Reader Forum

Misfiring Winchester 1300 I have a Winchester Model 1300 12gauge shotgun serial #L27660XX that occasionally misfires. The misfires show light primer hits. The cartridge usually fires after the second attempt. I have replaced the firing pin, and the problem still occurs. Comparing all of the parts and their fit to another similar shotgun, there are no obvious differences in parts wear or free play. What do you recommend as a next step? Thank you.

Terence Rybak Pinckney, Michigan Since the gun does not fail to fire consistently on the second shot and shows a primer hit, we don’t suspect improper assembly of the firing mechanism. At least that doesn’t appear to be the culprit from what you have said. Make certain no foreign matter or other obstruction in the breech is interfering with the bolt going fully into battery. If that doesn’t solve the problem, replace the firing-pin spring and hammer spring.

AMT Backup Modifications I have a stainless AMT Backup in .45 ACP. I would like to experiment with changing the geometry of the hammer and trigger in order to reduce trigger pull. What kind of stainless steel would work best to fabricate the hammer and trigger in order to withstand the stresses and hold up the shear angles? Any other advice you can toss in would be appreciated. You’d want to use ordnance steel, if you can find it in stainless.

First, however, we’re concerned that changing the "geometry" of the hammer and trigger indicates you’re going to alter their engagement angles. This is a nono. You can reduce them slightly, polish them brightly without changing them, but you really shouldn’t be attempting to create a light trigger pull for a purely defensive pistol anyway. There’s too much of a chance for misfires, as we keep telling policemen who bring their duty weapons in complaining of heavy trigger pulls.

Universally, they go away happy after we’ve worked over their guns by reducing as much friction as possible with a mediumto ultrafine-grit polishing. We even polish hammer/trigger/sear pins. The pull feels lighter because it’s smoother, while the gun’s reliability is unchanged. You’re further advised to have spare parts on hand for your Backup, in case you go too far with your geometric alterations.

As this issue goes to press, your best chance of finding them is Survival Enterprises, Coeur d’Alene, Idaho Browning Stock Finish I need to touch up a stock repair on a Japanese Browning Citori. What material will bond to the original Browning finish? I believe it is epoxy-based. The repaired area will be too large to use the super-glue trick. If we knew for certain which finish was applied to the stock in its manufacturing process we could advise you. But we don’t.

These things are changed from time to time for a multiplicity of reasons. In your case, we suggest you call Browning provide the serial number of your shotgun, and ask them about the finish used. Since you are not inquiring about mechanical changes, they should have no qualms about providing the information. Powder Coating Warning In the article on powder coatings (March 06), the writer stated a kitchen oven or smaller kitchen appliance could be used to cure the coating.

He failed to mention three significant Technical Assistance Hotline To access AGA’s Technical-Assistance Hotline, call between 1 and 3 p.m. ET, Monday, Wednesday, and Friday onat all dan email to Chick Blood, Technical Editor, facts: (1) The oven or appliance must be electric, never gas; (2) ventilation must be superior; (3) the oven or appliance can never thereafter be used in the preparation of food. Fumes may or may not be a severe risk to health depending on the formulation of the coating.

Please pass this along to your readers. John Rodelbaker Texas Thanks for the heads up, John. Installing Muzzle Brake Is there any way to install a muzzle brake properly without using a lathe? There are muzzle brakes held to the barrel with screws, for which case you’d need a reliable drill press and a drill-table vise. Use a drill-depth stop to ensure you won’t break through the bore. The B-Square Tru-Taper is the perfect tool for threading the holes.

Scope-Mounting Advice I have really enjoyed AGA’s American Gunsmith, but need some specific help. Would you have a recommended book that would cover scope mounting or a back issue that has a comprehensive article? I have purchased an .06 in a Mauser large-ring action. A previous owner had mounted a scope on it but misaligned the Weaver bases so the front base has a shim on one side where the scope ring attaches. The rear mount doesn’t seem to really mount flat on the receiver either.

