Reader Forum

Model 422 Disassembly Could you tell me where I can find disassembly and reassembly instructions with an exploded view of the Smith & Wesson Model 422 semiautomatic pistol? Dennis Johnson Coeur d’Alene< Idaho Both your requests are answered by Gun Digest Their book on disassembly/reassembly dedicated to semi-auto pistols includes the S&W Model 622, which is a stainlesssteel version of the 422. Their book of exploded gun drawings includes the 422 along with 974 others.

Doubling Fox I have a Fox Model Bin 20 gauge with double triggers. During this year’s dove hunt, the gun started firing both barrels when the back trigger was pulled. I have back issues of AG for a lot of years, but don’t remember an article on the Fox. I also need disassembly info and a source of parts if any are needed. Any advice or information you can provide would be appreciated. Doubling in a double gun is usually caused by poor trigger-to-sear engagement.

When one barrel is fired, the second barrel is jarred off at the same time. This is due to wear in most cases. Unless you’re skilled in the necessary arts, we’d recommend against welding or silver-soldering up the related parts and reshaping them. It would be better to replace whatever is worn. Takedown instructions and a schematic are in the NRA Guide to Firearms Assembly (hard cover edition). Parts are probably available from Jack First Bulged .22 Cases I have a 550.1 Remington in the shop for broken firing pin.

I replaced the firing pin and test fired the gun. I got a good solid hit, the gun fired, but did not extract. I tried to push the empty out with rod, but it would not move. I disassembled the gun and found that the case was bulged in the middle. This one has a recoiling chamber, and it appears that the case is bulging in the gap. I went through this three times with the same results. I’m missing something here. Have you ever run into this before? How did you correct it? Thanks’any help will be appreciated.

Our best guess is that a large amount of .22 Short ammo has been fired through the rifle. These pills let loose at the juncture of the floating chamber and the rear of the barrel. Fire cutting’erosion’is the result, along with a generous amount of residue. Then, when a .22 LR is discharged in the enlarged chamber, the case mouth expands to fill the cavity created by the Shorts, and hard or no extraction results. If the erosion isn’t too severe, take out the chamber and brush it as clean as possible.

Do the same with the end of the barrel. In cases where the chamber is too eroded and cleaning doesn’t help, anew chamber will be needed. The last we heard, Nu-Line Guns had a few of these still available. Universal/IJ 30 Carbine Can you tell me which issue, if any, has an article about the Universal Arms 30 Carbine or Iver Johnson 30 Carbine? Thank you. JR Weaver Fair Grove, Missouri There was an article on the M1 Carbine in the February 96 issue, which covered repair and refurbishing.

We hope you’ve been an AGA member since then and have kept your past issues, because a reprint going back that far is no longer available. Both the Universal and Iver Johnson were close clones of the military M1 Carbine, though not as high in quality. Instructions for disassembly and reassembly appear in Gun Digest’s book dedicated to centerfire rifles, and would apply to both Universal and Iver Johnson copies.

If you have to get deeper into servicing, we recommend Jerry Kuhnhausen’s shop manual on the M1 Carbine (from Brownells). Binding Ruger SP101 I have a Ruger SP101 in .357 Magnum with a 2-1/4-inch barrel. The cylinder rubs against the rear end of the barrel. Where can I obtain (1) complete disassembly instructions and (2) an exploded parts diagram? Any idea what the problem is? Back in November 92, we published an article on smoothing the action of

the SP101. This issue is long ago out of print, but all is not lost. Takedown instructions are published in Gun Digest’s book on the subject devoted to revolvers and a schematic is shown in their book of exploded handgun drawings. While they would be helpful, none of the aforementioned books addresses your problem specifically, and without having the revolver in hand we can’t make a precise diagnosis. However, close the cylinder and see if there’s a lot of movement fore and aft.

This would indicate excessive endshake, and the cylinder could be rebounding forward to contact the barrel. This can be corrected by installing an end-shake washer or washers (Brownells). Now open the cylinder and spin it with two fingers. If there is any wobble in the spinning, it indicates the crane is bent, with the result that the cylinder is not revolving true and is making contact with the barrel. A bent crane can be straightened.

Instructions are somewhat lengthy for publication in this forum, but are included in Jerry Kuhnhausen’s Shop Manual for Ruger Double Action Revolvers (also available from Brownells). A third possibility exists. The caserim thickness of .357 ammo’and all other ammo for that matter’can vary from maker to maker. A thick rim could bind the action or, in your case, force the cylinder into contact with the barrel. By the way, the SP 101 is very much alive in Ruger’s present lineup and Brownells has parts for it.

Mistimed Double Nine Several months ago, I had a customer bring in a Hi-Standard Double Nine .22 revolver. It was literally in pieces, with missing and broken parts. I have located replacement parts and reassembled it, but I can’t get it to time properly in either single or double action. I have disassembled and reassembled it several times, and I’m sure its put together properly. Any information you can give me or if there is any manuals I could obtain would be greatly appreciated.

Ninety-nine times out of a hundred, a timing problem can be traced to the hand. It’s either too short or too long and isn’t rotating the cylinder into alignment with the barrel for lockup. In some cases, a short hand can be lightly peened into conformity. An over-length hand can be carefully filed, stoned, and polished to fit. Another less likely possibility are badly worn ratchets. In that case, rather than trying to reform them back into working order, we’d look around for replacements.

Ithaca/Remington Questions I have a couple of questions: 1) Has there been an article on the assembly/ disassembly of the Model 51 Ithaca? And 2) Have you done an article about replacing the extractors on the Remington 721 with rivets using the newer Model 700 extractors? If you have, please let me know which issue they where in. Thank you. The Model 51 went out of production in 1985 and we have not covered it to date.

