Reader Forum

Ruger Mark II Pistol I just finished reading Wendell Deaner’s article on the Ruger Mark II Pistol and other models in the October 2014 issue. I would like to add a few notes based on my experience with these great little pistols. The 22/45 Mark II has the magazine catch on the left side of the frame, not on the bottom like the standard Mark I and II pistols. The same spring that holds the trigger pivot pin in place also holds the magazine catch in place as noted in your article.

You caution against dry-firing this pistol, but the firing pin stop prevents the firing pin from going too far and peening the chamber. I’ve dry-fired my personal 22/45 hundreds of times with no adverse affect. I have discovered over the years that the U-shaped piece at the end of the recoil spring assembly seems to have a right side up. In the center of the Uis a bulge that is actually two halves of the slot that are peened together to hold the U-shaped piece in place.

This peened bulge has been polished to facilitate installing the mainspring housing assembly, specifically allowing the bolt pin stop to go through the bolt. If this piece becomes oriented upside-down I have found it very difficult to get the bolt pin stop to install properly. Apparently the bottom half is polished more than the top half. Part of my cleaning routine is to compress the recoil spring and clean the rod, then release the spring and give it a good spray with an aerosol spray cleaner.

In the process of compressing the spring the Upiece can become oriented upside down. I mark it first with a black marker to ensure I get it oriented properly. Author Wendell Dwight Deaner responds. You are correct that a Ruger MK pistol is safe to dryfire. I accepted some advice that I thought was sound when writing the article. However, let’s chalk this one up to an old guy who is used to handling old .22s; most of them are not to be dry fired excessively.

I think it speaks well of the manufacturers of new pistols that they have corrected this problem for the most part. I called Ruger about this. They confirmed that the pistols are safe to dryfire, but when I asked how many times (as in hundreds and thousands for practice) they sort of back pedaled with a "we’re not sure" answer. I have heard of the firing pin stop itself being peened and damaged by this practice, but that has only been hearsay as I have not seen this phenomena myself.

Be that as it may, I have no desire to dryfire one of these guns until it breaks, which may be never, so I think it’s safe to practice on an empty chamber, but maybe not excessively. Thanks for bringing this to my attention. As for the U-shape piece you mention, which I believe Ruger calls a "recoil spring guide pin" I have not noticed it having an up or down side, so I really can’t comment. Now that you have alerted us to this possibility we will all be on the lookout in the future.

That is one of the things I enjoy about this magazine. 504 Remington Extractor Just read "Fitting Remington Model 504 Extractors" in the October 2014 issue. In it author Norman Johnson mistakenly refers to the left extractor of the 504 Remington as the "ejector". The ejector is part #19 on the assembly drawing. Jim Corolewski Ramsey Gunsmithing From author Norman Johnson. Thanks to gunsmith Jim Corolewski for being wide awake to notice the assembly definition lists the Model 504 Remington as having two extractors.

So, if these parts look even remotely alike, they must both be extractors, right? Well, not really. Roy Seifert My article on the Remington 504 extractor functionality was to point out the true function of these two near-identical parts and how to improve extractor function. This is easily accomplished if the reader merely follows the text instruction. By definition, the word "extract" means to pull out or draw out. Conversely, eject means to throw out or discharge.

In a close study of actual function, the Remington 504 extractor, positioned on the right side of the bolt, pulls out the cartridge case. The very similar looking part, positioned on the left, merely holds the case rim into the true extractor until such time the case rim is drawn against the ejector, completing the process.

So, the primary function of this so-named left extractor has little to do with extraction per se, as it holds the case in place following withdrawal from the chamber, providing a spring-loaded, lateral thrust as the case is thrown out. The true extractor continues to pull on the case rim until final case expulsion takes place.

