Reader Forum

M7400 Extraction Problems First, I love your magazine. I have a Remington Model 7400 in .270. Every few shells, the spent brass ejects about 1/4 inch and seems to swell into the chamber. If you bounce the bolt against the shell, the extractor grabs it and you can tap the bolt handle with a hammer to get the brass out. I’ve tried numerous brands of bullets and gotten the same result. The gun is clean and I have tried lots of lubricant, bone dry, and everything in between.

I had the same problem with a Model 742 in .243 and never figured it out. Please give me any ideas you have’no one else has ever heard of this. Thank you. You didn’t mention the age of the rifle, but there was a design change in the bolt about 30 years ago. (Remington used to retrofit the new bolt in the Model 7400 for a small service charge.) The problem you’re experiencing could be the result of poor timing as it relates to primary extraction.

This can be resolved by performing a modification to that part of the gas system located beneath the action bars. Unfortunately, no specifications have been published for this alteration. We suggest you return the rifle to Remington along with a copy of your query to us. They can do the work and might also change the bolt. The "small" service charge, however, is a thing of the past. Savage 1899 Questions? I have some questions about the Savage Model 1899 in .300 Savage. The gun shows "899" as the model number.

It is a takedown version with a straight stock and slightly curved buttplate. Am I assuming correctly that it’s a Model 1899? First question: The area where the model number is struck on the action is worn, so that the last numeral "9" is partially worn off. Is the value of a firearm greater if there is a "flaw" in the model-number stampings, like in coins with flaws? Would the lack of a stamping of the numeral "1" (so it reads 899 not 1899) make it more valuable? Or is there a Model 899?

Next question: The foregrip comes off readily enough, but when the barrel is rotated in the direction depicted on the barrel, the barrel doesn’t budge. It may be corroded, and sadly, it looks like someone took a screwdriver and a hammer to the slot in the base of the barrel in an attempt to get it to rotate. Is there something else that must be done to remove the barrel, besides just rotating it? My next step would be penetrating oil and ultrasonic cleaning. Or should I try something else?

According to the Standard Catalog of Firearms (Krause Publications), you most likely have a Model 99-F Lightweight Takedown Rifle. If the stock wears a pistol grip, it’s a Model 99-G Delux Takedown Rifle. There is no mention of a Model 899 in the catalog or in the Blue Book of Gun Values. We doubt, in any case, that a "light hit" or "no hit" on the stamping would affect the value of the gun significantly. We’re sorry we can’t give you a quick fix for the damage to the barrel.

But before you attack it with a barrel vise and receiver wrench, we suggest you contact John Hinnant San Antonio, TX 78269) and seek his advice. Loose Benelli Barrel Thanks for your presence and your support in the past. It’s great to know you’re out there. Here’s my latest problem. I was able to acquire a Benelli M1 Super 90 slug 12-gauge for myself for a price I couldn’t believe. It’s had a lot of use, but with the 10-shot tube, slug barrel, and black furniture, I was smitten.

I bought it "as is." Now I know why the barrel won’t stay put and the action won’t cycle Technical Assistance Hotline To access AGA’s Technical-Assistance Hotline, call between 1 and 3 p.m. ET, Monday, Wednesday, and Friday once at all other times, you can send an email to Chick Blood, Technical Editor, at with the barrel in place; disassembly gave the answer. The barrel "loop" that slips over the mag tube and secures the barrel has detached itself from the barrel. Now, my question: Both parts are ferrous (steel).

Can I electric "microweld" (with a small rod and low heat) the loop back onto the barrel once I determine exactly where? I anticipate it was soldered on, but the previous owner removed the material and prepared the surfaces, so I don’t know. The trouble would be if the barrel is out of line’t hese are pretty close tolerances’not to mention that shooting the barrel out of the receiver isn’t my idea of a good time. I don’t want to solder the loop on, as the strength isn’t there for 3-inch 12-gauge.

Can I weld it on if I’m careful and don’t ruin the barrel? Silver soldering would require a lot of heat. The loop you describe is a separate, forward sling-support piece that works in partnership with a swivel plate in the buttstock. At least that’s how it’s identified in the owners’ manual for the M1 Super 90. The support slips over the mag tube and is held in place by the magazine cap. It was never attached to the barrel…not by the factory, anyway.

