Working S&W .22 Pistols

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Twenty years passed from the end of production of Smith & Wesson’s budget Model 46 .22 "field" pistol in late 1966 or early 1967 until the company introduced a competitive, low-cost replacement. The Model 46, introduced in 1957, was a "nothing fancy" version of its venerable Model 41 .22 target pistol. The Model 46 was not particularly successful, judging by only 8000-some examples made over a 10-year period in three barrel lengths.

Consumers either went for the much prettier, high-polished Model 41 at one end of the spectrum, or the inexpensive Ruger Standard Model pistol at the other.

In between were High Standards, Brownings, and Colt Woodsmans. 1987 saw Smith & Wesson introduce the low-priced Model 422/622 pistols in both 4" and 6" barrel lengths to compete directly in Compare the Model 61 to the 1908 Bayard—the ejection port and extractors appear strikingly similar. the marketplace with other valuepriced blowback .22 semiautomatic handguns. These "budget" models also included the Model 2206, 2213, and 2214.

Early 422/622 production was performed in Springfield, and later pistols were made at the then-new Houlton, ME plant that featured circa 1990 state of art PLCcontrolled production machinery which increased production rates and cut costs. Unfortunately for Smith & Wesson, the 422-series pistols were a case of "too little, too late" because the Ruger Mk II pistol was firmly established as the market leader, and significant demand for the 422 and its siblings never really materialized.

Sales of the 422 family tapered off in the middle 1990s such that S&W management decided to end production in 1997 after only a 10-year run and use the production capacity at Houlton for the even less expensive S&W Model 22 LR pistols include (T-B) an all-stainless 6" Model 2206, a blued/anodized 4" Model 422, and the aluminum alloy and stainless 2213 pocket pistol. 22A and other new pistols it was planning to produce there.

The 422 had a blued steel slide and dark anodized aluminum alloy frame, and the 622 featured a stainless steel slide and a silver anodized alloy frame. Both models were offered with fixed or adjustable rear sights.

Two to three years later, the 422/622 line expanded to include a rare ventilated rib model designated 622VR, an all-stainless version known as the 2206, two shortbarreled/short gripped versions marked as the 2213 (stainless slide, silver anodized alloy frame), and the 2214 (blued carbon steel slide and black anodized alloy frame). In a sense, the 2213/2214 "pocket" models actually took the 422-series family full circle back to their progenitor, the S&W Model 61 Escort.

The little Model 61 was a .22 LR pocket pistol offered by S&W from 1970 to 1973 following approxi-

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With the slide fully toward the rear, the recoil spring guide must be pulled out to the frame, then tilted upward as much as possible in order to clear the frame during disassembly and assembly. mately five years of development using the 1908 Pieper Bayard pistol as inspiration. S&W designers and engineers borrowed heavily from the sixty-year-old Belgian pocket pistol, using such features as a rigidly-mounted fixed barrel and a recoil spring and guide rod located over the centerline axis of the bore.

The ejection port was thus low and towards the rear of the right side of the slide, and the low axis of the barrel significantly reduced recoil. The 1908 Pieper Bayard held a five round magazine, and the handle section of the frame was particularly abbreviated, making it a "trig- Control the spring to prevent a "launch" into the far reaches.

Below center: The E-clip retains the slide stop shaft; pry off with a jeweler’s screwdriver taking care to control the clip and not scratch the frame even though is it covered by the grip. ger finger plus two" sort of grip that was not a favorite of shooters. The front sight of the Bayard doubled as a disassembly "key"—push back on the recoil spring rod and lift up the front sight to remove it and the recoil spring rod and spring to further disassemble the pistol.

The above description mostly fits the S&W Model 61 Escort to a T. The Escort itself is a subject for another article, but its essential design was dusted off in the late 1980s as the basis for the value priced S&W 422/622 family of .22 LR handguns.

The 422/622 family was built on lightweight aluminum alloy frames and made use of a number of inexpensive overlapping and interleaved stamped steel levers and coil springs in the fire and safety controls, reminiscent of smaller versions of similar features in the older SIG P-series pistols. The near-vertical grip angle resembles that of the 1911 pistol, and an all-stainless 4" Model 2206 makes a fair approximation of a .22 LR 1911 target pistol.

Another design feature of the 422 family is that the lower end of the mainspring guide serves as a cocking indicator protruding protrudes from the bottom rear of the butt when the hammer is cocked. A very thoughtful and useful feature indeed. S&W engineers thoughtfully made use of the proven S&W Model 41/46 magazine in the new Model 422/622 family of pistols, except that the magazine catch slot was widened across the front of the magazine tube for the 422 family.

