Fixed Power Scopes

The KISS formula ("keep it simple, stupid") is important in hunting equipment, especially guns and scopes. As I’ve grown older I’ve gone back to traditional calibers and fixed power optics. My choice for an upcoming hunt now is usually a .270 or .30-06 with a 4x or 6x on top in low-mounted rings. A good case can be made that low-powered hunting scopes are better for most shooters than what’s new and exciting.

Jack O’Connor did quite well with his .270s and 4x scopes; a 4-16x50mm with side focus looks out of place on a deer rifle. A couple of generations ago the 4x was the best-selling scope in America. Hunters went afield with a .30-06, a 4x scope, and killed stuff. Most shots at game in the U. S. are probably less than 150 yards; a 4x (or even a 2.5 or 3x) still works quite 5x that is an excellent, simple scope for a compact lever action.

Unfortunately, Weaver discontinued this model, but it can still be found on the used market. Below center: Leupold 3x "Big Bore." One of Leupold’s best offerings, designed to go with a hard-kicking big-bore rifle. It also works well on a .30-30 lever gun, like this Marlin 336. Now offered through their custom shop, the 3x Leupold has excellent glass and precise 1/4" click adjustments. Below right and base, mounted on a .308 Marlin Express.

A great combination that matches the capabilities of the .308 Marlin cartridge. 30-06 with a 6x42mm Leupold in Talley steel rings. Leupold is still offering fixed power scopes in various sizes, finishes, and powers. 25-06 that has a Leupold 3-9x40mm variable mounted in Leupold rings. A 3-9x is now the most popular scope in the US; most hunters don’t need the extra power.

A quality fixed 4x or 6x will have longer, constant eye relief, cost less and actually have better resolution and clarity due to the simpler lens system (less number of lenses to look through is brighter, with more resolution) that fixed power scopes employ. well. And you can reach out easily to 2-300 yards with a lower powered scope. Glass quality, a good zero, and your own shooting ability are far more important than magnification and the reticle. I like to cruise the Internet shooting forums; most new shoot-

Far 30-06. Still an excellent scope with clear, sharp optics. Scope is mounted in Redfield JR machined steel rings and base from the 1950s that compliments the older rifle. 270 in Talley steel rings. Paired with a German #4 reticle, a Meopta 6x is an excellent plains game scope that’ll also work well on shorter-range timber shots or range duty where precision is needed. ers seem to be looking for really long-range glass to put on their recently purchased rifle.

And they want to do it cheaply, too… with plenty of magnification, a large, adjustable objective (50mm or more), and of course, a mil-dot reticle, all for somewhere under $300. That puts optic choice into the "Made in China" category. And that’s OK; several scopes from the Pacific Rim are pretty good and getting better. I’m a proponent, though, of spending as much as I can afford on sighting equipment. I was told long ago to economize on the rifle but not on the scope. I still think that’s great advice.

Optical equipment is one of those areas where you really get what you pay for. And I have a thing about any of my gear saying "Made in China". Sometimes un- An excellent, clear scope for the money. The current Weaver scopes are made in Japan and have good glass. The only problem is the relatively short eye relief, especially on the 6x, so Weaver fixed powers shouldn’t be mounted on a heavy recoiling rifle. Below center: Remington 7600 in .30-06 wearing a Zeiss Conquest 4x32mm.

The Zeiss 4x was one of the finest fixed power scopes made, with beautiful glass, good eye relief, and precise click adjustments. Sadly, Zeiss discontinued the 4x Conquest a few years ago. It’s nowa highly sought-after scope on the used market. 30-06 in Talley lightweight mounts. A superb all-around combo that’ll work on anything in the continental United States. avoidable but not so much in guns and accessories. Europe, Japan, and the U. S. still rule in the quality optics market.

Paying more up front is actually cheaper in the long run; a good telescopic sight will outlast the original owner. And the warranties are much better. Cheap glass has a habit of breaking at the worst of times, like on along-anticipated hunting trip. Quality fixed-power scopes are better optically and more rugged than a comparable variable. While variables have come along way in quality and durability, so have fixed powers.

Fixed power optics are much simpler; fewer lenses in the scope (a variable has to have more lenses) mean less glass to look through. Fewer lenses equates to sharper resolution and brightness. Clarity and resolution can be just as good in a variable… but it will cost you. Nothing moves inside a fixed power scope once the adjustments are set. Simple is good. Simple is also cheaper. A quality fixed power scope is relatively inexpensive. A good example is the Schmidt & Bender 6x42mm.

