1911 Extractors Up Close

An often misunderstood but essential part of the 1911 pistol is the cartridge extractor. This humble tool steel part can give the gunsmith quite a run around if he is not completely familiar with its purpose and operation. As an example, recently a customer brought a 1911 into the shop that he had subjected extractor testing. Although the pistol passed the test program he was not happy.

The customer felt the extractor was too tight because he shook the piece violently and the cartridge case did not slip from under the extractor. He also noted the bottom of the cartridge case didn’t seem to be flush with the extractor. To make things worse, this was a factory-fitted external extractor that the factory claims cannot be adjusted. Just the same, I removed the extractor with the proper punches and very carefully cut a slight angle on the bottom of the extractor hook.

A jeweler’s file is used for this operation. Next, this small cut was carefully polished out, resulting in greater smoothness in operation and slicker function. The cartridge case rim, the shooter observed, now fit more completely into the extractor as the shooter liked. But the pistol had no malfunctions before! This was simply insurance and respect for a very demanding shooter. I have done quite a bit of research on the external extractor and there isn’t a lot of detailed information, but there seem to be trends.

For most types, extractor tension of eight to ten pounds is standard. Standard deflection is 0.010. The gear needed to test the external extractor is specific, expensive, and usually available only from the factory. If you are lucky enough to own a factory gauge or have rigged up your own, remember, tension is usually checked during the first 0.010 of extractor movement. I have carefully examined a number of extractors of the pertinent types, including internal and external, and for the 9mm and .38 Super.

It is interesting that newer types from the better makers including Ed Brown and Wilson Combat have well defined, sharp extractor hooks. When you figure that the depth of the average extractor hook is 0.465 and the .45 ACP case extractor groove is only 0.040 deep, we confirm that the extractor hook doesn’t ride on the groove but is designed to hook the rim.

As for reliability among the two types, after some study it seems the amount of foreign material the external extractor may tolerate in the hook in a worst case scenario may be more than the older, internal types. Dirt in either extractor hook with either design means less tension. So, the first thing I look to in a search for a malfunction is how clean the 1911 pistol was when the problem occurred. I also like to know what type of ammunition was used. The part we are concerned with must be of spring steel.

Cast parts should be discarded in a quality handgun. MIM remains questionable and as long as I am able to secure tool steel extractors I will do so. The internal 1911 extractor forces makers to adhere to original specifications and fitting, which isn’t a bad thing. The several variations on the external extractor are interesting. Let’s look at a neat fix for one particular external extractor that will occasionally give trouble.

Kimber External Extractor Fix Kimber made a run of external extractor pistols that sometimes ran well and sometimes not. I do not have an opinion on the engineering. After all, Kimber is one of our most respected makers but there was a problem. I have developed a fix for these pistols that has worked in a limited number of handguns. In one problem Kimber, the extractor hook evidently was not taking a large enough bite out of the cartridge case rim, despite trying a half dozen different factory loadings.

Some fed and functioned well, others were problematical, but none were perfectly reliable in this handgun. Without going into detail, it is obvious the 1911 is designed to run with brass cartridge cases, not aluminum or steel. Just the same, most run with all three types of cartridge case material. Despite the advantages of brass, sometimes brass case cartridge rims are not consistent. In any case, the Kimber sometimes malfunctioned.

As a cure for this problem, the Kimber extractor was cut in the area behind the hook. This relieved the area and moved the extractor hook toward the other side of the slide. After the cut and polish the hook was closer to the cartridge case rim, however, the red loaded chamber indicator was no longer visible when the cartridge case was in the chamber and the extractor properly aligned, but this trade off was deemed acceptable. I also added a Wolff Gunsprings extra power extractor spring.

The Kimber ran like it was supposed to after this. The part number from WC Wolff is 33261 for $3.49. This is apart I would add to any Kimber with the external extractor.

(courtesy SIGARMS.) Standard 1911 Extractor Testing Most of the time we will be concerned with the original spring steel internal extractor. My advice is to replace and fit the extractor but there are times when we may be able to repair an extractor with minimal hand work. It is easy to check the extractor hook and determine that it is not sharp enough. Measuring extractor tension is another matter. The extractor hook must be good and sharp and may be recut if it is not. Tension is another matter.