Anew company, Ithaca Guns USA, LLC, is now manufacturing the Model 37 and is developing anew autoloader. They are, however, now able to provide parts for the M51 and Mag 10. We’re working with them to arrange an article on the original M51. So stay tuned.

There are two reasons why no articles have been done on Remington 721 extractors and 700 extractors: 1) The bolt faces aren’t compatible; and 2) a 700 bolt would have to be in- Technical Assistance Hotline To access AGA’s Technical-Assistance Hotline, call between 1 and 3 p.m. ET, Monday, Wednesday, and Friday once at all other times, you can send an email to Chick Blood, Technical Editor, at stalled in the 721. This would be very tricky to achieve, since Remington bolts are restricted to factory-only service.

Rechamber Arisaka? I have a customer who wants to rechamber an Arisaka 6.5 Jap to a more available ammo type. The 6.5 Jap ammo is costing him an arm and a leg. Any help on this would be appreciated. If this is possible, could you recommend someone who could do this at a reasonable price? Thank you in advance. You didn’t mention whether the caliber is 6.5 x 50 or 6.5 x 51 (rimmed). Regardless, your customer may want to consider reloading his own ammo.

Caliber 6.5 x 50 can be formed from .30-06 brass, and 6.5 x 51 from .303 Savage. As for rechambering, go to the S. A. A. M. I. web site (www.saami. org) to confirm which caliber or calibers would be most compatible. If the information isn’t on their site, you can write to S. A. A. M. I. at Newtown, CT 06470. Franchi Barrel? I hope you can direct me to the correct place to have an extractor replaced on a Franchi barrel (an old Remingtonstyle copy, I believe).

It appears to be welded into the rear of the barrel, and then polished to where it’s almost impossible to see that it was attached in this way. Thanks in advance for your assistance. We think you’re referring to the ejector, not the extractor. Extractors are located in the bolt. Ejectors are per-

(continued from previous page) manently mounted in the receiver or barrel extension of most shotguns. Depending on the model, Franchi shotguns are now under the wing of Benelli USA Your gun may be so old that they won’t have a replacement barrel available. That, of course, would mean an extensive search through the aftermarket or for the services of a barrel maker. Balky Bryco I have an Bryco JA-9mm semi-auto pistol that’s in need of repair. If I chamber around by hand, it works, and chambers like it should.

But when I fire the gun and it tries to chamber the next round, when the round comes out of the magazine it won’t lock up, and the round gets caught in the slide. This pistol has got me stumped. Any information will be helpful. Thanks. Around 1990, Bryco was shattered by a guilty verdict and a huge monetary damage award for an accidental shooting on the West Coast. Today, according to the Blue Book, Bryco is a current manufacturer in California, but their pistols are sold exclusively by F. A.

Jennings, a distributor in Carson City, Nevada. Neither organization was present at the most recent SHOT Show, and neither are listed in the industry directories published by such periodicals as Shooting Industry and Gun Digest. Compounding that, no 9mm "J" model (a caliber .22) Bryco pistol shows up in the current edition of the Standard Catalog of Firearms. None of this directly addresses your problem, of course; we merely wanted you to be aware of the vacuum within which you’re working.

Bryco was not noted for using the highest quality materials in their pistols. As a result, they’re subject to wear. We wonder if wear has occurred in the grip-frame area and the magazine isn’t locking in fully upward. If so, a partial or complete bolt override can occur producing a failure to chamber. The bolt could also drag somewhat on a hesitant round. Pondering further, the magazine itself may be the root of the problem by releasing around too early or too late. A replacement might cure this.

Lacking a replacement, you might try adjusting the magazine feed lips. Finally, we understand the pistol doesn’t function well, if at all, with hollowpoint ammunition. Info on the .308 x 1.5 Do you have any info on the .308 x 1- 1/2? It looks like an interesting cartridge, although I don’t see chambering reamers or dies listed anywhere. Thanks. Bob Reno, Nevada The cartridge, a wildcat, was developed by Frank Barnes in 1961. It’s official name is the .308 x 1.5 Barnes.

There is considerable information on it in Cartridges of The World. Currently, with the possible exception of T/C single-shot pistols, no firearms we’re aware of are chambered for the round. In the past, a Swedish Model 96 and a Remington Rolling Block chambered for the round produced outstanding accuracy. Forming and reloading dies may be available from RCBS on special order. For reamers, check with Clymer Manufacturing Bound Up Browning Gold I am working on a Browning Gold 12gauge semi-auto shotgun.

The customer complained about an occasional misfire after approximately 20 rounds. The gun was extremely dirty, so I cleaned the entire gun with special attention to the trigger group. I checked the headspace with go and no-go gauges, then reassembled and test fired with a snap cap. Everything checks out okay. Could a weak hammer/main spring be a culprit here or do you think the excessive crud and gunk could have been the cause?

Also if I need to disassemble the trigger group for replacing parts, I will need a source for a manual. Do you have a manual available in your archives? Thanks for your help. Unfortunately, this gun differs from all other Browning shotguns. We have it on our to-do list of future articles, but that won’t address your immediate problem. We did, however, have a chat with a Browning engineer. He believes the problem was due to the fouling you cleaned up.

As for replacing the spring in the trigger group, it’s a two-minute job. There’s a single pin at the back of the mechanism. Remove it and you’ll have access to the spring. There is no field-service manual on the Browning Gold. The folks at Browning apparently never got around to preparing one.