Schmidt & Bender (Schmidt Und- Bender.de/en, makes very expensive scopes; the Germanmade "Klassik" 6x42mm is one of the finest optical sights you can buy. If you find anew one on sale for $1200, buy it. That’s a lot of coin for a scope. But a variable Schmidt & Bender will cost double or more than that. Both variable and fixed Schmidt & Bender scopes are superb optically and are considered

1 single shot rifle with a Leupold 6x36mm in Ruger steel rings. Ruger No.1s sometimes need extended rings due to eye relief issues; the Leupold fixed 6x and its longer eye relief works fine, though. The older quality scopes work well if the glass is clear and the scope wasn’t abused. "bomb proof" as far as reliability is concerned. I can justify a $1200 for a 6x scope; a $3000+ Schmidt & Bender variable, not so much.

Other features that make a fixed power scope attractive are ease of mounting, constant eye relief and holding zero. Because there’s no power selection ring, a fixed power scope gives the rifleman wider latitude on mounting his scope, especially on long-actioned bolt rifles. Coupled with a constant, unchanging eye relief that is usually longer than a comparable variable, scope mounting problems aren’t an issue. Something I’ve encountered more than once with variables is holding zero.

Usually it’s an issue confined to the cheaper scopes but An older scope like this will still serve the user about as well as a newer fixed power if the glass is clear and the seals are good. One of the finest scopes made; beautiful glass, excellent eye relief, and a longer tube that made mounting a snap on long-actioned bolt rifles. Discontinued by Zeiss several years back. If you find one, buy it. I’ve had two expensive variables, one European and one American, change zeros.

Sometimes a variable will change point of impact when the power setting is changed. It’s not that common now but it happens. Neither problem occurs with a fixed power scope. If your rings and base are attached properly, you can be confident that your fixed power scope will hold zero year to year. If your zero changes with a fixed power, it’ll probably be a rifle bedding issue or your scope mount coming loose.

Scope Mounting I’ve noticed when examining many rifles that scope mounts and correct mounting tends to be an afterthought. There’s a lot of misinformation out there, so let’s take a look at how to properly mount our fixed power scope onto a rifle. The weakest link in the scope and rifle combo is the mount; the best scope and rifle are worthless if a substandard mount is chosen, or a mounting system is not put on the action correctly.

Buy quality bases and rings from a known manufacturer; I like contacting the maker directly. You learn interesting things like proper ring height and screw torque that way. Most manufacturers are very happy to discuss their product and how to avoid mounting issues. It beats having to send stuff back because it didn’t fit or wasn’t correctly attached to your rifle.

In Europe, most scopes are mounted by a gunsmith; your average European shooter considers mounting a telescopic sight onto a rifle way beyond his capabilities. It’s actually pretty easy if you have properly ground screwdrivers that fit the screws, patience, and the ability to follow a few simple rules in attaching the base and rings. Check the base(s) and make sure there is full contact with the receiver. Receivers and scope bases need to mate perfectly with each other.

Another issue could be the base mounting screw holes aren’t centered on the receiver. Off-center receiver holes will result in a scope’s windage adjustment cranked all the way east or west to get the rifle in zero. Not good. If by chance you get a rifle with off-centered base holes (it happens), use a base that’s windage adjustable. That will keep the adjustments to

This one is brand new and hasn’t been mounted on any of the author’s rifles but should be a good performer. Excellent glass, good eye relief, and Meopta’s #4 German-style reticle are all you need for just about any big game you’ll hunt. S.-made Lyman. The Euro-style scopes have a larger ocular lens/eyebox that can make mounting the scope an issue. American scopes tend to be slimmer and less obtrusive.

A set of medium height rings will usually fix the problem on a bolt-action rifle. a minimum on your scope; use the scope adjustments for fine tuning your zero after making your initial rough windage corrections on the base. Set your base screws into the receiver with purple Loctite 222 after cleaning the screw threads completely of oil. The purple stuff seals the threads in place but is still removable without stripping if you need to take the base off.

Also Meoptas have large eyeboxes and sometimes require higher (medium or high) rings if mounted on a bolt rifle. This one has low rings and barely clears the eyebox. Talley rings tend to be higher than other manufacturers. make sure your screws aren’t too long and bottom out in the receiver. I like to lap most rings (only the bottom ring half) slightly, mostly to assure the rings have full contact with the scope.

Light lapping on inexpensive or cast rings will keep the rings from putting excessive pressure on the scope tube. Vertical split rings shouldn’t be lapped. Quality steel rings, like Warne (Warne Scope Mounts. com, or Talley (Talley Manufacturing. com, usually don’t need lapping; both manufacturers recommend against it. I try to use the lowest height rings available; the lower the scope is mounted over the bore the better.

The problem with some lowmounted scopes though, is that sometimes the bolt handle won’t clear the scope eyepiece. The usual cure here is purchasing a set of taller rings. A call to the ring manufacturer will ensure you order the proper ring height. Lastly, be careful on over-tightening your rings and base. Base screws should be torqued to about 25 pounds; ring screws somewhat less, probably 15-18 pounds. Again, the manufacturer will have the proper weight/poundage.

