Reader Forum

Other minor fixes I’ve applied to my Flues is adding a recoil pad on the gun, though it wasn’t my best work. That line adjacent to the stock is DAP Plastic Wood. I’ve included some photos showing were I installed screws to tighten things up. The screw shanks are thicker than the originals and I worked the heads to minimize their height. Finally, Permatex Ultra Black was applied to the edges of the forend iron and receiver to really snug things. It’s not permanent, but it’s made a good difference.

One day I’ll take it apart but not before I have a good schematic or a model to base the procedure on. Author Mark Hollensen responds. Unfortunately, Ithaca Flues have differences not found on the Fulton or Sterling guns. The top lever cam is different and can also be very different within different Flues models. Much of the take down would depend upon which particular model you have.

There is no doubt that the takedown information in my article could be used as ago-by; just know that there are distinct differences that you will find when going into the shotgun. Unless the shotgun is broken, it may be wise to not open it up. That said, you might want to enlist the services of a qualified shotgun gunsmith in your area. I would like to say that the go-by in my article will suffice, but that would be very short-sided on my part.

If you do proceed, I strongly recommend that you go slow, take indepth notes and enlist the help of a good digital camera as you move along so that you can (at least) get it back together. More importantly, you need to be certain that you can replace any part lost or broken/damaged while opening up the shotgun, let alone any part(s) already broken or worn that you find inside that need to be replaced.

And, of course, make sure that you have or make the proper-sized screwdrivers or bits as you don’t want to ruin the screws. One wrong screwdriver bit applied to a screw might tear the screw slot open, resulting in having to drill out that screw—something that you really don’t want to have to do. The older shotguns utilized softer metals than those being manufactured today. Based on the year of your shotgun, I would be hesitant to fire it and the chambers need to be gauged to ensure they are not short.

Today’s ammunition, even light target loads, can produce pressures that your gun was never made to handle. And if the chambers are short, you run the risk of blowing up the barrel(s). Mark Bozek

Hi Power Tuneups I am building a Hi Power and enjoyed "Tuning A Surplus FN Hi Power" by Robert Kolesar in the March 2019 issue. I have a complete slide plus extra magazines for a model PJK-9HP. The right side is marked "YG05895 K. B. I. Inc. Harrisburg, Pa." and the left side "FEG Mod. PJK9HP Made in Hungary". This slide has an external extractor, is polished blue, and looks like new. Where can I find the lower half/ frame to go with this slide?

Do you believe it is worth the time and effort to build a completed pistol using this slide? From author Robert Kolesar. Basically, you have some spare parts for an FEG. The frame (lower) is actually the firearm and would be difficult to acquire. My advice would be to sell your upper half (it should be easy to sell on various Hi Power forums) and start fresh with a complete pistol that’s a genuine Browning. The FEG is a well-made copy of the Browning Hi Power, but it’s still a copy.

Best not to get tied down trying to find a receiver to fit your slide and barrel. You might luck out by finding an FEG that has a trashed slide and/or barrel for low cost if you’re willing to look. If you’re not that lucky, selling your parts will definitely help in buying a nice Browning Hi Power. Machine Rest? In the article ".22 Nosler" (March 2019) author Joe Carlos mentions a machine rest that he uses for accuracy testing. Can you provide details on what machine rest he uses?

Brad Hider Shreve, OH Author Joe Carlos responds. I use a Stabilisator 3000A1 which was made in France. It is extremely high quality and was priced accordingly (well into five figures) when I purchased it. I believe the company has gone out of business some time ago. I do not know of any of these machine rests left in stock anywhere. Nor do I know of any other commercial machine rests. I have seen other machine rests but all of them were one-of-a-kind custom made.

Truing AR-15 Receivers I’ve enjoyed the series of articles from Joe Carlos on building matchgrade AR-15s but don’t understand why he didn’t start truing his receivers by using the right tool. Ideal ways would be to either true the end of the receiver up with a proper lapping tool such as on a lathe, or do it by hand. I would never attempt using a drill or drill press.

I’m sure there are some people that might lap their receiver incorrectly and get the headspace off but if you do it by hand, watch closely what you’re doing, and take your time as you go, it works and will create good results. Jim Allison Author Joe Carlos responds. Bolt gun custom builders do square the fronts of their receivers and have been doing so for decades.

I started squaring the fronts of my AR receivers several years back after performing an exhaustive scientific study which lead me to the conclusion that doing so removes about an average of 14% from group sizes. During that study I found that using those tools that fit in a 3/8" hand drill actually do more harm than good. Using that tool, my run out got worse and groups got fatter! I advise that no one reading this reply attempt to square an AR receiver using one of those drill or drill press truing tools.

Gunsmiths squaring the fronts of bolt action receivers do so in a lathe and that is also the proper technique to apply to Stoner platform receivers. Glen Calvert To learn more about AR receiver squaring read "New AR-15 Products" in the June 2018 issue or "Straight Bullets" in the December 2018 issue. Squaring AR receiver front ends is a separate topic entirely from removing the slop between the fit of the barrel extension and the receiver. If done properly, both reduce group sizes.

If I didn’t explain this clearly, feel free to contact me directly at AG