Reader Forum

Browning A Bolt A customer brought in a Browning A-Bolt Medallion in .280 Remington that is missing the complete lower floor plate assembly, including the action screws. I ordered all the replacement parts from Browning and found that the assembly is 1.400 inches too long for this stock. I called the service department and they said these were the correct parts that just require some minor fitting.

This is a 1990 production rifle and I’m guessing there has been changes made to the design since but I haven’t been able to verify that. From looking at the stock it looks like it may have been a one piece floor plate since there is no hole in the stock for a forward trigger guard screw. I suspect that there was a change in the length of the hinge plate.

Skip Ritchie Skip’s Gun Repair No info on a possible engineering change but we think the fitting is better done by removing wood from the front or rear of the magazine well rather than removing metal from the floor plate assembly. Winchester 62 Where can I find a parts breakdown along with detailed disassembly and reassembly instructions of the Model 62 Winchester .22 pump rifle? The Gun Digest Book of Firearms Assembly/Disassembly Part III: Rimfire Rifles seems to cover all but the 62.

The newest Gun Digest book on rimfire rifles covers the Winchester Model 90. What appears there also applies to the Rossi copies of the Winchester 62 and 62A. Armi 9mm and Remington 67 I recently came across a Armi Fratelli Tanfoglio SPA model BTA-90 9mm pistol and am looking for an assembly/disassembly schematic. Also, I am looking for a front receiver screw for a Remington Model 67 .22 rifle and do not have the ability to make one. Would you where I can obtain one?

European American Armory and Tanfoglio-design pistols were once a major item. Call EAA regarding the schematics For the Remington, call Brownells and ask for a complimentary copy of the parts source list for out-of-production firearms. On it you’ll find some that specialize in Remington. Remington 1100 Safety I have Remington 1100 LT-20 that is a right hand gun but has a left hand safety. Can I change it to right hand safety without changing the whole trigger assembly?

The hole where the safety detent ball and spring resides is off set to the left a little so I guess it is left hand trigger assembly. Can you get a safety that would work right handed? We published an article on switching the Model 870 safety back in January 1999. In reviewing it prior to providing this response we became a little concerned about the complexity of the technique despite the fact that it works and is described in the Remington Armorer’s School manual for the 870 and 1100.

The article also referred our readers to Jerry Kuhnhausen’s shop manual on the two shotguns, available from Brownells. This manual goes so far as to include drill sizes and relocation of the detent ball and spring hole when performing the conversion. George Butler While we’ve done this work and know of many others who’ve done so successfully, our cautious nature inhibits our forging ahead regardless of the safety systems of any firearm.

We don’t believe Remington offers a separate safety but a complete trigger assembly might still be available that you can install in the gun and remove any possible liability on your part. Contact Remington Service Brad Pope Obviously, changing the position of the safety button will not change the direction in which the shotgun ejects. A right-handed shooter firing a gun made for left handers will still be bothered by the spent hulls flying across his or her face. Baby Hammerless I have been given a Henry M.

Kolb Baby Hammerless .22 caliber revolver. It needs quite a bit of work. Internally almost everything needs to be restored. The only schematic I’ve been able to find is for the model 1916. This particular piece is marked "PATS. APRIL 5.10/BABY HAMMERLESS/MODEL 1910" and the serial number (59) is located under the left side grip plate. I understand there is a slight difference between the 1916 and 1910 but do not know what it might be. Is there a schematic available for the 1910 and what are any differences?

RJ Litch Paulo de Mesquita St. Petersburg, Florida This pistol has been out of production since 1938 and had a folding trigger. In the condition you describe it can’t be worth more than $100, probably less. You can send a photo of the gun to the NRA National Firearms Museum, Fairfax, VA 22030 nramuseum. org) to see if they have any more data on the revolver.

We don’t but the fact that you have at least a date and year to provide might secure you a copy of the patent from the United States Patent and Trademark Office in Washington, DC (uspto.gov). Hanover Arms Shotgun I have a Hanover Arms side-by-side double barrel 12 gauge shotgun. I do not believe this gun has very much value but it was my grandfathers and

I would like to fix it up. The stock is in bad need of some repair. The gun has 2-1/2 inch chambers that I intend to ream out to 2-3/4 inch. When restored the gun will probably not be shot very much but I thought it would be safer to ream the chambers since the smaller shotshells aren’t readily available. Besides, this will make a good practice project.

The rib between the barrels is stamped "Belgium Fine Damascus." I know that damascus is good in the knife world but am wondering if this is as good in a shotgun barrel or something to be concerned about? Seems like I had heard something about them maybe shattering like a grenade when fired. Perhaps these barrels should not be fired at all? I would also like to reblue the gun but I know that it can’t be hot blued because of the soft soldered barrels. What would be the best method of rebluing it?

I have heard of slow rust and nitre bluing but I don’t know much about these methods. Would either of these methods be good for this application or would using a cold blue like Formula 44/40 be best? Several alarm bells are ringing. First, "Belgium Fine Damascus." Such barrels were made by hammering strips of steel around a mandrel. Place a modern shell in the chamber, close the action, pull the trigger and the barrel trying to digest that shell can unwind violently.

Second, this was probably a black powder gun and, if fired, would require ammunition charged with equivalent smokeless powder loads regardless of chamber length. The Hanover guns were made by Crescent Arms which dates back to 1892 and gained some fame, or infamy, for manufacturing shotguns on order stamped with the name of local hardware stores. We understand and sympathize with your attachment to shooting your grandfather’s gun.

We wouldn’t, unless you contact Briley Manufacturing (briley.com, and inquire about fitting it up with full length barrel inserts. This would mean reducing the gauge but would make the gun safe for modern loads. These inserts aren’t exactly cheap but they’re far more economical than a stay in the hospital. If your eventual decision is to transform the shotgun into an honored wall hanger we suggest you treat the object gently. We can’t determine stock S.

Jones condition unseen but its restoration will very likely require some filling, light sanding, restaining and drying. This could be followed by multiple applications of warm, boiled linseed oil, with at least 24 hours between applications, until a desired degree of gloss is obtained. The metal, if not badly pitted, can be cleaned of rust with 0000 synthetic steel wool and lightweight motor oil.

It should then be completely degreased, polished with a mild abrasive paste, degreased again and allowed to dry before applying the cold blue of your choice. After bluing, apply a film of water dispersing oil and you should end up with a quite handsome tribute to the memory of the old shotgun’s original owner. 1943 P38 9mm I took my P38 out to shoot. Upon firing the first round the extractor flew into my shirt pocket!

I was lucky as the ground was covered with leaves so I was able to retrieve the part, however, I’m at a loss as to what holds the extractor in. I don’t see anything in schematics I’ve reviewed. Rex J. Raine Retention is via the sear pivot pin and pressure on the extractor is applied by its spring. Remington 51 I am attempting to replace the extractor on a Remington Model 51 .380 ACP pistol.

In attempting to slide the end of the extractor in place and pry the extractor hook away enough to allow the round projection to drop into the hole in the bolt, the extractor cracked in the center. Is there a secret to getting the extractor end to slide in while getting the round projection in place? Trey Emmanuel Sounds like you got a bit too rough and broke the little fellow. The secret is to find a replacement or weld up and finish off the broken one in combination with patience. Don’t force things. AG