Reader Forum

AMT Automag III I inherited an AMT Automag III and found the September 2015 article about it interesting. In cleaning the pistol I found a stainless steel pin inside (0.125" diameter, 0.750" length). I cannot find where this pin goes in the gun. Do you know where this pin might fit or where I can find a diagram? Would it be safe to try to shoot this gun or do I need to wait? Author Dave Strom responds. I would not fire this gun until you are 100% sure that things are safe.

The AMT I worked on has been returned to the owner so I don’t have it here to measure the existing pins. There is an exploded view for download on the Numrich Gun Parts Corporation’s website (gunpartscorp.com) that lists the part. Search You Tube for disassembly videos as well. Rebarreling and Recoil Pads Some comments from the October 2015 Reader Forum. First, rebarreling a 760 Remington is done just like any other Remington.

The barrel lug is sandwiched between the barrel extension and must be properly indexed after fitting the extension with a special wrench. I use one I designed and made myself. Concerning recoil pads for synthetic stocks, most of these need to be cut off. The hole spacing likely won’t match but the process is the same.

I rasp pieces of wood to match the inside contour of the stock top and bottom, then rough up the inside of the stock with a small steel cutter in a Dremel tool with under cut gouges to lock the wood pieces. Bond with epoxy as nothing else sticks to plastic. The pad is attached and fit as normal and can be removed or replaced. Norman Weaver Weaver’s Gun Shop Thanks for sharing these tips with our readers. H&K Problem I have a Heckler & Koch Model 4 .380 (serial number 06XXX) that I bought new in the early 1970s.

On the left side of the slide it says "Harrington & Richardson Inc.—Worcester, Mass. USA—Made In Germany" and a circular symbol with what looks like a lion in it with the dates 1871 and 1971 on either side of it. The gun has about 200-300 rounds through it. Robert After shooting a few rounds the slide locked back like it was welded in place. A gunsmith freed it and told me that the plastic recoil buffer had disintegrated with age. The buffer plate was OK. I foundanew buffer and put the gun back together.

Four rounds into the next range trip the pistol locked up again and has been that way since. I have no desire to take a screw driver or pry bar to it and I do not know what that gunsmith did to unlock it. Do you have any idea how to solve this problem? Can you recommend anyone that works on these pistols? The pistol is based on the Mauser HSC and was discontinued in 1984.

The Model 4 probably predates anyone currently with H&Kin Georgia but it’s worth a try That failing, get a copy of Gun Digest’s pistol assembly book, examine the HSC instructions, and you might find a solution. Air Guns Do you have knowledge of any place where I can learn to work on BB guns and other air guns? I work on firearms and receive requests to work on them, the latest being a Model 25 Daisy pump. Any advice on exploded views?

Mel Kline Mel’s Leather Bloomfield, MO Airgun manufacturers are tighter than producers of firearms when it comes to handing out technical information. It took us over a year to pry enough loose from Air Force Airguns to do an article on their top of the line, 1000 fps, reservoir-powered model. Benjamin requires prior attendance at their school in order to secure any parts needed to repair their products. Daisy has no such school we’ve heard of but can provide an owner’s manual for the Model 25.

As you know, 99.9% of all owners manuals contain a schematic. Whether or not they’ll send you repair parts depends on the part(s) requested. Check out Daisy Manufacturing (daisy. com) for contacts and information on their airgun propulsion systems. Winchester Model 50 A customer keeps returning an almost-new Winchester Model 50 20 gauge (serial number 61XXX.) As with the previous times, his complaint is he loads one to three shotshells, cycles the action, but the hammer isn’t cocked.

After recocking, he says it will shoot it from one to over a dozen times before doing it again and doesn’t seem to matter if the gun cycles itself or if it’s done manually. The gun is better than factory cleaned and well lubricated. I previously deepened the hammer and sear engagement. C. Frustratingly, I have shot over a box of shotshells through the gun, shooting fast and slow, and can not replicate the problem despite his demonstrating exactly what he’s doing.

I called Winchester and they said this gun is too old and they have no info on it. My copy of the NRA’s Firearms Assembly is the only reference I can find with a note about any kind of problem, saying that due to over engineering a misfire can be caused by a light trigger pull and that to prevent doubling, a second sear was ground in the hammer. A light trigger pull could allow a sear to re-engage the hammer. Winchester issued a Model 50 blue book to show how to fix the problem. Mike Leonard Tamarack

We didn’t see anything specific to your customer’s problem but we have our suspicion that he is not holding the shotgun firmly to his shoulder. A gas operated shotgun needs something to work against. It’s a recoil friendly gun. Years ago, Brownells published The Encyclopedia of Modern Firearms. Within it you will find a drawing-for-drawing, word-for-word guide on how the factory disassembled/reassembled the Model 50.

If a study of that doesn’t turn up an answer, contact Nu Line Guns, a former Winchester Authorized Service Center and ask for Jerry Stevens at Extension #5. Stevens 22-410 I have a Stevens 22-410 that wouldn’t fire .410 shotshells. Discovering the selector wouldn’t go fully into position, I filed the selector so that it would. The gun then fired Federal 3 inch shotshells every time, however, my customer found that Remington ammunition would only fire intermittently and Winchester not at all.

My plan is to work the selector some more but I would appreciate some advice. We wouldn’t advise further work on the selector. Though chamber size and length is specified by SAMMI in this country, all ammo may not be exactly alike. For example, the rim thickness of .22LR cartridges can vary from brand to brand as can the internal case volumes of centerfire brass. The general rule followed by most is to check out several brands of factory fodder to discover which one the gun likes and performs with best.

Then provide a steady diet of it. High Standard What is the proper procedure to remove a rear sight from a High Standard Supermatic Citation having a U-shaped bracket attached to frame? We assume you refer to the 107 series. Well, it ain’t easy. First, remove all parts from the action. Then focus on pins. The roll pin at the bottom of the bracket retains the large, twopiece stud beside it. That roll pin is drifted into the frame to free up the stud which is drifted all the way out.

The two pins at the top of the bracket do not appear to be roll pins in our Larry reference photo. They must be drifted completely out. Caution: The larger pin retains some very small rear sight components and are easily lost. With all retainers out of its way, the rear sight is removed to the rear. Winchester 1894 A friend brought me a Winchester 94 carbine that needs a barrel, a post-64 model made in 1965.

I received a good used barrel that still has the front half of the receiver attached, preventing me from seeing the threads on the barrel. I am an amateur gunsmith and have no experience replacing a barrel. Can you tell me how to remove the barrels without any damage? I assume that I need a special vise or block to place the barrel in. Are the threads right or left hand? How much force is required to break it loose? Should I apply steady pressure or impact?

Charles You didn’t mention how much of the receiver remains. We hope there’s enough to allow a Model 1894 receiver wrench to get a hold on. In addition, you will need a barrel wrench with jaw inserts that clamp firmly to the barrel. Check Brownells for needed tooling. The finish of the barrel should be protected with duct tape prior to securing the barrel between the jaws. Winchester barrels were not turned in as tightly as, say, an ‘03 Springfield and some present day Ruger barrels.

Regardless, you may have to add an extension to the receiver wrench handle for additional leverage. A length of galvanized pipe that slips over the handle works. Francis X. Votta Catonsville, There’s an old chestnut regarding screws in general still heard in gunmaking and gunsmithing: Lefty loosey, righty tightey. So, the receiver is backed off counter clockwise. Concentrate your efforts on applying a steady force, though you might need a tap or two on the receiver wrench to get it started.

Also, the barrel vise must be anchored solidly along with the bench to which it is anchored. AG