Remington 1100 Repair

When I received a Remington 1100 shotgun in for repair, the handguard and barrel had been removed and the action would not cycle manually. I did not get any information on this firearm so its history was unknown. It appears someone had tried to work on it and then gave up. Disassembly If starting with a fully assembled shotgun, make sure the chamber and magazine are empty. Lock the bolt to the rear with the safety on. Remove the handguard nut and handguard and pull the barrel from the receiver.

Remove the barrel seal (rubber O-ring), piston and piston seal (metal parts) from the magazine tube. On this shotgun, the rubber seal was missing and the piston and piston seal were in the gas cylinder on the barrel. While holding the operating handle, push in the carrier release and let the bolt go forward. Remove the operating handle. Push in the The indentations and previously-staked locations are visible. Bottom carrier release and reach inside the receiver to depress the feed latch (right side).

This will allow the action bar and bolt to be pulled out. The bolt sits on the action bar and can fall off if you’re not careful. The bolt is a very simple design and can be cleaned without disassembly. Remove the two trigger assembly pins and slide the trigger assembly from the bottom of the receiver. When I did that on this shotgun, the feed latch dropped out. For whatever reason, it had come "unstaked" and needed to be re-staked; otherwise, the trigger assembly could not be reinstalled.

Looking into the receiver, I found the reason the action would not cycle. The link that transfers motion from the action bar to the action spring was not installed correctly. The link has two legs that are inserted into the spring follower at the rear of the receiver. The legs must be squeezed together to fit into the follower. In this shotgun, one of the legs was in the follower and the other was not. It was against the rear of the receiver, preventing the action bar from moving rearward.

The link is removed by pulling it forward, lifting it up and turning it 90 degrees to disengage it from the slots in the receiver. The action bar slides in these slots. I sprayed the trigger assembly with solvent and dried it. I did not disassemble it. To remove the stock, remove the buttplate screws and buttplate. Remove the nut from the action spring tube and slide off the stock. There are two washers on the tube and they Both legs are in the follower.

The leg outside of the follower is against the rear wall of the receiver and prevents the action from cycling. may or may not remain in the stock. One of the washers is a lock washer; it goes against the nut. The other washer has two small tangs and fits against the stock. There is a metal plate between the stock and the receiver. It provides a path for the recoil to act on the center section of the stock and not on the outside edges, which prevents cracking.

The action spring probably does not need to be removed but this being an old gun, I wanted to inspect it and clean as needed. To remove the action spring, push in on the plug at the rear of the tube with around tool until the spring pressure is off the pin that retains the plug. Remove the pin and slowly release the plug and spring from the tube. It’s best to do this with the receiver in a vise so you have both hands to restrain the spring and plug.

When reinstalling the plug, the slot in the plug must be oriented to the hole in the tube so the pin can be inserted. The spring follower can be slid out of the tube for cleaning. On this shotgun, the plug, spring, and follower were dirty so I cleaned them and the inside of the tube as well. I cleaned the tube like I would a barrel, using patches with solvent, dry patches, and a light coat of oil. Remove the magazine spring retainer by gently prying it from the tube while restraining it and the spring.

The spring and follower can then be removed. Repair To stake the feed latch into the receiver, I purchased the appropriate tool from Midway USA. It’s reasonably priced and works well. I don’t know how this repair can be done without it or a similar tool. It comes with a small plate that sits on the outside of the receiver. I added a couple layers of tape on the plate to protect the receiver finish. The tool I purchased did not include any instructions so there was a bit of a learning curve.

It takes some effort to line up properly so that the staking operation occurs at the correct location. I found it was easier to hold the small plate in place on the staking screw by main-

taining pressure on the tool against the receiver and then tightening the staking screw slightly when it was in position. The staking operation pushes the softer metal of the receiver against the harder spring steel of the feed latch so correctly Below, action tube, action spring, follower, plug, and pin. locating the business end (sharp point) of the tool is important.

The trigger assembly pin must be installed to hold the latch in the correct position and I used a small paper clip-style spring clamp to hold the latch flat against the inside wall of the receiver next to the pin. I also used tape to hold the front of the latch in position while installing the trigger pin. After it is located properly, the staking bolt is turned only about half of a turn to push the hardened point into the receiver to force the metal into the indentations on the feed latch.

The latch has six indentations, three along each side, stamped into it where it can be staked. The latch was originally staked at four places (the two on each end) and the middle Clip and pin are removed to stake other two locations. American Gunsmith Reader Services 1.

locations were not staked. I staked the two at the rear of the latch first. Staking the two locations on the front requires removing the trigger pin. My advice is put the receiver in a vise, take your time, and double check that the tool is in the proper location before tightening the staking screw. The other screw helps locate the position of the tool against the bottom of the receiver. Reassembly The action follower, action spring, plug, and pin are installed into the tube.

The link is placed into the receiver vertically and then turned so the front tabs fit into the slots in the receiver. The link has a slight arch and the top of the arch goes toward the top of the receiver. Compress the legs and fit them into the spring follower. Install the trigger assembly and pins. Install the stock plate, stock, washers, and nut on the action tube. Install the buttplate and screws. Install the magazine follower, spring, and retainer. The retainer has a hole in the center.

I inserted along screw- American Gunsmith Mailing List Policy Like many other publishers, we make portions of our customer list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services we believe you may enjoy. If you do not wish to receive these offers, and/or information, please let us know by contacting us at: American Gunsmith Opt-Out Program Norwalk, CT 06854 Please include your current mailing label. driver into it and the end of the spring to act as a guide. This helps corral the spring.

Place the bolt on the action bar assembly and slide them into the receiver while depressing the feed latch. Install the operating handle into the bolt. Install the gas system parts onto the magazine tube. The piston seal goes on first, followed by the piston and the barrel seal. The barrel seal, being a rubber O-ring, needs to be rolled onto the tube. I wrapped the threads on the end of the tube with tape to make this easier. There is a sticker on the action bar that shows the correct position of the parts.

Retract the bolt and insert the barrel into the receiver. Install the handguard and nut onto the magazine tube. Check for proper operation using snap caps. This old shotgun is now ready for many more years of shooting clays and hunting. AG