Note that original S&W Model 41 magazines have a narrow magazine catch slot towards the right side of the magazine tube, and these will not retain in any of the 422 family pistols. However, magazines are backwards compatible in any Model 41 or 46 chambered for 22LR. With the exception of the early Model 41 magazines, commonality of later-production magazines with a wide retaining slot was a feature of interest to Model 41 and owners alike. The came with 12round versions thoughtfully fitted

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The slide stop, spring plate, disconnector, and safety lever can now be removed. Above center: The slide stop has been removed, showing the spring plate free to be withdrawn and allowing access to the disconnector and safety lever.

Combusted .22 LR external lubricant and powder is much in evidence; one of the failure modes of the 422 family is excessive schmutz buildup. by S&W with orange polymer followers to differentiate them from 10-round Model 41/46 magazines, but with the advent of magazine capacity bans first in California and then nationwide in 1994, away went the 12-round magazine in favor of a 10-round unit with a black plastic follower.

The 422-series pistols feature a low-mounted fixed barrel held fast to the frame at the front by a The spring is fairly stiff; exert care to control the spring during removal and installation to prevent loss. Below center: The screwdriver tip points to the combination trigger reset/magazine catch spring just unseated from the top of the black polymer magazine catch in the background.

This photo again illustrates how filthy these pistols can get, requiring detailed and time-consuming cleaning. barrel nut, which have made the pistol family extremely popular with suppressor enthusiasts. Aftermarket barrel nut/adapters with forward-projecting suppressor mounting threads are readily available, and the low barrel axis centerline allows any of the 422-series pistols to be fitted with a small-diameter suppressor and still use the factory pistol sights.

The low bore axis significantly reduces muzzle climb, benefiting accuracy. Models feature the recoil spring and guide rod of the Pieper Bayard and the Model 61 Escort, located overbore. Instead of the front sight keeping it all together as with the Bayard, a U-shaped block in the top of the slide is the "key" to disassembly of the S&W pistols. Models pistols shipped with an orange plastic Tshaped chamber flag with doubles as the takedown tool.

Fortunately, if the takedown tool/chamber flag should became lost, a simple fired .22 LR case also serves as a completely functional tool. Disassembly To disassemble a 422 family pistol, first remove the magazine and pull the slide (50) to the rear to insure that around is not chambered in the weapon.

Holding the slide to the rear about an inch open, insert the takedown tool (or the head of a fired .22 LR cartridge case) against the exposed front end of the recoil spring guide rod (30) visible in the front of the slide. Slowly close the slide allowing the front of the take-

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The pin is very small (~0.064") in diameter, requiring the special tool shown. It is removed by lifting the tab at the bottom end from a recess in the frame and swinging the spring forward and out of position. down tool (or .22 LR case mouth) to come to rest against the "wall" of the frame, thus holding the slide open about 5/8 of an inch. The recoil guide plug (29) can be lifted straight out the top of the slide.

Pay attention to its orientation as you remove the recoil guide plug; it is directional and can be reinstalled only one way. Pull the slide to the rear and withdraw the recoil spring guide rod and spring from the front of the slide, angling it upward to Release the hammer, push the hammer axis pin toward the right side of the frame, and withdraw the hammer/mainspring assembly. If the hammer engages the sear, pull back on the hammer and trip the sear with a screwdriver or punch.

Below center: After the hammer and mainspring assembly are removed, lift out the sear and its axis pin. Note its orientation for future reassembly—flat side forward, arched side to the rear, prongs facing up. clear the frame. Lift the slide from the frame. Remove both grip panels (55, 56). At this stage I recommend taking pictures for reference as to how the many stamped links and levers are located and where the three springs are placed.

Such reference photos are handy when the inevitable phone call or doorbell interruptions occur. Next, remove the slide stop spring (52) from the slide stop lever/ejector (51) on the left side of the frame. Pry off the E-clip (32) from the slide stop pivot shaft, located on the right side of the frame at the lower right corner of the ejection port, taking care not to lose the E-clip or scratch the finish around it.

Remove the spring plate (15) by pushing its J-shaped retainer out of the frame using a small slotted screwdriver or a punch, accessing from the ejection port on the right side of the frame. With the spring plate detent out of the frame recess, lift the spring plate up, and slide it rearward so that the plate clears the hammer pivot pin (12) at its lower right. Lift off the disconnector (3). Lift off the safety lever (28).

