Disassembly and Troubleshooting of the Browning .22 Automatic

Reportedly the last of John M. Browning’s small-bore rifle designs, the .22 Automatic was initially sold exclusively in Europe. Remington was granted U. S. rights and their version, the Model 24, was introduced in 1924. And eventually, Browning Arms Company brought out their own .22 Automatic in 1958. Because of the multiplicity of "Types" produced over the years, I’ll note certain differences here to assist you in determining exactly which has found its way to your gunsmith workbench.

Type I was the Belgian FN version. It has its loading port on top of the buttstock, just forward of the comb. Types II, III, and IV, referred to as the Model 1, have side-of-the-stock loading and through-the-grip stock screws. The Type IV receiver is a little longer than the Type I, II, and III. So are the receivers of the Types Vand VI, or Model 2. The Type Vcame to be when the outer magazine tube had its diameter beefed up to lessen breakage problems where the tube joined the receiver.

At that time, the through-the-grip stock screws were eliminated and the stock was secured to the action at the rear with a nut (#46) that screws on the outer magazine tube. Type VI carries a modified trigger guard with heftier rails, which necessitated further changes to the receiver and breechblock to accommodate it. Production began on the Type V and VI in 1965. Parts for previous versions are no longer manufactured and thus require a search of the aftermarket.

Due to other slight modifications since 1965, all factory available parts must be ordered according to the serial number of the rifle. Basic Disassembly Remove the inner magazine tube (#30) by rotating it one-quarter turn in either direction. Pull it to the rear until it catches against the magazine-tube stop (#32). Give the inner tube an additional one-quarter turn and withdraw it from the stock. Hold the rifle inverted and move the barrel lock (#7) forward.

Draw the breechblock (#9) about 1/2 inch to the rear with your thumb. Grasp the receiver with one hand and the forend (#26) with the other. Position the rifle muzzle upward. Don’t grip the receiver by the stock and risk breaking the wood. Move the forend up, give the barrel (#8) a quarter turn clockwise, and separate those elements from the receiver.

To remove the trigger guard (#24) and breechblock as a unit, push them forward about 1-1/4 inches, lower the rear of the guard, and keep both component assemblies together as you slide them out the front of the receiver. Getting the butt stock off depends on the rifle model. If it’s a Model 1, the 22 Automatic is technically a takedown rifle. As you can see from this field-stripped rifle, the barrel and receiver are readily separated into an overall length of 19-1/2 inches for easy and compact transport.

The installation isn’t as simple as it looks. stock screw is located in the bottom of the hand grip. If you’re working with a Model 2, you’ll need a special tool you can fabricate from round stock or, perhaps, abroad blade screwdriver. If round stock is your choice, drill a 1/4inch through hole in its upper end to accommodate the rod you’ll use as a "T-handle." This tool is used to crank off the stock nut, access the washer (#45), and pull off the stock.

Detailed Receiver Disassembly Position a small-blade screwdriver at the rear of the cartridge-guide spring (#13). Pop the spring out of its slot and lift it from the receiver. The cartridge guide (#14) is pushed forward to disengage its side rails from their receiver slots. The cartridge stop (#15) is lifted out with a pair of needle-nose pliers. This will leave nothing permanently attached to the receiver except the outer magazine tube. It should remain as is, unless there’s a need for a replacement.

Detailed Trigger Guard/ Breechblock Disassembly These two components are still joined, or should be. With the safety "off," pull the trigger to allow the firing pin to move forward. Holding the guard assembly in one hand, place the heel of your other over the breechblock and push the block to the rear. Lift up the front end of the block to just clear the guard. Slowly relieve the spring tension by letting the block move forward.

Disengage the recoil-spring guide (#35) from the guard, taking care you don’t allow the recoil spring (#36) or guide to sting you, and slide them out of the block. Lightly grasp the firing-pin spring guide (#22) with needle-nose pliers and compress the spring (#23). Control the pressure as you lift the block at its rear to pull out the two parts. (Watch it. This spring and guide can sting, too.) After this, the breechblock can be taken off the trigger guard.

