Reader Forum

Revolver Solver I have a .38 caliber, 2-inch-barrel revolver that has a keyholing problem. As I remember reading some time ago, this problem is caused by misalignment of the cylinder chamber to the forcing cone. If this assumption is correct, what is the correct procedure for correcting the problem? Al Skuce True, the problem could be caused by misalignment between the cylinder and barrel. When the forcing cone becomes involved, there’s usually some lead spitting. Is this happening with your revolver?

If it is not, the cylinder yoke may be at the root of your problem, as could poorly reloaded ammunition or erosion of the forcing come. There are too many possibilities to provide corrective measures for each in this space. An article on servicing S&W revolvers appeared in the October 94 issue. Unfortunately, reprints of that issue are no longer available. All is not lost, however. Brownells offers Jerry Kuhnhausen’s S&W Revolvers: A Shop Manual, which covers cylinder realignment and forcing cone work in detail.

You didn’t mention whether or not your gun was a Smith & Wesson, but the information in the Kuhnhausen book can be applied to S&W clones and even Colt DA revolvers, although he wrote a separate shop manual on Colts, which is also available from Brownells. Are these books useful?

At the conclusion of a week-long session at the S&W Armorer’s School, the lead instructor said: "If you forget anything we’ve taught you, just read Kuhnhausen’s book." Python Barrel-Cylinder Gap I have a Colt Python in which someone has fired high-powered .357 Magnum shells, causing a greater gap between the barrel and cylinder. There is a star impregnated on the back of the frame by the locking pin, caused by the lugs on the cylinder.

This has also apparently closed the hole slightly in which the locking pin rides, because the cylinder is now hard to open. I can hone the hole to smooth the action on the locking pin, but I need some advice on how to clean up the frame and close the barrel gap. Ernie Garner The Python is the Rolls Royce of Colt’s DA line, and has been chambered for .357 Magnum since the beginning. The single exception was the short-lived Python .38 Special. We’re assuming that’s the revolver you have.

The star shape you see on the frame is an imprint of the cylinder ratchet. Recoil did it. From what you say there is also damage to the frame, a .38 being much lighter than a .357. We think it’s been stretched and/or bent. A clean up won’t resolve this abused gun’s problems. What’s really needed here is anew frame and a factory overhaul. Don’t Cut Springs I’ve been a member of the American Gunsmithing Association for several years. When I joined, I received the book Learn Gunsmithing—The Troubleshooting Method.

I enjoyed reading it, learned a lot of valuable information, and refer to it and other books and manuals when I encounter anew problem. The one thing that bothered me when I first read the book was the reference to cutting springs. This has continued to grate on my mind to the point that I am writing you to request that you consider reviewing and revising the references to cutting springs in future additions of this fine reference for beginning gunsmiths. My advice on cutting or grinding springs is don’t!

Springs today are cheap and readily available from places like Brownells, Midway, Dillon’s, and Wolff. Much of the work I do is on 1911-style semi-automatic pistols. Many that I receive have reliability problems. These include light hits on the primer with a failure of the round to discharge, rounds that don’t fully chamber (stovepipes), the hammer following the slide causing a second round to be discharged, and a number of sporadic problems that only went away when the springs were replaced.

One of the problems with cutting a spring is that it does not reduce the weight of the spring, but reduces its operating length. On my trigger jobs, which go from a 4-1/2-pound "hardball" trigger to 2-pound plusor-minus Bills triggers, I replace the factory main spring with a 17-pound Wolff Spring. This is the same length as the factory spring, and ensures that the hammer completes its motion to the firing pin. I have had 45s that have had main springs with one or more coils removed.

The problem was that the hammer did not progress fully through its arch and strike with the 19-pound force of the factory spring, because the spring was too short. Similar problems arise when a recoil spring is shortened. The spring retains its weight, but doesn’t travel the full length of the cycle. The gun is relying on the inertia of the slide to finish the final 1/4-inch of travel to seat the round.

When initially troubleshooting problems with a 45, it may not be apparent that the spring was cut, as this problem can also be caused by the spring taking a "set." In either case, the spring should be replaced with anew factory or other weight spring. Depending on the gun, use, and bullet, I have used from a 9to a 26-pound recoil spring. (Factory is 16 pounds.) Too light a spring will cause damage to the frame and slide and increase the recoil. Too heavy will cause stovepipes and other feeding problems.

