Reader Forum

Taurus 58 and 38S I have a Taurus 58 .380 ACP and am thinking of buying a Taurus 38S .38 Super. Do you have any information or resources regarding these two pistols? These are both medium frames and the company claims they are similar to their model 92, except for the size. The 58 has a four inch barrel and the 38S has a 4.25 inch barrel. For any general information, such as a product review, contact Taurus to learn where it appeared and ask if they have a reprint or news release on the pistol.

If not, call the publication and ask for a reprint. While you have Taurus on the phone, request an owner’s manual covering the pistol(s) you are considering. 1917 Enfield A quick note for those considering modifying the 1917 Enfield. I agree that the rifle should be restored to military configuration if possible, however, if the owner really desires to convert to cock on opening Brownells sells a kit made by Dayton-Traister for the P1914 and M1917 Enfields (Brownells part number 240-150-017).

The description indicates that it must be used with a Dayton-Traister trigger, of which there are several options. The kit is on page 124 of Brownells catalog #62 and the trigger selection is on page 126. One will also notice that in the selection of triggers are also Speedlock kits that include the correct trigger assembly and all the parts needed for cock-onopening conversion. I have installed a couple of these over the years and they seem to work well.

Bolt cocking cam modification is required and instructions are included. Greg Roberts at Dayton-Traister can assist if needed (daytraco.com, Glad both you and your customers agree restoring the ‘17 Enfield rather than altering it is the best way to preserve its value, however, we reckon the customer is right, but not always. In this case and for other than the obvious reason unknown to us, the cock-on-opening desire can be safely satisfied. Your additional input is appreciated.

As you can see, we’re passing it along to other readers. Remington Model 512 A friend of mine decided to hand over his Remington Model 512 .22 to me as he stated he has no use for it. I just looked it over and it appeared to be in order. I test fired it and it was very good. As I live on a ranch north of our border, I went out in the pasture and began shooting gophers in June. By the end of September I had shot in excessive of 1500 of the critters. John R.

Peifer Silver City, NM I then put it away for the winter after cleaning just the barrel. This spring I decided to strip it down for a cleaning job, however, the sear attached to the trigger was totally worn and the rest of the action was also worn badly. The carrier (512-X) was very much in bad shape as the sear or something else had rubbed against it. I was surprised that is was able to shoot so much with this problem. I tried to locate parts without success.

I also looked around for a replacement trigger assembly but no luck. Is it possible that there is another assembly that would fit in this rifle? If so, what make and in what catalog? The parts in this rifle are worn beyond repair. Wally Bradbrooke We think the course chosen, to replace rather than rebuild, will give the best result. You should check with Remington Customer Service on the substitution aspect.

If you get real lucky, one of their current production .22 rifles will turn out to be the answer and you’ll be able to get a complete trigger assembly that has been factory-built. Don Roberts If the call turns out to be less than lucky, you are in for an extensive search of the aftermarket for the original assembly. After you’ve exhausted the list of usual suspects, call Brownells and get a free copy of their parts source list for out-of-production guns.

As a last resort, contact the Remington Association, probably the largest of all collectors groups. Remington would have a contact number but we believe Brownells also lists one in their catalog and we know Gun Digest does. Young America Revolver I am working on a Young America double action revolver. The pin that the wheel spins on was frozen together so that the pin was revolving with the wheel. The rear end of the pin is wore so much that it allows the wheel to flop around.

I’d like a book with parts list, ebook or hard copy, and maybe suggestions as to the recommended way to repair it. It is made by H & R Arms company, serial # 121XX, Worcester, Mass. Robert G. Boehler Farmersville IL Volume II of the Jack First Gunshop catalog (jackfirstgun.com, dedicated to out-of production guns, will have parts, a parts list and some form of drawing but no repair tips.

The current evolution of H&R, presently under the Freedom Arms Group umbrella along with Remington, Marlin, Bushmaster and who knows whom else by the time this is published, will be of little to no assistance since they did not manufacture the revolver. Perhaps we can help a little bit though. Totally immerse the revolver sans grip panels in penetrating oil or Kroil. After a couple of days remove it and see if the center pin and cylinder have unstuck themselves.