Take your 1/16-inch punch, drift out the sear-spring pin (#42), and lift the spring (#43) free. Follow this step with removal of the sear pin (#41) and sear (#44). A 3/32-inch punch is used on the trigger pin (#48). Push upward on the trigger (#50). It’s lifted from the guard while still attached to the disconnector (#17) and spring (#49). Unless these latter parts are damaged, there’s no need to further disassemble the guard. Detailed Breechblock Disassembly Pull the firing pin from the block.

The 3/32-inch punch is used to drift out the extractor-retaining pin (#18) to free up the extractor (#21), its spring retainer (#19), and spring (#20). All these pieces are small and easily lost. Detailed Barrel Lock Disassembly On Types I through IV, remove the lock (#7), its spring (#6), and its plunger (#5) by pushing the lock toward the muzzle. The barrel-lock ring (#4) slides off to the rear. If it’s too tight to slide easily, tap it rearward with a rawhide mallet.

The barrel-adjusting ring (#3) is unscrewed from the barrel. With Types Vand VI, the disassembly steps are the same except these types have two barrel-adjustment ring followers (#1) and two springs (#2). None of these are retained by anything after the barrel-locking mechanism is removed. Can they get lost easily? You bet. Detailed Safety Disassembly With the trigger, disconnector, and spring set aside, secure the guard horizontally between protective vise jaws.

A 1/16-inch punch is used to depress the safety-spring plunger (#38). Push the safety button (#37) toward the "on" position far enough to capture the plunger and maintain pressure on the spring (#39) before backing off with the punch. Keep the pressure on with a small-blade screwdriver inserted in the left side of the guard, and push the button all the way out with the punch. Obviously, the spring could encourage the plunger to accompany it skyward until the button has cleared the guard’and perhaps even afterward.

Assuming the spring and plunger haven’t already flown away, you can remove them with tweezers. Please accept a few words of advice regarding detailed disassembly: Invent some means of identifying the many small springs present in the Browning .22 Automatic and its close relatives. This will make your life far less stressful when it comes time for reassembly’which is now. Reassembly Details The trigger guard is re-secured horizontally in the vise.

Use tweezers or needle-nose pliers to position the safety spring and plunger in the guard. A right-handed safety button is introduced from the right side of the guard and will only function with a right-

Browning .22 Automatic Semi-Automatic Rimfire Rifle (Specifications subject to change without notice) 1 Barrel Adjusting Ring Follower Spring 2 Barrel Adjusting Ring Follower 3 Barrel Adjusting Ring 4 Barrel Lock Ring 5 Barrel Lock Spring Plunger 6 Barrel Lock Spring 7 Barrel Lock 8 Barrel 9 Breechblock 10 Buttplate Screws 11 Buttplate 12 Buttstock 13 Cartridge Guide Spring 14 Cartridge Guide 15 Cartridge Stop 16 Disconnector Pin handed trigger (having an extended arm on the left-hand side).

Conversely, a left-handed safety is introduced from the left side of the guard and works only with a left-handed trigger (which has the arm on its right-hand side). Keep this in mind if a customer ever wants his safety switched from right to left or vice versa.

A 1/16-inch punch depresses the 23 Firing Pin Spring 24 Firing Pin 25 Forend Escutcheon 26 Forend 27 Forend Retainer Stud 28 Forend Screw 29 Front Sight 30 Inner Mag Tube Assembly 31 Outer Magazine Tube 17 Disconnector 18 Extractor Spring Retainer Pin 19 Extractor Spring Retainer 20 Extractor Spring 21 Extractor 22 Firing Pin Spring Guide plunger and spring until they’re both retained by the button.

While keeping the button in its hold-down position with a small-blade screwdriver, push it through to its "off" position. Insert the trigger assembly downward into the guard. After placing the trigger spring (#49) over the rear of the disconnector, compress the spring a little so it can be positioned under its 32 Magazine Tube Stop 33 Rear Sight Assembly 34 Receiver 35 Recoil Spring Guide 36 Recoil Spring 37 Safety Button 38 Safety Spring Plunger 39 Safety Spring 40 Scope Mnt.