To check tension, take the slide off of the frame. The cartridge—not a cartridge case but a complete round of ammunition with bullet—is positioned under the extractor hook. The hook should be gripping the case at the center line of the cartridge case and the cartridge primer is positioned over the firing pin channel. When checking function remember that when the slide is racked the cartridge case will drop down a bit and the firing pin is no longer centered on the primer.

Also, if spent cases are sooty then perhaps all of the powder is not burning and there is excess pressure. Be alert to these warnings. Back to the standard check. With the slide stripped and cartridge case under the extractor hook you should be able to move and shake the slide in every direction without losing the The extractor cannot be of inferior quality. It must be of tool steel. The Series 80 and the Series 70 are different types. cartridge case.

If the cartridge case falls out of the extractor hook, there is a problem with tension. While there are excellent tools available for testing and setting extractor tension, it is possible to set the tension with just the extractor and the slide as a tool. To correct extractor spring tension, remove the extractor and place one half inch of the tip of the extractor—the end with the hook—in the extractor channel in the slide. Apply just enough pres-

Be certain the magazine is feeding properly before looking at the extractor when feed issues arise. It worked just fine but this isn’t a nice flush fit. sure to bend the extractor. Replace and check. With the extractor properly tensioned, the next step is to position or clock the extractor. We now test the other dimension of tension. In this procedure we use an empty cartridge case rim. A cartridge case is slipped into the extractor hook at the center line. Pull the case downwards about 0.075 inch.

The extractor should not let go of the cartridge case even though it is lower than normal. Shake the slide to test tension. If tension is a problem here you need to bring the extractor pad closer to the firing pin channel. You will move a small amount of metal, carefully filing a little at a time, from the locator pad. Check for tension again. Reassemble and check as you work. If the extractor moves when cycling or firing it should be discarded.

Firing Pin Stop For this step I often use an oversized firing pin stop. The firing pin stop has been observed to drop during firing and allow the firing pin to exit the slide in several incidences over the past forty years of my experience. This seems far less common than in the past but a properly fitted firing pin stop is important. It also keeps the extractor in the proper position.

The firing pin stop should not be sloppy but require slight tension So is proper fit of the extractor and a good sharp barrel hook. 45 ACP, right, like all semi automatic cartridges, features an extractor groove in the cartridge case rim. Its function is often misunderstood. to seat. If there is excessive binding, material must be removed from the right hand side of the firing pin stop, the side that maintains tension against the extractor.

The extractor will not properly clock without good tension against the firing pin stop. Dissenting Opinions Some feel that the feed sequence of the 1911 is dependent upon the extractor. The cartridge is caught by the loading block and fed into the

Look also at the case rims. All are not the same and the rims in some cases have dents or nicks. This is hard on an extractor. extractor by the magazine follower. The extractor picks up the cartridge case, the slide moves forward and the bullet nose strikes the feed ramp with its 1/32nd inch gap between the two pieces of the feed ramp. The bullet nose continues into the chamber. This sounds like the proper sequence but there is a check to perform that may change your mind.

If the pistol has feed problems, remove the cartridge extractor and attempt to chamber around from the magazine. The round will normally feed just fine. When the extractor is in place it extracts the spent case from the firearm. While an advantage of the 1911 is controlled feed, the extractor just extracts and shouldn’t control headspace. The extractor maintains tension against the cartridge case by holding it against the side of the slide or breechface.

When you experience a feed problem it is often caused by sharp edges or a burr on the bottom of the extractor. Take a look under magnification at the area in which the cartridge case rim first enters the extractor groove. At this point the presence of a burr or sharp point will impede the travel of the cartridge case. A small needle file or jeweler’s file will solve this problem. 22 caliber conversion units. Now, they area fixture on quality 1911 pistols. It is proving to be quite reliable.

Work the file into the groove from under the extractor and continue. This will considerably improve the movement of the cartridge case rim into the extractor groove. The extractor isn’t a complicated part but the 1911 is a machine of irreducible complexity. When one part goes out the whole machine comes to a grinding halt. Be certain you understand every part and understand them well. AG