Insert the magazine into the frame to disable the magazine safety (21), restrain the hammer (11), pull the trigger (58), and slowly release the hammer into the fired position. Remove the magazine. Using a punch, push the sear pin (46) about a 1/8th of an inch toward the right so it is no longer engaged in the left sideplate (48). Do not push the sear pin completely out of the frame.

Remove the three screws that hold the left sideplate to the frame, then push the hammer pivot pin just through the sideplate, and lift the sideplate from the frame. It may help to tap the right sideplate with a hammer handle from underneath to assist the left sideplate in releasing from the frame. Try to lift the sideplate equally, rocking it back and forth if necessary. Restrain the trigger so that it does not come off with the sideplate.

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The extractor pin is held in place by the extractor body resting in the small-diameter section of the pin. The extractor must be pushed in towards the slide just right to allow the pin to be slid toward the bottom of the slide where it can be gripped with pliers and removed. There is no spring behind the extractor pin. Above center: The 422 series extraction system bits are shown below the slide in approximate relative position, extractor spring, extractor, and dumbbell-shaped extractor pin.

Factory firing pins are relatively brittle and are known to break at the tip and sometimes at the retaining groove. Remove trigger spring (62), trigger (58), and trigger bar (59) as an assembly. Push out the magazine catch pin (18) to the right with a small diameter punch, finishing nail, or paper clip, and remove the magazine catch (17).

Push out the sear pin (46) to the right and remove the sear (45), noting the The 422-series magazine is backwards compatible with the S&W Model 41 and 46 pistols, but an early Model 41 magazine will not latch in a 422-series pistol.

Below center: Begin magazine disassembly by depressing the floorplate keeper plunger at the bottom front of the floorplate, pushing the plunger out of engagement with the floorplate and off to one side to allow the floorplate to slide forward. orientation of the sear for correct reassembly. Move the hammer slightly rearwards until a paper clip or other wire can be inserted into a small hole at the bottom of the mainspring guide/ hammer strut (27).

This compresses the spring on the mainspring guide allowing the hammer assembly to be removed. Once the hammer spring is compressed, the hammer can be allowed to rotate forward and the hammer/mainspring guide assembly and the sear spring (47) can be removed from the frame. Once the hammer is out, remove the magazine safety spring (22), then the magazine safety lever (21).

The barrel (1) can be removed if necessary by first unscrewing the barrel nut (2) using either an aftermarket wrench from EWK Arms (EWKarms.com; $24.00) or a shopmade wrench consisting of apiece of hardened sheet metal that fits the grooves in the barrel nut and to which torque may be applied. Slide disassembly entails removal of the extractor and the firing pin.

Remove the sheet metal extractor (4) by pressing it toward the slide against extractor spring force near the extractor pin (5) using a small punch or screwdriver. Using fine-pointed tweezers, pull down on the extractor pin while maintaining force to the extractor as above. Ordinary needle-nosed pliers are too large to fit the extractor groove in the slide. The tweezers you use need to have a fine point and be serrated or have a thin coating to facilitate grip on the extractor pin.

It may help to apply cleaning solvent to the underside of the slide and the extractor pin itself to help remove carbon deposits that may be binding the extractor pin in its recess. The extractor pin is dumbbell

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Top to bottom, body, spring with floorplate button, floorplate (L), follower (R), follower thumb button. shaped, and the extractor body fits in the reduced diameter section of the extractor pin to hold it in place. Pushing the extractor inward toward the slide takes the extractor out of the path of the extractor pin, allowing the pin to be withdrawn from the bottom of the slide.

Once the extractor pin is removed, ease up on the extractor to keep control of the very fine coil extractor spring, set the extractor aside, and using tweezers or small pliers remove the extractor spring (6) from its recess. To remove the firing pin (7) and its return spring (9), drive out the spiral roll pin (8) from right to left and withdraw the firing pin and spring to the rear of the slide, noting that the notch in the firing pin faces down.

Reassembly Reassembly is in reverse as the saying goes, but here are some useful tips. First, make sure the notch in the firing pin is aligned downward. It helps to partially install the firing pin roll pin ahead of time so that the firing pin can be pushed forward with one hand while tapping the pin further in place with a hammer held in the other.

Alternatively, an object such as a block of Styrofoam, wood, or a rolled section of corrugated container can be employed to push the firing pin forward against its return spring’s force to allow the retaining pin to be seated. Second, if you’ve disassembled the hammer spring from the hammer spring guide, first reassemble those components and partially compress the hammer spring on its guide so that a paper clip can be installed in the hole in the bottom end of the guide.

