Reader Forum

Anschutz 141 Disassembly I’m looking for a schematic for an Anschutz 141 (#509149). My customer has had this gun since the mid-60s and has never had it apart, even to clean it. The safety quit working properly and I need to disassemble the trigger group. Any information on where I can get info would be appreciated. I’ve been searching the internet and can’t find much information.

A schematic for the 141 appears in Jack First’s catalog of parts, Volume II Every gunsmith should have this catalog, because it’s dedicated to obsolete and out of production firearms. We believe the present importer for Anschutz is Champion’s Choice, in La Vergne, Tennessee. Anschutz, an offshore manufacturer, holds a deep and abiding dislike for anyone outside their organization who dares to touch their firearms’new or old.

Regardless of this possessiveness, you can still detail clean the rifle by removing the wood, field stripping it, and forcing mineral spirits repeatedly into its components with a rubber squeeze bulb. Use compressed air to dry out the parts, then lubricate lightly. If the safety is damaged and the cleaning doesn’t free it up, you may have to arrange with Champion’s Choice for replacement/repair. Speeding Up the 1100 I have a Remington 1100. The gas action runs normal.

I use the shotgun for bowling-pin competitions and sometimes shoot faster than the action will function, meaning I pull the trigger on an empty chamber. I thought I had read an article or a tech tip on away to make the 1100 action function a little faster. In the February 01 issue we ran an article on the Sure Cycle recoil system for shotguns which claimed a 40-percent increase in cyclic rate for gasoperated guns.

Since yours is a Model 1100, its action-spring tube is an integral part of the receiver, which means you’ll have to cut off the tube and weld on the Sure Cycle tube in its place. From there on, installation is very simple. SRM Performance Products make the Sure Cycle As reported in the article, the system works, but you should also check for signs of drag related to the actionbar assembly plus the link and actionspring tube.

Also, your action spring may have become weakened, in which case it should be replaced with anew one. Too bad you’re not able to locate a working Winchester Model 12. Sure it’s a pump gun, but you could hold the trigger back after the first shot, work that slide as fast as you can. Gas guns don’t let you do that. Misfiring Mossberg I was given a Mossberg Model 88 Maverick, 12 gauge 2-3/4 to 3-inch shotgun to repair. The customer, a first-time gun owner, told me he purchased the gun in December of last year.

He fired a couple hundred rounds through it without problems. Then, he inadvertently fired off a 16 gauge shell. Of course, that stuck in the barrel. After that was fixed without damage to anything, he went through about 75 rounds and then the gun started to fail. He stated that he was able to fire only one out of five or six rounds. The next day, it wouldn’t fire at all. He further stated the shells did not have any FP indention. The ammo used was Winchester 2-3/4-inch target loads.

I’ve disassembled the gun and have found no problems. The shell stops are not bent or damaged. Everything seemed to work as it is supposed to. I Technical Assistance Hotline To access AGA’s Technical-Assistance Hotline, call between 1 and 3 p.m. ET, Monday, Wednesday, and Friday once at all dan email to Chick Blood, Technical Editor, at asked if he was sure that the gun was properly locked with the slide all the way to the closed/locked position. He stated that it was.

The only thing I have noticed is the FP spring is extremely stiff and the FP protrusion is not as it should be. The FP tip is not broken, and the FP seems to be straight. Any suggestions as to the cause? Bill Hewitt, Longmont, Colorado The Maverick 88 and Mossberg 500 are mechanically the same. First, fire the shotgun yourself (factory ammo) just to make certain the owner is locking the bolt fully forward as he claims. (Somehow, we doubt it.) If the light hits persist, remove, clean, and lubricate the extractors.

Check the boltslide position and bolt lock in the barrel extension. Make sure the firing pin is properly installed’t he flat on its rear should be parallel to its retaining pin. If that doesn’t solve the problem, replace the firing pin and its spring, and clear the firing-pin hole in the bolt face of any existing burrs. .22 Conversions I plan to build a .22 Long Rifle-caliber pistol for serious target shooting on a .45 caliber 1911 Colt frame.