A light tapping of the pin toward the rear end of the cylinder may encourage the separation. So might mild heating. All residue and/or rust must be cleared from the cylinder pin hole and anew pin installed to eliminate the overly worn area at the existing pin’s rear.

Besides the clean up, a gun this old should have all its internal parts closely examined. It is quite possible there’s more than one worn out spring in need of replacement along with the hammer. 24 Savage A customer brought me a Savage 24S-A O/U .22LR/20 gauge combo gun which has the break open lever on the right side of the receiver. The solder joint between the lever and the pivot pin for the locking lug had broken loose.

I disassembled the receiver parts and trigger group and resoldered the parts together with a very good bond. The problem is, now I cannot figure out how to get the trigger group back into the receiver behind the locking lug with the locking lug spring in the right position. It appears to me that I will have to cut off part of the hammer spur to get it up through the receiver. Surely there is a better way but I need help in figuring it out. Any suggestions out there? I’m running out of gray hairs to pull out.

Stu Grell Grell’s Gunsmithing We think you have a Model 24 DL and wonder if you’re tried the reassembly with the hammer in its fully forward, or fired, position. We also wonder if the solder joint, hopefully a silver soldered one, ended up thick and added to the lateral depth of the hammer, thereby causing the problem. Check with Savage on your model of the gun by serial number. It’s possible they have a hammer replacement. If not, there’s always the aftermarket.

Hi Standard Double Nine I have a Hi Standard Double Nine .22 revolver with a worn out barrel. This gun has an alloy frame. How do I remove the barrel without damaging the frame? I’ve removed the retaining pin but the barrel refuses to budge. The alloy frame worries us. So does your non-mention of a good, non-marring barrel vise. The latter is available from Brownells in several forms. For the frame, they also offer an action wrench and blank inserts you can machine to fit the contours of the revolver’s frame.

Do not under any circumstances use a block of wood or metal inserted through the cylinder opening to crank off the frame once the barrel is secured in its vise. While that technique has been known to work with steel framed revolvers and shotguns we’re not real sure about the strength of your frame. Bend it and you have a deep fresh water fishing sinker for your tackle box. Once the receiver wrench inserts have been well fit to the revolver you could try a couple of things.

One is the old cold/warm technique, with the receiver being warm and the barrel having undergone an icing near its union with the receiver. Another is to add a cheater bar to the action wrench providing you with more torque. But remember what we mentioned about that fresh water sinker. High Standard M-200 I’m looking for info on the High Standard M-200 12 gauge pump action shotgun, specifically, assembly/disassembly procedure.

Too bad the old High Standard went out of business and the company now making High Standard pistols, Firearms International, did not add shotguns to their production line. Such is the way things are and we can offer you little beyond two contacts. One is Mike Orlen, for many years our primary shotgun contributor and now doing business at michael.orlen@verizon. net. The other is G. W. Elliott, Inc in Hartford, CT a primary source for High Standard parts.

NEF Handi Rifles I have several NEF rifles in the shop with the same problem – a H&R, SB1 Al Howard and a standard Handi-Rifle. None of them fire consistently. Sometimes there is ignition and other times there is only a light strike to the primer. I have torn down the guns to check for burrs on the hammer and in the firing pin slot. One felt like there was some resistance to the firing pin going forward. The transfer bars are all the same thickness, although one does not have the angle top like the other two.

Dry firing the guns has the firing pin protruding 0.050 to 0.056 out of the firing pin hole. I know these rifles use the impact of the transfer bar into the firing pin and it can go father under impact and squeezing the trigger after firing shows an additional 0.010 to stick out. The hammer comes to rest on the back of the receiver with the transfer bar in place.

I would think that it would stop on the transfer bar instead of the receiver, however, I’m worried that the hammer will hit the back of the transfer bar if I file it down. Am I looking at this wrong or is there something else I’m missing? Dave Manney Locke, Stocke, and Barrell A differing transfer bar indicates that particular Handi-Rifle may not have been produced by the recent H&R entity H&R 1871. Lately acquired by Freedom Arms Group (Remington, Marlin, Bushmaster, NEF and who knows who else by now).

