Reader Forum

Flitz on Nickel Plate I started working on a nickel-plated S&W Model 10 made in 1977 that had been exposed to something that dulled the finish. Not terrible, but it needs some areas touched up. Is Flitz good for polishing a nickel-plated firearm? Is there anything better? Robert Joseph Ward From Paul Mazan. Flitz would be a good product to try first. Failure or success is dependent on many issues. The age and condition of the plating as well as the type of plating it is will all affect the outcome.

Commercial plating is much heavier (thicker) than an electroless nickel. On many old guns, the plate will already be separating from the base metal and any abrasion is likely to simply cause it to flake off. In addition to all that, many older guns and war souvenirs were chrome plated in the ‘50s. Normally on a gun where the plating is just dull, a superfine abrasive product and a rag to apply and polish it is all that is needed. I have successfully used polishing wheels and fine abrasives as well.

Your best bet is probably to start out with a polish like Flitz and see if that gives you the result you are looking for. If that is not successful, evaluate if you have any plating flaking off. If you do, your only option is to leave it as is or strip it and replate. If the finish is intact you can always move up to an automotive or gunstock polishing compound like Brownells FFFF stock polishing compound for example and hand polish.

I wish I could be more definitive but without seeing the gun that is the best advice I can offer. Good luck with your project. From RK Campbell. I studied this awhile. Stainless is okay to polish. Parkerizing absorbs oil and actually looks better the more oil there is. Nickel should simply be cleaned. Factory nickel is good. It is the general after market types that are seen chipped and peeled in the pawn shop. I would be very hesitant to use any type of abrasive.

Nickel is resistant to corrosion more than it is to wear. I think I would clean nickel with denatured alcohol. As for a desire to polish, it is possible but I would remove the grips and apply the compound briskly over a surface that is normally hidden and see what happens. Next, the underside of the barrel. Remember many nickel handguns have a different appearing finish due to the factory polish—the area of the sights, as an example, might be frosted and the sides be highly polished.

I think a very good cleaning and a jewelers rogue would be the best thing to proceed with. From Ray Ordorica. I’m not sure why anyone would need to polish a nickel-plated gun. I’ve owned, carried, and shot my nickeled S&W Model 29 since about 1975 and have never polished it. The plating is still in perfect condition. I’ve never used Flitz but have had excellent success on most metals with MAAS metal polish.

Still, I’d recommend against excessive polishing as this could eventually wear through or scratch the plating. Muzzleloading Cleaning That portion of your audience that is new to muzzleloaders, and presumably black powder, may wonder the best cleaning techniques. As a youth, I shot those guns, muskets and rifles, for several years. Some of my guns dated to the early 1800s, so they were precious and warranted good care. My chosen cleaning regimen: soap and water.

I’d separate the barrel from the stock, remove the breech plug, put the barrel in a pot of soapy water, and run a patch up and down, scrubbing the crud out. Then rinse with hot water, dry, and oil. For the lock, the same basic procedure, but scrubbed with a tooth brush. In the field, a lot of shooting will also coat the bore with crud. A small load of powder and a dry patch followed with an oiled patch will allow a wet patch on a worm (maybe with a bit of water as well) to loosen and partially clean the barrel.

I’m sure more modern methods with commercial products are popular now. Various "Moose Milk" recipes can also work: one version calls for about one part Ballistol to three parts water, another uses equal parts Murphy’s Oil soap, rubbing alcohol, and water. However, for me, soap and water worked well and saved money for spending elsewhere. J. C. Tate, CDR USN (Ret.) AG