Base Filler Screws 41 Sear Pin 42 Sear Spring Pin 43 Sear Spring 44 Sear 45 Stock Nut Washer 46 Stock Nut 47 Trigger Guard 48 Trigger Pin 49 Trigger Spring 50 Trigger housing at the rear of the guard. This should allow the disconnector to settle itself slightly forward of the rearmost surface of that housing. After confirming that the front end of the trigger isn’t above the front end of the trigger slot, align the trigger pin holes, install the pin, and check for free trigger movement.

Stake the pin on both sides of the guard housing to

prevent it from loosening. Reinstall the sear and sear pin. The pin should be staked as was the trigger pin. And for the same reason. Begin reassembly of the breechblock with the extractor, extractor spring, and retainer in that order. Align all holes and use the 3/32-inch punch to reinstall the extractor retaining pin’flush. Align the guide on the left side of the firing pin with its breechblock slot and insert the pin. Place the block on its trigger guard rails. Install the firing-pin spring guide and spring.

The rear end of the guide has to be located in the hole at the rear of the guard just above the sear. Insert the recoil spring and guide into their tunnel at the right rear of the block. Compress the spring on the guide while feeding both parts into the block. Locate the back end of the guide on its holding lug at the rear of the guard. You may need the assistance of a small punch to accomplish this. Note: When working with any of these block springs and guides you must use a gentle hand to avoid damage.

What you’ve reassembled so far should undergo a trigger and safety inspection. Right now’not later on’ so here’s how the deed is done: 1. Press down on the breechblock and force it to the rear of the guard to cock the firing pin. Keeping the block under control, allow it to return to its Aforward position, and place the safety "off." Slowly pull the trigger to partially’only partially’d isengage the sear from the firing pin. Release the trigger. Do the sear/firing-pin surfaces regain full engagement? No?

Replace those parts and the sear spring. 2. Leaving the safety "off," fully recock the firing pin. Check the pull with a digital trigger-pull gauge (Brownells). Factory specifications are 4 to 5-1/2 pounds.

Assuming the firing pin disengaged during the pull test, recock it, and move the safety button repeatedly between the "on" and "off" positions to determine a positive detent. (What you want to hear is an audible click.) Now place the tip of the hooked rod of the triggerpull gauge on the center of the safety button to see how much force is required to move it from one position to the other. It should read out between 3 and 4 pounds. Any lighter than that calls for replacement of the safetymechanism parts. 3.

Again cock the firing pin. Push the safety button to "off" and lightly pull the trigger. Just before the firing pin is released, there should be .012- to .014inch clearance between the back of the disconnector and the sear. If not, stone a small amount of material from the back end of the disconnector.

Since you’ll probably do as I did and allow B When reinstalling the spring and guide in the block, remember to protect your finger tips with adhesive tape. the firing pin to let go the first couple of times in checking for this clearance, recock the pin and recheck. Place the safety "on" and pull the trigger. There ought to be .008- to .010-inch of travel at the rear of the disconnector toward its contact surface with the sear.

If not, take out the trigger and stone a small amount of material from the trigger surface that contacts the safety. Note: The clearance between the safety and trigger has to be less than the .012- to .014-inch clearance between the disconnector and the sear, but remember that the .22 Automatic is just like any other self-loading firearm’it gets dirty quick.

Because of its ammo (high-priced rimfire is rarely used in anything but high-priced rimfire match guns), this little selfloader probably accumulates dirt more rapidly. When the dirt builds up between the trigger and safety button or between the front of the trigger and the guard, it can render the safety unreliable if not useless. Always look for and rid these areas of any fouling. All right? The inspection is done. Now there’s the receiver and more awaiting reassembly.

Place the cartridge guide into the front of the receiver with the guide’s open end toward the rear of the rifle. Seat the guide fully rearward. Fish the smallblade screwdriver out of whatever pocket you put it in; you’ll need it when you engage the front end of the cartridge-guide spring and maneuver its rear end into its recess at the top of the receiver. Needle-nose pliers are used to reinstall the cartridge stop.