I need to raise the scope a little to clear the bolt with a Butler Creek snap cap cover installed. I was going to just shim the whole system up but my gun dealer said this would make the mounting screws

(continued from previous page) more easily sheared off in recoil. Since the mounts aren’t really square anyway, he suggested using Leupold mounts, and filling the current holes and drilling new ones in new metal. I, being cheap, am thinking of just using a mill to slightly egg the holes in the new mount, getting a scope-alignment tool from Brownells, and squaring them up that way. Since I’m only shooting in the dark on how, I thought I’d ask for any suggestion you may have. Thank you.

Sounds like you’re a perfect candidate for "The Poor Man’s Method for Scoping Ex-Military Rifles" by Russell Corbitt in the January 05 issue. But rather than "egging" the mount holes (we know of no egg-shaped mounting screws to fill them) we recommend you fill the existing holes with blind screws (Brownells) and redrill/tap per the instructions in the aforementioned article. Spanner Wrench Tip Here’s a simple technique for making a spanner wrench for guns with bushed firing pins.

Start by brushing a thin coat of paint or nail polish on the bushing. Before the coating dries, place apiece of paper over and press it evenly against the bushing. Paint will adhere to the paper except where the bushing holes are located. This is your template. Remove it and let it dry. Tack glue that template to whatever round stock you plan to use. Steel is recommended. Bring out your drill bits and select the one that is a perfect match for the bushing holes in the template.

Determine the drilling depth by measuring the depth of the bushing holes, then drill the stock in use to the same depth with the chosen drill bit. Some drill bits are softer on the non-cutting end. If that’s so in your case, they’ll make perfect new pins for your spanner. If not, use drill rod of the same diameter and press fit them into the tool head. For the best support, the pins should be the same length as the depth of the holes in the tool. Eugene Kilcomins South Amboy, New Jersey Great idea, Eugene. Thanks.

Repairing Water Damage I’ve been asked by a friend who lived in St. Bernard Parish, Louisiana, to try to save her deceased husband’s gun collection. St. Bernard is one of the areas devastated by Hurricane Katrina and hit hard again by Hurricane Rita. The guns sat for over a month after being submerged twice by toxic flood waters before she was able to return home to salvage them. They were the only thing she saved from her home. They are rusted badly, some to the point that I can not manipulate the actions.

I would appreciate any help or suggestions you can offer for freeing them, rust removal, and surface preservation. I’ve sprayed them thoroughly with Rem Oil several times with little effect. Thanks. For more details, you’ll want to look for George Roghaar’s article on restoring water-damaged guns in the March 06 issue. But briefly, you should remove all wood and submerge the remaining metal in penetrating oil for several days. Lacking a sufficient quantity of oil, use kerosene or mineral spirits.

Occasionally flush out the bolts and firing mechanisms with a squeeze bulb full of the fluid. Once you are able to field strip the guns, continue the soaking and flushing of all metal parts and assemblies. Filter the bath to remove collected fouling that has fallen to the bottom of the container or replace the fluid. Employ the mildest of steel wool or ultra fine emery cloth to remove surface rust. Don’t bear down; doing so can scrub off bluing.

Ideally, each gun should be detail stripped so all internal rust can be brushed, the parts examined for additional damage and, where necessary, replaced. Dry the cleaned gun with compressed air, and lightly lubricate internally with a Teflon-based product.

External metal can be wiped down with a clean cloth moistened with water-dispersing oil (Brownells) or sprayed with Birchwood Casey’s Sheath or Dura Coat Clear Inter Arms Mark X Parts I’m trying to find parts for an Inter- Arms Mark X, especially the safety screw and friction ball. I haven’t had any luck with Numrich Arms. The last information we had indicated that Charles Daly (KBI, Inc.) was stocking and selling the Mark X Mauser. The phone number is If you strike out there, try M&M Gunsmithing at