I keep an assortment of springs on my bench so I can adjust the cycle to conditions. The worst case of spring mutila tion I’ve seen was a 1911 in which someone had taken a grinder to the sear spring. This gun was firing two or more rounds with each pull of the trigger. I surmised that they were trying to lighten the pull, and had ground the finger that puts pressure on the sear. One test fire and I threw the spring away and installed anew

four-leaf spring. The result was a reliable weapon with a short and sweet 3-pound trigger pull at a cost of $6 for the spring. While my comments have been about 1911-style semi-automatic pistols, the same holds true for other weapons as well. A spring is designed to provide a specific pressure at a given length to operate a specific part. Stretching a spring is only a temporary fix, as the spring will return to its design specs. This might get you some repeat business, but it’s not in the customer’s best interests.

On the other hand, shorting a spring or grinding off apart changes the dynamics, and may create an unreliable weapon that places your customer at risk and creates a major liability for you as the gunsmith. T. Allan Palmer Lebanon, Connecticut Info on Benelli MP3S I’ve come into possession of Benelli MP3S pistol. It’s marked, ".32 Wadcutter." There are no other markings as far as caliber. Is this the .32 S&W Long loaded with wadcutter, or a completely different round? Where can I get additional info on this pistol?

I have tried emailing Benelli in Italy, but have had no luck. Benelli USA has no info on it, and says it was imported by Sile Distributors, but I am unable to locate them on the web. Any info you can provide would be appreciated. N. F. Current Importation discontinued in 1995. The round is the .32 S&W Long carrying a wadcutter slug. Sile Distributors remains in business. Our records show two locations, one in Meriden, Connecticut and one in Yorktown Heights, New York.

Mother’s Little Helper Looking at "Working the Smith & Wesson K-Frames" in the November 03 issue reminded me of a gun my cousin bought from a policeman’s widow in 1944. The gun looked ratty. It was holster worn, pitted from sweat, but the double-action trigger pull was as smooth and light as if it was a single-action pull. We wondered why it was so slick. We took the sideplate off, and everything inside and even the frame and sideplate was jeweled. Looked like the inside of a fine Elgin railroad watch.

On another subject, I had copper fouling in four rifles I had. I tried soaking the bores overnight in various products—Hoppe’s Bench Rest, Sweet’s 7.62 Solvent, J. B. Bore Cleaning Compound, Butch’s Bore Shine—but nothing seemed to dissolve the fouling. I was told to put a teaspoon of Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish in my brass tumbler with the walnut polishing media. The brass came out with a mirror finish. I wondered what it would do in a bore.

I bought three Turkish rifles to play with, which had pretty good bores. But, with a $50 rifle, what did I have to loose. (I could always rebarrel.) So I put some Mother’s on a mop and ran it through the bore six or eight times, and it came out black. I ran some Hoppe’s to clean out the Mothers, and it still came out black. So I put some Simple Green on a mop, and it cleaned out the black. I dried the bore out, and looked down the barrel against a neon shop light. Damn near blinded me. What a shine!

And no copper fouling. You only have to use the Mother’s and Simple Green (full strength) to do the bore the first time. After that, you can clean the bore as usual. I worked up some loads for the rifle, took it to the range, and put 50 rounds through it. When I got home and cleaned out the bore with Butch’s Bore Shine, it took about one-third as long as usual to clean the bore.

I haven’t used the Mother’s again, and Technical Assistance Hotline To access AGA’s Technical-Assistance Hotline, call between 1 and 3 p.m. ET, Monday, Wednesday, and Friday only. For assistance at all other times, you can send an email to Chick Blood, Technical Editor, at the bore still shines like new. After that, I did all the rest of my rifles with the same good results. The instructions on the can say that Mother’s will not scratch metal, and that hand rubbing is not necessary.