Sometimes the true function of a gun part isn’t fully understood and is one reason gunsmiths can have a difficult time repairing a gun. 1916 Spanish Mauser I recently purchased a surplus 1916 Spanish Mauser. I disassembled it and cleaned it thoroughly before firing it. The action worked very well until I shot it, then I had to give the bolt handle a very hard rap to get it to open.

I assume the heat from firing it caused it to expand because after letting it sit for 15-20 minutes the action worked fine until I shot it again. What would you suggest that I do to solve this problem? I did put some gun oil on the bolt but that did not help. Also, as advice to anyone else who has certain models of Mausers, paint the little muzzle cover a bright color. I almost forgot it was on before I shot, which could have been a big mistake.

Bill Steinborn Once upon a time one of our guys purchased a .308 Spanish Mauser

carbine. The trouble was it was chambered for .308 Spanish, somewhat different than our .308 NATO. You didn’t mention the caliber of your Mauser but whatever it is make a chamber cast with Brownells Cerrosafe Chamber Casting Alloy and check it out against SAAMI specifications. If the chamber is tighter than those specifications the heat generated by rapid fire might be squeezing the rounds, making extraction difficult.

A tight chamber has to be reamed to match SAAMI specs but bore diameter can also fail to meet these specifications. If larger, the projectile may be too small to contact rifling properly and accuracy will suffer. If too tight, excessive pressure can result along with all its associated problems. As it turned out, anew barrel was necessary with the .308 Spanish carbine. Barrel replacement is recommended with an oversize bore and required with an under size one.

Your advice on muzzle covers is a good reminder for all owners of rifles equipped with them. Loosening Screws I am working on an old antique gun which has two bolts/screws that seem to be rusted to a point where I can not move them. I used PB Blaster Penetrating Catalyst on them and let them set for a few hours but still can not make them move. I have not yet tried heat or an impact tool. If these area possibility, what do I use and how do I use them?

Two other bolts/screws were removed with a screwdriver on the same gun without incident but these two are much more stubborn. Try penetrating oil for a couple of days first. If this doesn’t work, I recommend a screw extractor from B- Square called the Frozen Screw Jack. If that doesn’t work or is unavailable, an impact tool is worth a try after that. Select a screwdriver with a tip fitting the screw slots perfectly. Insert the driver blade and tap on the upper end of the driver.

If heat remains an option after trying the impact tool, do not apply it to anything but the screws. This can be accomplished with a 2 1/2" length of brass or aluminum rod and applying the torch to the upper end of the rod for a minute or two. The resulting heat will be transmitted to the screws and nothing else. Of course, always remember that anything you replace on an antique firearm reduces its collector value. S&W Front Sight How can I replace the front sight on a S&W Model 57?

Mark Morrison You can only replace or change the blade on the front sight. It is secured by a pin mounted in the ramp integral with the barrel. Contact S&Won the availability of a blade replacement prior to drifting out the pin. .404 Je ery I would like to convert a .375 H&H Whitworth Mauser to .404 Jeffery. Although the Jeffery’s case rim is 0.543 and the .375 H&His 0.532, the .404 seems to fit the bolt face without resistance, appears to be centered, and is held in place by the extractor.

Is it safe to proceed with the unmodified bolt or must it be opened up another 0.11 inch? Don Lesovsky Doug Heritage Occoquan Custom Guns, LLC A potential and possibly dangerous problem exists several inches beyond the bolt face in our opinion. Your Mauser was barreled, bored and rifled to accommodate a .375 H&H which as a bullet diameter is 0.375 inches. You wish to convert to a .404 with a bullet diameter of 0.422 inches.

We are concerned about pressure problems arising as a result of pushing a bullet down a barrel that is 0.29 inches too small to swallow it. Please check this out with SAAMI saami. org) before working further on the project. You may have to invest in another barrel to accomplish your conversion. As for reworking the bolt, get hold of some brass in both calibers, resize if necessary, and run several bolt cycles to test for extraction problems with the .404.

If none occur it’s likely your bolt will require no alteration. AG