Maintaining the Remington Model 14 and 14-1/2

Sometimes I get lucky and get the chance to work on a really nice old gun. Such was the case recently with a Remington Model 14- 1/2 in .44-40. A slide-action produced in .38-40 and .44-40 calibers, it was one of several Remington models produced from 1909 to 1955 based on a J. D. Pedersen design. This design featured a solid, almost fully enclosed receiver with side ejection and no external hammer.

Introduced to the Remington-UMC line in 1912, it was discontinued around 1922 although it showed up in the Remington catalogs until around 1931. Total production was approximately 126,000, which includes the Model 14 chambered for .25, .30, .32, and .35 Remington. According to the Remington web site (www. remington.com), the Model 14-1/2 was offered only in standard grade, and the only variation offered was the Model 14-1/2 Rcarbine with an 18-1/2-inch barrel.

In .44-40 caliber, the Model 14-1/2 was popular with many police departments but, being chambered for a medium-power cartridge, didn’t achieve as much popularity as the Model 14. This particular gun was purchased by its current owner from an estate sale, and he wanted some restoration work done on it. All of the original parts were there, although the magazine tube configuration was a little different.

The barrel was the original, round 22-1/2-inch length, but the magazine tube was only 16- 1/2 inches long and there were two circular dovetail cuts for magazine rings in the underside of the barrel. A magazine ring was installed in the rear dovetail and supported the magazine tube. The front dovetail, located 4 inches back from the muzzle, was empty. I suspect there was a fulllength magazine tube installed at one time, but it may have been shortened to accommodate a barrel-mounted sling swivel.

An empty hole in the buttstock likewise indicated there had been sling swivels installed at one time. The bottom of the pistol grip had the number "32" stamped into it in 3/8-inch-high numbers. Marking a stock with their own control number was a universal method for military

and law-enforcement armorers to keep track of their guns. (It was easier to see than the serial number.) This gun had the earmarks of having spent its heyday in the care of an armorer, which probably accounted for its exceptional condition. Since I had never taken down a Model 14-1/2 before, I started looking for some documentation to keep me on the straight and narrow. I couldn’t find anything except a parts list on the internet, which stated that the Model 14 and 14-1/2 were the same.

The parts list had several parts that weren’t in the gun I was working on. I therefore solicited help from the Remington on-line support center. To their credit, their response was swift. They sent me an "owner’s manual" for the Model 14 which they also said was the same as the 14-1/2. Most of the owner’s manual information matched the 14-1/2 I was working on, but also listed several parts I could not find in the gun. I’m no longer so sure that the 14 and 14 -1/2 are the same.

Because I had some difficulty in obtaining all the correct data for the Model 14-1/2 I decided to document the one I had in my hands. Hopefully, this information will help someone else some day. Field Stripping Before starting any disassembly, depress the unlocking plunger on the breechblock, open the action, and make sure the gun is clear of ammunition. I also do a preliminary inspection for general appearance, Figure 1.

Takedown Procedure overall condition, and manual functioning when possible using dummy cartridges. Refer to accompanying photos for parts identification and orientation during disassembly and assembly. Start disassembly of the 14-1/2 by doing a basic field strip. The gun was designed to break down without any tools into three major subassemblies: barrel and receiver, trigger guard and stock, and breechblock. Cock the firing pin by opening and closing the action.

Unscrew the takedown screw (#1) and pull it out to its stop. With one hand, grasp the barrel and receiver assembly (#2) forward of receiver, and with the other hand grasp the trigger guard and the stock assembly (#3) by the pistol grip. Push straight down on the pistol grip and Figure 2. Breechblock Removal/Installation the rails on the guard will slide out of the grooves in the receiver. Place the barrel and receiver assembly upside down on the bench.

Remove the breechblock assembly (#4) by depressing the unlocking plunger on the side of the breechblock and opening the action. Tip up the rear end of the breechblock slightly, and hold the front into the clearance hole in the receiver. This will allow the breechblock to disengage from the action bar. Pull the action bar forward and lift the breechblock out. Detailed Disassembly Barrel and Receiver. Remove two forend screws (#5) and slide the forend (#6) forward.

Remove the action-bar cover screw (#7) and slide the action-bar cover (#8) forward. Tip the Figure 3. Barrel and Receiver Components

muzzle down and let the cartridge stop (#9) fall out of the receiver. Move the action bar (#10) rearward and out of the receiver while lifting off the forend and action-bar cover. Be careful when removing the magazine plug (#12); it’s under spring tension. Remove the magazine-plug screw (#11), magazine plug, magazine spring (#13), and magazine follower (#14). It’s not necessary to remove the magazine ring (#15) unless replacement is required.