Use it until it turns black and then stop. You can find Mother’s Mag & Aluminum Polish in most auto-parts store, and Simple Green on the soap aisle in any supermarket. Glen R. Reames Carson City, Nevada Crescent Single-Shot I hope you can help me find parts and info on a single-shot shotgun. The left sideplate is stamped "NO#15 Empire Ejector, The Crescent Firearms Co. 20GA." I need all the pins, a leaf spring for the lever that opens the barrel, and a forearm.

The owner would also like to know the age and value of this shotgun. The serial number is 694127. Any help would be great. Thank you. Lewis Jones Jr. If your customer’s shotgun has an external side hammer, the design dates as far back as the 1890s. Crescent-Davis, the successor to Crescent Firearms, was "absorbed" by Savage Arms in 1931. The city fathers of Norwich, Connecticut, seized the Crescent property for non-payment of taxes in 1932.

Crescent’s greatest fame derives from manufacturing guns for private labels. Over 100 retailers, distributors, and mail-order houses are on the list. Gun Parts Corp. shows nothing but coil springs as the top lever spring. Jack First indicates a leaf spring. Both list numerous pins. The value of the external side hammer is $125 in 100-percent condition and

(continued from previous page) $30 in 60 percent. We won’t speculate on the year of manufacture (a photo of the gun sent to the NRA Museum should establish the year ) and recommend you tell your client not to fire modern high-brass loads. What has us somewhat confused is the word "Empire." They were double guns, are extremely rare, and are valued from $500 to $1000. Adjusting the M710’s Trigger I’m looking to adjust the pull on a Remington Model 710.

I’ve been told by Remington that it’s possible, but have gotten no information on how to adjust the supposedly adjustable trigger. Is there any information you can give me on how to accomplish this, or any resources you can recommend? The two front screws on the housing control pull and travel. Rotating the lower screw counterclockwise reduces tension (pull). Adjust for travel by turning the upper screw clockwise until the cocked action won’t fire when the trigger is pulled.

Leave the action cocked, depress and keep the trigger depressed, and turn the upper screw counterclockwise until the sear releases. Add another one-quarter turn for clearance. The screw at the back of the housing is factory sealed with an epoxy. Mauser Followup Referring to the letter "HSC Extraction" from Jerry Lucky in the June 04 issue, the Mauser HSC ejects just like most other semi-autos.

The ejector which pivots on the left side of the frame is a stamped multifunction part which also serves as a slide hold-open and magazine disconnector. It’s listed in the Numrich catalog as a "magazine safety." Your reader should inspect it for wear or damage. I agree that magazines could also be part of the problem. I absolutely concur that high-power loads should not be used.

However, perfectly satisfactory handloads can be assembled as long as only the fastest pistol powders are used and overall length is kept to a minimum. My HSC will function perfectly as long as the C. O. L. is kept short. Hope this is helpful. Rick Weaver Chatham, Illinois Thanks, Rick, for your input. Restoring Winchester 1873 I am not a professional gunsmith, I do it as a hobby. Most of the work I’ve done has been on shotguns.

However, I have a family treasure that was handed down to me from my father, and it is in need of reworking. My great-great grandfather purchased this rifle new in April 1882 from Winchester. It is a Model 1873 38/40. I do not have any manuals on the rifle; I do have a schematic, but it is of very poor quality. I tried blowing it up, but it’s so blurry I can’t read it.

I want to put the rifle back in firing condition, but I am going to use only original parts; not because I plan to use the rifle, but because it has such great value to the family and because it needs to be done now while parts are still available.

Here is what I need to start: A good clear schematic blowup with a parts list; any publication that can guide me through the disassembly and reassembly; any parts sources that you know of including a source for original stocks. (The forend is fine, but the buttstock needs replacing) And, of course, any additional information that you deem necessary. Richard Smith Original parts and original stock? Not an easy search.

Start by calling Pennsylvania Gun Parts A schematic and disassembly/ reassembly directions appear in the NRA Guide to Firearms Assembly. Purchase the combined, hardcover edition, which includes similar material on dozens of rifles, shotguns, and handguns. Remember, your gun was built for blackpowder loads. Downloaded smokeless loads or commercially made cowboy-action blackpowder cartridges must be used to avoid damage to the rifle and anyone nearby. In no instance should .38+Por .357 Magnums be used. Not even once.