Obviously, you’ll need a good torque wrench; Warne makes a neat one that doesn’t costa lot. Overtightening your ring screws will over-stress the scope tube, make unsightly ring marks and possibly damage your expensive scope. Do your scope mounting right and you won’t have to worry about your scope coming loose or changing zero.

Choices When scopes were becoming popular with hunters in the 1950s, 4x magnification was recommended for an "all-around" big game scope. 6x was about right for most varmints; a 2.5 or 3x worked well on a brush gun. 10 or 12 power was considered a target scope; Lyman was the preferred glass for scoping a .22 prone target rifle or a heavy-barreled varminter. The Marine Corps liked 10x Unertls on their sniper rifles early in the Viet Nam War. What hunters thought worked "back in the day" still applies now.

A quality 4 or 6x will get the job done, same as in 1960. Only differ-

Scope is mounted as low as possible; objective bell barely clears the barrel. Lower is always better when mounting a scope. If the bolt handle clears the scope, you’re good to go. An excellent set of rings that lock directly onto the receiver without utilizing a base. Very strong and simple. On these, some light lapping before scope mounting would be a good idea to insure perfect alignment. ence is that the fixed power scope of today is more rugged, has much better lens coatings and more accurate adjustments.

Older scopes aren’t to be discounted, though. If you find a Lyman (Lyman Products. com, or Redfield (Redfield.com, scope on a rifle you’ve just acquired, give it a shot before discarding it. A scope, after all, is just a sighting device. Many older scopes were pur- Because of the simplicity, fixed power glass of high power makes sense on a target or long-range varmint rifle. Clarity and resolution are better on a good fixed power due to fewer lenses to look through.

Prices tend to be cheaper than a comparable quality variable. A very rugged and simple combination that works well from the bench. 223 with a Weaver 24x mounted in factory CZ rings. Simple, rugged, with excellent glass, ready for precision range work. chased, mounted, and only used on an occasional hunt. If your vintage scope is clear and bright and wasn’t abused, it might be all you need. I have several Lyman scopes from the 1960s and ‘70s; they perform as well as when they were manufactured 40 or more years ago.

They also look appropriate on a classic Winchester M70 or FN bolt rifle. It’s very satisfying to whack a deer or hog with an outfit that your dad (or granddad) would have used. Choices for fixed power scopes with one-inch tubes are somewhat slim now but there are still some good scopes available. My current favorite is the Meopta 6x42mm. It’s a big scope but the weight is reasonable at 15 ounces. Brightness and resolution is off the charts.

Meopta (Meopta.com/en, has a reputation for making some of the best glass in the business; they produce lenses for many other high-end European scope manufacturers. The 6×42 eye relief is excellent; adjustments are crisp, positive, and repeatable. Leupold (Leupold.com, 800-LE- UPOLD) still makes several fixed power models; my favorites are the FX II 3x, 4x and the FX III 6x42mm. I have several Leupold fixed powers. What’s nice about Leupold are their clean lines, compact size, light weight, and long eye relief.

You’ll see many a custom rifle with a Leupold on top. There’s a reason for that; they work. And if something happens, Leupold will fix it or replace it, no questions asked. Leupold has traditionally had the best warranty in the optics business. I’ve been using their 3x FX II a lot lately; it’s become my favorite Leupold.

Honorable mention goes to the new Japanese-made Weaver (WeaverOptics.com, and their K-series fixed power scopes… excellent glass, easy to mount on most rifles, and a most reasonable price, considering what you’re getting. About the only issue I have with the Weaver K4 and K6 (four and six power, respectively) is their somewhat short eye relief. The K4 is better than the K6 but it still could be longer on a high-powered rifle. I’d recommend not using one on anything that recoils more than a .308 or .30-06. On a

A great idea that simplifies the shooter’s scope mounting. These are Weaver style that most manufacturers make rings for. Warne rings are beautifully made from machined steel in all heights that will work with whatever sized scope you might have. .243 or 7mm-08 it’ll make for a fine, lightweight scope and rifle combo that’ll get the job done. I’m now in the process of downsizing my big-game arsenal and changing out my scopes based on the hunting and shooting I’ve done and will be doing in the future.

I don’t see myself shooting an elk across a canyon at a distance of 500 yards or more, so a mildot reticle or the ability to count clicks to dial in the range isn’t needed. If I’m shooting at a distance of over 250 yards (most unusual for me), I’ll hold over. Not a difficult proposition if I have a good zero and know the range. I still have a few variables and there’ll always be a use for them on a couple of my rifles.

But my transition to fixed power scopes is slowly occurring for the majority of my shooting and I’m not seeing any loss in capability or effectiveness. Simple is still good. AG