The barrel and magazine tube are joined at their muzzle ends by a retaining ring that resembles a "figure 8." A screw runs through the retainer and serves as a means of tightening the relationship. The locking lugs of the barrel extension may be worn and causing the looseness. According to the manual we have, barrel/breech assemblies are not restricted. If the receiver ways are worn, however, you’re looking at a factory-only repair. Check a couple of other things as well. There is supposed to bearound

(continued from previous page) washer and a spring washer present where the mag tube joins the forend. If absent, the tube could be so loose it’s affecting the barrel. Another washer, a thicker one, should show up inside the front end of the buttstock where it joins the receiver. If it’s missing, it could be the reason your barrel isn’t seating properly in the receiver. German Weatherby Parts? Do you have any idea who would have a safety for a German Weatherby? Thanks.

There are two types of safeties because there are two types of trigger assemblies. One is old, and one is new. One safety is on the bolt, and one is on the trigger. We called Weatherby. They need the caliber of the rifle and the serial number before they’ll know if they have the safety you need. Call the factory or look up the authorized service center nearest you on the internet and call them with the necessary information. Remington 788 Light Hits I have a Remington 788 in .243 caliber that occasionally misfires.

The firing pin will dent the primer, but not fire the round. (The same reloaded ammo will fire fine in another rifle.) I had room to turn the bolt plug 360 degrees tighter, tightening the mainspring. I also tried turning it the other way, but neither produced afire. The firing pin and spring both look okay. Is turning the plug the right thing to do, or am I completely on the wrong track? Thanks. You could be dealing with a broken, binding, or short firing pin or a weakened firing-pin spring.

Sometimes these parts appear to be fine, and you usually can’t tell if a spring has gone weak just by looking at it. Installing anew pin and spring would be a good place to start. It’s also possible that the sear is binding or the trigger mechanism is out of adjustment. If either of these are the problem, the rifle will have to be returned to the factory.

Milling 1911 for Novak Sight How much milling has to be done to a Springfield Armory GI .45 ACP slide to change the rear sight from the GI sight to a Novak Adjustable rear sight? Does the existing dovetail just need to be enlarged at the front to accept the Novak sight, or does a flat also have to be milled on the rear of the slide? Any help you can give this old "smith will be most appreciated. Thanks. The Novak Adjustable dovetail requires a 65-degree cutter and is .495 inch deep.

Use a machinist’s bubble level to true the completely strippeddown slide between padded vise jaws. Make no milling cuts that extend forward of the original dovetail. Cut anew dovetail the same depth as the original, .770 inch forward of the rear edge of the slide. At the upper front edge of the original dovetail, make a cut no deeper than .150 inch to accommodate the hinge on the Novak.

Finally, here’s a fitting tip directly from Novak: Elevate the front of the slide to be out of level by half a bubble, then mill a 1/8-inch wide, very slight taper just aft of the new dovetail’s upper edge. Rebarrel Remington Model 74? I have in the shop a Remington Model 74 Sportsman semi-auto rifle in 30.06. The customer wants anew barrel installed due to his lack of cleaning the chamber, resulting in’as you can guess’a rusty chamber. Oddly enough, the bore is bright and shiny.

He’s interested in rechambering the rifle for .270 Win. Is this a recommended swap? I looked up the part numbers and the barrel is available. What about headspace with this type of bolt/barrel lockup? Should I try to lightly polish the .30-06 chamber (if no pits show up) and Cerrosafe a cast for dimensions? Thank you.

If you can purchase a .270 barrel from Remington, or find one made by Remington for the Model 74, that would indicate that pressure and compatibility should not be a problem with the caliber change under consideration. Final checking for correct headspace should be conducted with the proper "go" and "no-go" gauges. Hopefully, the chamber has only a thin deposit of rust with no pitting beneath it. In that case, rust removal and polishing would be sufficient.

The rifle would still be .30-06, of course, but that’s a fine round for deer-size and larger game. Finally, the only reason you might need a chamber cast is if you’re concerned about removing too much metal in the rust removal/polishing job you perform on the old barrel.