To remove it, insert a plug (hardwood or brass) in the ring, and then turn the ring 90 degrees to the axis of the barrel and lift out the ring. I did not remove the parts described in the following paragraph and they are therefore not shown. The takedown screw (#1), threaded (#16) and plain (#17) bushings, and the retainer (#18) were all serviceable, and I did not wish to risk damaging them by removing them unnecessari ly. I would not recommend removing them except for replacement.

The following information was taken from the Remington manual. To remove the threaded bushing, turn the takedown screw into the threaded bushing one or two threads. Drive the bushing out of the receiver by striking the head of the screw, then remove the bushing from the screw. To remove the plain bushing, pull the takedown screw to stop. Use a drive punch with the Figure 4. Action Bar Components same outside diameter as the plain bushing.

Insert the punch through the left side of the receiver and drive the plain bushing, retainer, and takedown screw out the right side of the receiver. Don’t drive on the end of the takedown screw to remove the plain bushing as this will damage the retainer and/or screw threads. Lift the retainer out of the bushing and remove the takedown screw. Action Bar. There are some very small parts under spring tension in this assembly, so use caution.

Drive out the loading-door pin (#19) and remove the loading door (#20), loading-door spring (#21), and loading-door plunger (#22). Drive out the carrier pin (#23) and remove the carrier (#24), friction-spring plunger (#25), and friction spring (#26). Drive out the carrier-lever pin (#27) from right to left and remove the carrier lever (#28), carrier-lever plunger (#29), and carrier-lever spring (#30). Remove the magazine screw (#31) and unscrew the magazine tube (#32) from the action bar. Breechblock.

Before starting disassembly of the breechblock, uncock the firing pin (#45) by raising the back of the sear (#42). This will remove some tension from the mainspring (#44). Remove the sear-lock pin (#33), sear lock (#34), sear-lock plunger (#35), and sear-lock spring (#36). Remove the action-bar lock pin (#37), action-bar lock (#38), action-bar lock-spring case (#39), and action-bar lock spring (#40). Note that the sear is under tension from the mainspring. Drive out the sear pin (#41) and release the sear.

Remove the sear, mainspring plug (#43), mainspring (#44), and firing pin. Move the ejector (#46) so that the semicircular lug lines up with the matching cut in the breechblock body and lift the ejector out. Push the ejector rod (#47) forward and out of the breechblock. Pry the Figure 5. Breechblock Components

Figure 6. Trigger Guard and Stock Components extractor plunger (#49) rearward and the extractor (#51) up and out of the breechblock. Remove the extractor plunger and extractor spring (#50). Trigger Guard and Stock. Remove two buttplate screws (#52) and the buttplate (#53). Remove the stock bolt (#54), lock washer (#55), and flat washer (#56), and pull the stock (#57) straight back to separate it from the guard (#58).

Drive out the carrier-dog pin (#59) from right to left, and remove the carrier dog (#60) and carrier-dog spring (#61). Use a drift punch with the same outside diameter as the trigger bushing to drive out the trigger bushing (#62), and remove the trigger (#63), trigger-spring cap (#64), trigger spring (#65), trigger-spring rod (#66), and safety (#67). Sights. Loosen the front-sight lock screw (#68). Both the front sight (#69) and rear-sight assembly (#70) are removed from left to right.

The rear sight has a miniature flat spring that functions as a detent for the sight-elevation wheel. When the elevation wheel comes free from the sight base, the spring is loose. There is also a threaded stud and a threaded setscrew in the center of the elevation wheel. Clean, Inspect and Repair Clean parts of all grease, oil, dirt, and foreign matter which might obscure the true condition of the parts. Dry all the parts thoroughly but do not lubricate prior to doing a detailed inspection of each part.

Lubricate as required during assembly. Visually inspect all parts for burrs, cracks, and breaks. Check for missing parts. Inspect threaded parts for ser viceability, and check the chamber and bore. Repair as required, keeping in mind that replacement parts may be scarce. Remove burrs on functional surfaces until flush with the surface of the parent material. Do not remove any material from or change the shape of any functional surface.

Reassembly Reassembly is in essentially the reverse order of disassembly, but there are enough potential stumbling blocks that I will go through the procedure step by step. Sights. The sights are installed from right to left. Assemble the detent spring in the rear sight (#70) base. Turn the threaded stud into the elevation wheel. Install the elevation wheel in the sight base with the "A" lined up with the index mark.