Hold the receiver muzzle end up in one hand, the trigger guard assembly with the other, and push back the breechblock with an index finger. Slide the guard into the receiver and release the block. Place the buttstock on the receiver and secure it with its attachment components. Make sure these parts, whether screw or nut, are tightened firmly. This will keep the stock from turning and possibly breaking off at the trigger-guard point. If the sights have been removed, secure the barrel horizontally, sight

dovetails upward, in your vise and reinstall the sights right to left. After the sights are in (or if they haven’t been removed in the first place), the barrel is secured with the forend-retaining stud upward. The beveled end of the barrel-adjusting ring must be toward the muzzle when you screw the ring onto the barrel as far as it will go. The barrel-lock ring protrusions should also point toward the muzzle, and you may need that rawhide mallet to drive it flush up against the adjusting ring.

Remove the barrel from the vise, and hold the receiver inverted on your lap in one hand with the barrel in the other. Pull back the breechblock with a thumb, and fully insert the barrel into the receiver. Align the barrel and receiver threads to mesh.

Holding the breechblock to the rear, turn the barrel 90 degrees clockwise, thereby orienting the receiver to its final position. (In that position, less than one thread width should exist between the barrel breech and the end of the cartridge guide.) You don’t have to worry if the barrel ends up a bit too far into the receiver. You do if it ends up too far out. This produces a gap between the forend and receiver after final assembly, which causes a problem I’ll discuss in a minute.

At any rate, after the barrel and receiver are aligned, release the breechblock and let the extractor enter into its barrel cut. Turn the receiver counterclockwise to the barrel until the movement is halted by the extractor seating in the cut. Tighten the barrel-adjusting ring firmly against the barrel-lock ring, place the barrel back in the padded vise, and turn the receiver clockwise to align its slots with those in the barrel-lock ring. The barrel could be too loose at this point.

If it is, adjust the barrellock ring counterclockwise. If the barrel is too tight’m eaning crowbar rigid’t he adjustment is made clockwise. Any necessary adjustment should only amount to one or two notches in the lock ring. Once the barrel and receiver are aligned and joined together, install the barrel lock, barrel-lock springs, and plunger. Locate the rear of the forearm to the lock, press the wood into place, and tighten its retaining screw.

Cycle the action to test trigger/safety functions, install the inner magazine tube, and you’re done. Troubleshooting: Cause and Cures Poor Accuracy. Unless the muzzle crown has been damaged, the barrel is probably loose because the adjustment ring has been improperly adjusted or there are locking parts missing. Ruptured Cases. The barrel is assembled too far out of the receiver. The tip-off is a noticeable gap between the forend and the receiver. Poor Extraction.

There’s foreign matter jamming the extractor, the extractor is broken, or its spring is damaged or weakened. If an excessive number of .22 Shorts have been touched off in the .22 LR chamber, the latter may have suffered cavitation or fire cutting. This would result in the Long Rifle cases expanding. Chamber polishing can sometimes clear up this damage if it’s not too severe. Serious chamber enlargement usually calls for anew barrel, but this particular .22 will never have to worry about .22 Shorts.

They won’t feed in a rifle designed exclusively for .22 Long Rifle. Failures to Feed. What could be wrong? Let me count the ways. If the cartridge spring is too short, the nose of the round will droop down on its own and jam the action. If the spring is too long, it will catch and hold the round, preventing the breechblock from moving forward. It’s best to replace the spring instead of cutting or attempting to "stretch" it. The list goes on….

A loose cartridge guide should be tightened by lightly staking the receiver on both sides of the guide. Burrs inside the outer magazine tube should be smoothed out. So should any burrs in the cartridge hole (located forward of the outer magazine tube) in the receiver, as well as any burrs on the top post of the trigger guard. Then polish your deburring work. If the gun owner took the rifle apart once upon a time, the cartridge stop could be missing or improperly installed.

Lack of a stop causes double feeding which causes jamming. And let us not overlook the possibility the rifle may have been dropped unceremoniously on an unyielding surface. This might break the outer mag tube, bend the inner mag tube and/or spring the rails of the trigger guard. This "rail-springing" creates a loose-fitting breechblock that fails to chamber around, but the condition can be corrected.