Third, install the stamped levers on the left side of the frame in this order: Safety lever, spring plate, disconnector, and slide stop lever. When installing the spring plate, align the spring plate such that its hook-shaped detent is above the surface of the left side of the frame and that the larger part of the double hole aligns and slips over the hammer pivot pin.

Push the plate’s spring finger towards the frame at the hammer pivot pin and slide the spring plate forward so that the notch in the pin is the smaller diameter end of the oblong hole in the spring plate. Finally, place the slide on the frame, reinstall the recoil spring and guide assembly in the slide, and rest the front tip of the recoil spring guide against the takedown tool (or .22 LR case).

Push the slide forward on the frame and reinstall the recoil plug once the slide and the notches in the recoil spring guide are aligned. Pull the slide slightly to the rear to allow the takedown tool to drop free. The S & W models have a welldeserved reputation for dependability and accuracy but are known for a few problems. The most infamous issue is breakage of the tip of the brittle factory firing pin. It’s not a question of if the factory firing pin will break but when.

A broken firing pin would sideline a 422-series pistol when S&W could not keep up with demand for replacements and later when S&W quit support of the platform altogether, resulting in gunsmiths needing to fabricate replacements. Fortunately, robust aftermarket firing pins are available from EWK Arms and Numrich Gun Far 22 LR combustion products shown to the left of the breechface. Dirt buildup in this area of a 422series pistol can prevent the slide from going into battery and the pistol from functioning.

In many cases a 422series pistol may be unaffected by such a damaged spring, but if sufficiently deformed the slide will not strip cartridges from the magazine or feed them properly. Wolff lists recoil springs under "422/2206" in their website.

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An ultrasonic parts cleaner with a neutral p H (6.5-7.5) water-based detergent followed by a hot rinse, or a solvent type cleaner is also useful in cleaning 422-series pistol components. Parts, although they may not always be in stock due to demand. Almost as severe a problem is dirt buildup causing faulty function, but this is by no means exclusive to these S&W handguns.

A 422-series pistol with a high round count that’s been "rode hard and put up dirty" without cleaning accumulates a prodigious quantity of .22 LR cartridge schmutz that can cause all kinds of failures. Such dirt can prevent springs in the fire control group from actuating their respective levers, the firing pin can get sticky in its bore, and the force required to blow back the slide can become too great for a given cartridge to properly cycle the pistol or for the recoil spring to return the slide into battery.

Also note, factory recoil spring force is sometimes too great for target-grade and the weapon won’t cycle. Problems in the 422/622 finish department include the silver anodizing applied to the frame of S&W Model 622 pistols may turn a slight gold color with age, in which case it no longer aesthetically matches the silvery hue of the bead-blasted stainless steel slide. Unfortunately, this is often a function of silvercolored aluminum anodizing as it ages.

The stainless steel slides of the Models 622, 622VR, and 2213, and the stainless steel of the entire Model 2206 pistol can be prone to rust if the owner is not careful to keep free iron away from the stainless. The stainless steel used in firearms is martensitic, and free iron can promote pit corrosion under the right environmental circumstances.

For example, if an owner uses steel wool to clean surfaces of stainless steel firearm components (never do this!) he will be facing a corrosion situation at some point from fine, microscopic particles of free iron on the surface or embedded in the surface of the stainless steel. The only effective way to remove free iron from stainless steel is to acid passivate the stainless with a blend of nitric and sulfuric acids or a strong citric acid specifically compounded for passivation.

Passivation requires knowledge, proper protective equipment, and safety practices and is the subject of a completely different article. The use of oxygen-blocking rust inhibiting gun care products can in forestalling corrosion in stainless and carbon steel firearm components.

Two products I have had positive experience with are Corrosion Technologies Corrosion X (CorrosionX.com, and EEZOX (EEZOX.com Another potential source of problems in a S&W 422-series pistol (and common to many pistols) is magazine condition and cleanliness. As previously mentioned, the 422 family uses the basic S&W Model 41 magazine design which is generally robust, but performance of these magazines can suffer from weak or damaged springs, contamination, or bent feed lips.

The latter is a bit uncommon as the Model 41/422/622 magazine is fabricated of fairly thick heat treated sheet metal, but a four-foot drop to concrete can still have a damaging effect. Being a fan of the Model 41 as well as the 422, 622, 2206, 2213, and 2214 models, I have purchased a large number of used Model 41 and 422 magazines at gun shows and from firearm dealers; I rarely pass one up if reasonably priced. Experience has taught that any used magazine should be disassembled and cleaned upon acquisition.

