Build an ‘Orthopedic’ Handgun

There are those of us who are physically challenged and cannot use their handgun of choice. Some of these folks manage by simply going to a lighter caliber, while others must consider a different type of gun altogether. Instruction and care in manipulation helps, but some guns are simply too difficult for those of limited ability to use well. I myself have been through several injuries during along and active police career. On one occasion, my left arm was injured and in a sling for some time.

During that time, I had to put away my .45 auto, and carried a .38 revolver instead. One of my last injuries was long-lasting, however, and it gave me a chance to take a hard look at handgun modifications for physically challenged shooters. For many shooters who are approaching my age, the sights of the handgun appear fuzzier than they once did. Since the metal has not crumbled, it’s a safe bet that my eyes are somewhat less keen than they once were.

Thus, it seems that tired and aging muscles and eyes are another consideration in addition to physical injuries. In fact, I’ve found that many perfectly healthy, strong individuals can appreciate these modifications. As one shooter told me, a physical problem or two should not prevent anyone from enjoying the shooting sports or defending his person and property. Among my favorite handguns is the Ruger .22/45 pistol.

This is a fine practice pistol, and one chosen by many shooters who cannot tolerate the recoil of a larger-caliber handgun. I’ve also seen many of these pistols in competition. The most common problems I’ve noted with the gun are difficulty in cocking the bolt, and in seeing the gun’s black sights. Among the few malfunctions I’ve seen are failures to extractor fire. While certainly not a design flaw, the pistol can be modified to practically eliminate these problems.

Among the better options for improving the Ruger is a titanium firing pin from Power Custom (29379 Highway J, Gravois Mills, MO 65037). Installation of the firing pin is a little tricky, but not tedious. Start by loop ing a string around the mainspring latch and raising the latch. The latch is raised up out of the frame like opening a folding pocketknife. Be certain the trigger and hammer are at rest, in the uncocked position.

Pull the mainspring housing down until the mainspring housing pin is clear of the receiver. The housing can now be removed. Simply pulling the bolt handles and bringing the bolt to the rear can remove the bolt, but often the hammer has moved to the cocked position and will not allow the bolt to come out. Point the barrel toward the ceiling to reposition the hammer strut. The upper receiver can be brought away by pressing the bolt-stop thumbpiece upwards, and holding it in position.

I tap the rear of the receiver with—of all things—a Quinetics bullet puller, which works for me. When the pistol is disassembled, you will note that the only thing holding the firing pin is the firing-pin stop pin. Before you take the firing pin away from the bolt, carefully study or diagram its position so you will be able to properly install the 22/45, and does not create a problem in firing the gun.

22. Normally, the finish is not marred at attachment points. Power Custom unit. The firing-pin stop is easily removed with a small punch. I used the punch contained in my CED 1911 Toolkit. The firing-pin rebound support will come out at this point, and care must be taken not to lose this part. The Power Custom firing pin is of titanium stock, but is dimensionally identical to the old pin. It is much sharper, however, and deals a quicker blow.

Place the Power Custom unit in the bolt slop properly, and then drift the firing pin stop back in place slowly and carefully. Before replacing the bolt, test the firing pin to be certain it can travel in the bolt slot without restriction. I’ve never experienced any binding, but Power Custom includes this step in their instruction sheet and it could avoid trouble. When the bolt is reassembled, the rebound spring will be putting pressure against the lower hook on the firing pin, pressing the firing pin to the rear.

The rebound-spring support is in a small recess, in case you forget. That’s all that’s required to install the firing pin. This firing pin is added to ensure reliability in a gun that may be used for self-defense. To allow the slide to be racked quickly and with a minimum of effort, I suggest you add the Power Custom slide racker to the pistol. This device aids in manipulation and getting the handgun ready for service. The Ruger does have a stout spring for a rimfire handgun.

The bolt racker resembles a hook and is easily set over the cocking ears of the pistol. It can be turned for leftor right-hand operation. I’ve never experienced any problems in installing these items, but Power Custom tells me that some early-model Rugers may require fitting. The racker fits over the cocking ears, and set screws are tightened to hold it in place. I have aggressively racked and slammed the bolt of this pistol a hundred times or more, with no problems in slippage.

While not well suited to concealed carry, with the right holster it is not impossible to carry this modified handgun. Finally, I addressed the sights of the pistol. The Ruger’s sights, especially the adjustable models, are sharp and clear to most eyes, but not to everyone. I have one eye that is not as strong as the other, and for me the front sight was indeed fuzzy. I installed a special rear aperture from One Ragged Hole Tallahassee, FL 32317).

This sight is of the type normally fitted to rifles, but works well in handguns. Indeed, one of the top tactical experts in the country, Denny Hansen, has used aperture sights extensively on his Glock handguns—a powerful endorsement. The eye is drawn to the circle of this sight, and the ring (often called a "ghost ring") seems to vanish when the front sight is well centered. Fitting this sight is simple but requires care. The windage-adjustment screw of the Ruger is screwed almost all of the way out.

The leaf will then be loose in the sight channel. There is a small notch in the Ruger sight, and a corresponding tab in the sight leaf. The tab is lined up with the notch taken out, being careful not to lose the tension spring contained in the sight. A small pin or paper clip can be used to depress the spring as the Smoking Hole sight leaf is placed in the sight channel. Then, the windage screw is replaced and tightened.

The pistol then requires some sighting in, of course, which can usually be accomplished in less than 20 rounds. From the benchrest, I was able to secure several 1.5-inch groups at 25 yards with this sight and Winchester Wildcat ammunition. The sight is quick to acquire at moderate ranges on man-size targets, and I am able to see the front clearly with this intense focus. I have fired several hundred rounds in the Ruger with good results.

I feel these modifications are among the most sensible and the most helpful I have performed—even for a shooter with no handicaps. A quick look at Brownells catalog shows many more options, of course, for many more handguns. There are a number of slide rackers offered for 1911 pistols, and various front sights with combinations of fiber optics that allow far better sight acquisition. The sky is the limit, and when you are helping someone who may not be able to handle a standard handgun, the rewards are many. ■