Anyone with experience working the slide rails/frame rails fit on a M1911 would have little trouble accomplishing the fix. Start with the trigger guard after removing it from the rifle. As a tool, I used an old 1-1/2-inch wood chisel with the cut-

ting edge rounded off. By inserting this handy-dandy "rail expander" between the rails on both sides of the guard, I was able to gently spread them apart. This formed a slight arc over which the breechblock would travel. After checking with a straightedge to see if the arc I was out to form did indeed exist, I inverted the receiver and lightly tapped its guard rails inward with a rawhide mallet. My overall objective was to raise the path of the breechblock higher within the receiver.

Any difficulty encountered reinstalling the modified guard in the receiver was overcome by slightly relieving the outer edges of the guard rails. Any binding of breechblock travel after reassembly was eliminated by the application of an indicator fluid to the top of the block, cycling it a few times, and stoning down any points of interference with the receiver. Avoid making large adjustments to the rails. You know, tap-taptap…spread-spread-spread…over and over again.

Work hardening of the material could result in breakage. There are other reasons a breechblock can bind. On rare occasions, there may too much pressure on the rear of the trigger guard where the guard fits the stock. Correct this by removing a bit of wood from beneath the guard tang. The disconnector could be the culprit by protruding too high. Check the bevel at the rear of the Binder Ad (p/u from page 18, AGM-August 05) block for signs of contact, then either refit or replace the disconnector.

Take a look at the alignment of the recoilspring guide with its hole in the block. If the guide is out of line, remove a small amount of material from the top or bottom of the guide’s holding lug on the trigger-guard stud. Binding of the block on the housing at the rear of the guard is usually caused when the sear pin works loose. Restake the pin. Misfires. The first thing to suspect is dirt that’s accumulated in the firingpin tunnel of the block.

After that’s been eliminated and the tunnel polished, consider the presence of a weak firing-pin spring, broken firing pin, binding firing pin, an improperly adjusted barrel-adjusting ring, and a disconnector failing to make contact with the sear when the trigger is pulled. In addition, the use of lousy ammunition should not be ignored. Ejection Problems. When fired cartridges get pre-ejected, it’s a sure sign the cartridge spring is too long. Replace it. But don’t blame all ejection problems on the spring.

Are the cartridge-guide rails (guiding surfaces) too rough or too far apart? You can smooth them up. When too far apart, it’s better to replace the guide. Extraction Problems. Coming before poor ejection is poor extraction. I’ve already covered one possibility with my commentary on fire cutting. Most other problems with the extractor go away when the darn thing gets cleaned or replaced along with its spring.

Smackdown with a Recoil Spring As soon as you take this recoil spring out of the breechblock, you’ll realize you’ll have to wrestle it back in without crimping or otherwise damaging it. The spring and plunger measure 6- 1/4 inches. The block measures less than 2-1/2 inches. I promise you, it won’t be fun. The best way I found to get the job done goes like this: Place the block on the trigger guard, with the firing-pin assembly installed with the pin’s spring guide seated in the guard stud.

Lay the guard flat on the bench with its tang to your right. Under the guard, place a small piece of carpet to keep it from sliding around. After spearing the spring on its guide, put one finger over the split end of the guide, and began feeding the spring into the block while simultaneously compressing the spring with the guide.

By continuing to do this, you’ll eventually be able to maneuver the lead end of the guide into the block and push it plus the spring in further until you can slide the slotted end over its tab on the guard stud. My fingertips were very sore by the time I was finished. I reminded myself too late that some adhesive tape wrapped around them might have saved me the discomfort. And in Conclusion… Here’s another cause of jamming I’ll bet you wouldn’t expect’t oo light a trigger pull.

When that’s the case with this rifle, here’s what happens: The engagement surfaces between the sear and firing pin have been worn or butchered so badly they’ll let go at the slightest jar. The firing pin, having no reason or desire to remain static, will poke its nose out the front of the breechblock, and get in the way of the next round being chambered. Don’t dive in there trying to increase pull weight. Instead, replace the firing pin, the sear, or both. In the interest of safety, I’d replace both. I

06 Vendor Roster (One-page ad coming directly from Belvoir)