Align the bottom of the stud in the elevation wheel with the slot in the barrel and install the rear sight base in the dovetail. Install the setscrew in the center of the elevation wheel stud. Install the front sight (#69) and secure with the setscrew (#68). Trigger Guard. Start the trigger bushing (#62) into the guard, leaving enough room to install the trigger. Install the safety (#67), trigger rod (#66), trigger spring (#65), and trigger-spring cap (#64) in the guard.

Align the trigger (#63) with the trigger bushing, making sure the trigger spring cap is in Figure 7. Trigger Guard Components

Figure 8. Front and Rear Sight Components the hole in back of the trigger and the trigger-spring rod (#66) has properly engaged the safety. The trigger-spring rod also serves as the detent for the safety. Install the trigger bushing to secure the trigger. Insert the 90-degree bent end of the carrier dog spring (#61) in the hole in the bottom of the guard. Orient the carrier dog (#60) with the relief cut for the spring aligned with the spring.

Depress the carrier-dog spring slightly and install the carrier-dog pin (#59) from left to right, securing the carrier dog. The carrier-dog spring must engage the detent groove in the carrier dog pin. Trigger Guard and Stock. Assemble the stock (#57) to the trigger guard (#58). Secure with the stock bolt (#54), lock washer (#55), and flat washer (#56). Install the buttplate (#53) with two screws (#52). Breechblock. Install the extractor spring (#50) and extractor plunger (#49) in the breechblock.

Rotate the plunger so that the notch on the plunger is facing inboard. This will allow it to correctly engage and retain the extractor. Compress the extractor spring and plunger with the extractor (#51) until the pivot post on the extractor can be seated in its recess in the breechblock. Seat the extractor and make sure the plunger (#49) is properly engaged. Install the unlocking plunger (#48) and the ejector rod (#47). Line up the slot in the rod with the lug on the front of the ejector (#46).

Line up the lug on top of the ejector with the matched cut in the breechblock and seat the ejector. Push the ejector forward. Install the firing pin, mainspring (#44), and mainspring plug (#43). Start the sear pin (#41) into the hole in the breechblock. Orient the sear correctly against the mainspring plug and compress the mainspring with the sear until the pin hole aligns and the pin can be installed.

Install the action-bar lock spring (#40) and action-bar lock-spring case (#39) in the hole in the bottom of the firing pin. Install the action-bar lock (#38) and secure it with the pin (#37). Install the sear-lock spring (#36) and sear-lock plunger (#35) in the hole in the bottom of the breechblock. Install the sear lock (#34) and secure it with its pin (#33). Action Bar. Install the magazine tube (#32), line up the screw holes, and secure with screw #31.

Install the carrier-lever spring (#30), carrier-lever plunger (#29), carrier lever (#28), and secure them with pin #27. Next, install the carrier-friction spring (#26) and carrier-friction plunger (#25) in the carrier. Then depress the carrier-friction plunger, install the carrier in the action bar, and secure with the carrier pin (#23). The carrier pin is headed and must be installed from left to right. If the head of the pin is not on the left, the action bar cannot go fully forward.

Install the loading-door spring (#21) and loading-door plunger (#22) in the loading door (#20). Install the loading door in the action bar and secure with the loading door pin (#19). Barrel and Receiver. Install the magazine follower (#14), magazine spring (#13), and magazine plug (#12) in the magazine tube, and secure the plug with the plug screw (#11). Install the action bar into the barrel and receiver from the rear. While moving the action bar forward, put the action-bar cover (#8) and forend (#6) in place.

Install the cartridge stop (#9) in the receiver. Secure the action-bar cover to the receiver with the cover screw (#7). Secure the forend with two screws (#5). Slide the action bar forward and place the barrel and receiver assembly (#2) upside down on your bench. In the breechblock, cock the firing pin (#45). Use a screwdriver and push straight back on the front of the firing pin until it engages the sear (#42). Place the breechblock in the receiver with the front in the clearance space in the top of the receiver.

Move the action bar to the rear. Press down on the rear of the action-bar lock and slide the action bar all the way to rear. Push down on the rear of the breechblock to engage the action bar, then move the action bar with the breechblock all the way forward. The breechblock will lock into the receiver. Pull the takedown screw (#1) to its stop. Line up the rails on the trigger guard with the mating grooves in the receiver and slide together. Tighten the takedown screw.

As a final check, I use dummy cartridges again to make sure everything is assembled correctly and functioning properly. If the gun is going back into service with live ammo, be sure to check the headspace. Conclusions The design of the Remington Model 14 and 14-1/2 made them among the strongest and most advanced slide-actions of their time. They could handle cartridges of considerably greater power than any other rifle of similar type.

This design became the basis for other rimfire and centerfire rifles designs, as well as some shotgun models. There are still a number of these guns in the field, and with the proper care and maintenance they will be around for another 90 years. ■