Firing pin protrusion on the Handi-Rifle was 0.066 but don’t file the hammer until knowing more of the rifle’s origins. Normally, one manufacturer will not service or supply parts for a gun made by another and the resistance you felt could be caused by an out-of-spec firing pin slot. Tom G Rossi Feed Problem I have been working on a Rossi copy of the Winchester Mod 1890 for a couple of weeks and cannot figure out what is wrong.

The rifle will fee one round from the magazine perfectly but if a second round is put in the magazine it will jam every time. Looking into

the action and reveals that the second round (in the magazine) is against the bullet of the first round (in the carrier) preventing the carrier from pivoting up in line with the chamber. It appears that the shell stop in the carrier is not working but no matter what I do it will not catch the second round. I can work the action slowly with nothing in the magazine the carrier will stick in the down position but if I work it sharply it works every time. The rifle is very old and wear is probably the culprit.

Do you have a picture or a drawing of the shell stop’s profile or any suggestions? Walter Erspamer You’re correct as this firearm is probably in need of several replacement parts after a thorough detail cleaning has been completed. Work the areas in order, cartridge stop and stop pin, magazine tube, magazine spring and follower, carrier lever spring and screw, plus here unspecified others. Next steps, experiment with several differing brands of .22 LR standard velocity ammunition.

They are not all identical in length or rim diameter/thickness. Which ever the rifle likes and functions with best should be used consistently. Do not use .22 shorts as chamber cavitation can result causing hard extraction. Avoid rapid fire. Allow the trigger to fully return before pumping the action to open/recock it. AMT 1911 I recently installed an Ed Brown beavertail on my 1911. In order to do that it was necessary to also install a Commander-style hammer.

While I had the pistol apart I also replaced the sear and the disconnector as I needed experience fitting the hammer/sear/ disconnector lock work. Of course, it follows that I just had to replace the grip safety and thumb safety too. I checked all of the sizes and angles of the sear, disconnector, and trigger. The trigger is a Wilson Combat but the sear and disconnector are quality noname replacement components. Upon reassembly I found that the trigger wouldn’t go back far enough to trip the sear.

In fact, the only way I could get the hammer to drop was to remove the magazine latch. After that the action worked perfectly but, obviously, the magazine wouldn’t stay in. I ordered a longer trigger but discovered that the bow isn’t longer. Instead, I curved the back surface about 1/8" of the original trigger with my Dremel tool. The trigger now curves nicely around the magazine catch, the action works fine and the gun meets all of the safety checks.

I took it to the range this morning and flawlessly fired 100 rounds of hardball ammunition. Did I screw up by modifying the trigger? Is there another way of solving the problem? One gunsmith told me that I had to modify the sear notch on the hammer. Another gunsmith informed me that any combination of sear-disconnector should work and I was stupid to attempt work like that. The last gunsmith said that my AMT Government 1911 was the problem— it was made by AMT!

I responded by telling him that I had it for 6 years and I put about 3000 rounds through it per year. It has never failed me in any way whatsoever. In fact, I was so impressed with AMT that I also bought an AMT Hardballer. It, too, has never failed me. David Kraykovic We feel we must begin our response with a question. If your AMT was working well—3000 rounds/year—what prompted you to want a beaver tail on it other than a cosmetic yen?

Such niceties may help avoid the dreaded slicing of the skin between your thumb and index finger but so will lowering the position of the hand on the grip and beavertails do not mechanically enhance accuracy. It’s possible the AMT frame was not manufactured to Colt specifications and M1911 parts meeting those specs may not fit. For example, we know Ed Brown manufactures his M1911 components to Colt specifications and not to those of AMT.

It might not have been the mag catch that was causing the problem but the frame itself being too high and preventing the trigger from being fully cocked by blocking it. At any rate, application of the Dremel, in your case, appears to have resolved things. Jerry Kuhnhausen’s Shop Manuals on the Model 1911 would help you. AG