Reader Forum

Springfield Model 511 I have a Springfield Model 511 side-by-side shotgun with 3" 12 gauge chambers built by Savage. I would like to field strip it for a thorough cleaning but it’s unlike any other side-by-side in my experience. Upon removing the forend and operating the top lever, most shotguns of this type will simply separate at the pivot point between the barrels and receiver. This gun instead has its mainspring located at this pivot point and it must be removed to be separated.

Other then purchasing a mainspring tool from Brownells, is there any other way to break down this shotgun? From Sergey Lyalko. Your 511 is similar to the Stevens 311 with only one major distinction: The ejector rod shown at 28-31. To disassemble, move the plunger (29) to the side of part 28. No special tool These are factory Glock parts. six pounds. The distinct advantage is the break is more similar to revolvers and a trigger break that some find attractive.

Glocks are primarily personal defense and service weapons. If they are carried in the manis needed and a screwdriver works well. What you are referring to as a "mainspring" is in fact an ejector spring. Winchester 490 Soft Fire Referencing "Winchester Model 490 Disassembly and Assembly Procedures" by David W. Manney in the July 2012 issue, I used that article as a guide to disassembly but ran into a problem with the bolt. I could not pull the striker rod out of the bolt after removing the rod pin.

I even tried a bit of heat with a hot air gun. Joseph Murano The striker looks different but moves freely. I replaced both inner and outer striker springs and the 490 fires every time with all cartridge types when the gun is ner they were designed, anyone that has worked with it should be able to verify the pistol is in a safe operating condition. AG pointing down. However, when the gun is pointing slightly up (say 10 degrees above horizontal) it frequently misfires.

Does this indicate that either the inner or outer striker spring is too weak? Why are there two springs in this design? Barry Severne Author Dave Manney replies. The striker rod head may be mushroomed making it hard to remove. With the firing pin out of the way, I would use a flat brass stock that fits into the firing pin slot and tap it out. Dress up the end with a file

and sand smooth, checking fit back into the bolt. The bolt is hardened steel and should not be damaged. I would check the hole after removing the rod and if needed ream round again with a drill bit the same diameter as the striker. It may be time for anew striker rod. I just check Numrich and they have Striker, Striker Retainer, and Striker Rod parts in stock. As stated in the article, the firing pin sticks in the bolt. With gravity helping to drop the firing pin you must be getting enough energy to crush the rim.

Lifting the gun up, there is no longer an assist from gravity. I am assuming ammo was the same. I would first polish the firing fin as I stated the article. The reason for two springs was to ensure enough force was transferred to the firing pin to fire the round. If the springs are rusty, clean them up to make sure that they slide easily back and forth and do not drag, taking away needed energy.

Stock Crack Regarding the October 2019 Reader Forum on handling a Stock Crack, I understand the answers given are from gunsmiths more qualified than I but I think they missed the point. If I have this problem, I take the buttstock off the shotgun, brush inletting black on the metal, reassemble and then take it apart again to see where the part is that is making extra contact judging by the black spots on the wood. File that spot down and try again until all metal is touching the wood evenly.

From author Sergey Lyalko. I did miss the point in my previous answer. Repeating breakage on the right top of the inlet means that this spot receives more stress/pressure during recoil than the other spots of inlet. Normally, it may be explained by a high point on the wood where pressure concentrates. In the case of the original question, since three consecutive stocks broke at the same place the high point may be on the metal and wood would have to be relieved (removed) at this spot.

The piece of the wood that split has some marks of pressure on it, which may give the idea of where the force was applied. The other concern may be a low quality, dry wood which is prone to cracks. In any case, the effort should be made to ensure that the metal has a strong and even support all around the inlet. The best way to create this support and eliminate high points is with glass bedding. I use Brownells Acraglas Gel (081-014-007WB). Degrease the metal part of the inlet and cover with release agent.

Use a Dremel or similar tool to the thin the portion of the wood all around the inlet where it contacts metal There is no need to remove the external (visible) outside stock wood around the inlet; the fix should be invisible outside. Mix Acraglas and put an excessive layer on all places where wood was removed. Install the action and tighten all screws and bolts that hold the stock and action. Coat screws with release prior to assembly.

Remove the excess Acraglas that popped up during tightening, then let it solidify. Carefully remove the action from the stock. This creates a stock inlet with a hard layer an exact mirror reflection of the metal with no high points and guarantees even distribution of the stress around the wood. Gary Kruger AR-15 Barrel Nut What if they made a extended fluted barrel nut that could brace up against the cut in the barrel? That way the entire chamber and throat of the barrel is supported?

Robert Bogan Author Joe Carlos responds. I am having difficulty visualizing what you are suggesting. You speak about a "cut in the barrel" but I am unaware of any cuts in an AR barrel. The only ways that I know to combat carrier tilt are to build support the back end of the carrier like antitilt pads I describe in "Combating AR-15 Bolt Carrier Tilt" (May 2017) You may contact me directly at AG