Adjusting Fixed Revolver Sights

Many modern revolvers include sights that are at least drift adjustable for windage but a number of older models have no provision for moving the sights. When it comes time to shoot them, it can seem hopeless to get the gun to hit at point of aim but all is not lost. There are a few things to try that can help. Bullet Before modifying anything, keep in mind that a differing bullet weight and velocity in different loads can change the point of impact.

As a rule of thumb, heavier bullet will tend to shoot higher and a lighter bullet will tend to hit lower. A variety of bullet weights can and should be tried to see which shoots best. Keep in mind that once you have the revolver sighted in for one bullet weight, velocity, and powder charge, the point of impact will probably change if these are changed. For a revolver already not hitting where you’d like, that can be a good thing. Warranty Yes, I typed that word.

While some buy for the warranty, others find it to be a hassle. If the revolver is brand new and right out of the box, try contacting the manufacturer to see about sending it in under warranty. They will have the proper equipment and spare parts to alter guns they manufacture. Kentucky Windage Knowing the point of impact for a given load at varying distances allows the shooter to change their aim based on Many also do not have a hammer blocking safety either.

Unless your revolver uses the transfer bar system or hammer block safety (shown), you run the risk of accidental discharge if you carry with a fully loaded cylinder. that information. For instance, knowing the revolver hits, say, to the left and high a given number of inches (or feet…) at a given distance allows for a known adjustment to point of aim to hit a target. This is an imprecise method and can result in missing the target more than hitting it but is the easiest "fix" for this issue.

Needed Items If you choose to try to make the necessary adjustments to an otherwise non-adjustable set of sights, you will need a few things. I use target paper that is at least 11"x17" or larger with half-inch or one-inch gridlines to see precisely where the bullet is hitting in relation to the point of aim. Apiece of poster board with gridlines could be useful if target paper isn’t large enough. A refrigerator box could be used if the revolver is really out of alignment.

As an absolute last resort, you could offer to pay for damages and use the broadside of a barn. Failure to hit that could justify replacing the revolver along with an optometrist appointment. At least for initial tests, a steady rest should be used. These can usually be purchased at your local gun shop or sporting goods dealer. A rest can be built from wood and/or metal you may have in your shop. A small file with a safe edge is needed. Powered hand tools can remove too much metal too quickly.

A high-speed air-powered die grinder should probably not be used. Other needed tools will be mentioned in the sections where applicable.

Out Of Alignment If the barrel and cylinder don’t line up squarely, the bullet could hit one side of the barrel first as it enters, possibly effecting accuracy. Brownells sells Revolver Range Rods that can be used to test alignment of the barrel and cylinder. A barrel out of alignment may need other work done. Rear Sight The rear sight should be moved in the direction the bullets need to go. On some models, the rears ig ht could be filed to one side using a small file.

Small amounts should be removed at a time, with frequent checking of point of impact. This becomes impractical on models where the sight is a groove in the top strap. Front Sight To raise the point of impact, the front sight can be filed down. To lower the point of impact, the front sight can be built up using a welder or some other means. This should be done in small increments with frequent testing. If you don’t mind the revolver looking strange, the front sight can be bent to one side.

I would not advise that on an antique revolver. Care should be taken that the sight doesn’t snap off while bending. Another modification would be to shave metal off one side of the front sight, though this will make it more fragile. Barrel The barrel can be screwed in or backed out to change the point of impact to the left or right. Older books say to use a hammer handle or hardwood handle as a wrench to separate the barrel from the frame.

I suggest using the proper vise insert for your revolver and the proper barrel wrench to reduce the risk of damage. As you turn the barrel, you may notice that you run out of room for adjustment. This may result in the barrel needing to be turned in a lathe or stoning the frame. I suggest modifying the cheaper and easier to replace part first. If the barrel is turned in a lathe, the forcing cone may need to be recut.

If the barrel is press-fit and pinned, the barrel notch can be filed in the direction the front sight needs to move and the opposite side filled in with epoxy. Pin alignment will also need to be checked. This adjustment may be quite noticeable. A heavy hand and a die grinder will result in an expensive piece of scrap metal. Proceed gently using great caution and frequent testing. Pressure The last method and possibly the most dangerous is to straighten the barrel with a hydraulic press.

Removing and looking through the barrel may reveal a bend. Placing the barrel in a press so that pressure is applied to the opposite side may make the barrel straighter. It can also bend the barrel in the other direction or otherwise damage it. I would not try this on an original barrel, antique, or other valuable revolver, unless it had to be pressed into service for some reason. If it absolutely has to be pressed into service, the most value the revolver can have is being reliable and accurate.

So, if your revolver doesn’t hit the bullseye, all is not lost. With some time and patience, you should make it into the 10 ring. AG