The spring is replaced if found to be bent or have taken a set, demonstrated by being substantially shorter than that of a brand new, unused Model 41 magazine that I keep as a standard for comparison of others. To disassemble a 422/622 magazine, first remove all cartridges. Using a small screwdriver or punch, depress the floorplate keeper plunger at the bottom front of the floorplate, pushing the button out of engagement with the floorplate and off to one side to allow the floorplate to be slid forward.

An alternative method is to use a dental pick or similar hooked tool through one of the slots that run the length of both sides of the magazine body to pull the magazine spring coils and floorplate plunger towards the follower and away from the baseplate. The spring can be held in this position for the next step, or a makeshift stopper can be inserted into the magazine body to keep the spring plunger from reengaging its recess in the butt plate.

While restraining the magazine spring and plunger above the baseplate, slide the baseplate forward off the maga-

1 Barrel 3" 1 Barrel 4 1/2" 1 Barrel 6 2 Barrel Nut 3 Disconnector 4 Extractor 5 Extractor Pin 6 Extractor Spring 7 Firing Pin 8 Firing Pin Retain Pin 9 Firing Pin Spring 10 Frame 3" 10 Frame 4 1/2" 10 Frame 6" 11 Hammer 12 Hammer Pin 13 Hammer Stirrup Pin 14 Lockwasher 15 M/S Springplate ** Magazine Assembly (8) ** Magazine Ass’ly (10) 16 Magazine Butt Plate 17 Magazine Catch 18 Magazine Catch Pin 19 Magazine Follower 20 Magazine Pin 21 Magazine Safety Lever 22 Magazine Safety Spring 23 Magazine Spring 24 Magazine Spring Plngr 25 Magazine Tube (8 Shot) 25 Magazine Tube [10] 26 Mainspring 27 Mainspring Guide 28 Manual Safety 29 Recoil Guide Plug 30 Recoil Guide Rod 31 Recoil Spring 32 Retaining Ring 33 RS Body 34 RS EL Cl.

Target 35 RS EL Screw Target 36 RS Leaf Screw Target 37 RS Leaf Target 38 RS Plunger Spring 39 RS Plunger Target 41 RS Retaining Spring 42 RS Slide Target 43 RS Windage Nut Target 44 RS Windage Screw 45 Sear S&W .22 Pistols (Speci ications subject to change without notice) 46 Sear Pin 47 Sear Spring 43 Sideplate 49 Sideplate Screw 50 Slide 51 Slide Stop/Ejector 52 Slide Stop Spring 53 Slide Stud 54 Slide Target 55 Stock LH 56 Stock RH 57 Stock Screw ** Stock Ass’ly, LH Target ** Stock Ass’ly, RH Target 58 Trigger 59 Trigger Bar 60 Trigger Bar Pin 61 Trigger Pin 62 Trigger Spring 65 Front Sight-Pinned 65 Front Sight-Dovetail 66 Front Sight Pin 67 Trigger Stop Screw zine body.

Sticky baseplates can be assisted off with a brass punch and urethane hammer, or jaw-protected pliers. Release the restraining force on the spring and remove the spring and plunger from the magazine body. To remove the magazine follower, slide the follower down until the follower thumbpiece pin aligns with the round hole at the bottom of the slot. Push out the thumbpiece pin and withdraw the follower.

The majority of Model 422 family pistols that have found their way to my bench required either a thorough cleaning or a replacement firing pin. Magazines are another typical issue. For example, I had customers bring in a 422 and a 2206 with the complaint that the magazine would not latch. Upon questioning it was determined that in both cases the problematic used magazine was an early Model 41 example recently acquired.

Being a huge fan of the Model 41, I offered to simply trade "even up" for a 422compatible magazine from my stash for the early Model 41 magazine and the owners went away happy. In another case, a 4" 422 arrived in a gallon-sized Ziploc bag. I observed to the owner that "some assembly required" would be needed which he acknowledged with a grunt. As it happened, a few missing parts were needed too, and Numrich and Jack First took care of that.

Firearms dealer friends and acquaintances of mine here in Pennsylvania generally wince when they are approached by a customer who wants to trade or sell a S&W 422-family pistol. One close dealer friend has a saying, "They are the best, inexpensive S&W .22 pistols that no one wants to buy." In my experience, once purchased and fired, owners tend to keep a member of the S&W 422 pistol family because they are at once very accurate and dependable. They can be quiet, too, as fans of suppressed guns will tell you. AG