker such as Shilen Rifles, ER Shaw, or Mc Millan Firearms. With the specifics arranged, ship the job to them.

If you have a lathe and can arrange access to a hydraulic press, Other Option Three is to prep the barreled action for barrel removal and manage the removal as it happens. Take the new barrel to the lathe C

Above center: The positioning spring (D) properly installed prior to returning the bolt to the receiver. 22 LR (BX-l) magazine for the American Rimfire also fits the 10/22. Never load .22 LR cartridges in a .22 WMR or .17 HMR magazine (JMX-l) as the smaller cases can split, releasing hot gases and particles out of the action at high speed. and turn 16 TPI x 34 inch threads inside the receiver with matching ones onto the new barrel.

Join the two components, assuring center bore front sight alignment when the union is complete. Use the existing assembly pin hole in the receiver as a guide. Carefully drill through the receiver and lower barrel, then install the pin. Eliminating the remote possibility that neither Mr. Hyde nor any member of his family hold a High Master classification, I’ll now bet the revealed costs of a rebarreling project end all additional demands.

You may be thanked for your unpaid advisories but, considering the nature of the Hydes, probably not. Still, you can profit from this overview. Field Stripping Eye protection on? Magazine out? Safety on? Chamber empty? Check. Open the bolt. Pull it to the rear. At the same time, depress the rear of the bolt release. A unique feature among bolt action rimfires is present in the American Rimfire: There’s no need to pull the trigger when removing the bolt.

Once the bolt and barreled action are out of the stock, routine cleaning is immediately possible from breech to muzzle. Removal of the barreled action is child’s play. Back out both action screws (#46) and lift the action straight upward. As you have probably noticed, many drawings are included in this article yet you’re soon to be aware I’m only providing detailed disassembly information on one. When I’ve followed this practice in the past reader questions, some quite resentful, wanted to know why.

The response, then and now, remains the same. An increasing number of small internal parts, particularly in trigger assemblies, are being restricted to "factory only" fitting. They are not available to anyone outside the service department. A complete trigger assembly, however, is made available in guns where reinstallation presents no complex procedures.

The reasons for the part restrictions, especially in hunting rifles and personal defense handguns, is a concern unskilled hands will attempt to "improve" trigger pulls to a point that renders a rifle or shotgun unsafe to be carried afield or the pull of a defensive weapon too light to reliably ignite a chambered round. In either case, bad things happen. When bad things happen, lawyers bearing litigations are sure to follow. I hope all who have inquired are satisfied with this rationale.

Mean- Dwhile, what a gunsmith will need to know about any seemingly unnecessary drawing is mentioned in the captions. Detail Stripping The Bolt You will need a 1/8" or 3/32" punch and small flat blade screwdriver. The rear bolt retaining pin (#5) is located just aft of the bolt handle (#6). Uncock the bolt to relieve enough tension on the firing pin spring (#3).

You’ll know you’re set up for the next move when the square front end of the firing pin (#4) has noticeably cleared its guide block (#51) and has seated in the large groove at the upper end of the bolt handle. Several coils of the firing pin spring are should be visible in the U-shaped cut of #51. Now you have to place the back end of the bolt on your bench. Hold it steady as you’ll need to press down on it firmly.

Listen for a slight click that is being made by the rear bolt retaining pin and lets you know the pin has been freed up for removal. Keep the pressure on. Push out the pin with the proper punch, then ease off. The rear bolt (#2) and firing pin spring will slide out of the back. If they don’t, look for a hang up by the firing pin on part #8, identified as "Positioning Spring." Properly translated to its dual function, one end (the bent one) of #8 applies pressure on the cartridge case rim to retain it.

The opposite end has very small "ears" that retain the extractor (#9). Avoid getting ham-handed here. Insert the blade of the small driver between

the front end of the bolt (#1) and the ears of #8. Carefully rotate #8 counter-clockwise as you lift the ears off the extractor. Remove #8 from its bolt slot. Lift away the extractor. The firing pin will slide out the back of the bolt and the bolt handle will slip off the front end of the bolt rear. Ruger American Rimfire (Speci ications subject to change without notice) For reassembly, the extractor has position hooks that must fit into the bottom of the front bolt.

Make a magnified inspection of the extractor and forward bolt. Locate the hooks, their intended position in both, and assure a perfect marriage between the two. With anticipated broad acceptance and increasing sales as a result, I have a hunch Ruger will keep right on producing extensions of their American brand.

How about they add a marching band for the announcement meetings, telling all there is yet another American they can be proud of, with the combined display of all Ruger American firearms revealed to the tune of Yankee Doodle.

AG 1 Bolt/Firing Pin Assembly 2 Rear Bolt 3 Firing Pin Spring 4 Firing Pin 5 Rear Bolt Retaining Pin 6 Bolt Handle 7 Front Bolt 8 Positioning Spring 9 Extractor 10 Magazine Latch Housing 11 Magazine Latch Housing 12 Magazine Latch 13 Magazine Latch Plunger 14 Ejector 15 Pivot Pin 16 Magazine Latch Plunger Spring 17 Trigger Housing Pin (2) 18 Trigger Assembly 19 Safety Button 20 Sear Spring 21 Sear 22 Safety Link 23 Sear Stop Pin 24 Trigger Block Pin 25 Trigger Sear Pin (2) 26 Safety Shaft 27 Safety Spring 28 Trigger Housing 29 Trigger Sear Pin E-Clip (2) 30 Trigger Block Pin E-Clip 31 Safety Shaft E-Clip 32 Trigger Release 33 Trigger Release Spring 34 Trigger 35 Trigger Release Pin 36 Trigger Spring 37 Trigger Adjustment Screw 38 Stock Assembly 39 Recoil Pad, Standard 40 Recoil Pad, Standard, High 41 Recoil Pad, Compact 42 Recoil Pad, Compact, High 43 Locknut 44 Rear Sling Swivel Screw 45 Stock Body 46 Action Screw (2) 47 Front Sling Swivel 48 Recoil Lug 49 Magazine Assembly 50 Barrel Receiver Assembly 51 Guide Block 52 Receiver 53 Bolt Stop Pin 54 Bolt Stop Lever 55 Bolt Stop Spring 56 Filler Screws (4) 57 Assembly Pin 58 Rear Sight Assembly 59 Barrel 60 Front Sight 61 Front Sight Screw