I have seen advertising for Ceiner, Kimber, Marvel, and Wilson conversion units. Are there more units available? Do you know if any of these units are accurate enough for bull’s-eye competition? Also any addresses, phone numbers, etc. would be appreciated. The best, most accurate .22 conversion ever made for the M1911 was designed and produced by Fred Kart. Unfortunately, he no longer makes them, and if you happened to find an

(continued from previous page) owner willing to part with one, the cost would probably be somewhere between $1,400 and $2,000 dollars. In our opinion, worth it. We haven’t checked out the Kimber unit as yet. We hope to secure one at the SHOT Show in February. Of those you’ve mentioned, Wilson or Marvel would be our recommendation as of this date. We’d hesitate on the Ceiner. It requires the use of highvelocity ammunition, which is not as accurate as standard velocity for bull’s-eye competition.

Replacing Rem Mag Tube? Can you point me in the direction of info on how to remove an old and install anew magazine tube on a Remington 1100? From the looks of it, it appears that the tube is soldered into place in the receiver, but I haven’t been able to find any information to confirm this observation nor data on how to make the swap. Thanks for your help. You didn’t mention why you want to "swap" the mag tube.

If it’s dented, the damage can be undone with a hydraulic dent raiser (Brownells) or by fabricating a wooden dowel so one end is rounded and the the dowel is a snug fit in the tube. By inserting the rounded or narrowed end, and rotating the dowel when it contacts the dent while continuing to push it into the tube, the dent can be raised. In any case, the tube of the 1100 is indeed soldered into the receiver. Silver-solder is used by the factory, so high heat would be needed to melt it free.

Such heat could damage or weaken the receiver, and at the very least the receiver would have to be reblued. If you can’t raise the dent or if there is another problem with the tube, we suggest you send it to Remington Factory Service in Ilion, New York. Extractor Extraction I’ve subscribed to this publication for quite some time now and wanted to let you know what a excellent source of information it is. As for my question, I have a Colt Woodsman Match Target .22-caliber semi-auto pistol, serial #089710S.

I want to replace the extractor. (I’ve referenced two disassembly manuals and both have different procedures.) After rotating the extractor 180 degrees and then pulling out on the extractor, it hangs up when the base starts to come out. Is there another step I’ve overlooked? Thank you. There’s nothing wrong with your method. Something must be hanging up the rear of the extractor. It could be a burr in the extractor tunnel of the bolt or on the tail of the extractor itself, or maybe a combination of both.

And there is probably some seriously impacted fouling that’s helping to hold things up. You didn’t mention it, so we assume the back end of extractor isn’t bent out of shape or deformed. Disassembling the BAR I’m looking for instructions on the disassembly of a BAR with a removable trigger assembly.

I’ve worked on dozens of BARs on which you remove the trigger assembly and bolt out the back of the receiver, but now I have one in the shop that has the "new, easily removed assembly." That part is true, but how in the world do you remove the bolt? It won’t slip out the back, through the bottom, nor have I had any luck "beaming it out" with my grandson’s Star Trek communicator/phaser/teleporter. I suspect the timing latch on the bolt is broken, but I can’t get to it to see.

The rifle was built in 1992 according to the serial number (NY), but to my limited knowledge, this model didn’t come out until 1993. (I realize this is close, so it could have been either one.) Any help? Danny Griner Norman Park, Georgia Your rifle is a Mark II Model. After speaking with Browning engineers, we learned that it’s necessary to remove the cocking handle. After that, and with the stock removed, the bolt can then be pushed to the rear of the receiver and taken out the bottom.

BPS Feeding Problem Solved For the benefit of readers who have had feeding problems with the BPS, we’ve found that the problem often lies with the injection-molded feedtube follower. It will warp and swell with heat. We make anew one out of acetal plastic (Delrin), with the small diameter a few thousandths smaller than the original and the spring seat shallower to give a little more spring force at the end.

This solves the problems of not feeding the second shot and not feeding after a few shots have heated up the gun. Harold Parks Minden, Nevada Thanks, Harold, for the tip.